After finally fixing the refrigerant leaks in my A/C system, I was running it and after a couple days the compressor seized up.
I have a buddy with all of the equipment to flush the system out, but I need opinions on what to replace. If I flush the system will I have to replace the condenser and the accumulator or any or the hose? The accumulator is brand new and I replaced it two days before the compressor failed.

After finally fixing the refrigerant leaks in my A/C system, I was running it and after a couple days the compressor seized up.
I have a buddy with all of the equipment to flush the system out, but I need opinions on what to replace. If I flush the system will I have to replace the condenser and the accumulator or any or the hose? The accumulator is brand new and I replaced it two days before the compressor failed.

Your truck still uses the old round style compressors which are notorious for seizing up and dumping crap in the rest of your lines.

Crack all the lines open, take them all out and blow through them all w/air and flushing agent if you can.

If at all possible replace the condenser as well since it sits so far up front by the rad and all it takes is a little rock to chip it and crack it.

New O-rings for all joints. Make sure they're tighter than a frog's ass when you do them back up. You can just use normal NBR O-Rings available at most MRO suppliers, no need to go dealer. I find that it also helps if you wrap teflon tape on the threaded joints. Try not to get any T-tape IN the pipes. All systems leak through time, I find that w/T-tape it'll leak slower so to say. If you ask mechanic of course they'll say you're not suppose to use T-tape. For their interest lies in making sure you go back every year to refil w/refrigeriant.

Replace your accumulator/receiver drier whenever you open up the system; it acts as a filter and descant drier to absorbe any moisture that might have been introduced in the system.

Becareful when you're undoing the accumulator because if you shear the threads on where it comes out of the fire wall you'll have to replace the evaporator as well, it itself is not expensive but is the time involved in ripping your dash and all that apar to get to it that causes problems.

Replace your Orifice tube (O-tube). It acts as a filter from the outlet of the compressor to the inlet of the condensor. Its under the passenger side battery. Open up that hard line and you'll see the end of it, needle nose will pull it out. DO NOT FLUSH THE SYSTEM W/THE O-TUBE STILL IN IT. Not only will you not flush anything out you'll also clog up your O-tube instantly causing the seals of the compressor to blow the second you hit that AC switch.

Cleanliness is godliness w/AC work. The cleaner it is the longer the system will last. Also don't use that freon in a can crap that they have out these days. They don't work. The proper way to charge a system takes ambient temperature, engine RPM, and the amount of refrigent into account.

Put in some oil when you have it opened up. If your friend has a vaccume pump have him put the system under vac and then drive around for a couple of days. Go back and vac it out again. The more times you vac it out the less likely it is for crap to be left behind inside the system. The more crap there is inside the faster your refrigeriant goes bad and the faster you need a recharge.

Excellent advice. I can't afford to replace the condenser, I hope that if I flush it really well, it will be okay, it's not leaking either. I guess I have an accumulator, reman compressor, orifice tube, and orings on the way.

my a/c compressor has a broken top of the casting - the bolt holding the hose to it ripped the top off. it has been open a long time by the looks of the metal
i have the new compressor, accumulator, orifice and top hose all new.
this weekend - remove condensor and clean exterior ( really well)
i spoke to the local chevy dealer - i will install the new parts and follow your advice. then take to them to purge and fill system.
i will be replacing the heater core this weekend. i wonder if i should have also got a new evaporator at the same time.
is that something that could leak. if so, does it have any chance of health worries? - i.e.; leaking into the cab.
i figured if i did replace evaporator, i might as well replace condensor then the other lines, ect. i just have too much into it so far, i just want to get it running.
jon

my a/c compressor has a broken top of the casting - the bolt holding the hose to it ripped the top off. it has been open a long time by the looks of the metal
i have the new compressor, accumulator, orifice and top hose all new.
this weekend - remove condensor and clean exterior ( really well)
i spoke to the local chevy dealer - i will install the new parts and follow your advice. then take to them to purge and fill system.
i will be replacing the heater core this weekend. i wonder if i should have also got a new evaporator at the same time.
is that something that could leak. if so, does it have any chance of health worries? - i.e.; leaking into the cab.
i figured if i did replace evaporator, i might as well replace condensor then the other lines, ect. i just have too much into it so far, i just want to get it running.
jon

If you're doing the heater core I would get a new evaporator only if the heater core's like right next the the evap. Logic is if you're going to rip the dash apart for the core then put it all back together. Then come time when you charge your system you find that your evap is leaking you'll be stuck w/the delima or either rip the dash apart again to replace the evap OR leave it and say **** the AC. In either case you'll be kicking yourself in the nuts and saying "I should've did it when I was in there" or "I'm too far into it now to leave the evap alone".

Contrary to what jobbers say evaporators don't usually leak because they're not exposed to engine heat, rocks shooting at them and super duper vibrations that a condensor would see. If you want to see if it's leaking just rig up either an air set up and listen for hissing. Don't charge it to like 1000 pounds. Leak testing all you need is a good 15 pounds or so and you'll know if its leaking or not. You can do the same for the condenser as well.

Needless to say I am sure you'll unhook your receiver drier as well as your lines before you charge up the evap or condensor.

Interesting. I have a 95 2500 with a new accumulator that worked for two days and now nothing. There is power going everywhere, I'm just not getting the compressor kicked on. I'm going to check the things in this thread and see if it helps as well.

Interesting. I have a 95 2500 with a new accumulator that worked for two days and now nothing. There is power going everywhere, I'm just not getting the compressor kicked on. I'm going to check the things in this thread and see if it helps as well.

If you charged it and worked for a bit now stopped then there's probably a leak in your system. All AC systems are designed with a pressure switch so that when it is low in refrigirant (low pressure) the AC comp will not turn on. The refrigirant not only cools you but it also carries oil that the compressor needs as a lubricant.

Try charging it again and also replace the low pressure switch. Switch is mounted on the accumulator. You don't need to evac it to replace the switch.