I just turned my IP up about a 1/4 turn and now my idle is at 1100rpm. I tried turning the screw to the left of the throttle and cruise cables that has that brass plunger on it CCW, but the idle would not come down. Any help will be greatly appreciated!:o:

make sure the throttle cables are not in a bind, it will pull on them a little and make it rev.

I'll try it and get back to you. Thanks.

QM, checked all the cables and their positioning and all was well. I talked to Todd at Heath Diesel and he seems to think that I overtightened the guide stud. Does this sound feesible before I go get covered in diesel fuel again? Thanks.And wow, what a difference it makes in power! It is amazingly faster in everything from acceleration to top speed. Brings that old smile back:D !

Did you go through the top cover or the inspection plate on the side?

If you removed the top cover/guide stud, then did you try to set the guide stud and lock nut back to their original positions? Did you check the Governor thrust spring that holds the Governor spring assembly inplace?? It has to hook on a slot made for it on the inside of the housing.

Did you go through the top cover or the inspection plate on the side?

If you removed the top cover/guide stud, then did you try to set the guide stud and lock nut back to their original positions? Did you check the Governor thrust spring that holds the Governor spring assembly inplace?? It has to hook on a slot made for it on the inside of the housing.
Removed the top cover. I cracked that plastic covering off the guide stud and removed it. I am almost positive I threaded it in farther than it was before I adjusted the pump. Everything was replaced exactly the same except for the depth of the guide stud. I think I will try backing it out first and see what that does to my idle.

Quick quesiton; will this adversely affect my mpg assuming I can drive it the same:rolleyes: . Mostly concerned about the highway mpg. Thanks.

Dan

That depends on a lot of things, mostly how far you turned up the fuel, and your driving habits. Putting the guide stud in a little farther will raise your High Idle some, no big deal, putting it in a LOT deeper can affect your L.I. speed, but not by 400 RPM.
Have you checked to see if your Fast Idle Solenoid is interfering with the throttle lever?

That depends on a lot of things, mostly how far you turned up the fuel, and your driving habits. Putting the guide stud in a little farther will raise your High Idle some, no big deal, putting it in a LOT deeper can affect your L.I. speed, but not by 400 RPM.
Have you checked to see if your Fast Idle Solenoid is interfering with the throttle lever?
Fast idle plunger isn't even touching the lever. I will try backing the guide stud out a full turn or so tomorrow night and let you know what happens. Thanks TDG

Installed the guide stud on top of the metering valve spring clip.

Installed the guide stud on top of the metering valve spring clip.
I never actually pulled the stud all the way out, so the metering valve spring (single wire spring on top of stud?) never lost position with regards to stud. If it wasn't so Censored cold outside, I'd go do it now. If backing out the stud doesn't work, I'll have to pull the top off again and check out the metering valve spring.

If anybody has any pictures for this pump with those little "this is it you idiot" arrows telling exactly what is what. For all these springs, pins...I am just assuming what is what:o: . Thanks

So I finally got time to do some work. I backed the guide stud way out and still at 1000rpms. What now? I'm lost....

Take the throttle cables off and see how it effects the linkage. It should be resting against the LI set screw unless the FICA solenoid is engaged or you're stepping on the pedal.

Floor mat is holding the rpms up.

That can get you killed if it happens at a red light and at full throttle. Scared the crap out of me more than once when it happend in the '93. Gotta watch those floor mats.
never happens in the '94.

Please don't get off the computers yet. I will go check and get right back. I really want to get this taken care of. Thanks.


Dan

Not floor mat or cables. What next? Could my fast idle selenoid right next to all the throttle connections be bad? It looks like a POS and the contact is pretty loose.

Can you take a picture inside the pump with the top cover removed?
I think its your Governor Thrust Spring, metering valve spring would likely cause underrun and stalling.

Well, I had some sort or catastrophe. Tell me what you think. I had been starting the engine each time after backing the guide stud aout to check rpms. I did it 3x. On the 4th, my engine ran away. I quickly checked the throttle cables, they were normal so I opened the vent on the fuel filter and took side cutters and crimped off the fuel. The engine finally shut down. I took the top off the IP pump to see if it died from failure or from air and lack of fuel. The fuel bowl was almost empty. What do you think happened? I am scared to start my truck now too. It had been working just fine for a few days and 3 start-stop cycles. I am absolutely sick. Please help!

Can you take some pics of the inside for us to see??? you could also have an interferense issue with the shut off solenoid if you misinstalled the top cover, but we need to SEE what your working on to help you.

Can you take some pics of the inside for us to see??? you could also have an interferense issue with the shut off solenoid if you misinstalled the top cover, but we need to SEE what your working on to help you.
Yes, I'll go do that. But it had been working fine for 2 or 3 days! I'll be back with pics in a minute.

Got your message, once I see the pics we'll have a better idea what the problem is I'll call you and walk you through it if I can't explain it on here.

You should see something like this inside...
Also included are pics of how to install the top cover...I don't do it this way but its a good idea I guess if you don't have a feel for doing it.
I don't know if you can see it in the first pic, but the Metering valve has a spring to hold it up against the guide stud, and the throttle lever spring lays in a groove on the throttle block and hooks into a cut away for it on the inside of the pump.

Give me a second. It's saying they are too large.

The pics you posted are axactly what mine looks like! I definitely put the spring back in the throttle block. Still getting my pics.

Here is the bowl just after shut down.

Here it is empty

So, did I do something wrong? Is my engine gone?

Looks alright, the only thing you adjusted was backing out the guide stud and it ran away? How fast are we talking about? 1200, 3000?
Does your Metering valve move back and forth freely? Try flexing the spring on the MV arm a little (pull it up) so it doesnt cause any binding against the guide stud.
Turn your guide stud back in til its about 1/8" from the top of the lock nut.
Then take a half inch open ended wrench and give the governor rod assembly just a 1/4 turn or so to the driver's side, replace the top cover, being careful to get the shutoff solenoid on the front side of the governor arm and try it.

Looks alright, the only thing you adjusted was backing out the guide stud and it ran away? How fast are we talking about? 1200, 3000?
Does your Metering valve move back and forth freely? Try flexing the spring on the MV arm a little (pull it up) so it doesnt cause any binding against the guide stud.
Turn your guide stud back in til its about 1/8" from the top of the lock nut.
Then take a half inch open ended wrench and give the governor rod assembly just a 1/4 turn or so to the driver's side, replace the top cover, being careful to get the shutoff solenoid on the front side of the governor arm and try it.
Which is the governor rod assembly. Is it the six sided nut on the guide stud? All other springs move without binding.

Completely ran away. PEGGED!

Oh, one thing, my fuel line is still crimped. Should I just re-fill the bowl and start it with it still crimped JIC, or uncrimp it. (Steel hose)

check your Metering valve very closely, it must be hanging open (thats the position its in right now) to cause overspeed.
it won't start with it crimped I assume, so I guess you'll have to uncrimp it.

check your Metering valve very closely, it must be hanging open (thats the position its in right now) to cause overspeed.
So is this good (The position it's in right now or bad)? Overspeed sounds bad.

I'm gonna go put everything back together and see what happens.

Cross yer fangers!

still ran the fu__ away!