I have been working on the 05 d max lly for the last 2 days here and I think I have the prob narrowed down to the wires near the alt bracket. The truck will run fine for a few blocks then start to act up and toss 2 codes p2149 and p0205 (if I can remember right). Currently the truck sounds like a John Deere mod B tractor....if I fix the 4-5 wires that are bent and not looking healthy is this going to fix my problem with the truck being a pos? I did the "ice pick" fix to the #5 injector wires...and when I moved everything around it made the problem worse not better....after work tonight the wires are going to get cut and spliced back together...I will post again if the problem gets solved...thanks all:mad:

Very common problem. Just about everyone has shielded the harness there at the alt bracket.

It's normally #2 and #7 plugs that cause the problem. Try "picking" those also.

Ok guys...I am at witts end here...been working on this truck for the past 2 nights with no victory. I have soldered the two broken little wires at the alt bracket and did not find any other wires broke or rubbed through I have also picked the plug for the #5 and it is still running like a JD "B". All in all I have actually made the problem worse by messing around with the truck. The GM dealer that I have been chatting with reassured me about the alt bracket prob but has never heard of any problems at the plug or in the wires around the plastic bracket on top of the valve covers that the wires are going into. This morning I started undoing what I did 2 nights ago to back track the problem. If it were to be the #2 and #7 wouldn't the codes p0202 and p0207 be up on my tester? Am I missing anything on this fix? Did I "pick" the plug correctly? I followed the directions that another person posted on this web site. I used one of my snap on picks and pushed it through the plug and the plug fits onto the injector much harder than it did in the beginning so I am assuming that the connection is "better". I also re picked the plug last night and then re assembled the connection to make sure i did it correctly. I have this feeling that this problem is repairable and it is a simple item...but I am running out of leads on where to look and what to fix. Do I have to worry about the FICM being fried? that would give me a different code correct?
Thanks

Pick #2 and #7 anyway.

X2---- Remember these engines are numbered different than the other Chevy engines-- #2 is the drivers side front and #7 is under the fuel filter. Go ahead and pick them anyway-- be sure to use a "Sharp" ice pick.

Ok...so I have asked a billion times at the dealership about the #5 injector being on the drivers side 3rd one back...I must be searching in the wrong spot then...I even looked up the info online to make sure about the cylinder order I must be totaly wrong! so #5 is then on the passenger side 3rd one back from the front? please inform and lead me to the info about the firing order diagram.

Drivers side front to back is 2,4,6,8 passenger side front to back is 1,3,5,7.

Pick them all....it will save you some time later on.

Thanks for all the help on the truck...now that I have the correct side to work on understood, the problem was solved in about an hour’s time. If ever a replacement injector plug was needed, the name on the plug from GM is "weather pack" and the number on the plug is (ACD#) PT2183 and the GM# 88988963. The current price on the plug was around $65....I picked it up as a back up part just in case if I damaged the plug in the “picking” process.
One bit of information to pass on would be to not let the part(s) man fool you into thinking that you need to get the $250 #2 & #7 kit...or even better replace the entire wire harness on the engine for $500+ (I had a dealership parts man tell me that). So far the best place for parts and assistance on my GM truck has been form Thorstad Chevy in Madison Wisconsin.

I believe that the GM connector kit fix is covered by the 5yr 100k warranty.

I believe that the GM connector kit fix is covered by the 5yr 100k warranty.
I have 2004.5 LLY in the shop right now with this problem. The dealer says it's a $450 deal to get the #2 harness replaced (!!). They replaced #7 last year under warranty but they say it's run out now. Does anyone have anyhard info I can use to point out the extended warranty on this problem? I asked about the extended warranty and he said it applied to the injectors only. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Do not pay for the GM kit. It is a joke. Just "Ice Pick” it and you will not have any problems". And yes it is covered under the Duramax Diesel 100k Warranty. And it does not matter if they fixed it once before. If it goes again and your under 100k they must fix it again. But like I said don't bother with the GM fix use the "ice pick” fix

Bruce

Brew,
That's exactly what I did. Stuck it in the dealers parking lot and drove it home. Hope it works long term.
Thanks!

While cruising at 71 MPH down the highway on cruise controll, the check engine light came on and started to immediatly lose power. Mine sounded like my tractor also, and didnt go over 10 mph or over 2000 rpm. Just spent $480.39 for a new and improved wiring harness. I asked the dealer why it was redesigned and he said that the other one was giving people problems with injector #2 & # 7. When I asked if this was then covered under my warranty (I assumed it was 100k, and my truck has 58k on it) he said no, diesels (mine is 2005) are covered for 36k. I asked if it was covered under a recall, he said no, the problem wasnt that common. GM engineers must just have a lot of time on their hands to go and redesign parts that aren't common to fail I guess.

$480 that was going to put new Crimson Trace grips on my new Kimber .45 and some other gunsmith work....crap!

The dealer is wrong. The wiring harness is covered under the Duramax Engine warranty witch is 100k. Yes your truck is covered for 36k but your engine is covered for 100k and the injector harness is covered under the 100k engine warranty. Also they did not replace your whole harrness all they did was cut your old connector off and spliced in a new connector. You can check and look at #2 and #7 and see if you can tell . But I am sure that is all they did.

Bruce

check you duramax suppliment in with your owners manual. there is a section in there on the 100k warranty, and I believe the harness is mentioned, if you want to get technical with the dealer. It is covered up to 100K and 5 years. Make sure your not past your 5 years. My warranty runs out in July, although I will still be under 100K.

While cruising at 71 MPH down the highway on cruise controll, the check engine light came on and started to immediatly lose power. Mine sounded like my tractor also, and didnt go over 10 mph or over 2000 rpm. Just spent $480.39 for a new and improved wiring harness. I asked the dealer why it was redesigned and he said that the other one was giving people problems with injector #2 & # 7. When I asked if this was then covered under my warranty (I assumed it was 100k, and my truck has 58k on it) he said no, diesels (mine is 2005) are covered for 36k. I asked if it was covered under a recall, he said no, the problem wasnt that common. GM engineers must just have a lot of time on their hands to go and redesign parts that aren't common to fail I guess.

$480 that was going to put new Crimson Trace grips on my new Kimber .45 and some other gunsmith work....crap!


I would be flipping shit, go back and tell them to shove it and get your money back. Unrealhow some dealers work.

mine just took the dump today. lucky i ave friends at rydell northridge a local dealership and said it is a recall gm will cover no questions ask.

stupid to hear some of you had to pay for this and since we all own 60% of gm as tax payers tellm if they want the money tell to take it from our investment for the next 10 years lol

What are you guys doing with the pick, spreading the terminals so they fit tighter? I am not a diesel mech, but I have one in the shop now with the 207 and 2146 code. There is a tsb on it to replace the connectors. I called the dealer where I buy all my parts and the service guy said it is not covered, no recall either. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

What are you guys doing with the pick, spreading the terminals so they fit tighter?

Nope...just remove the electrical connector from the injector, and pierce both of the connector with a SHARP ice pick or awl. Place the connector against something solid and drive the pick through the connector. This will create a dimple that grips the injector tabs better. A bit of di-electric grease would be a nice touch too, to keep the corrosion at bay.

Which way are you pushing it through the connector?

My truck is doing the same thing. Went to the dealership once and they supposedly fixed it. Last Friday on the way home it went out again. Same codes. P0202 and P2149
Dealer says it is not covered under warranty and there was not a recall. Is there someplace to look up the recall? What about a service bulliten?

Any techs on here that can point me in the right direct for those resources?

By the way I was about 140 miles from home when the truck went out. Ended up costing me $547 in a tow bill to get the truck back home. Fighting with the dealer to pay the tow bill now.

Hey!

Man that is an awful bill to pay for towing. I just bought AAA for me and my son. My warranty is out and my son is in college about 70 miles from home. He comes home once and a while to do laundry. So I bought AAA for $185.00 for the rv towing for both of us. 100 miles one way 6 times a year. alot cheaper than any tow I could get out here. I am not a dealer just voicing my opinion. My son was in anothers vehicle that broke down and he would be late for work so he called AAA and they towed her car to her home giving him a ride. If you ask me I think it is fantastic:D. I do not plan on buying another new vehicle because of the way the dealers are doing there jobs. So I will take it upon myself and do the work and the towing to my house myself. ***k the dealers:eek:

GM and the dealers don't know how to fix the injector harness connectors. They cut off the old connector and put on another . . . just like the original connector that fails. They add a support bracket that might help (or not).

This DIY fixes the problem with the connectors.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142114

There's also a potential rub-through where the harness is attached to the FICM/alternator bracket (up front, passenger side). Unclip the tie, tug on the harness to "loosen" it a little. Check for any wear-thru. Cut an inch or so of heater hose to cushion the harness from the FICM bracket.

Definitely getting AAA ASAP. I've already taken some tubing insualtion and wrapped it around the harness where it could up against bracket.

Isn't this covered under warranty?