Anyone running a 33x12.5 on a LMM? Was hoping it could be done with a slight crank of the torsion bars or a leveling kit. Also thinking about using H2 wheels.

Anyone running a 33x12.5 on a LMM? Was hoping it could be done with a slight crank of the torsion bars or a leveling kit. Also thinking about using H2 wheels.

I have a 3500 LMM DRW that I'm running 305/70-17 (33.8" x 12") and a leveling kit on the front. Had to trim the fender liner a bit. I could have cleared without trimming, but then my front would have been higher than the rear.

Any pictures?

Any pictures?

Pic's in post #4:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301577

cognito leveling kit and 305's....close to 12.5's

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=80652&d=1234750751

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=80655&d=1234751105

I have 34.5 X 12 on 8.5 rim (315's on H2's) with no rubbing and only 1 or 2 cranks on torsion adjuster bolts. Check garage for more pics.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i223/sledog75/CIMG0007-1.jpg

Sure ya can! But after goin'with my 33x12s, I'd suggest using 11 or 11,5 inches wide, for better mileage. Answered another guy's same question just this morning.
See below.

. . . to my eye, a 4x4's profile-view benefits from more meat in the fender. Mine are 305s on 20s, the only way I could find the E-loads that I wanted. But I'd have preferred 295/65 on 18s, showing a bit taller sidewall, while also saving a half-inch in width. Also, 18-inch wheels might be a bit cheaper, but the tires are always a bit less costly. It turns out tough to find a MFG making exactly the E-load tire you might want, but Goodyear's A/T, Silent Armor, was just released in a couple of 18-inch sizes that I might consider.

Both choices (295/65R18 vs 305/55R20) are 33 inches tall, needing just mild cranking on the Tbars to level it out. Shown here are the 305/55R20s. Lots more fitment discussion in my tire garage (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garage.php?do=view&g=17182).

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=47550&d=1198456565 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=47475&d=1198442832[/QUOTE]

Ive got 285/75/17 Toyo's on H2's on my LMM with some t-bar crankinghttp://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x47/path20/DSC_0015.jpg?t=1239929239

fdgb

Anyone running a 33x12.5 on a LMM? Was hoping it could be done with a slight crank of the torsion bars or a leveling kit. Also thinking about using H2 wheels.


<-- check my garage

In my garage. 33/12.5/17 Mud grapplers; leveling kit and zip-tied the wheel well liners back.

which one is taller 275/70/17 or a 33/12.50??

33's, believe their metric number is 285. I'll go check out my tires real quick...
Could also depend on the tire itself, brand and tread design I mean. I feel like BFG AT's are a bit taller than other tires in the same size, because that tread stands straight up.

Edit: Just checked my tires but Nitto labeled them 33/12.50/17. If I remember right from when I was a master at tire measurements during purchasing, it was 285. They're taller, and if I knew jack about the metric width measurements I'd comment on that too.

How are you guys fitting these 33x12 and 285's with only a leveling kit?

I have a Cognito UCA and keys (2.5 lift) and I can't fit 285 75 16 Toyo MT. My rims are 16x8 with a 4.51 backspace (exactly what Cognito calls for.) It's not even close to fitting. The tire hits the rear fender and I would have to cut out a lot of metal to fit them.

Are you guys grinding metal to fit these tires?

2009 2500 LMM

Im not 100% sure on the backspacing as I didn't mount them myself. However, they were rubbing something fierce when I was on my way home. Cranked the torsion bars after putting on a Daystar leveling kit, drilled a couple holes in the wheel well liners and zip-tied them back. If you look around, someone had posted a nice step-by-step guide on here. Im too lazy to find it =D

the 285 has nothing to do with the hieght... that is the width the second number is the hieght (sidewall that is).

i drill a couple holes in em and zip tie them back... dont cut the metal reshape it with a small sledge:D works perfect.

Ok, so you are modifying the metal fender in the rear. I do not like the idea of doing this as it compromises the strength of that corner, it's also a water flow drain too. (water from the windshield). We have a lot of salt and rain up here in BC so cutting it is also going to be exposing the raw sheet metal to rust.


I put in a Cognito UCA and Daystar keys today. (2.5 inch lift) I'll have to run a small profile 285 75 16 slick tire or a big profile mud terrain 265 75 16.

It just sucks now because I just now find out that all tires size differently, mud terrains are slightly bigger that all terrains in the same measurement with different brands.

The conclusion is with 2.5 inches cranked, 285 75 16 Toyo MT does not fit on my LMM without having to bend or cut metal. :mad:

I'm just going to test fit every tire out there too see if one of them will fit.

Ok, so you are modifying the metal fender in the rear. I do not like the idea of doing this as it compromises the strength of that corner, it's also a water flow drain too. (water from the windshield). We have a lot of salt and rain up here in BC so cutting it is also going to be exposing the raw sheet metal to rust.


I put in a Cognito UCA and Daystar keys today. (2.5 inch lift) I'll have to run a small profile 285 75 16 slick tire or a big profile mud terrain 265 75 16.

It just sucks now because I just now find out that all tires size differently, mud terrains are slightly bigger that all terrains in the same measurement with different brands.

The conclusion is with 2.5 inches cranked, 285 75 16 Toyo MT does not fit on my LMM without having to bend or cut metal. :mad:

I'm just going to test fit every tire out there too see if one of them will fit.

its just a truck not a air stream jetliner... but each to their own

:funnypost

all you need to do is curl that corner... if you do it right you would never know it from factory

use a soft blow hammer and u wont even scratch your paint:D

Ha Ha yah for sure, I hear you. I agree that if done right it is not even visible.

The thing is that the tires actually hit by quite a bit, as well the parking brake cable would have to be relocated. (Or tied back)? In the front, the plastic also needs to be tied back along with the windshield wiper fluid tank. A lot of mickey mouse to fit tires that might still rub?

Do you guys have pics of your fender corner mod? I looked at your truck pics but nothing close to see that.

I want to see how you fixed the plastic wheel well to the fender. Probably with a little bolt or screw?

Ha Ha yah for sure, I hear you. I agree that if done right it is not even visible.

The thing is that the tires actually hit by quite a bit, as well the parking brake cable would have to be relocated. (Or tied back)? In the front, the plastic also needs to be tied back along with the windshield wiper fluid tank. A lot of mickey mouse to fit tires that might still rub?

Do you guys have pics of your fender corner mod? I looked at your truck pics but nothing close to see that.

I want to see how you fixed the plastic wheel well to the fender. Probably with a little bolt or screw?

ilttle hammer and a sharp knife and few zip ties, plus if someone wants to stick here head in my dirty wheel wheel and say " man that looks bad" . he needs a job cleaning them.lol it aint that bad, but if you aint got the same backspacing as factory or a lil more i makes it that much worse.

Ha Ha yah for sure, I hear you. I agree that if done right it is not even visible.

The thing is that the tires actually hit by quite a bit, as well the parking brake cable would have to be relocated. (Or tied back)? In the front, the plastic also needs to be tied back along with the windshield wiper fluid tank. A lot of mickey mouse to fit tires that might still rub?

Do you guys have pics of your fender corner mod? I looked at your truck pics but nothing close to see that.

I want to see how you fixed the plastic wheel well to the fender. Probably with a little bolt or screw?

Are you sure you have the right back spacing on the wheels? Maybe they installed the wrong ones or something. I have 285/70/17 tires (stock wheels) which is almost the exact same size as what you have, and I'm not rubbing that bad. It does rub slighlty if the wheel is cranked and I hit a big (and I mean big) bump. I too have the Cognito leveling kit and I didn't even crank it very much. I would like to get 305/65/17 on my truck, but I don't want to go wider unless I can make some more fender room. If you folks can post some pictures of your handy hammer work on the fenders, it would be greatly appreciated.:)

/Users/benboyko/Desktop/IMG_0314.JPG/Users/benboyko/Desktop/IMG_0306.JPG/Users/benboyko/Desktop/IMG_0308.JPG/Users/benboyko/Desktop/IMG_0313.JPG/Users/benboyko/Desktop/IMG_0307.JPG/Users/benboyko/Desktop/IMG_0305.JPG/Users/benboyko/Desktop/IMG_0306.JPG

Here are the pics of my problem. 287 75 16, 8x16 4.5 inch backspace.....2.5 inch lift.

Same thing as all you guys. Here you can see everything is set up perfectly the way it is supposed to be. You can also see that 285 75 16 is not even close to fitting. I tried it with stock rims too....still not even close.

All you guys get them to fit perfectly?? Look how much metal I would have to cut

Try and figure that one out!

i dont even have my bars turn up near all the way

im running 35-12.5-18 and was running 35-12.5-17 on stock rims. i did have to massage my fender wells but they dont rub now even at full lock.

as for you living in bc im from manitoba i see the same salt you do and no problems just paint exposed metal its only common sense.
btw i have pics in my garage not recent ones thouht as i just got my truck back 2day.

So you guys are hammering in the fender in the rear. See my pics I posted, did yours look like that before the messaging? You had to modify as much as I would have to. I would almost have clear right up to the underside of that bolt that holds the fender to the cab. I guess I could get it line-X over it or something..... :(

It must be something to do with the cognito UCA's because I have a ready lift leveling kit and stock rims and my 285/75/16 duratracs fit no problem. Only a very slight rub at full steering wheel lock.

So you guys are hammering in the fender in the rear. See my pics I posted, did yours look like that before the messaging? You had to modify as much as I would have to. I would almost have clear right up to the underside of that bolt that holds the fender to the cab. I guess I could get it line-X over it or something..... :(

No, I have way more space than that. Something doesn't look right. However, i can tell that you have cranked a bit and the Cognito arms look to be installed correctly. Look at the pictures in my garage, one is a picture of my wheel well where I have pulled the fender liner back with a zip tie (I haven't hammer or bent anything yet). I was able to gain a lot of space right in the area where it looks like your wheel is hitting. If you look real close at the picture you can see the little area where it is very dark, that is where the zip tie is threaded through. Maybe that will work for you?

No, I have way more space than that. Something doesn't look right. However, i can tell that you have cranked a bit and the Cognito arms look to be installed correctly. Look at the pictures in my garage, one is a picture of my wheel well where I have pulled the fender liner back with a zip tie (I haven't hammer or bent anything yet). I was able to gain a lot of space right in the area where it looks like your wheel is hitting. If you look real close at the picture you can see the little area where it is very dark, that is where the zip tie is threaded through. Maybe that will work for you?





I have cranked up to 2.5 inches and to the maximum height Cognito specifies. I tried a slick tire on a stock rim and it was closer but still no go past that metal fender.

The conclusion is that I think all these truck frames are welded differently, you have 5mm here 2mm there, a pannel bolted 3mm off a swell, add it up and it's the difference between an oversize tire fitting and not fitting.

I know my truck is welded off because one side of requires higher UCA position to make the same difference in height top of fender to tire! It's 12mm difference. the gap between the droopstop is way different with the same tire to top of fender measurement by 12mm. Yes I was sitting on flat ground.

Could it be these trucks are all different and have a big tolerance in the welding and assembly?

one thing i have thought might be a possibility is how the mounts mount to the frame there is a litttle bit of play in the body mounts almost thinking you could loosen them(not unbolt them) and just gently with 3-4 guys slide it back for maybe and extra 1/2-5/8" or more of room. just my 2 cents also there is a bit off difference in the frame welding but every truck is diffrent.

I have cranked up to 2.5 inches and to the maximum height Cognito specifies. I tried a slick tire on a stock rim and it was closer but still no go past that metal fender.

The conclusion is that I think all these truck frames are welded differently, you have 5mm here 2mm there, a pannel bolted 3mm off a swell, add it up and it's the difference between an oversize tire fitting and not fitting.

I know my truck is welded off because one side of requires higher UCA position to make the same difference in height top of fender to tire! It's 12mm difference. the gap between the droopstop is way different with the same tire to top of fender measurement by 12mm. Yes I was sitting on flat ground.

Could it be these trucks are all different and have a big tolerance in the welding and assembly?


Pro-comp makes a kit to help make more room in the fender well. I've been trying to find it online, but I can't. Someone on this site was using it and had simalar problems as you. I had saved the picture if the instructions from his post. I think it was only like $15. I would like to get one too.

one thing i have thought might be a possibility is how the mounts mount to the frame there is a litttle bit of play in the body mounts almost thinking you could loosen them(not unbolt them) and just gently with 3-4 guys slide it back for maybe and extra 1/2-5/8" or more of room. just my 2 cents also there is a bit off difference in the frame welding but every truck is diffrent.


:jawdrop: That could be it! slide the full truck back on the frame as I have miles of room in the front! 5/8 might do it actually. Not sure If I would gain 5/8 but that would be crazy if that worked. I kind of thought it was a bolt through a hole style thing though. Might not be any room there though. Good idea though. I'll look at it.

:jawdrop: That could be it! slide the full truck back on the frame as I have miles of room in the front! 5/8 might do it actually. Not sure If I would gain 5/8 but that would be crazy if that worked. I kind of thought it was a bolt through a hole style thing though. Might not be any room there though. Good idea though. I'll look at it.

Let us know if that works. That would be pretty cool.

Pro-comp makes a kit to help make more room in the fender well. I've been trying to find it online, but I can't. Someone on this site was using it and had simalar problems as you. I had saved the picture if the instructions from his post. I think it was only like $15. I would like to get one too.

:drop_mout That certainly shows that I am not the only one with this dam fender issue! You know when Pro Comp makes a part for it.....GM has once again designed something not 100% Off road/upgrade/performance friendly.

Same thing as cutting the fender and making a little L barcket. I spoke with Line X and they said after I'm done cutting they could coat inside and out to protect it and also strengthen that area. Line X is tough shit, would look good too.

Crazy you found that pro comp fender mod!:eek:

Well folks, I did a very small fender modification and fit the Toyo MT 285 75 16 on the LMM and they fit perfectly. No rubbing at all anywhere. This was done Cognito UCA keys up 2.5 inches. I think 33x 12.5 would also clear too with no rubbing :gr_grin:

The fender mod was very easy and took only a cut of 1 inch and then folded up the corner. The little hole was reused to put a bolt back through to tie the fender well back tight away from the tire. I didn't even scratch the paint under there, can't even tell.

I was hesitant to bend in the fender at first because I thought I would have to cut into the structural cab area behind the fender. But not at all, it was meant to be.:)

Here is the pic, I really like these tires, they do extremely well in mud.

I am running 325-60/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers with a leveling kit, but did tie the inner fender back a little. I also have 1" blocks in back.
Tire sizes do vary from company to company, but a general way to know how tall a tire is follows:
325 / 25.4 converts MM to inches = 12.795"
12.795 x tire aspect as a decimal, in my case 0.60 = 7.677"
7.677" x 2, for two sidewalls = 15.354"
15.354" + 18" wheel = 33.354" tall tire.
Of course that is off the truck. Squatted down on the front with 54 psi, these tires are only 32" tall.

That's probably a good look too with those. I like the way 285 75 look on these trucks, any bigger than 33, the wheel wells just start looking to filled up.

Well folks, I did a very small fender modification and fit the Toyo MT 285 75 16 on the LMM and they fit perfectly. No rubbing at all anywhere. This was done Cognito UCA keys up 2.5 inches. I think 33x 12.5 would also clear too with no rubbing :gr_grin:

The fender mod was very easy and took only a cut of 1 inch and then folded up the corner. The little hole was reused to put a bolt back through to tie the fender well back tight away from the tire. I didn't even scratch the paint under there, can't even tell.

I was hesitant to bend in the fender at first because I thought I would have to cut into the structural cab area behind the fender. But not at all, it was meant to be.:)

Looks great! I wish I had a need for the M/T tires because they look so good, but I seldom see mud. I really like the look, good job.

I'd say if you don't need MT's for the mud, don't get them, it's a lot of vibration on the road and they suck up fuel economy, this was very noticeable right away. I have no engine mods though.

If only times weren't so sh!tty

Pics are in my garage...no leveling kit 325/60r/18 just raised the T-bars

Pics are in my garage...no leveling kit 325/60r/18 just raised the T-bars

Look's good. T bar raise is kind of the leveling kit. You must of had to bend the rear of the fender a bit to fit those?

Thanks and yes the back of the fenders had to be cut a little

There is a pic in my garage somewhere that shows what a sand filled mallot did for me on the rear of my fender. Simply bend the fender backwards and down, slice the wheel liner with utility knife and slip the liner behind the metal. You can still use the existing holes and not mess up the paint. This is when I was running 305/70/16, now I am running 285/65/18, and read this thread because I am wanting 33/12.5/18 muds. I will buy them now and do what is necessary to fit them in, even if it means a 4" lift.

Pics in my garage are before the Readylift leveling kit. I drove with 33x12.50 and 20x9 with no leveling kit for about 2 months. It can be done but i got annoyed with the rubbing every now and then. I did the Norcal Nick fender mod too, it helped but didnt end rubbing.

There is a pic in my garage somewhere that shows what a sand filled mallot did for me on the rear of my fender. Simply bend the fender backwards and down, slice the wheel liner with utility knife and slip the liner behind the metal. You can still use the existing holes and not mess up the paint. This is when I was running 305/70/16, now I am running 285/65/18, and read this thread because I am wanting 33/12.5/18 muds. I will buy them now and do what is necessary to fit them in, even if it means a 4" lift.

33x12.50 will be close but I have seen it fit with no rubbing.:D



Keep in mind, you will need to do the "Nor Cal Nick" fender mod even with a 4" lift with 33x12.50 AND with a 6" lift with 35X12.50

This was coming from the engineer at Cognito.

I have a stock front end with fender mod and don't rub at all, lowering shackles in rear to level out with front.

I have a stock front end with fender mod and don't rub at all, lowering shackles in rear to level out with front.

Yes you do. BUT.......you have an LBZ (old generation), in that body style you could fit those tires perfectly, maybe with a only bit of trimming on the front plastic bumper.

For the LMM (new generation body style) there is quite a bit less room in the wheel wells, particularly in the rear fender area. They do fit differently. Those with New body style need to modify the metal fender area to fit 33's, even with a 2 inch raise, 100%.:thumb: