Will taking the turbo power cover off lower temps on the PMD? If so does anyone know how much?

They say its a good idea as it holds in heat. How much it holds in and will it really help. Who knows. But it cant hurt. Besides, they you can do this without the cover on it. :D :D :D
http://www.customizedcreations.net/images/600_INtake_polish_3.jpg

I run without mine as I was told early on it helped retain heat, several have said that it doesn't, but it does make easier maintenance access, for fuel filter & in my case EGR blank-off plate.

If you still have a IP mounted driver, I strongly suggest remote mount in coolest spot out of the engine bay you can find, on a heat sink of your own design, or buy one but mount it outside bay, but best value for money IMO is Heath remote with 7yr warranty driver outside the bay

IMO, removing the turbo power cover buy's you nothing. Do it right the first time and save a bunch of $$$$$$$$$. If the FSD you have is working pull it off the IP, extend the wiring and mount it on a heat sink in front of the radiator. Relocating mine cost me about an hours work and $25 in parts(extension wire, heat sink, upper intake gasket), sure beats a $300+ FSD replacement.

sure beats a $300+ FSD replacement.
I agree with all above except no warranty if you do it yourself on the driver, unless you have a good source of inexpensive drivers; new Stanadyne is currently around $275 in todays dollars nobody knows what next or following years price will be.

I don't know that my Heath driver or anybodys driver for that matter will last forever out of the engine bay, but it will last longer there I have no doubt. Only thing though is that the extra price was worth it for me to buy complete & get the warranty also.

I have looked at a couple of these style pumps and on the back of all the PMDs Ive ever seen Thermal Dynamics or somthing like that is wrote on back of the PMD what is that and is there any thing you have to incorperate when you build a remote mount for it? Also can you remove the PMD with out removing the ip?

Will taking the turbo power cover off lower temps on the PMD? If so does anyone know how much?The way to lower PMD temp during operation and after shutdown is to relocate it infront of the radiator. It's a pita to take it off the IP but not impossible.

Nice intake CC.

I think another way to lower the temp of the PMD during operation is to Intercool it...

The way to lower PMD temp during operation and after shutdown is to relocate it infront of the radiator.

Nice intake CC.
Thanks QM , wait till I have my custom setup done):h

So can you just mount the PMD to a piece of aluminum where ever you want to put it or is there somthing else you have to do to make it work right?

The cooler pictured on my truck is the most common setup your going to probably see. Others are mounting them under the radiator or fender well, and some inside the cab of the truck. Basically put, yes you can mount it anywhere you want. Are there really differences in where everyone mounts it. Not sure , since I havent tried to mount mine in any other position. Just getting it out of the hard to work on area, I think is the really advantage. The PMD/FSD will still fail , no matter where you put it.

The cooler pictured on my truck is the most common setup your going to probably see.

Are there really differences in where everyone mounts it. Not sure , since I havent tried to mount mine in any other position. Just getting it out of the hard to work on area, I think is the really advantage. The PMD/FSD will still fail , no matter where you put it.
I had mine where yours is first, then on the firewall, then in front of the radiator. It was a gradual migration. Inside the cab isn't so wise. The driver makes noise and gets hot enough to fry an egg.

I agree with the ease of access though. I've had to replace mine since I moved it.

In order to address the original question, someone on another forum did a test in regards to the temps with and without the cover. He put a thermometer of some sort inside the engine compartment underneath the cover, I believe. He found that the temps were near equal across several different conditions. In one instance, if I remember right, the temps were lower WITH the cover than without. It is going to come down to a matter or your preference. Mine stays on because I think it looks terrible without it.

SnowDrift

Hood scoop!

Now you're thinking along my lines, QM! Exactly the reason I have a ram air hood - to force some of that hot air out of the engine compartment.



SnowDrift

The cooler pictured on my truck is the most common setup your going to probably see. Others are mounting them under the radiator or fender well, and some inside the cab of the truck. Basically put, yes you can mount it anywhere you want. Are there really differences in where everyone mounts it. Not sure , since I havent tried to mount mine in any other position. Just getting it out of the hard to work on area, I think is the really advantage. The PMD/FSD will still fail , no matter where you put it.
I disagree that it will fail no matter where, here is a post I made last year http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10778&highlight=points+ponder with some data behind my logic to reposition out of engine bay, I'll soon be going into year 2 on my bumper mounted Heath unit, your chromed cooler while attractive does cause me to wonder if it also helps to insulate the FSD from being cooled as well as it can be, do you have good bare metal to bare metal contact with the Bill Heath machines the FSD to cooler mating surface to insure best heat xfer. if it does fail however the warranty will be well worth the price I paid for it.

I'm with TD, if the FSD mounted in a place where it will not get hot, there is no reason why it should ever fail.

My unit started stalling infront of the radiator, and as gmctd suggests the 1/4" transistor nuts required retorqing. I'd call that a vibration induced failure not heat, so I put a large rubber pad between the cooler and the frame of the truck.

Vibration actually plays little-to-no part in it.

The cause is the large hot\cool swings, causing contraction\expansion in the various components - ss screws\nuts, internal aluminum heat sink, epoxy potting, epoxy ckt board, etc - loose fasteners reduce thermal conductivity.

The ss screws\nuts are the only electrical circuit path between ckt board and ss transistor cases - naturally occuring chromium oxides on ss reduce electrical continuity, as does loose interface at the various junctions.

Underhood heat during forward vehicle motion seldom exceeds 150deg - long as you keep moving, FSD mounted underhood is survivable.

The real killer is the very high temperatures encountered when in stopped traffic, with a\c burning, coupled with high temp heat-soak after shut-down.

Temperatures can exceed 400deg under those circumstances - not very conducive to solid-state survival or longevity.

No amount of electric fans blowing over the assembly will cool it, if underhood ambient is over 250deg.

Up front in the cool air flow, where ambient seldom exceeds 100deg, would be a good location.

IMO