We just bought a new 5er and I am having a hard time getting it level with my 3500 dually

http://image40.webshots.com/40/5/35/87/307953587kYRszp_ph.jpg

I have had the Jake Plates adjusted to raise the 5er as much as possible ( flipping axels out of the question ) Is there anything I can do to the truck itself to lower the rear end some with out messing up my warranty?

Need to list the type of axles/springs (Dexter 5000lbs/tapered leaf) you have on that trailer. Can't make a suggestion without it. It may be possible to exchange the springs for taller ones (longer with more arch to them), for a lot less $$$ than trying to "lower" your truck.

RF.

In order to maintain our 6" bedrail clearance, the best we could do was 2" high in the front. This put an additional 400# on the rear axle. How far from level are you?

I have AL-KO axels with double eye suspension if that helps
Right now it appears I am about 2 inches off level from my levels mounted on the side.
My last 5er was a 2002 Four Winds and it set perfect. It had an extended pin box on it.
I dont know if putting one on this will help or not?

Did the RV dealership where you bought the 5ver see your tow vehicle when you were making this deal? They do this day in and out and should have known you would be too high up front. :o: Why is flipping the axles out of the question? :confused:

When I bought my 5ver the guy spent a solid day getting the hitch height right. Turned out to be a royal PITA! Censored I'm sitting about 3500lbs of pin weight which sits the rear end of the turck down some. If the RV dealership is close by you might ask for their assistance, can't hurt! JJ :)

Dealership says it is fine and will be ok.
I have had the Jake Plates lowered to raise the 5er as much as posible.
I really dont want to flip the axels
I was wondering if lowering the rear of the truck was an option?

I thought only the Dodge owners had the clearance/leveling issues that you are experiencing since they sit so high. Have seen many of those combos with the axles lowered (out of necessity), so it seems like it can be done safely. I would be more comfortable with the trailer nearest level as possible and having it level might give the correct pin weight. There is adjustment on the pin box, but that won't help in this case as there would be clearance issues with the pickup box. As 03 Radio Flyer has said, it seems that any adjustments would be best done on the trailer (axle). I think I'd have some words with the dealer if he thinks the setup as it is now is satisfactory, or at the very least, get an additional opinion or two.

Paul 3500,

Did they install the hitch in your truck? :confused: If so, take a look at the owners manual for your 5ver. The manufacturers usually put instructions in there for why it is important to have the tow vehicle/trailer heights in sync with each other. May even be some pictures as examples. If they did the install it should be on their dime to :grd: .

Most, not all, RV dealerships try to minimize any additional shop time since that is money out of their pockets after the deal is closed. If they're balking at the additional hours of labor to fix it take that as a good sign, it usually indicates you drove a pretty tight deal. The big money makers get high priority at RV dealerships! ;)

Out of curiosity why are you so against flipping the axles? :rolleyes: JJ :)

Go to home depot and get as many sacks of concrete you will need to make it level, plus it will help the ride!!!):h:lol:

JJs DuMax
Yes I beat them real bad on the front end and the back end of the deal.
Issues with the salesmen and the owner and in the end We Won!!!
The hitch was in the truck from the last 5er I had, It worked fine for it.
Only difference is my old 5er had an extended pin box on it.
Made it look as though it set better. Definitly had more rail space though!!
As far as flipping the axel's goes, I just have a bad feeling about doing that.
If I keep raising this thing I am afraid I might be getting TOO TALL for some underpasses.....

Now concreat bag's in the bed sounds intresting but where would I put my fire wood???

I wouldn't worry as much about overpasses since they are marked and truckers get under them most every day. It's those dang tree limbs that will kick your a$$! :D Mama JJ found that out the hard way with our 5ver. :( Maybe you need a different hitch? Any other RV dealers in your neck of the woods? Doesn't sound like you want to go back to the dealership you bought the 5ver from since they'll likely be licking their chops! ;)

RF3, IIRC aren't most 5ver's around 10-12' tops, highest point being the A/C casings in most instances. Aren't most overpasses a minimum 13'+-? JJ :)

PAUL3500, have the same thing with my dually,Working on lowering the truck to match the 5er. Talked with DJM suspension, they have a kit that will lower the truck 2-5inches. I havent had time to call ride-rite to see how tall the bags are. this allso takes the rake out of truck. I should know more in a few days. MAXPWR

The heigth of the trailer should be on the build sheet in one of the cabinets. Its measured with or without the A/C, so you may want to check it out. If the A/C is "extra" add 8", if it came with it will be included in the overall heigth. The big Tetons, etc. can be 13+ to top of A/C, but most "high provile" Fivers are between 11' 10" - 12' 4". None are more than 13' 6", which is the height of van trailers (18-wheelers).

If you cant find the info marked inside the trailer. measure it youself from a flat area by placing a 4' peice of 1 x 4 across the hightest point on the roof, overhanging the edge by a foot, then measure with a tape from ground to base of plank. You then add the A/C by judging how much is above the higherst point you've just measured.

Flipping the axles, or mounting the axle tube under the springs, will only add the diameter of the tube to your overall heigth, maybe 3" to 4". You can then go to a higher profile tire to make up the difference if needed. There is no difference in ride quality when this is done. However, it does raise the first step, which may be a problem for some folks. In those cases, 3-step entry steps are available, which comes in different lengths of risers, to compensate for the different floor heigths in different trailers.

Still, making mods to the trailer is cheaper than mods on the truck. Lowering kits (Low Riders) are not only costly, but will not be covered on your truck's warranty since they modify the factory rating. Just make shure the brochure specifies that all components are tested for heavy towing.

As JJ said, tree trimming is a factor with most any fiver, not just in campgrounds, but also on mainstreets in a lot of small towns. This is where you must rely on a good trucker's atlas to do your routing. If its a truck route, then the 18 wheelers (hopefully) have done the trimming for you. Consider that every spring, trees reach out to get more sunlight, and regrowth make tree trimming an annual event. Its all about keeping an eye out on all your surroundings while operating with a fiver...which you should be doing anyways, trees or not. Be mindfull of low overpasses, especially the oval shaped ones in New England, where the heigths in the far right lane and shoulder can be quite a bit lower than the center or left lanes.

RF

have you looked at the suspension equalizers ? you could get an additional 2 inches out of them, unless they are what you are referring to as Jake Plates, never heard that term