2004 Silverado 2500HD with Duramax/Allison, came with the HD trailering option. I will eventually be hauling my boat.

Trailer (1,650lbs) - 3 axles, each with electric over hydraulic brakes, Voyager controller in truck.
Boat (9000lbs with full gas tank, 7800lbs dry)

Will the factory OEM hitch handle a potential 10,650lb load, or should I just move to a Draw-Tite or Titan, not sure which model to look at?

Is there a locking receiver pin that will handle the load? Most seem to be rated to 10,000 lbs. max.

Thanks in advance.

do not tow with that hitch..... Get a titan.... Its not worth the risk of the insurance(heaven forbid something happens but you nevere know) saying overloaded due to hitch being under rated and not cover. There are some pins out there that are heavy duty as well, just be sure to get the titan balmount as well and a ball rated for more than what you are towing, the ball that I have is rated at 30k, not chrome but I wont sweat worring about the ball to break as well. I tow roughly the same weight with my set up and have seen a couple of the factory hitches break, my friend here has a trailer repair shop see lots of mistakes happen there.

With boat trailering, its not as much the draw weight as it is the tongue weight that will rip out the hitch. Boats tend to carry their weight far aft, requiring long ball to center of axles for proper distribution. This adds side torque that weaken weld points. You'll also find that when you get onto a scale, after drawing it out of the water, your wet weight (fuelled or not) will surprise you. Bilges and stray gear can add a lot more weight that you would expect through casual observation.

Titan is the towing industry standard, but will require 2.5" receiver attachement, or 2.5" to 2" adapter to use. The Draw-tite is a 2" receiver, but you will spend just as much for the solid (not tubular bar) cast receiver attachment. Do NOT use a tubular atachment on long wheel base trailers (such as a boat trailer). Seen too many bent or broken ones near the launch ramps. Its not the highway that kills them, its the maneuvering in tight or busy launch areas.

RF.

I tow boats all over the country and use botha gooseneck and receiver ball hitch.our ball hitch uses the tubular load control and have not had any problems ,but i could see that an inexperiaced driver could get bound up manuevering.the factory hitch is fine but get a securing pin with a high shear rating.prefer ones that lock,somebody is always looking to take what you have.my gross weight with our receiver hith gas been as high as 26000 lbs

I also trailer a boat heavy boat and trailer (12,500lbs). I just installed the Reese Titan receiver a couple of weeks ago. I am not real happy with it. First on the install there are two 14mm nuts that need to removed, they were next to impossible to remove, it took me a while to get them off. The two methods of removal in the instructions did not work. The nut was tack welded in three spots. I finally had to get a grinder to get them off.

Then after installing the hitch I noticed that the front mounting hole on the frame is about 1 1/4 inches in diameter, same with the rear hole. So the only hole holding the whole hitch in terms of shear is the middle hole, which is not ever the biggest bolt.

Try the Putnam XDR. Class V, 2" receiver, and bolts right up to the frame without drilling or grinding.

Less $$$ than the Titan too.

Kind of off topic but need to through my 2 bits in.

I haul my 20 Ft Alm behind my Du Max with a 9 ft slide camper weighing around 13500 lbs total.

Hitch not a problem but used the wifes Bravdo SUV to pull the boat out to Prince Rupert BC last weekend and used more fuel than the D Max with the camper on! The price was even a bit more here as diesel is cheaper.

I have pulled 16000 lbs on a rear hitch with a Ford 1 ton dulley power stroke and that was an accident waiting to happen. Seems on commen piece of mind that no more than 8000 with a tounge load of 200/300 Lbs would be my limit. Nice if the trailer was loaded properly too.

Ed