gasuout
04-10-2009, 05:03 PM
This will fit in all pre 07 medium duty kodiak chassis .
The intercooler from 07 kodiaks bolts directly in all pre 07 : 06,05,04.5,04 -4500/5500 's with dmax and plastic intercooler tanks .
This part # is the all Aluminum Intercooler out of 07 and later kodiaks .
GM PART # 15843434
All aluminum welded tanks to core . Core is thicker on later 07 cooler by almost 1/2 " .
To install this you drill out the rivets for brackets they put on 07 and later intercooler and use all your original trans cooler/ condersor brackets . You just need to add a 1/8 " spacer behind brackets on bottom mount for trans/condensor mounts .
I do mine with the hood off , its just easier and also very easy to take hood off . Makes getting in and out a breeze . Can be done with hood on , just a pain . You have to release driverside hood cable hold to do with hood on .
Thats it , it is direct bolt in . Good find for all kodiak owners .
I will follow this thread and anybody needing any help doing this can PM me or call me . 714-514-3675 .
07 cooler comes with 4 brackets for trans cooler/ condensor mounts . I drilled the rivets out and discarded . Didnt need them and used original mounts that are seperate.from intercooler . Only thing added was 2 washers behind lower condensor/trans cooler brackets to space for extra 1/2 of core thickness . Needed on bottom mounts only behind bracket to frame . In one of the pics you see me with 2 washers in hand showing where to add . If you wanted to use with 07 brackets you can . It eliminates original condensor bracket . It does make it quite a bit more difficult to get in this way and I think the original bracket is stronger and better for reinforcing the trans cooler mount . My opinion .
I would recommend this to all pre 07 kodiaks as a good upgrade . The core is almost 1/2 " thicker and the tanks look much better inside for flow .
I would describe it like going from a 3 core to a 4 core radiator . Dont expect any real hp gains . I dont see huge difference and wouldnt expect it to be . It still has to be more efficiant . I might be nuts but It seems like I am about 50-75* cooler at cruise on race tune and I get to 1600 slower and can hold it on longer it seems before I get to 1600* . I havnt towed with it yet or run a small tune on it . I will and report back . It sure looks good through the grill over that plastic pile .
Either way it is a upgrade over the recycled milk carton cooler .
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83726&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83726&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83727&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83727&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83728&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83728&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83729&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83729&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83730&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83730&d=1239266027)
Again thanks burbanman for the part # off your truck .
Anybody wanting to do this , use the part # GM PART # 15843434 .
If you need help get ahold of me . I can walk you through the whole procedure step by step . Most important to look at where your intercooler clamp studs are located on both sides before removal . Your hood will hit clamp studs if not positioned and clocked correctly . Also you have to manipulate one of the A/C lines a bit to get intercooler in and out driver side of truck . A/C line needs to be bent some to give clearance to get intercooler out . This is easily done with some finesse . You need to pay close attention to detail cleaning connections and getting everything back in its place . It is easy to do A/C line and bend back in place . If you are not comfortable with that you can discharge and remove line and recharge A/C after finished . Getting the coolers in and out and attention to not beating the cooler core or fins on anything is the most important thing to me . You'll be pissed when you look at your new cooler and see a bunch of fins pushed sideways . It is best to install with 2 people . I barely brushed a few on mine and straightend easy . Take you time . Getting cold side tank outlet to clear between trans cooler/condensor and radiator to go out driverside is the tight part . It will clear with no room to spare . You have to hold condensor/trans cooler up and away at same time as manipulating cold side out betwen these things , with another person holding hot side inlet guiding intercooler in and out for you from driverside .
If none of this makes sense call me . 714-514-3675 .
Johnny
The intercooler from 07 kodiaks bolts directly in all pre 07 : 06,05,04.5,04 -4500/5500 's with dmax and plastic intercooler tanks .
This part # is the all Aluminum Intercooler out of 07 and later kodiaks .
GM PART # 15843434
All aluminum welded tanks to core . Core is thicker on later 07 cooler by almost 1/2 " .
To install this you drill out the rivets for brackets they put on 07 and later intercooler and use all your original trans cooler/ condersor brackets . You just need to add a 1/8 " spacer behind brackets on bottom mount for trans/condensor mounts .
I do mine with the hood off , its just easier and also very easy to take hood off . Makes getting in and out a breeze . Can be done with hood on , just a pain . You have to release driverside hood cable hold to do with hood on .
Thats it , it is direct bolt in . Good find for all kodiak owners .
I will follow this thread and anybody needing any help doing this can PM me or call me . 714-514-3675 .
07 cooler comes with 4 brackets for trans cooler/ condensor mounts . I drilled the rivets out and discarded . Didnt need them and used original mounts that are seperate.from intercooler . Only thing added was 2 washers behind lower condensor/trans cooler brackets to space for extra 1/2 of core thickness . Needed on bottom mounts only behind bracket to frame . In one of the pics you see me with 2 washers in hand showing where to add . If you wanted to use with 07 brackets you can . It eliminates original condensor bracket . It does make it quite a bit more difficult to get in this way and I think the original bracket is stronger and better for reinforcing the trans cooler mount . My opinion .
I would recommend this to all pre 07 kodiaks as a good upgrade . The core is almost 1/2 " thicker and the tanks look much better inside for flow .
I would describe it like going from a 3 core to a 4 core radiator . Dont expect any real hp gains . I dont see huge difference and wouldnt expect it to be . It still has to be more efficiant . I might be nuts but It seems like I am about 50-75* cooler at cruise on race tune and I get to 1600 slower and can hold it on longer it seems before I get to 1600* . I havnt towed with it yet or run a small tune on it . I will and report back . It sure looks good through the grill over that plastic pile .
Either way it is a upgrade over the recycled milk carton cooler .
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83726&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83726&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83727&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83727&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83728&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83728&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83729&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83729&d=1239266027)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83730&thumb=1&d=1239266027 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83730&d=1239266027)
Again thanks burbanman for the part # off your truck .
Anybody wanting to do this , use the part # GM PART # 15843434 .
If you need help get ahold of me . I can walk you through the whole procedure step by step . Most important to look at where your intercooler clamp studs are located on both sides before removal . Your hood will hit clamp studs if not positioned and clocked correctly . Also you have to manipulate one of the A/C lines a bit to get intercooler in and out driver side of truck . A/C line needs to be bent some to give clearance to get intercooler out . This is easily done with some finesse . You need to pay close attention to detail cleaning connections and getting everything back in its place . It is easy to do A/C line and bend back in place . If you are not comfortable with that you can discharge and remove line and recharge A/C after finished . Getting the coolers in and out and attention to not beating the cooler core or fins on anything is the most important thing to me . You'll be pissed when you look at your new cooler and see a bunch of fins pushed sideways . It is best to install with 2 people . I barely brushed a few on mine and straightend easy . Take you time . Getting cold side tank outlet to clear between trans cooler/condensor and radiator to go out driverside is the tight part . It will clear with no room to spare . You have to hold condensor/trans cooler up and away at same time as manipulating cold side out betwen these things , with another person holding hot side inlet guiding intercooler in and out for you from driverside .
If none of this makes sense call me . 714-514-3675 .
Johnny