under the truck tonight i looked at the transfer case tail shaft output. it has a rubber mount, looks like a center bearing. the rubber is all crushed on the top and away from the bottom. i plan ot get a new one. i haven't found it. is it possible that there is another problem if the tail shaft is so far up? the transmission mount looks quite dried out and cracked also, i found at rock auto for about $10. is it a better idea to use a more durable one like urethane, or similar?
the motor mounts look about the same as the transmission mount. i have no idea how to r/r around the front diff. any suggestions? do i have to pull the diff? should i consider doing these mounts?
jon

Look if the crossmember that carries the tranny is straight. if the motor mounts are shot,the tailend will lift, using the tranny mount as the fulcrum.
I would replace them all.
Changing motor mounts is a bear,but can be done by taking the trough bolts out and lifting the engine some.Its a 2 man job.
no need to pull the diff

thanks for the reply. that would make sense as to why it is up in the rear.
will give it all a looking over today.
pisses me off, the engine was replaced, why not replace things like the motor mounts when it is easy.
i looked at them, can see the bolts holding to the frame, it's tight.
jon

The mechanic Must have been a politician,no common sense

If you do decide to replace the motor mounts, Energy Suspension makes a nice urethane replacement. I used them on my project.

Appreciated the urethane mounts even more when I installed a replacement fan clutch & the DMax fan. Very tight fan clearance around most of the shroud, yet the urethane mounts seem to keep torque rotation of the engine better than the softer rubber OEM mounts.

I've noticed added vibration when using urethane motor mounts on past projects but haven't seen that w/ my 6.5.

if i do have to go ahead w/new engine mounts, i will consider the ones mentioned, i appreciate hearing about different choices, sounds reasonable.
i actually work for a former politician (he left the U.S. Senate after 8yrs because he feels that "long termers" become ineffective), he has always been well respected, i have an idea of how things work around here in D.C.
i put a 4' level under the crossmember held in place w/a jack, i'd add pictures, but, from what you describe, this nails. w/the almost 1/4" thickness of the main frame rails, measuring in the center span i have about 7/16" space below the front edge of the crossmember (making it about 5/16" above a straight line or more) and almost 5/8" at the rear in the center w/a few ripples (3/8" above a straight line).
where the hell to i buy a cross member other than the dealer? i will make calls to salvage yards first.
thank you again for the input, i stopped to think, then decided to look at it practically, what could be wrong? sure enough, that was it.
number one, i say "glad the damn truck had a skid plate under the transfer case". number two,what the hell did the SOB run over?
this may explain the nasty noise i hear at different times, i don't know what a worn motor mount may sound like, but i thought it sounded like something driveline rubbing or out of place.
damn used cars. i hate not knowing the history.
jon

you could take the member to a welding shop and have it pressed straight.
when the motor mounts are worn one gets steel on steel clattering.

thats a good idea, we have a sheet metal/fab shop local that has done some good work for me.
i'll call in the AM.
thanks again.
jon