Hey all,
I've been reading through the posts trying to familiarize myself with some of the lingo and ongoings in a Diesel. I am thinking of getting a 95 k2500 w/ a 6.5 TD. What should I be on the lookout for when I look at this odd hunk of metal? I've been in and out of gassers for some time and wanted to try the diesel thing.
Thanks for any help.

Tim

Check it for codes with a paper clip between A and B pins of ALDL, key on.
It will flash them out on the check engine light.

'95 is a good year. beware of 97.5 thru 99 with oil piston spray block prone to cracking. For reliability remote mount the PMD/FSD and if your going to tow consider upgrading the cooling to the 97+ system. There is lots of bolt on power goodies which really wake this engine up and make the truck fun to drive.

'95 is a good year. beware of 97.5 thru 99 with oil piston spray block prone to cracking.
I thought all 97's have the weak blocks. Any idea when the blocks were changed? Casting numbers?

You could be right about all 97's. There were several significant changes starting with the begining of the '96 model year, for the cooling system, oil system and that's when the PCM went to the non removable chip, they were making changes rapidly and not waiting for model year end to implement the changes. I don't know what the casting #'s are for the oil spray blocks, but according to what I've read the lines for the oil cooler are 1/2inch on the oil spray blocks and 3/8inch on earlier blocks.

My oil lines are 5/8" OD (so that makes the 1/2" ID), so I guess I have an oil spray block. Oh well.

Tim;

I have a 1995 c-2500 and it has been a good truck for me, I bought it New. If I was in the market right now for a 6.5 my first prefference would be a 92or 93 6.5 then another 1995 or even a 1994. Next would be a newer 6.5 if I could find a good deal. Look through the FAQ section well this will also help you.

i'd look for a single peice crankshaft and all 8 pistons and rods to actually be inside the engine for starters :D

Take it for a long ride and get it warmed up good, then check the codes, cause some dealers will clear the codes before you buy it. I learned this the hard way. And just like MDT said, there are alot of mods you can do to these engines, they are alot of fun and I'm sure it will make you a good truck.

Thanks for the reponses...I did look for an older one (93ish) without the IP's that are prone to failure, but no luck...except for an expensive one (10k). The 95 is right around $6500...but I haven't looked it over yet.
Thanks for all the info...I'll be reading.
Tim

how many miles?
auto or manual?
get the vin number checked. semi-crazy over at gmdiesel.com can check it for you.

It has 140,000 miles on it and is an auto 4x4. I had te VIN traced and it came up emtpy. Nothing truly known except what I may find out when I see it. I am doing the crash course in deisels...I'll hopefully be off early enugh tommorrow to go check it out. If not, I can wait. It is a good looking truck...silverado if that means anything...it looks better than the plain k2500.
Thanks
Tim

Tim,
I did the same thing. I bought a 95 from a stealer, but got in touch with the original owner after I bought it. 130,000 miles, 4x4 2500 with every option ext cab long bed. Had a new ip at 100,000 and was very well maintained. Right off the bat, the day I bought it, I had to install a OPS ( oil pressure switch ) that runs the fuel pump. The truck wouldnt run good, was very sluggish and stalled. Next shortly after I installed a remote pmd and burned out a pmd unit. Regardless of what people say remote units might save the pmd ( pump motor drive or fsd fuel supply driver ) a little extra life, but its still a bad design and moving it anywhere isnt going to fix the problem 100%, it may help, but doenst make it bullet proof. The next thing is the lift pump, those are prone to fail as well. I have in my glove box, a spare PMD, oil pressure switch and lift pump. But back to my truck for comparisions, mine is in excellent shape ( check it out on my web page ) leather interior and has every option. My cd player worked intermittenly, so I put in a new radio. Other then that, the stealer was supposed to fix some front end components, but didnt. They also did something with the transfer case switch as it wouldnt engage in 4 wheel high. It had two stong chips, so I had my buddy install a new windshield and made the dealer pay for it. Besides a lousy detail job. I walked out the door for $6400 including tax , title and fees. $6000 was the price of the truck.

Good luck and check it out throughly, they can be huge money pits, really really fast.

Check it for codes with a paper clip between A and B pins of ALDL, key on.
It will flash them out on the check engine light.
:exactly:


:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
Sounds like my old Ramcharger...but I have an unleaded background. What is an ALDL? Wher can I find it?
How do I read the codes...I imagine off the check engine light, but how to I break them out?


Thanks again
Tim

If you are serious about buying it carfax will do a cursory vin search for free, more detailed if you pay for it, but any Chevy/GM dealer worth a darn can/will plug the vin into their system to see what work GM has done on the vehicle.

I have in my glove box, a spare PMD, oil pressure switch and lift pump.

Sounds like a good idea, I think I may have to follow suit should all work out. I should come up there to get a truck...everyone down here jacks the prices to all hell if it a 4x4 or a diesel...and damn ya if you want both.
I saw the IP run between $700-900 rebuilt...how much does a PMD, OPS and a lift pump run?

Thanks Tim

Timdog,
ALDL (Auto line diagnostic Link, iirc) is under the dash. codes will flash as two sets of flashes per number, Exapmle flash, flash, flash pause flash, flash flash flash flash, is DTC 35 then it will repeat three times then the next code and the first will repeat as the cycle begins again. 12 means alls clear.

Is this truck from a dealer? I'd only expect codes from an individual but who knows. How much they asking? There's a '93 K3500 crewcab dually next door for $5500.

It's a used dealer...I think he is asking 7...Im going to offer 6500...
I don't think I need a dually, but where is next door...I'm in Jax Florida.
How's the truck next door?

Thanks
Tim

It's in the small town I live in, in S.E. Texas. I havn't checked it out but the '93 is one of the best years and best of all, no EFI. it has the coveted DB-2 4911 injector pump, so don't let GMdieseltech sell you a PMD.


But on the flip side, I'll sell you my '94 with all the mods listed below if you cover the dually. My '94 is a single rear wheel 1ton 4x4.

Tim,
The ops is $30, the pmd/fsd is $300 new from a dealer, $175 or so off ebay new, the lift pump is $185 dealer, around $100 ebay.

I just passed a 95 2500 ext cab 2 whl no rust, 150,000 miles , new tires and decent options, $6250 , but I am in Michigan.

I bought a new lift pump from Advance Auto Parts for $53... NAPA wanted $110 for one, and Pep Boys had no idea what a lift pump was so I couldn't get a price from them.

My search continues...the VIN checked back as havving 209,000 back in 2001. The guy doesn't know any history...but I would doubt that it has a new engine in it. Michihan huh? could be a hell of a road trip.

Thanks for the responses again...anyone close to Fla have a good deal?

Tim

One of these days I'll find the 6.5L that I'm looking for. Until then, I'll be content to drive my 'other diesel' - '04 Jetta TDI - 52mpg.

WTB - '94/'95 GM/Chev 2500, 4x4, 6.5TD, Reg Cab, Long Box, P/W, P/L, air, cruise - 5spd or auto. NO RED TRUCKS.

Here's the '93 I was talking about. It has 203K miles, 4L80E setup for gooseneck, std cloth interior, pretty much stock. $5500

Or you could have this 95 c/w 6" lift kit, 35" rubber, 3" exhaust, new head gaskets @ approx 215,000 miles with 221,000 miles on the truck.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19424

But you'll have to wait untill my 00 is back together as i'm driving it now!!):h