Anybody ever tried the stuff ??

The website is informative on NPG coolant.

But i am not brave enough to try it.

It might void my warranty;)

I've used Evans coolant. Not on a street car though.. on a circle track car. Got expensive everytime the car wrecked. I think it's purple in color IIRC.

Works good but I don't see any need in my truck.. Why would you convert? Never heard of coolent related problems with a dmax. Dexcool seems to do the job.

Color is semi clear but will turn black after awahile in the system. DexCool is junk. Its OAT technology and it can cause serious problems on some motors, although I have not heard of it on a Dmax yet. You can run zero pressure and that is easier on all components. It does not boil till 375* so you always have coolant in contact with all metal surefaces which helps to cool better and no hot spots. Sent 16 gallon out to AZ today for 2 Dmax applications. Have several on it. The Ford guys love it because you don't have cavitation problems like regular coolant does. So you can run hotter without boiling over and that can give you more power.

Greg

Thanks Greg, good info! I suppose you would certaintly recommend it in a DMAX then, right?

Dan

Greg
Does Evans reduce the engine running temp? I believe I read on your site that it is guaranteed for life, i.e. it does not need to be replaced because it causes no corrosion?

I bought it from greg for use here in austin, texas. I will be draining my dexcool shortly and replacing with the stuff. You are supposed to drain block, heater coil, and everything, run distilled water thru system, drill small hole in radiator cap. Drain complete system again Fill system with evans coolant and check level daily and fill as necessary. remaining water will evaporate thru small hole in cap. I like the idea of very low or no pressure cooling system. Heck, I have listened to all the diesel jarheads here and havent been led astray yet.
Joe

Ive read Evans website very thoroughly (sp?) and ive seen it used in a couple race cars out here and was just curious if anybody has run it in their truck or daily driver and what they thought of it.
I dont have any over-heating issues either, but i do drive very hard, and ilike the idea of not having any "hot-spots" internally.
$28/gallon is a lot to spend on any type of fluid, but i plan on driving this thing until it explodes, or until i just cant fit anymore girls in it and i need to upsize. :D

Do you guys think i should look into replacing any hoses or the stat as long as im at it ??

Has been in the 01 since October of 01. No problems other than a little thicker when below freezing. Not good for the Espar. Will be putting it in the 04.5 after I'm sure the new pump is not leaking.

My 02. NPG+ is very nicely suited for fringe thinkers. I have it in my 3 cars and my durmax. I also run all my vehicles with a no pressure cooling system, including the duramax and no it does not overheat. It runs normal temperatures (gauge shows normal temps), but it does warm up up quicker than a presurrized system. I reccomend it highly, based on the longterm usage and no routine maintenance. I would recomend a drain plug and hose for coolant drain for waterpump etc to save the coolant for reinstalling it.

Dexcool I would remove as fast as I could based on it's history. Do a web search.
Questions? PM me.

My 02. NPG+ is very nicely suited for fringe thinkers. I have it in my 3 cars and my durmax. I also run all my vehicles with a no pressure cooling system, including the duramax and no it does not overheat. It runs normal temperatures (gauge shows normal temps), but it does warm up up quicker than a presurrized system. I reccomend it highly, based on the longterm usage and no routine maintenance. I would recomend a drain plug and hose for coolant drain for waterpump etc to save the coolant for reinstalling it.

Dexcool I would remove as fast as I could based on it's history. Do a web search.
Questions? PM me.
You mean the threads about the Dexcool crystallizing AL and FE when in an engine together? Specifically crystallizing the AL structure and precipitating out silica solids... and hence the name 'Deathcool'?

Bring me up to speed, i have not read much on that lately.
thanks
j

I am confused on how it isn't a pressurized system after you install the Evans... is it because of the hole you drill in the radiator cap? (yeah, I'm dumb!)

Dan

Greg
Does Evans reduce the engine running temp? I believe I read on your site that it is guaranteed for life, i.e. it does not need to be replaced because it causes no corrosion?
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Running temps usually stay within in the normal operating range. But the good thing is if it does go up you are protected. Yes its a life time coolant and will not cause corrosion and will not need to be tested or additives added.

I am confused on how it isn't a pressurized system after you install the Evans... is it because of the hole you drill in the radiator cap? (yeah, I'm dumb!)

Yes your correct. Not having a pressurized system is a big plus to me. Less wear and tear on the hoses and other components, plus its a great safety feature.

I have it in my 6.5TD and couldn't be happier. I can pull my trailer in the winter with the winter front closed and its stays at 210* and I could never do that with Dex Cool.

We have been selling it at $21.50 but it has gone to $23.50 since April 1. The only pain about Evan's is getting it changed over. I put it in the 6.5 when we did ti overhaul so no big deal. I have to look at the Dmax and see if block drains are excessible, which I doubt.

Greg

Can you mix Evans with other coolants as a quick fix since Evans might not be accessible in an emergency ie. a busted hose in the middle of nowhere?

Yes you can, but you would wait to change it out as soon as you can. But by running a non pressurized system brust hose a a thing of the past..

Greg

Speaking of coolant :) How's that kit coming Greg? Is there anything special I need to do when I install it, or is it pretty much straight forward?

Should have the stuff here on Monday. Pretty easy to do, cut heater hoses and put in the tee's it the hardest part.\
greg

so my question is: how does the Evans coolant flow throughout the coolant passages and hoses if it is not pressurized?

Also, does the hole in the radiator cap let particles into the radiator that could cause problems?... such as contamination or corrosion?

If there is possibly a link that could better inform me instead of someone having to answer ALL of my questions would be appreciated! I don't want to fill this thread full of my lack of knowledge.

Thanks,
Dan

so my question is: how does the Evans coolant flow throughout the coolant passages and hoses if it is not pressurized?

Also, does the hole in the radiator cap let particles into the radiator that could cause problems?... such as contamination or corrosion?

If there is possibly a link that could better inform me instead of someone having to answer ALL of my questions would be appreciated! I don't want to fill this thread full of my lack of knowledge.

Your lack of knowledge may better somebody who has the same questions as you.
This is Evans website, and i have read it pretty thoroughly. Maybe it can help you out as well.

www.evanscooling.com (http://www.evanscooling.com)

Thanks Brian!

Dan

You can call Evans too. They have good technical support.

The water is what creates the flow. not the pressure. You run a pressure system with regular coolant to raise the boiling point.

Greg

Glycol based liquids store less heat than water. This is why you will see the temp come up faster.

Since our engine computer will start to shut the engine down at ~230deg, any possible advantage of it's higher boiling point it pretty much lost.

Essentially it's running 100% anti-freeze. And it's been known for a long time that doing that reduces the capacity of the cooling system. There is a real good reason they use water. If water was $28/gallon (call it chemical X) there would be people touting it's amazing ability to absorb and transfer heat. It's the best liquid known for doing that.

Want a good test? There are a few members on this board with cooling problems. Get them to test it. I have a pretty good feeling it will aggravate the problem.

There's no way I would run a system with no pressure on it. Oxygen intrusion will likely result in rust, corrosion and microbe/bacterria growth thus eventually darkening/thickening of the fluid. Pressure and water in a system serves to better transfer heat and keep the elements out. Thats why the larger and more expensive production systerms are charged with Nitrogen or Gas. To keep oxygen/elements out and reduce evaporation loss while increasing the boiling point.

There's no way I would run a system with no pressure on it. Oxygen intrusion will likely result in rust, corrosion and microbe/bacterria growth thus eventually darkening/thickening of the fluid. Pressure and water in a system serves to better transfer heat and keep the elements out. Thats why the larger and more expensive production systerms are charged with Nitrogen or Gas. To keep oxygen/elements out and reduce evaporation loss while increasing the boiling point.
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If in a really high humidity area this might be a problem. In that case Evans recommends running a pressure cap. But if not what little mosture is drawn in on cool down will be expled when heated back up.

If you do not want to run zero pressure just make sure you get the truck up to operating temp with the cap off. Then before shutting it down tighten the cap. You have now sealed the system and everything will be as before.

NPG+ does not develope the pressure that regular coolant does so it will not be under the same pressure. Amount of pressure so the system will still see less stress on hoses etc.

Dex Cool has done a lot of damage do to corrosion in the past and I don't see it changing for the better yet. On my 95 it did not have corrosion but hte amount of sludge I flushed out was terrible. Same goes for the 4.3L in the wifes Astro, but it caused leaks do to corrosion.

Greg;
What about McRat's comment about the ecm shuttin down at 230* ?? Doese EVANS run hotter than DexCool or does it just heat up faster and then level out? what is the typical EVANs eng temp? My turck runs 192-196* now in CO unless I am accel up a mountain then maybe 202*. I don't due towing.

Thanks.

All late model GM's have protection built-in to the PCM to detune the engine if the temp goes past a certain point. I believe it's 230 on the Dmax, but not 100% sure of the exact temp. You will get a warning, and if the temp doesn't drop, it will pull power.

Perhaps I'm wrong that the Evans fluid will supply less cooling potential. But after reading their site, they make zero mention of the specific heat of their coolant as compared to water. Surely they know what it is, it's a number you learn in HS chemistry, and is absolutely necessary to do calculation for cooling.

It sounds like a good idea if you increase your radiator size, but for stock trucks? I'd be hesistant.

Propylene glycol is non-toxic. That's the only advantage. Not much of an advantage for me since I prefer beer to engine coolant.

They've tried many coolants over the years, and still use 50/50 EG and water. The water is the coolant, the EG is there to reduce corrosion and lower freezing point.

They hype over other coolants like pure PG is making a resurgance thanks to the internet.

I live in Vegas, and mine is an 01 and im also looking at upgrading to a larger radiator. The average temp here in the middle of summer is 110-115 degrees and the humidity is somewhere around 30-35%. Should i be running a pressurized system or not?? I do drive pretty hard, and tow.

Brian

Its really a matter of choice. You will do fine either way.

Greg

Thanks for the tip -G-.
I think ill order sometime this week, and install with the new radiator as well. Its starting to warm up here pretty quickly, and id lie to have everything done before the real heat takes over.

Has anyone installed one of those flush kits offered by Prestone? It allows you to COMPLETELY flush your old fluid before installing new. I have used them on my old Toy trucks and 4Runner. Would it be a good idea to install on on the DMAX?