Need Help ASAP!

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I have a 2000, 3500 6.5L 4x4 and it won’t start. The solenoid clicks in to engage but the starter won’t turn. I have replaced the starter and solenoid, the batteries and the starter relay. It still won’t turn over. Is there something I am missing? Any help is appreciated; I will be calling for a tow truck tomorrow if I don’t come up with anything else to try. Thanks again.

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Eric.

RECheck all the connections at the battery mine did that too.

is there a particular connection that was loose on yours? The only one I am suspisious of is the double pos connection on the primary battery

All of them were corrodated bad clean and tighten them..

Fuseable link somewhere, there are several used on these truck and different locations for different trucks. Loose connections are always to be checked for as well as corroated ones. Are you sure the motor isn't "locked up". Hate to bring that up but just asking?

check for 12 volts at the starter on the cable from the battery check on the actual post coming out of the solenoid not the cableif there is a bad connection or a bad cable the starter solenoid will click but there because 12volts will be supplied to the s terminal but there may not be power at the big cable resulting in a click but no crank

Will check the volts at the starter. didn't thnik of that. The engine is not frozen, I was able to get a half turn off the main pully so I think that is ok. So iguess I need to start at the starter to see if its getting the right number of volts. If not are there any common fusable links that I might check?

check the ground also, it's just as important as the battery terminals themselves. if the starter motor is clicking, but not turning, it's getting juice, but not enough. go through all connections. it's most likely a simple fix...once you find it:rolleyes: .

can you roll the engine over with a ratchet on the alternator?

Yes, I am able to turn the engine over. Yes I am getting 12 volts off the battery and ignition(when engaged) still nothing but the solenoid engaging. Had the starter bench tested and it works fine. Put it back and and same problem. Lossen it up and remove it from the fly whell a couple of inches and it still will not work, just the clicking of the solenoid. Two new batteries and clean and tight connections, still nothing. Got to be electrical, just don't know where. Had it towed to a dealership yesterday. Would still love to here any ideas out there to see what the problem may be. This has been very informative, thanks to eveyone who posted. I will keep you updated when I get it back.

Eric.

Since you can hear the solenoid clicking, the small (possibly fused) wire is good. I suspect that the large cable that runs from the battery down to the starter has corroded away inside of the sheathing.

I've had this and it can be a loose connection on the starter solenoid or possibly resistance in the cable/bad connection.

When I had the loose connection on the solenoid it appeared tight but the starter would turn over when I touched the solenoid wire with my wife turning the key.

Maybe your tumbler is bad like mine. I"m not sure how/when it happened, but it hasn't worked since I owned the truck. I've got a push button under the dash now to start it.

you can trouble shoot your ground cable with a set of jumper cables. jump the negative post to the frame. you can also try positive post to the large wire connetion at the starter......this procedure is a little more risky because of clearance issues.

Do you see the inside dome light dim when you go to engage the starter? Tell tale sign of drawing the amount of juice needed to get starter going. No dimming, no current. Or, could be bad starter too.

Sounds like bad cables or connections. The solenoid clicking is only an indication that you have voltage, but you need amperage to turn the starter. Good Luck.

Ok, so far the dealer thinks it is bad cables. He said there is nothing in between that would prevent the starter from turning over other than the relay and that I determined was good. He is going to put new cables in Monday so I should know then. I would do it myself, but it would mean another tow and if the problem is still there then it would have to go back up. Oh well its only money (LOL). Any way thanks again for everyones advise. Wish I got the cable one a bit earlier, but such is life. The cables felt good but I guess you never know until you have a way to check the amps going through them. For future reference, does anyone know what that should be?

Eric.

pull the starter and have it bench tested, it could have siezed, no?

The best test for cables is a voltage drop. Place the positive lead of a voltmeter on the positive term of the batt and place the negative lead on the stud of the starter. Turn the key to start and look at the reading. Should be .2 volts. (.1v per connection) If it's more, there is high resistance from the batt to the starter. For the negative cable place the negative lead on the battery and the positive lead on the starter housing. Same voltage drop applies.

have him upgrade those wile he's replacing them , If he will

The best test for cables is a voltage drop. Place the positive lead of a voltmeter on the positive term of the batt and place the negative lead on the stud of the starter. Turn the key to start and look at the reading. Should be .2 volts. (.1v per connection) If it's more, there is high resistance from the batt to the starter. For the negative cable place the negative lead on the battery and the positive lead on the starter housing. Same voltage drop applies.
I've noticed on my scantool that circuits like the glows and gp relay go down to .2-.1v after the glows cycle. Is this an accurate measure of voltage drop on these?

That depends on where the scan tool is getting the voltage data from. If you are seeing the voltage when they are done cycling then it's not a voltage drop.

Here is an article that explains voltage drop testing better than I can.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0401_elec/index1.html

Just an update as promised. i got my truck back yesterday and it was the battery cables. A bit pricey, but it is fixed. Thanks again to everyone for their ideas, as always this site is very helpful and informative.

Eric.