A while back I started laking a little oil. A couple of days ago it started to almost dump oil. I would find quite a large puddle under the front drivers side of the truck. It seemed to drip from the front seal. I started to replace the seal and got to the HB and it is clean. It appears there is a LOT of oil on the motor and the 2 lines running on the drivers side of the motor. I am assuming I have an oil line leak. My oil pressure hasn't dropped but the oil level sure has, and quickly too. Is this indicative of oil line leak? If so, what do i need to know to change these lines. Any tricks etc would help. If this could be anything else please let me know. I am going to run it up on ramps tomorrow & remove the skid plate etc & have a better look.

PS Thanx for the help and advice for changing the front seal:o:

I replaced mine not to long ago, read a lot on hear about people having problems using oem replacements, went and got a kit from lubrication specialists for 225 us and was very easy to put on. Has all the fittings necessary. Would recommend it if thats whats wrong.

go with the lube specialists kit. Its not that difficult installation wise. the hardest part was removing all the old stuff when i installed my kit.

the kit comes with a brand new oil cooler, all the fittings needed for install, and the stainless braided cooler lines. The instructions say to use teflon paste on the connections. I used Indian Head Gasket/Fitting Shellac and have 0 leaks from them.

go with the lube specialists kit. Its not that difficult installation wise. the hardest part was removing all the old stuff when i installed my kit.

the kit comes with a brand new oil cooler, all the fittings needed for install, and the stainless braided cooler lines. The instructions say to use teflon paste on the connections. I used Indian Head Gasket/Fitting Shellac and have 0 leaks from them.

Does anyone know what the Canadian equivilent is & cost?

you mean shipping wise?

you mean shipping wise?

I was hoping to get one in Canada. with the Can dollar as it is & border duty & shipping It will likely be over $450.00 by the time I get it:(

DORMAN Products have replacement lines for abut $ 30/40.00 each from discount part stores in the US. I have a set on sig truck with over 100.000 miles. I removed them when I got the truck, drilled,tapped one set screw into each. Installed NEW Gm wire snap rings.Fit is proper .Save money!!!

DORMAN Products have replacement lines for abut $ 30/40.00 each from discount part stores in the US. I have a set on sig truck with over 100.000 miles. I removed them when I got the truck, drilled,tapped one set screw into each. Installed NEW Gm wire snap rings.Fit is proper .Save money!!!

I am a little confused about your installation. where did you drill, tap & install set screw? & the new snap ring goes where? Will I see this as obvious when I get the lines?

DORMAN Products have replacement lines for abut $ 30/40.00 each from discount part stores in the US. I have a set on sig truck with over 100.000 miles. I removed them when I got the truck, drilled,tapped one set screw into each. Installed NEW Gm wire snap rings.Fit is proper .Save money!!!


the factory lines and those little spring/snap clips are known to fail. I wouldn't put factory lines back on a truck, especially if his factory lines are leaking now. The set screw isn't a bad idea. I'd like to see pictures of this if you have any.

On a side note, the GM factory, or dorman replacements that are identical, is like playing russian roulette with your engine. It's not a matter of if they will fail, its a matter of when. Honestly the extra for the lube specialist kit is worth it. With the OP being in canada and shipping prices i can see why he's not 100% for them as they'd cost him a boatload.

You can make your own lines for less. I'd stay far far away from the factory lines. Mine had 160K+ on them when the started leaking a little out of the blue. I pulled the old lines off and the crimp connectors were so flimsy looking i'm still wondering what was holding them together.

the factory lines and those little spring/snap clips are known to fail. I wouldn't put factory lines back on a truck, especially if his factory lines are leaking now. The set screw isn't a bad idea. I'd like to see pictures of this if you have any.

On a side note, the GM factory, or dorman replacements that are identical, is like playing russian roulette with your engine. It's not a matter of if they will fail, its a matter of when. Honestly the extra for the lube specialist kit is worth it. With the OP being in canada and shipping prices i can see why he's not 100% for them as they'd cost him a boatload.

You can make your own lines for less. I'd stay far far away from the factory lines. Mine had 160K+ on them when the started leaking a little out of the blue. I pulled the old lines off and the crimp connectors were so flimsy looking i'm still wondering what was holding them together.

thanx for the concideration

I have 360000Km on the truck now. Methinks that anything that lasts another 100K Km would outlast the truck;):D

I was under the impression that these lines would screw on. Are they just held in place with the snap ring?

go with the lube specialists kit. Its not that difficult installation wise. the hardest part was removing all the old stuff when i installed my kit.

the kit comes with a brand new oil cooler, all the fittings needed for install, and the stainless braided cooler lines. The instructions say to use teflon paste on the connections. I used Indian Head Gasket/Fitting Shellac and have 0 leaks from them.


What all has to come off besides the lines?

There is a quick connect on them where they attach to the engine. The quick connect uses a really flimsy wire retainer to hold the lines on. The problem with the factory style lines is the way the hose is attached to the tube. There is only a very small groove in the tube that the crimp connector squezzes the rubber into. I've boughten new oil cooler lines from the stealer and had them start to weep oil within 3 months. I paid over$200 for those lines 10 years ago. The aluminum tubing is also very poor quality as are the fittings.
The lubrication specalist kit is all top quality parts. It will outlast the truck.
Another thing to think about is if one of the oil cooler lines blows going down the highway you will not be able to shut it down before serious engine damage occures.
I believe DSG makes a oil cooler line set up. They are in canada.

The OEM lines are adequate, used by GM and most other brands, with external engine oil coolers.

Heat and oil eventually cause the neoprene hose to deteriorate, harden and eventually weep at the crimp connections.

This is to be expected at high mileage.

No doubt DSG and lube specialist are much better, but at about 4X the price of OE.

If you decide to replace with OEM, a set can be bought at NAPA for just over a hundred CDN, includes new clips, and will likely last as long as your previous set, although not forever. If you buy them now you also get a hat.

They are not particularly difficult to replace, you have to remove oil filter adapter (on 4x4) to access the connection at the block, and the grill in front to disconnect the lines from the bottom of the cooler.

Old lines can be sawn, cut, broken to remove, in pieces, new ones should be left in one piece, and routed as the old ones.

Small bracket near rear of engine block secures lines in position, very important that it is re-installed, I suspect any horror stories about oil cooler lines blowing out of the block, may not have had the bracket installed.

The wire clip must be installed so the 3 indents engage in the slots in the block fittings, and the groove in the line, there are pictures on here somewhere, but pretty straightforward.

Cheapest way to do it here in canada is to pull the old ones, walk into princess auto and tell em to make this for ya. Just make sure you remove the fitting that threads into the engine and bring that too, cuz they don't have any snap ring fittings (you want to get rid of that anyways). The threaded fitting is like 1/2 or 5/8"NPT.

Thanx to all who helped. I do appreciate it

Joe

The OEM lines are adequate, used by GM and most other brands, with external engine oil coolers.

Heat and oil eventually cause the neoprene hose to deteriorate, harden and eventually weep at the crimp connections.

This is to be expected at high mileage.

No doubt DSG and lube specialist are much better, but at about 4X the price of OE.

If you decide to replace with OEM, a set can be bought at NAPA for just over a hundred CDN, includes new clips, and will likely last as long as your previous set, although not forever. If you buy them now you also get a hat.

They are not particularly difficult to replace, you have to remove oil filter adapter (on 4x4) to access the connection at the block, and the grill in front to disconnect the lines from the bottom of the cooler.

Old lines can be sawn, cut, broken to remove, in pieces, new ones should be left in one piece, and routed as the old ones.

Small bracket near rear of engine block secures lines in position, very important that it is re-installed, I suspect any horror stories about oil cooler lines blowing out of the block, may not have had the bracket installed.

The wire clip must be installed so the 3 indents engage in the slots in the block fittings, and the groove in the line, there are pictures on here somewhere, but pretty straightforward.


Id have to agree with you on this. I bought a set of lines from NAPA over the winter to replace mine. Like you said, not as nice as the lube specialist but a heck of alot cheaper. The origional ones lasted 112K and they were just starting to weep. And as for the installation, they were a piece of cake. My grill didnt have to come off (mine had the work truck grill), and i didnt have to remove the oil filter adapter. The old lines snaked right out and the new ones went right in.

You mentioned the bracket towards the rear of the engine...is this the plastic piece the holds the lines in place or am i missing something?

You mentioned the bracket towards the rear of the engine...is this the plastic piece the holds the lines in place or am i missing something?

There is a metal bracket bolted to the exhaust manifold with 2 bolts just above the exhaust outlet at the rear of the engine, The lines are held to that bracket with a 10 mm bolt through a clip coated with vinyl, or some sort of rubber.

There is also a plastic clip on the inner fender well, but the one at the rear is all metal and clamps the aluminum tubing.

Looks like this...


http://i42.tinypic.com/fn77dz.jpg

Do you have the NAPA part no. or do they have to fab one for you?

Is the oil filter adapter held on wirh one large bolt?

Is the oil filter adapter held on wirh one large bolt?

Yes it is, I replaced mine without having to remove it though.

Chickenhunterbob...thanks for the picture..that has deff gone missing on my truck somewhere over the years. Guess im gonna have to track one down.

NAPA can get you the correct hoses without having to custom make anything

Shipping via USPS is around $30 and you then don't have brokerage fees. So $225 plus $30 plus exchange would total about $325 cnd. OEM or equivalent are a waste of time and money.

Greg

I have a 1995 chevy 6.5td and it has been leaking in the front of the motor but it seems to be coming from under my bumper my dad said it may be the air to air for my turbo or lines or something can anyone help.

I have a 1995 chevy 6.5td and it has been leaking in the front of the motor but it seems to be coming from under my bumper my dad said it may be the air to air for my turbo or lines or something can anyone help.


More than likely the leak is at the hard line to rubber joint.

Greg

I have a 1996 3500HD (15,gave) I looked around on here and can't figure out how to remove my grill. The 3500HD has an extra vent skirt below the grill. It looks like it could just slide apart where they join...but they won't.

I'm glad I read this post about the lousy new lines. I think I'll have some custom made at the local hydraulic hose place

I am thinking about putting new oil cooler lines and a new oil cooler on my Suburban in the near future. I have read that some folks arn't having to take the filter adapter off? Also does one have to drain all the oil out of the engine before doing this project?

I am thinking about putting new oil cooler lines and a new oil cooler on my Suburban in the near future. I have read that some folks arn't having to take the filter adapter off? Also does one have to drain all the oil out of the engine before doing this project?

I have heard people being able to do it without taking the filter adapter off, but believe me... it is much easier when you take it off. You may want to replace all the o-rings for the adapter as well.

You do NOT have to drain your oil before replacing oil cooler/lines. You will want a catch pan under there with you though as there will be oil in the lines and the cooler.

When I did mine, I replaced the cooler and lines then changed my oil, cranked a little bit, then started.

Okay thanks, I just changed my oil and filter yesterday with Amsoil before I noticed that my oil cooler lines didn't look that good. I was hoping that I wouldn't loose all my oil once I took the lines off or the filter adapter off.