on my 94 in my sig i twisted my long shaft and wanted to know if a 1500 long shaft would work till i can aford to buy a new one

It depends on what size the U-joints are on it. Measure them and see if they are the same or not. I know GM liked to mix and match different sized U-joints. I assume because you said long shaft, that you have a two-piece rear drive shaft. If so, how do you know you didn't twist the front shorter shaft as well?

the real thing that happened i was putting my truck on a trailer and the truck spit the ramps out from under the truck and droped it on the trailer and bent the long drive shaft. and your right it is a 2 piece shaft

The 1/2 ton shaft most likely has smaller u-joints. For temporary use just cut off the ends of the bent shaft and have a new tube welded in. Who knows, it may be just as good as new and you may not need a new one. I build driveshafts for my off-road trucks all the time.

the real thing that happened i was putting my truck on a trailer and the truck spit the ramps out from under the truck and droped it on the trailer and bent the long drive shaft. and your right it is a 2 piece shaft

Ouch! Not sure if they changed U-joints by 1994 or not, but if they are not metric or anything like that, they are probably 1310 series U-joints, and possibly 1330 series U-joints. The shafts should be physically the same length, or close enough that the splines will make up for the difference. The last two piece drive shaft I pulled apart was a pain in the ass to remove the rear shaft from the front short one. If you have problems just ask, I have a trick to get them apart now.

The 1/2 ton shaft most likely has smaller u-joints. For temporary use just cut off the ends of the bent shaft and have a new tube welded in. Who knows, it may be just as good as new and you may not need a new one. I build driveshafts for my off-road trucks all the time.

Ouch! Not sure if they changed U-joints by 1994 or not, but if they are not metric or anything like that, they are probably 1310 series U-joints, and possibly 1330 series U-joints. The shafts should be physically the same length, or close enough that the splines will make up for the difference. The last two piece drive shaft I pulled apart was a pain in the ass to remove the rear shaft from the front short one. If you have problems just ask, I have a trick to get them apart now.

Buying a new Driveshaft if you have a reputable local ( or even not so local) driveline shop is a waste of money, a retube with new U-joints and a re-balance should run you less than $300, and both portions of the two piece driveshaft need to be balanced together. The cheapest way out is finding a used shaft that is the correct series and length. A half ton shaft would be either 1330(Spicer 5-213x) series or 1350(5-178X) series. The 1330 series shafts have a conversion (also called jump joint) joint in the rear(5-212x) as the end yoke on the differentials take a Saginaw 44 series joint. The easiest way to tell the difference at a glance is that the conversion joint in the back of the 1330 series shaft will have snap-rings on the caps that hold it in place when bolted to the rear end yoke.

Well stated, just what i was getting at. I would still bet the 1/2 ton has the 1310/1330 joint and being a diesel 3/4 ton the shaft should have 1350's. I dont know if i would waste the time with 1310/1330 joints due to the added torque of the diesel. I myself have always had good luck with 1310 for strength but they were behind gassers. I beleive the 1330 is just a 1310 with a longer cross if i remember right.

Well stated, just what i was getting at. I would still bet the 1/2 ton has the 1310/1330 joint and being a diesel 3/4 ton the shaft should have 1350's. I dont know if i would waste the time with 1310/1330 joints due to the added torque of the diesel. I myself have always had good luck with 1310 for strength but they were behind gassers. I beleive the 1330 is just a 1310 with a longer cross if i remember right.

Believe it or not, I forgot he had a diesel :D 1330 joints, but most likely 1350's. I bought a used 2 piece drive shaft with 1350's for $50 CDN. Try posting a wanted ad locally too.

Well stated, just what i was getting at. I would still bet the 1/2 ton has the 1310/1330 joint and being a diesel 3/4 ton the shaft should have 1350's. I dont know if i would waste the time with 1310/1330 joints due to the added torque of the diesel. I myself have always had good luck with 1310 for strength but they were behind gassers. I beleive the 1330 is just a 1310 with a longer cross if i remember right.

Yes, 1310 and 1330 are the same cap size and a different lock up dimension. However, i cant say as though ive ever seen a 1310 series joint in a full size chevy from 88 up. And while i myself wouldnt put anything smaller than 1350 series parts in a diesel p/u, it could be the cheaper way out for some. I however have the advantage of working in a driveline shop with a rather large selection of spicer and neapco parts. Ive seen people do all kinds of wacky crap to save money, jump joints, building driveshafts out of iron pipe, peening the splines on loose slip yokes etc. Another big one i see is irritated customers who have had 3 different parts stores sell them the wrong u-joint, super common because with the 1330 series shafts the joint that mates with the rear end is a jump joint and most folks dont realize it.