Frank Blum
04-18-2005, 11:12 PM
A couple weeks ago I had a little puddle of antifreeze under the truck just below the radiator hose. I was sure the hose was the problem after tightening the clamp over two turns. Two days later I found another puddle and traced the source to the pump weep hole. It was on a week end. I planned to take it in on Monday for show and tell. No leak on Monday or since. I have worked on a lot of pumps of all types over the years and know they don't usually get better. I have seen a couple small blocks with very dirty fluid leak and quit. My fluid is 3 1/2 years old so I have decided to change it just to see if it helps. I can not find a procedure on this forum. I no there is a problem getting the air out. I want to change all the anti not just the radiator. Can someone post a procedure? Thanks. Later! Frank
ag4gt
04-19-2005, 09:25 AM
Coolant Change<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
With the engine cool, open the radiator drain valve. The valve is located on the passenger side at the bottom of the radiator tank. The valve is a plastic o-ring sealed valve and should be finger tight.
A block drain plug is located on the driver’s side of the engine. It is about 3 inches in front of the motor mount, at about the center level of the motor mount. It requires a 17 MM wrench. Open the block drain plug. The drain plug is gasket sealed.
Open the coolant reservoir cap.
Open the thermostat housing vent plug. It requires a 12 MM wrench.
Disconnect the heater hose located just above the fuel filter.
After the coolant has drained, flush the system as required until only clean water comes out. It is helpful to us compressed air to get more coolant out then will drain on it own.
After flushing, reinstall the block drain plug and the radiator tank drain plug. Be sure to use antisieze and check the gasket on the block drain plug.
Reconnect the heater hose.
Add 3 gallons of Dexcool coolant to the coolant reservoir tank.
The system should take all 3 gallons without coolant coming out of the thermostat housing vent plughole.
Add about 1 and ¾ gallons of water. After about 1 and ¾ gallon has been added coolant will start coming out of the thermostat vent hole.
Install the thermostat vent plug. Be sure to check the gasket and use anti-seize.
Finish filling the coolant reservoir.
mightyvh
04-19-2005, 09:40 AM
Frank, Here is a post from Makin when he did it ( did a seach on radiator ). It seems that you are suppose to cycle the RPM"s up and down to get the Air out. AG4GT's looks good
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14613&highlight=radiator
I think most are believers in using distilled water to refill with the anti freeze. Walmart has it for about 59 cents a gallon where I live.......Bill
StraitDiesel
04-19-2005, 09:57 AM
Ok I need an edjumacatem lesson... why use distilled water over tap water?
Dan
Mitchagain
04-19-2005, 10:20 AM
Ok I need an edjumacatem lesson... why use distilled water over tap water?
DanDistilled water has no hard water contaminates that will build up inside the engine block.
Forced Induction
04-19-2005, 10:27 AM
I think you need to be careful with distilled water in cast iron blocks. Because DI water is "mineral deficient" it is looking to pick up all the minerals it can, which means it can actually eat the block to some degree. However since it will be in an antifreeze mix it may not be a problem. Never had this happen, but then again I never used DI water for cooling systems either.
Oh, BTW, My water pump was changed out at 10k. The original design had the standard weep hole, new pump.....weep hole gone!!:rolleyes:
packfan
04-19-2005, 12:22 PM
I agree with forced induction. I would use "filtered water" or distilled water mixed with a little spring water.
Frank Blum
04-19-2005, 07:11 PM
Thanks for all the data. Exactly what I wanted. I spent three years on a carrier for the Navy during the Nam era. We distilled all the ships water with evaporators to 99. something pure to keep it from rusting/corroding our systems. We did not, at that time frame, add anything to the closed loop cooling systems for our diesels. Any system open to the atmosphere is a different story. Thanks again guys. Later! Frank
keith_2500hd
04-19-2005, 08:43 PM
i agree with forced induction, mid 80's went to cummin's school and they tested cooling system erosion and that is exactly what they told us. said to use purified or filtered water to remove excess contaminents.
Diesel Dragon
04-19-2005, 08:52 PM
If you buy CAT Extended life coolant or maybe other type's also, you can buy it prediluted already.
That way mixture is right and I'm sure there using the proper water.
duramaxdiesel
04-20-2005, 11:19 PM
you tried putting the pressure pump to the coolant bottle? I did that and found mine was leaking from the seal. Just my $.02