I'm considering the Amsoil dual bypass oil filter set up. I've already got a CAT pre OEM fuel filter. If everything else holds together, I'd like to drive the Dmax 400K miles. Right now I'm putting on 20K per year, but that may increase. I've read that with the oil bypass filters, there is very little wear on the engine. Since its only $175, seems like it should be worth it.


What are your opinoins? Is it worth OK?


Thanks.

I like oilguard. Simpler and easier to work on and cheaper to service. They have a new adapter for the Duramax also that may not be on their website. Call and ask for Mark Meddock, very helpful. SPICERhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Arlen,


Glad to see you've made it over here. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

There is something MUCH better than the AMS on the horizon. I figure it to be on the market within the next couple of months. I recommend that you wait for it...


I ran the AMS, if you would like some feedback on it, shoot me a PM or email.








Ox

Im running the oilguard filter kit. I broke one of the stock hose kits by overtightening it. So I had a local Napa make up some 5000psi hydraulic lines as the hoses. I feel safer too.

After seeing a guy here had a clean dipstick (gold oil) after 3k miles I made the choice. It filters to 1 micron.

The military uses oilguard on some vehicles.

At 7k I installed Amsoil dual remote setup, and I don't knoww how anything could be any easier to service! I inslalled just to rear of stock filter location, fabricating a bracket to fasten to floor pan after removal of a small shield that was there. the filters hang straght down and can easily be filled before installing. The hoses are only about 12" long, and now at 12k the Amsoil 5W-30 synnthetic diesel oil is only slightly darker than when installed.

dirty old man, How did you mount it to keep from getting the pump harmonics resonating through the cab. I had mine mounted and after a couple hundred miles removed it as the noise was driving me nuts. I was thinking of mounting it back arounf the fuel cooler area and running some high psi hose fwd? Idea's and comments greatly appreciated. AkDually61

I mounted my Amsoil BK17 on the frame by the original filter using the bracket supplied buy Greg Landuyt at Lubespecialist. Worked great. No vibration. Lines about 12" long.

Mr. Victory Red, I guess I was lost and then found! I was wondering where all the regulars went on TDP!! I am so busy in the fall cutting down trees that I missed the transition! Anyway, I wanted to contact you about an idea I have....I will look for your number but if you can call me soon. SPICERhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif

Cool Arlen, I need some more firewood http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif. Anyhow I PM'd you with my numbers so if I can't find yours, you can't find mine.


This place just seems a lot more friendly and open. I don't want to start another I hate thread though, but I'm having more fun here.

At 7k I installed Amsoil dual remote setup, and I don't knoww how anything could be any easier to service! I inslalled just to rear of stock filter location, fabricating a bracket to fasten to floor pan after removal of a small shield that was there. the filters hang straght down and can easily be filled before installing. The hoses are only about 12" long, and now at 12k the Amsoil 5W-30 synnthetic diesel oil is only slightly darker than when installed.

Basically the same here, only I run the 15w-40.
I have a custom bracket mounted to the frame too.
Never heard of the vibrations mentioned above....

Also, there's nothing to prevent you from running
BOTH oilgardand& the Amsoil BMK-17 at the same
time... ;)

I just don't care for either of the oilguard
return hose solutions (pan plug or filler cap)
so I chose the dualguard.

good luck,

T.

moved--off topic--sorry.


JoshEdited by: GMCSLEHD

I did pick up a slight whine, more noticeable at cold oil temps. I figure I'm hearing the oil pump, since the bracket I built is bolted right to floor pan.


A bracket bolted to frame would alleviate this due to factory isolators between frame and body. But the bracket is complicated immensely by the longtitudal running torsion bar. The day may come when I take the time to build such a bracket, or check into the one mentioned above. But for now, I just tune out the whine and turn up stereo!

I did pick up a slight whine, more noticeable at cold oil temps. I figure I'm hearing the oil pump, since the bracket I built is bolted right to floor pan.


A bracket bolted to frame would alleviate this due to factory isolators between frame and body. But the bracket is complicated immensely by the longtitudal running torsion bar. The day may come when I take the time to build such a bracket, or check into the one mentioned above. But for now, I just tune out the whine and turn up stereo!

Torsion bar clearace is why we built my bracket
with the BMK-17 mounted at an angle instead
of at 90 to the frame. Here's some pics of it;
Bracket (http://207.53.239.181/~terry/truck/Amsoil-BMK17/)

hope this helps,

T.

Pardon my ignorance but what benefit does that bypass filtering have? Is it simply a better filter, i.e., tigher mesh or something else?





Thanks

Bypass filtering is in addition to full flow filtering. The full flow filter filters all the oil all the time before it reachs the engine after coming from the oil pump {unless it's loaded up and opens up the internal bypass}. As a consequence, it can only catch particles dowm to about 20-30 microns,and the smaller stuff goes on thru bearings, etc.


Bypass filter only filters part of the oil, but at a much finer degree, down to as small as 1-2 microns. Since the oil is constantly ciculating thru this bypass filter, it does filter all the oil evry few minutes of run time, and the cumulative result is a much cleaner oil.


Terry, appreciate your [pics of bracket, but I can't visuallize just how it fits and positions the filters, please elaborate.


I could have mounted the Amsoil filter base to side of frame rail sideways as some have done. But then you can't prefill the filters, as they are horizontal,and I don't like the idea of the engine running long enough to pump approx 3 qts. oil into filters on initial startup after filter change.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/F7Z_IMG_0449.JPGUsing the Landuyt bracket on the Amsoil head the filters are vertical. Best picture I have of the bracket right now.Edited by: Ragtop

Bypass filter only filters part of the oil, but at a much finer degree, down to as small as 1-2 microns. Since the oil is constantly ciculating thru this bypass filter, it does filter all the oil evry few minutes of run time, and the cumulative result is a much cleaner oil. ....


...I don't like the idea of the engine running long enough to pump approx 3 qts. oil into filters on initial startup after filter change.


Excellent Bypass filter explanation!
Also, regarding pre-filling filters, I also like to pre-fill mine. But, If I’m not mistaken the engine oil flow is from sump to bearings then to the filter. So, if the filter takes a few seconds to fill it shouldn’t keep oil from getting to the bearings fast.

I modified my Landuyt bracket to center the cartridges (vertical) between the torsion bar and front drive shaft and also raised the filters up as high as possible without contacting the floorpan. Been real happy with mine - and just got another excellent analysis report on my 75K oil drain. Pictures are in the Pics link in my signature below.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/741_filter01.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ECC_filter02.jpgEdited by: Idle_Chatter

Thanks for the explanations on why a bypass filter is better. Now it makes sense

Thanks for the pics Tom,looks good. I may try fabricating something similar after all the holiday hoopla is over and done. I believe your setup is stouter and more secure than mine over the long haul, and should eliminate that oil pump whine from being audible inside cab.


When I set up the bracket I'm using now I was also trying to get done in a hurry as I had other things to do while preparing for a 3 week trip with Duramax and travel trailer.

Regarding by-pass filtration. I can highly recommend the Harvard by-pass filter as I have reviewed several spectro/particle counts/ferrographies for Duramax engines Harvard equipped and the results are the cleanest/best I have seen for not only a Duramax but frankly any diesel engine.
Harvard Filters have been around for years but have marketed primarily to industrial and commercial only thus making installations a major project. I believe John Kennedy is working on a ready to install kit complete with hardware.
As I mentioned, I have reviewed just about every iteration of by-pass filter on the market and nothing approaches the performance of the Harvard on the Duramax.. The Ferrography slides were virtually without contaminants and the particle counts were better than NASA specs for high pressure hydraulic oil... And in JK's case, the engine was certainly not babied..
I do not know the timing for the if/when Harvard complete kit availability but I will be one of the first in line to purchase one for my Duramax....
George Morrison

No problem, dirty. The basic bracket is one sold by Greg Landuyt, the Lube Specialist. I trimmed the upper leg back about 1-1/2" and redrilled the 4 holes to center better between the torsion bar and front shaft (the original mounting was okay, just further towards the center of the truck and closer to the drive shaft). You can see the extra plate that I sandwiched to the bracket to raise it. That plate is actually the upper part of the mounting bracket supplied with the Amsoil Dual Remote that is hooked over the top of the frame rail. I originally mounted my dual remote to the aluminum shield plate on the floor pan in that area. Got a terribly loud "woooooo" flow noise and vibration in the floorpan in that mounting, even after foaming the air gap between the plate and the pan with urethane expanding foam. The filters as mounted now are very sturdy, dead vertical and there's plenty of clearance for servicing by just laying down alongside the driver's door and poking my head and arms under the frame rail. Griffin, eh? I've been to Griffin many times to shoot sporting clays at Cherokee Rose. Stayed many nights at the Griffin Holiday Inn and had dinner at Manhattan Steak House.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

George,





Thanks for the kind words. Like my Mega hardware, this kit will be fully anodized so we won't see rust like in Idle Chatter's pics. The fittings are push lock, but as an added measure of security, I am adding an Oetticker double ear clamp. These clamps basically are a one shot deal that can be crimped with a CV boot plier or very carefully with an end nips/side cutter.





Mounting will need to be horizontal for the long unit, although the short one can be mounted vertical.





Oil is fed from a spin on adapter that goes between the OEM filter and it's mount. The OEM filter then spins onto this adapter basically spaced 1" from it's original location.


Feed comes from, and returns to this adapter, so basically we are relying on differential of pressure across the filter AND ensuring no additional psi drop from removing the OE unit.


Pretty close to release, just waiting on hose, and to size the clamps as well as a support clamp for those who want to mount to the underside of the cab (no noise problems) and heat shield.








jbplock,


Was it you that had a link to pressure drop concerns over remotely mounted full flow filters? After thinking about it, taking all of our engine oil through an approximately 1/2" hose, dropping pressure there, then dropping across the filter(s) and dropping even further in the return hose, this could well be a valid concern...

Rust? that's not rust! that's an exceptionally adherent protective oxide coating!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif The Lube Specialist bracket is powder-coated steel - most of the visible rust is from my welds with my cheapie flux-wire MIG. I'm afraid that they are not only rusty, but pretty ugly too! Been planning to upgrade to a Hobart gas MIG and go over my flux-wire uglies with some gas-shielded stainless passes (especially on the stainless adapter to pipe welds on my Magnaflow mufflerectomy) but it will require getting a 220 line run to the garage in my rented house - something that the landlord might appreciate but won't pay for.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

John,


Was this the link you were looking for? BOBISTHEOILGUY Filter Tests (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000513)


If you work through the 9 pages of posts there is a discussion regarding pressure drop and the AMSOIL dual remote setup.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

I wouldn't want 3 ft. hoses on a remote oil filter setup, but I don't believe the short hoses required to mount a remote filter setup like Amsoil's is going to be a problem.


Race cars, oval track, road racers, Indy cars, & dragsters, all have used remote mounted oil filters for years.


And when was the last time you took your Duramax out and turned it 10,000 rpm all afternoon?

John,


Was this the link you were looking for? BOBISTHEOILGUY Filter Tests (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000513)


If you work through the 9 pages of posts there is a discussion regarding pressure drop and the AMSOIL dual remote setup.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif








Thanks Bill. Page 4 it is. 40psi in = approx 13 psi out!





Now this is cold flow etc, and they overlooked the concept of using a GM application filter w/o a bypass, but I gotta raise an eyebrow to this!








I did not take time to read this or see what they figured the data meant, but excessive pressure drop is NOT what I want...Edited by: Kennedy

... excessive pressure drop is NOT what I want...


DITTOS!

The full flow filter used on the Amsoil setup as supplied from Amsoil is about 2 or 3 times the size of the peanut filter shown in that test.


Sort of like comparing apples and oranges.


Idle chatter, did you get my PM, or did I manage to lose it in cyberspace?

What I would like to know about the new system is how often you change each of the filters. I am especially interested in The Kennedy system George was referring to. I run Delvac 1 now that I get from george. I switched to that at 3k, then changed at 6k, and I plan to change again at 10k. After that I would like to have the dual system and extend my drain intervals if possible. I drive 3-5k a month this time of year.

BlueMax, I run my oil and filters on a 7,500 mile schedule. I change oil and the full-flow every 7,500. I change the bypass every other change, or at 15,000 miles. Been getting very good analysis results on this schedule.

I've been running 7k service intervals, and aside from some fuel dilution dropping the viscosity (read as running BIG fueling and lots of smoke) I'm good to go for another 3-7k. Adding the Filtermag on the OE full flow was also good for another huge reduction in particle counts...





The size of the Amsoil filter is irrelevant except in dirt holding and flow capacity. The pressure drop is excessive, and quite likely due to the differential pressure valve not allowing good flow, OR the hose size AND as a hydraulic engineer pointed out 90° right angle fittings.

Well, I feel comfortable that my bearings and vital engine parts are getting the oil that they need because my indicated pressure is good. I also have only straight fittings in my install (no nineties) and about 18 to 20" of hose in each direction. I'll have to dig out the manuals and look into the actual oil circuit before I "panic" and run out there and unhook my dual remote - especially after more than a year and over 30 thousand miles with it and excellent oil analyses to boot!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif Edited by: Idle_Chatter

My opinion is change oil/filter more often than schedule calls for. You can tell how often by getting you oil tested once in the while. I don't see what good dual filters do . You shouldn't let the filter get so dirty so as to force it to bypass unfiltered oil.

Pressure can be good on gauge, and not so good elsewhere. Not saying it is, but you never know.





Bill, not sure if you understand the concept of bypass filtration, but it has nothing to do with the oil filter's bypass valve.





The reality is, that at 7k, my oil is as clean/cleaner than most anybody's immediately after servicing.

Regarding John Kennedy's statement "The reality is, that at 7k, my oil is as clean/cleaner than most anybody's immediately after servicing". John's Delvac 1 ISO cleanliness of 13/12/8 is actually 3 to 4 TIMES cleaner than new diesel oil right out of the bottle! New engine oil generally runs in the 18/16/14 ISO cleanliness level, with some as high as 21/19/17 ISO. Probably 8 times cleaner than normal 5,000 mile used oil. John's oil cleanliness is incredible for used engine oil. His Delvac 1 is cleaner than the oil specification for NASA high pressure hydraulic systems..
Both his particle count and ferrography results were the best I have ever reviewed for a diesel engine that was running.. And John by no means babies his engine...
The combination of everything John has done has resulted in a supremely clean, low wear engine. At this point those components are the UNI air filter, Delvac 1 engine oil, Harvard 750 series by-pass oil filter along with the Filtermag on his oil filter.
George

George,





I keep thinking that I'll have to drop my truck off and let you run the next 7k on it and do the sampling yourself just to verify! I guess if I can get you a kit you can set yours up and in all liklihood duplicate or even better my results...

JK, is your new setup a full flow deal, or a bypass steup? I just got my truck Sat. and this sounds very interesting.

John,


Just curious ... Where did you take your sample? Was it from the pan when doing an oil change or do you have a sample port on your filter head?


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Kennedy, how long before your system will be available ? And are the filters a stock filter or something that has to be ordered. I need to get over to see Eric soon to get a pre OEM fuel filter installed. It sure would be nice if I could kill two birds with one stone and eat a few mini vans on the way http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

JK, I don't want to start a flame but the tone of your response to my comment about filter size leaves me no choice but to respond.


First off, you contradicted yourself when you stated that filter size was irrelevant to the pressure of Amsoil setup and that filter size only related to dirt capacity and FLOW CAPACITY.


You don't have to be a hydraulic engineer or a rocket scientist to understand that the increased FLOW CAPACITY brought on by INCREASED SIZE will mean less of a pressure drop with the same rate of oil passage. Yes, SIZE IS RELEVANT. Also I believe that rather amateurish setup used a GM filter with no bypass, thereby not allowing the oil that couldn't flow through that SMALL FILTERto bypass thus contributing to pressure drop.


As in many things, SIZE MATTERS!!!


And also you can tell your hydraulic engineer that there are no 90 deg fittings in an Amsoil setup on a Duramax, just on that Mickey Mouse test setup.

Well, I've done some reading in the Service Manuals and it confirms my belief that the filter is on the LOW PRESSURE side of the lubrication circuit. Oil is picked up from the lower oil pan by the oil pump which then supplies pressurized oil to the lubrication galleries and passages in the block and heads. This pressurized system provides the vital lubrication to the critical moving parts and is monitored by the oil pressure sensor/gauge/warning light. IF YOU HAVE GOOD INDICATED OIL PRESSURE, YOU HAVE GOOD ENGINE LUBRICATION. Oil flows from most of the lubricated components to return passages that converge at the filter/cooler mounting. Residual (i.e. low side) lubrication pressure moves the oil through the filter before it is returned to the oil pan to repeat the circuit. Pressure loss across the filter is a moot point unless it results in starvation of the oil pickup in the lower pan (some return oil bypasses the filter from the crankshaft and piston cooling, and maybe the turbo). As long as the dual remote filter setup is flowing oil through both filters, it is doing it's job and the system is operating as designed. "Backpressure" on this lubrication circuit would have the POSITIVE effect of MAINTAINING positive lubrication pressure on the galleries and components! I read some of the hysterical rantings on the "Bob is the Oil Guy" thread regarding the Amsoil dual remote and I reiterate that I'm happy with mine and will continue to operate it for the life of my truck! That's my last rant for 2003, Happy Holidays! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifEdited by: Idle_Chatter

Dirty old man,





The truth is, that SAME full flow filter was tested on the std setup, and had nowhere near that kind of drop. By using this same element on this setup, it shows that the throughput flow is not as good with an equal flowing element.


The reality is, the hose used is only 13/32" diameter. That's a bit small for such a run. SOME guys use 90° fittings depending on application (6.5l) and as stated, these MAY affect the results. I believe that the hose sizing, and possibly the differential pressure valve are what is causing the drop. As I see it, this is really not something that I'd want on my truck so I am taking the unit from my 6.5 off. In the case of the 6.5 with an engine mounted filter bypass valve, it would be too easy for oil to bypass the filter loop...





This may not be an issue, you never know. Mine was on for quite some time....





BlueMaxxxx,





Pretty darn close to ready. I am doing an install on a 6.5 this weekend, and I thing that I have darn near all the parts rounded up.

John


Am I reading idle chatter's last post correctly, the oil is picked up from pan--- thro oil pump----thro engine----then thro filterhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif will be a first for me.


Geno

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Z94_Oilflow3.jpg


Well, after a long cell phone call with John Kennedy and some more digging into the service manuals, I was mistaken on the oil flow. It does pick up right from the pan, but the oil cooler and oil filter ARE in between the oil pump and the lubrication galleries:


Engine lubrication is supplied by a gear type oil pump assembly. The pump is mounted on the front of the engine block and driven by the oil pump drive gear on the crankshaft. The pump gears rotate and draw oil from the oil pan sump through a pick-up screen and pipe. The oil is pressurized as it passes through the pump and is sent through the engine block oil galleries. Contained within the oil pump assembly is a safety relief valve that eliminates overpressurization. Pressurized oil is directed through the sub oil gallery (5) to the full flow oil filter where harmful contaminants are removed. Two bypass valves are incorporated into the oil cooler assembly, which will permit oil flow in the event the filter or the oil cooler become restricted. The oil is directed to the main oil gallery (4), and from the main oil gallery flows to the piston cooling channel left bank (3), and the sub oil gallery (6) on the right bank. The sub oil gallery on the right bank supplies oil to the right bank piston cooling channel (1). Located in the front cover at the sub oil gallery (6) is an oil pressure relief valve, which regulates oil pressure within operating range. Oil flows from the main gallery (4) to the vertical crankshaft/camshaft bearing galleries (2). From the crankshaft/camshaft bearing galleries (2), the oil flows to both the camshaft bearings and the crankshaft main bearings. Oil flows from the crankshaft main bearings to the connecting rod big end. Oil flows from the crankshaft/camshaft bearing galleries (2) to the number 1 camshaft bearing (7), where it splash lubricates the fuel injection pump gear. Oil flows from the crankshaft/camshaft bearing galleries (2) to the number 2 and 5 camshaft bearings (8). Oil flows from the crankshaft/camshaft bearing galleries (2) to the number 3 camshaft bearing (9), where it exits both cylinder heads and enters the hollow rocker arm shafts. Oil flows through the rocker arm shafts and rocker arms where it lubricates the upper valve train components. Oil also flows through the rocker arms, through the passage in the valve adjusting screw, and into the hollow pushrods where it is directed to the valve lifters. Oil flows from the crankshaft/camshaft bearing galleries (2) to the number 4 camshaft bearing (10), where it exits to the turbocharger oil supply line to lubricate the turbocharger. Oil exiting the turbocharger is routed through the turbocharger oil return pipe and into the flywheel housing.Edited by: Idle_Chatter

Chatter


You had me goin there for a while, thanks for getting my head on straight.


Geno

Good post Tom, I had intended to visit a good friend who is ASE certified on Dmax come Mon. for the info you have posted. However, there is still one point I need to get from someone. Where is the port for the oil pressure gauge? Is it up or downstream of the filters? If its upstream John could be correct, but you should get an abnormally high oil pressure reading if the restriction is as purported on that bobistheoilguy forum. If the port is downstream of filters, then you should get a very low oil pressure reading, if in fact the pressure drop is as claimed. When I installed the setup on my 03 I also went from factory installed oil to Amsoil 5W-30. Oil press @ hot idle is approx. 28 psi {slightly below fact.oil}, By the time you get to 1k rpm, oil press is as it was with OEM oil, which I assume is 15W-40. I figure the drop @ idle is due to thinner oil.


By the way Tom I sent you a 2nd PM, did it again get lost in cyberspace?


John, I need to check, but I believe my oil hose is .500 ID, I have some left over since hoses were so short, and I'll measure Mon. when I'm back at shop. That does leave some smaller area thru fittings, I agree. I will go to my grave repeating that SIZE MATTERS when it comes to flow capacity of an oil filter. And that increased flow capacity means decreased pressure drop.


Today I sent an E-mail to Amsoil inquiring about this whole deal as I am concerned, both as an Amsoil dealer and a user of the setup on my '03 Duramax.


I received a reply from a Michael Sparks, who is an Amsoil dealer who advetises on bobistheoilguy. He states that the whole thread is permeated with misinformation and misinterpretation. Says he knows of many people getting good oil anlysis afte 100k on the same oil with Amsoil setup. And one person with 300k on the truck with the setup Amsoil markets.


Go figure?????????

dirty old man. In replying to your post about where the o/p sensor is, I would say its before the filter. Its mounted in the galley on the drivers side of then engine, on its way back to the filter. 01 and 02 its near the front of the engine mounted on a stand off type tube. On 03 its screwed directly into block near the back of the engine

Thanks DMT, since the oil pressure is read upstream of the filter,and the oil pump is a positive displacement pump, then I believe oil pressure would show an increase{at least up to the point of pressure relief valve opening} if the filter{s} had an inordinate degree of flow resistance.


As I stated earlier, my hot idle press actually dropped slightly, but I installed the filter setup and changed to Amsoil 5W-30 Syn Diesel oil all at same time. From 1000 rpm up, press is same as before while hot.So I attributed the change to the thinner oil.


What is your opinion on all this DMT? You've been silent till now.

Yep, the oil flows thru the filter first. The size for the BMK 13 is 13/32, PLUS the metal hose end slides inside.





As I stated earlier, the same full flow element used was also tested on the single mount. The pressure drop was significantly greater when on the dual remote setup. This shows reduced flow.





Now for the fun part. The reality is, if we see decent oil psi as measured POST filter, we are OK. The key flaw in the testing is the open hose to the pail. This does not accurately represent the Dmax engine bearing clearances. Waht ist DOES state is that the Dual Remote will throughput LESS volume by far. On an engine with a smaller oil pump, or looser clearances, there will be more of a drop. Until someone tests the Dmax oil psi after the filter assy, we are only guessing. With piston spray cooling nozzles, there may well be a drop.





The idea of using a 13/32" hose however is a very poor one IMHO. Internal oil feel galleys are sized at 1/2" or better, and those are short runs, in a stable metal, not a hose.

Well, I was a little embarrassed that I hadn't gone far enough in the service manual to find the lubrication description - so for penance I typed in the text.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif Eric is right, oil pressure sensor is mounted on the left front of the block and reads the sub oil gallery (5) right on the outlet of the oil pump. I can see that there might be some valid concerns over pressure and flow losses, but remain convinced that my excellent oil sample results indicate that my dual remote is not detrimental to my lube system.

JK, I checked at shop today and you are correct on hose size, it is 13/32. I also agree, to an extent, that the only way to tell for sure is with an oil pressure reading downstream of the filters. When I go back and build a better, frame mounted bracket, I think I will install a Tee in filter return line in order to pick up post filter press.


In the meantime, I still believe that I should not have exprerienced an actual slight loss of oil pressure if flow is restricted, because the oil pump is positive displacement and should show an increase in pressure upsteam of filter in the event of increased filter flow resistance.

If the Dmax equivalent discharge area (bearing clearances, lifter clearances, spray nozzle openings et al is of an area smaller than the flow capabilities, then pressure drop will be nil.





Not many RIGID oil galleys are sized below 1/2" though...





NOW, if Bob had an upsize to 1/2" hose AFTER the dual remote (especially if he adapted to the 13/32" return hose) this will create a psi drop.








That said, I have removed the BMK 13 from my '96 so if anyone wants to experiment...