Just wondering how many of you guys have dynoed your motors. I was supposed to have mine on the rollers, but things came up. Hoping to break the 210+ rwhp mark.

:D

Here's Ronniejoe's infamous dyno results from a while back...
Thanks to John Kennedy for the open house this weekend. Late Saturday, after all of the Duramax fireworks, we put my Suburban on the dynamometer. Here's the bottom line:
Power at the wheels: 223 HP
Torque at the wheels: 428 lb-ft

This is raw data, not corrected to a standard day. Corrected values follow:
Corrected power at wheels: 228 HP
Corrected torque at wheels: 436 lb-ft

Definitely doesn't rival John's 590+ Hp and 980+ lb-ft from his Duramax, but exciting to me none the less.

We pulled Moondoggie's stock chip (since I didn't think to bring mine) and then ran some comparison tests. Keep in mind also, that the "stock" data here isn't really stock. I have a Kennedy intercooler, K&N filter, Banks 3" exhaust and Kennedy high-pop injectors installed on the truck. I ended up adding a Kennedy boost control to the BARO sensor and John set my timing to -1.94 deg.

The stock chip produced (all raw at the wheels): 188 HP, 373 lb-ft

Installing Kennedy's top TD Max chip produced:
209 HP, 409 lb-ft (This is how I arrived for the weekend)

Adding the boost controller produced:
220 HP, 419 lb-ft

Changing the timing from -.7 deg to -1.94 deg produced:
223 HP, 428 lb-ft

These tests were run to show the cummulative effect of each change. The boost controller keeps the boost from rolling off so much at higher rpm and made a big difference in top end power.

Towing performance with the controller added and the timing set was noticeably better. I have been running Kennedy's top chip for almost a year now and reported significant improvements previously. As seen from the data, the boost controller added about 10 HP at the peak (about 3250 rpm). However, lower down at 2920 rpm, I went from 207 HP to 220 HP with the controller added plus another 2 HP from the timing change.

Kennedy's products have changed my Suburban from being a towing "dog" to a towing "machine". It is truly fun to drive now.

By the way, on the trip home towing my travel trailer, I saw sustained boost of 17 psi on grades. The engine liked it, since the egt ran a lot lower than before. I can now shift down into 3rd (direct) at about 60 mph mat the accelerator and sustain boost at 14-15 psi until about 65 mph where it begins to roll off slightly. EGT stays below 1200 F. Previously, the boost would roll off to about 8-9 psi and my egt could hit 1450 F by the time I reached 70 mph.

We didn't record boost pressure during the dynamometer tests, but I watched the gage. The test was run in 3rd (direct) with the converter clutch locked. The test ran from about 38 mph to about 70 mph under maximum effort acceleration. Boost started at about 9 psi under full throttle at 35 mph and quickly built to 15 psi as the speed came up. When speed reached about 65 mph, the boost began to roll off, dropping to about 12 psi at the end of the test (with all mods in place).

Many folks say that the GM 4 turbo won't make any more power above 12 psi boost, but the dynamometer tests show otherwise. This is coupled with the added benefit of lower egt.

Here are two data plots. The first compares the four different configurations described above. The second compares the data with all mods but the timing in place to a stock 2004 Duramax LB7. Take a look:

http://www.schoolcraftpowertrain.com/Pictures_&_Data/Comparison.jpg

http://www.schoolcraftpowertrain.com/Pictures_&_Data/Schoolcraft_vs_stock_Dmax.jpg

Wish i had Ronniejoes cash to be about to do that.
Those are impressive numbers though.
Good Work

I'm hoping to at least match RJ's numbers but would be nice to surpass them. I'd really like to crack 300 HP! Should be able to get there with the 92mm pump.

You really have to help me now CR

I'd really like to crack 300 HP!Hopefully getting to 300HP doesn't 'crack' or 'break' anything ;)

Should be able to get there with the 92mm pump.H.O. DS pump is definitely the key to getting close that mark....:ro)

You really have to help me now CR
Whats up? If i can't i'm sure someone here can.

Don't ask me to time anything, i don't have a scanner and haven't played with timing yet...lol

CR ,
How does the shift kit work you have? Do you like it ? I am thinking of installing one , because it shifts like mush mobile. I bought a shift booster from Heath , havent installed it yet. But I would like to firm up the shifts. Did yours give neck breaking shifts ?

Thanks

Shifts weren't neck breaking but a definate improvement, it does snap into 2 & 3 & 4 nicely for a 2500. More power might give me a squawk going into 2nd later.

I can get second gear to chirp once in awhile right now. But thats the only hard shift I get. The others are weak and very wasteful slip wise. Was this a kit you did yourself, or was it something you had done at a shop ? Also was it just a valve plate, or did it interenally modify the valve body setup ?

Thanks for the input

I've read that with a toggle and 100 ohms on the TOT sensor back to ground will give it full lock up, fluid pressure.

I think this was the kit.
http://www.superiortransmission.com/products/shift_correction/4l80-e.htm

Resistors/chips etc work for OBDI trans, OBDII only way to get more trans is with tune of a reflash and the valve body, TCC lockup kits don't work well on them either.

Before everybody gets too hung up on dyno results, [/B]Many[B] variables will skew your results, dyno, dyno operator, temp of day, tire size & inflation pressure, yes it will show some indication of what you are laying down, but a good day on one dyno can be a bad day on another machine unless you run same conditions on same dyno for consistency.

On fridays when things were slow I used to run dynos for the viper motor guys ( used to work in the Dodge race proto type area ). Come 3:00 if the motor wasnt making the power it was supposed to ( had to make atleast 425 hp ) a funny thing would happen. A few parameters would magically change and shazaam. The motor made 425 hp. Like you say , its all in how a operator runs a dyno. I could easily add 75 hp to a motor with a few simple barometric pressure reading changes.

I've got one of those B&M shift plus units on my truck. It has a rocker 3 position rocker switch. one for stock setting, semi firm and super firm. Took like 5 min to install and tapped 2 wires that go into ecm. I betcha a sody pop the little box with the switch is just a resister. But for 10.00 on e-bay I cant complain. I actualy just leave it on the semi 2nd position all the time....just right for me. The extreme position is just to hard for me. But may be the ticket for some of you racer guys.

The B&M folks say the box is okay but the body & orifice kit that goes inside the trans is the ticket 1 kit comes witha race or tow body, I run the tow body, which when coupled with the trans curves in the reflash makes a fairly gutsy shifting profile when one gets themselves in race mode as well., but all it does is adjusts line pressure, neither the electronic box nor the body lock the torque converter, which is the critical piece of keeping the power applied. As of now there is no effective kit for that on OBD II 4L80 with PWM TCC lockup

BE CAREFUL! The 6.5 is a light duty diesel. Let me say that again. The 6.5 is a light duty diesel. The quickest path to your bank account is a 6.5 "externally" modded to the max and no foundation to support all of the new power.

If you want a lot of power, first, develop a strategy to get there and stick to it. I'd be very careful about how hard I push an externally modded 6.5 without thinking about the other side (the "internal" components) of the equation. Compression rating, method of CAC, ceramic coatings, splayed mains, stud girdles, pistons, etc.

I think I got to the point where it was cool to see all of the neat stuff I had in my sig. Oh, BTW, did you hear? I blew up my ride.

Don't mean to get up on the soap box. Just think we should all be a little more careful about how we spend our hard earned cash. Dynos are way cool. Hell, some folks thought heroin was cool. It's easy to get hooked.

Damn Spindrift!

Harsh, but true words. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif Thanks for the warning.

I second that. I ve wanted to add more stuff. But I am getting nervous as I drive this truck everyday. Though I dont tow anything with it. Its more daily driver then heavy hauler. I just like power. But I ll have my GSXR back together and running this weekend. So any 0-120 my blasts will be satisfied soon.

I am the same way. I don't tow much at all and I don't haul heavy loads so I am looking for sane improvements and things that enhance the life of my truck. Things like gauges, cooling, exhaust, timing, injectors..etc..

I am almost done fixing up my retired Kawasaki police 1000 and THAT I can go play with http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/exactly.gif

Before everybody gets too hung up on dyno results, [/B]Many[B] variables will skew your results, dyno, dyno operator, temp of day, tire size & inflation pressure, yes it will show some indication of what you are laying down, but a good day on one dyno can be a bad day on another machine unless you run same conditions on same dyno for consistency.
OK so let me be the bad guy again here. If, as you state here (and I know that there is a high content of correctness, but that's not the point), that dyno results are so easy "adjusted" then what good is it to "dyno" your rig? And why do we, as a group, get so "hung-up" on a dyno run report if we know they are subjected to being adjusted. I ask this only because the disscussion came up here locally of a dyno run maybe happening next week during a main street event. I thought it might be a good time for me to dyno my 2 projects, just for a starting point. Then the fact that the dyno would not be the same one to check any results with later would make comparsion hard at best.
So I ask again how can a dyno be helpful unless it's yours, in an enclosed, climate controlled building? Go ahead start throwing the snowballs:joke: :lol:

Now someone help me get down from the soapbox:joke:

:funnypost

Bowtie,

All valid points. Personally, I don't take exception to anything you said. Dynos are interesting when used to compare one truck to another(s) at the same time, place, etc. In addition, they are used to test "before" and "after" mod. That way, you see the real value of the coin you just dropped. That way, you begin to establish a baseline for your truck. For me to say I ran 200+ HP today, and then compare that to someone's run who lives in another part of the country, is a fairly useless exercise, except maybe for conversation.

Spindrift, I understand and that was kinda the point I was making. I for one didn't know that results were so easily "adjusted", till that was brought out here and at other fourms I am a member of. We, here at the diesel place have had a few long thread talks about peoples dyno results and if they could possible be correct. It appears that they could have been correct numbers given the infomation input to the dyno by the operator. I am hoping to dyno a couple of my rides here soon, if the dyno shows up for the curise here next month, But not sure if I will use them for anyone to see but myself for tuning purposes. Thanks for understanding my intent of this posting Spindrift.

OH BTW hows the truck with the new motor doing?

OH BTW hows the truck with the new motor doing?
Still puttin' her together. Will report when the work is complete.

The goal with the dyno is to be able to use it for a half day or full day. If your only going to get a few runs out of it at a cruise night or something, then its only going to be for bragging rights pretty much. Your not going to get much out of a bunch of guys on a portable dyno. Meaning they are there just to make money. For grins, my gsxr made 10 hp improvement, just by running the motor a few times to clear out the plugs. 10 hp on a bike is like 100 hp on a car. Dynos can be manipulated to show what you want, if you really want to cheat it that way. Just having a knowledgeable dyno guy can really make a difference.

If you can run the same dyno, same operator, then it becomes a tool to know how much of change you are making to your rig as you mod the engine, go to different dyno say on a day meet then it becomes an outing to see how you stack up against everybody for that day, lot of fun to do ego maker or breaker for the days enjoyment only; my real world dyno is how well I can pull my 5800# GN trailer loaded with 12,000# of backhoe.

As far as bolt on mods, if you use the safety switch on top of your shoulders, combined with reduction of right foot pressure, you can IMO run these trucks modded with minimal risk.

Just because I can pull 18K of load 80mph 900+F EGT & 15+ psi boost does not mean I do it, I have no problem with letting traffic pass if I want to hill climb at 45mph to keep from beating on the engine, driving slow gets you there quicker than walking any day.

Also because I have an engine quite capable of setting you back in the seat, does not mean I do it, it's a matter of self governance. Treat the truck with respect, build the engine in little bites and realize it's limits and you will be fine, push the envelope too far too often and you will be needing alternate means of transportation soon.

Ah crap, so now you tell me this... ;)

Oh so he was talking to you, I was beginning to wonder? :)

LOL, I thought for a second, I ve never even met this guy. How does he know so well how I drive :D

The biggest things with dynos is repeatability. Just as stated above. Not too many of us can afford to spend an entire weekend on the dyno , installing , heads, intakes, turbos, ic's, chips, boost controllers and exhaust systems. Most of us take a year or two to install all that, not one weekend. ( I say most of us, cause I installed a bunch of stuff all at once ). Dynos are a tool, but not like a wrench. By installing an exhaust system, you might have to start completely from scratch on the dyno to get max power again. 3 runs isnt going to be much information. Its when you can make 30 runs when you start to get information. And most people cringe when they hear thier truck running high rpms like that , for that long. Dynos are a great tool, but for the most part, arent used the way they are supposed to be used. These portable dyno guys make a killing at events. Giving people the "sheet" that is used to show all thier buddies how monsterous thier motor is.

To put it short, I dynoed a 632 cube mopar motor. We made over 1500+ hp. We made over 200 pulls on the motor testing various parts. The motor was rebuilt afterwards with all the best performing parts we ended up with. I bet that test cost the owner $10,000-15,000 to run it that much.

And just to make things even more questionable, things on the dyno in a controlled atmosphere and setting , dont always make max power on the street where it really counts.

It does give you a good baseline to know where you stand, better then nothing.

EXACTLY but I've seen people wrapped around their axle over another person dyno numbers, as to the exactness of them. I was just trying to see if everyone felt like I did and it appears ya do.