Can someone confirm that the xfer case drain/fill on the OEM 2500HD electronic xfer case use a 3/4" wrench/socket? I assume the heads are magnesium and I can't get them to break free, now they seem to be "rounding" off at the corners.

Is a box end the best way to get at it, I tried a socket/ratchet and a vise grip locking crescent, but the darn shape of the rear half really screws up getting at it good. My 3/4" box end seems to have walked off, so I may have to borrow one.

Thanks

its an 18 mm

its an 18 mm
Thanks, nothing like keeping things standardized from one component to the next.

I'll borrow a metric set that has an 18mm tomorrow, thanks again.

Also, can I use wd40 on magnesium to free up the fill plugs?

You can use WD-40 to loosen just about anything. Problem is that the plug is so tight, the fluid will have a hard time getting in there.

Once you do get them out, a better way to re-install them is just a few wraps of sealant-tape (typical "telflon" pipe thread tape) and just a turn or two of the plug. The t-case does not operate under any significant pressure, so you're just protecting against gravity regarding the fluid leaking out. You have a magnesium case and aluminum plugs, IIRC. DO NOT REPLACE THE PLUGS WITH STEEL ONES AS IT WILL ACCELERATE THE CORRSIVE ELECTROLOSIS! Just put in the regular plugs, and tighten with until snug, but not gorilla tight.

its an 18 mm

A 6-point 18mm box wrench or socket will help prevent rounding the corners, tightened to 15 ft lbs, (not very tight).

I could not use the 18mm socket & rachet on the drain plug, not enough clearance between the Xfer case plug and the support thing. So if you need to borrow a tool, ask for the 18mm wrench. The fill plug was not a problem.

Mine got over tightened after the oil change place "checked" it.

I used an 18mm socket, a 3/8" universal joint, a short extension, and my impact (even though it says no impact) as I could not break it even with a 6 pt wrench. The impact did the job,.


Turned out, I had a hole in the case anyway, so it didn't matter much, but it sure needed fluid. :p:

Thx everyone!

JF

I doubt the WD-40 will do much good if it's real tight. Once you find something that will grab onto that rounded off plug, a little heat from a small propane torch around the threads will help it to pop loose. Been there, done that. ;)

Just remember it is a "taper" Plug, so just snug is fine especially if you want to remove it again in the future!

Picked up 18mm box end this morning and got the fill plug free. No signs of pump rub on rear half and fluid was right at fill hole, looked brand new when I inserted a small length of test paper in thru hole to check fluid level. 37k miles and the stuff looked like it came right out of a quart bottle.

Changing fluid postponed to a later date based on those observations. Thx again for the info on plug head size.

Holy Cow -

HayJay, these cases are magnesium. Do NOT put a little torch to these things! Although a small amount of quick heat may not be enough to start it burning, on the off chance it does, there is no stopping the fire! In general, flame and magnesium do NOT go together well. Once it starts, it basically has to burn itself out. And the resultant heat is WAY past your typical backyard bonfire. Probably would burn the truck to the ground.

I used to work at a machining facility (Ford steering systems plant in Indy). We specialized in aluminum steering components. We looked into using magnesium for the weight/strength properties, and decided against it because the fire risk is literally that great.

Don't say you weren't warned!

Holy Cow -

HayJay, these cases are magnesium. Do NOT put a little torch to these things! Although a small amount of quick heat may not be enough to start it burning, on the off chance it does, there is no stopping the fire! In general, flame and magnesium do NOT go together well. Once it starts, it basically has to burn itself out. And the resultant heat is WAY past your typical backyard bonfire. Probably would burn the truck to the ground.

I used to work at a machining facility (Ford steering systems plant in Indy). We specialized in aluminum steering components. We looked into using magnesium for the weight/strength properties, and decided against it because the fire risk is literally that great.

Don't say you weren't warned!


x2 dont use a torch on any magnesium component for gods sake :rolleyes:
just get as much leverage as you can.

Holy Cow -

HayJay, these cases are magnesium. Do NOT put a little torch to these things!
You'll notice I said "a little heat". No more than if it were at operating temperature. Less then 10 seconds around the plug and it popped right out. I didn't say drag out the acetylene torch and get 'er glowing red, so you can melt the plug out. :rolleyes:

Fair enough.

But there are people here that don't know of the danger; so it's fair to warn them. Plus "a little heat" means different things to different people.

The risk of a raging fire is great enough that we should make it clear for all those that don't understand.