So my gauges finally came--I went with the Dipricol black face pyro and 60 psi boost with chrome bezels. They look sweet mounted in Trippin's overhead mount! I'll get some pics up once the install is complete.

So...I'm getting ready to install them and I think I'm clear on everything but the wiring.

I have one set of leads for the pyro LED, another set for the pyro backlight, and then the boost lighting has already been bussed so that only one set of wires is coming off of it.

Since I just want to run one hot and one ground, how is the best way to buss all the wires?

Next, I'd like to tap into the dimmer switch for my dash lights, which is explained in other threads, but do I need to get keyed power in addition to this, or can I just tap my one hot lead into the dimmer wire? I won't need any fuse taps if I just splice into the dimmer wire, right?

Thanks for everyone's help--I'm doing my best to learn about wiring systems, but it's kinda hard when I don't have anyone to offer hands-on help.

Good to hear you finally decided on some gauges. Be sure and include a night photo with the needles lit up! Also, since you will have your hands on a digital camera, would you also add a photo or so to the Mud Flap post of a few weeks ago, showing the Duraflaps.

Have you reviewed the following thread in the DYI section? It is a great "how to" with photos, doing what sounds like your project (install gauges in an overhead Trippin mount). Click on the link in the first note (BMDMax's Guide to Gauge Hotness). Go in several photos to see a bus wiring example.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21492

Will do on the pics BH in AZ!

I've studied BMDMax's excellent guide, but I'm still a little unsure what kind of connectors to use. Do I just use the standard crimp connectors to splice two wires together and so on?

You'll need a 12 volt source that comes on with the ignition for your pyrometer if it works the same as my VDO gauges. In the terminal box down by the drivers left foot there is a place for a 4 way plug in the top center of the box, just to the right of where the trailer brake harness plugs in. The terminal in the upper right of the 4 way plug is a switched 12v. The upper left terminal is a constant 12v. I believe that this only applies to 2003 and newer trucks based on pictures I have seen of older trucks terminal boxes.

You can solder the connections or just use the crimp style butt connectors to join the wires together. I heat shrink everything once the connections are done to keep it all secure.