i finally got it installed! started last night and got the IC mounted, and finished today with the tubing and turning the upper plentum.

bad news is i found my turbo is very loose on the shaft, as in it has alot of play.....looking for a nice rebuilt one. ebay had them a few months ago, but nothing now? if anyone has one, or knows of a good one/rebuilt one, please let me know.

the intercooler is 24" long, 12" tall and 3" thick. 3" in and 3" out.

ok, here are the pics:

this is the upper plentum cut down, and the tuning is finished:
http://www.mrtaillight.com/images/IC1.jpg


this is the right inner fender. we did have to trim the inner fender sheet metal on both sides to make it fit "correct" so for all you "im not gonna cut my truck" nuts, i would suggest you go with a smaller size tubing! LOL
http://www.mrtaillight.com/images/IC2.jpg

this is the drivers side....same way!
http://www.mrtaillight.com/images/IC3.jpg

this view is from under the truck with the tubing going into the drivers inner fender. you can also see the lower brackets holding on the IC. the lower valance has not been cut yet, but soon will be.
http://www.mrtaillight.com/images/IC4.jpg

this is just another lower view....you can see the chasis could use a good cleaning up!
http://www.mrtaillight.com/images/IC5.jpg

i cut 2 long slots in the lower valance to help with air flow. you can see also that the IC is well protected.
http://www.mrtaillight.com/images/IC6.jpg


here you can see the slots alot better.
http://www.mrtaillight.com/images/IC7.jpg:ro)

ok all you that have an opinion...lets hear them good and bad...........!

i am heading out for Chicago sunday with a 24' trailor, so i will see then the difference. i will post what i think when i get back.

That is pretty cool , what kit is that ?
What i dont like is the tubes going through the wheel wells like that but none the less cool
Good work LIGHT

with the 3" tubing, it was darn near impossible to run them w/o going into the fender wells w/o moving major parts that was un called for.

the IC is a "XS Power" and the bought the 3" tubing pipes off ebay.

You notice more power or are you waiting for the new turbo?

Still looks great

i only drove it around town a bit, i will take it on a highway ride tomorrow for about 2 hours. i think i will really only notice a real difference when towing.

thanks for the compliment!

Cool setup! My only concern would be damage from kicked up stones. Without making it look like crap, have you considered some sort of grille to protect it?

Let us know your test drive findings!

i really did have that concern, being low to the ground, and rocks or ??? hitting it. i guess you cant protect everything, so what the hey! LOL

i have next on the agenda a 4 or 6 inch lift, all suspension, this should help protect it alot. it is a road vehicle, not at all off road, so it should be some what safe.

Looks good, I would suggest getting some different style clamps for your hose connections. Hose clamps tend to back off and cause leaks. The clamps I would recommend are a band style clamp that has a bolt that connects the two halves and a locking nut. These are the type that most oem's use on the intercooler plumbing. Also, when you checked the play in your turbo, was the engine cold or had it been run? The reason I ask, is that oil takes up a lot of play in turbo bearings, and after the truck sits for a while the oil leaks out, leaving shaft play. The rule of thumb is that if the turbine can hit the casting while checking play, turbo needs to be rebuilt, if it doesn't hit, it is OK.:rolleyes: Nice job.

I think it looks awesome. How much did the intercooler cost and where did you get it?

Great job, Mr, TL,

My recommendations are to start washing your motor once a month at the power wash to keep the grime off of it, sure makes it nicer to work on when the engine's not so dirty. Relocate that IP driver/cooler off the intake and to where the IC core is now. :D

That is very near to the plan I have in mind. But I think I will tuck the cooler into the bumper more, move the licence plate, cur a hole where the licence plate is now, and put the cooler upright instead of at a slant. The cooler I am looking at is (Core) 17.75 x 11.75 x 3 with 3" in and out. If I modify the inlet and outlet to point into the truch instead of outward, I should be able to keep the tubes inside the truck. I am very very interested in how this core performs, and what kind of restriction it causes as my core is the same crosssection just not as long. The core I am looking at is here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7966825563&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
It will take some fabrication to turn the inlet/outlet 90°. I am a couple of weeks from starting this project and have already started taking pics.

The space behind the bumper to the condensor after it's moved back 2" is 6"w (smallest) 9"w deadcenter x 32" L between the frame members x ~16" h max if you modify the hood catch mechinism, as it's in the way.
I still think the best way to run these larger IC's is to make a new(ranch hand style) bumper/grill around the IC core. That's not a comprimise it's an improvement.

QM, I was thinking the same thing except I would want it to look good without weighing a ton and costing a fortune. You and mistertaillight have done an awesome job with the intercoolers and thanks to you guys I know where to get one for a good price now. The bigger bumper with the IC behind it would be nice with the previously mentioned qualifiers.

BAck to the location, my core has been in that possition since 1998 and it looks good. No major dings in it from rocks flying up. The only thing I noticed is the very tips of some of the fins were bent over a little which would restrict air flow a little. Combed them back straight and looks as good as new. And we probably get some of the biggest rocks on the road here in the winter time you have ever seen! The hwy dept calls it sand but sand doesn't get wedged in so hard between the lugs of my Geolanders that you have to pry it out with a screwdriver:eek: . Only issue I can see with it mounted there is if you do some off roading.

My problem is that the wife doesn't want me cutting into the stock grille. So I have to go under the bumper, originally I wanted to go infrot of the rad. but the cooler would have to be thin, 2". The only way to mount a thicker cooler and not cut into the grille is under the bumper like MRTLIGHT. I love the work.

And don't forget that cooling system upgrade too.
Very Nice Work and from what TD (I believe) said theres not much to worry about damaging it there either.
DC where can those clamps be bought at ?

QM, I was thinking the same thing except I would want it to look good without weighing a ton and costing a fortune. You and mistertaillight have done an awesome job with the intercoolers and thanks to you guys I know where to get one for a good price now. The bigger bumper with the IC behind it would be nice with the previously mentioned qualifiers.
My plan is to get The biggest core I can find within reason and make the bumper high and light but crash ready. If I do a good job, maybe someone else might like one too.

QM, I will be eagerly waiting to see it!!!!!

Looks really nice. Are you going to get it on a dyno? Are you going to measure IAT?

You did a nice install t-light :ro) could'nt you spray the pipes with some rubberized undercoating?That way you would hardly notice them.

Looks good. Did you roll a bead around each pipe end? If it's smooth pipe you'll probably blow a hose off when you start make'n that serious Hp. Have fun!

funny you say that DP! i took a 2 hour trip to get my boy, and the pipes blew apart 3 times.

this morning i took all the pipes apart, rolled every end, and i went to NAPA and got the spring loaded hose clamps ($63 worth just to do this job) and i went to LOWES and got a rubber 3" to 3" pipe fitting, well about 5 of them at $5 each. they actually measured about 3.25 inch, but by using these it did allow for engine movement, and if your pipe cutting skills is at a 98%, these rubber fitting make up the other 2% LOL meaning that it allows the pipes to be in place and NOT under stress, or binding when clamped.

if i had it to do again, i would only buy the pipe needed and use the NAPA & LOWES made install kit. the connectors and hose clamps that come with the "kit":
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7968870296&category=38634&sspagename=WDVW
do not hold up worth a darn. not that the install was not correct, but only having about 1.5" of blue connector tubing to connect every connection, it kinda sucked! it was just not enough to do the job correctly.

when i got the suburban at 171K i took it to a tennessee show we did and put it on the dyno. 141 HP, and 343 FPT. and at that time the truck was 10000% stock!

i know there is a hugh difference with all the goods i done to it, so yes, i want to dyno it again.

well i am off to Chicago in the morning with an empty trailor, hopefully i will have a tool box for my garage when i get back. i think the 13 hour trip with a 24' trailor attached will make or brak all the mods done so far.

also i had my 80HP chip re-programed, and i will have it back on monday. turns out i will be heading to Florida this friday to move a friend. this time the trailor will be LOADED! this will become the true test of what my little burban can do

Can you post new pics of the connectors that you went too. I would love to learn from your mistakes and save a bundle. I too was looking into one of those kits off of ebay but hav now changed my mind. I can get 3" tubing(steel) pretty cheap. But as of yet I do not know how I will do the joints. I can get silicone hose at what ever length I want from the local truck shop, would longer hoses have done the job? Well anyway let us know how it is working for you. Your job has really given me some ideas and options. Now I am looking at a bigger intercooler that before.

sure, i will post more pics when i am satisfied 100% with the job. i went to Chicago yesterday with it and a 24' trailer, and it done real well, i was impressed.

i went throught the last toll booth in chicago for the skyway (more like a $6 ride to be stuck in traffic for an hour) and the blue hose that cames with the "KIT" blew apart. it cracked in the middle of the joint. i think the exhaust manifold had something to do with it, as far as heat goes allowing it to split. now go figure, i had replaced all the connectors but the reducers (turbo & intake to tubing) and that is the one that blew. i still had about 2 lbs of boost till i got to my destination. then i put an extra hose clamp over the split. this allowed more boost, about 8 lbs at this point. the good thing is with this split, my exhaust temp maxed out at 600! the extra boost that leaked out was blowing right on the manifold, cooling it down.

so now the question is, where can we find a good 2.5 to 3" reducer at? if anyone has an idea, PLEASE let me know. i got volunteered to help a friend move to florida this friday, and i need to get new hoses on b4 i head out. i will be pulling the 24' trailor loaded to the roof!

If you look on ebay you will find some silicone reducers with t-bolt clamps. The price is a lot more but I think you are getting what you pay for. Look for "intercooler silicone".

could you use a steel exhaust pipe reducer and then clamp from there?

boisebiker, just keep in mind about the 90 degree turns.....the more turns you have, the harder it is to get the air in and out, meaning less power. a good example is this: i took my kid to Quaker Steak & Lube and they have the curly straws...the more you bent them, the harder it was to drink, the straighter they were, the easier it was for the pop to flow through. this is the REAL reason i opted for the inner fender well route, and not the extra bends for the inside frame location. also for the room needed, it would be IMPOSSIBLE to mount it in front of the rad. i put a tranny cooler in front of the rad, and it just barley touches the grill......not much room at all!

guybb3, yes, i ended up using one of those to go from the 2.5" turbo to the 3" pipe.

well i took a 2500 mile trip to florida this past weekend, and i learned a few things i needed about intercoolers:
1) DO NOT USE the cheap thin walled, non nylon reinforced hose!!
2) DO NOT USE the "standard" hose clamps, they come off!
3) use the "t-bolt" or "spring loaded" style clamps ONLY!!
4) bevel the edges of EVERY pipe you use. if you do not, they can blow apart, no matter how tight you have your clamps. DO NOT bevel them to much as they can poke a hole in your hose.
5) USE the nylon reinforced hose....or high temp semi hose!
6) make sure your piping job is 99% or better. do not allow for the hose to make up the angle you need. just pretend that the pipe is welded together and the hose over the connections hides the welds. this way you have no wear on your piping/tubing system.

i am not an expert, but after 3000 miles in a week with this new intercooler, i learned ALL of these things listed above.

i am VERY happy with the results. mileage and performance went to the top of the deck! nothing like a 9000 LB loaded trailer going 65 up hill and gaining speed w/o the pedal to the floor! very impressive needless to say.

i did order all "t-bolt" style clamps and new nylon reinforced hose for the entire system. after i get them installed i will take more pics and post them.

What kind of fuel mileage did you get on your Florida trip (loaded and solo, and speed)?

I think it looks bad ass:ro) . I like the big pipes running in the fender wells. Makes people know for sure she ain't no stocker! I hope to get some sort of IC going after I do my axle swap cause I will be fabbing a new bumper too. Can't wait:grd:


BEAUTIFUL JOB T-LIGHT! Hope mine looks that good

What kind of fuel mileage did you get on your Florida trip (loaded and solo, and speed)?
Ditto, and also did your EGTs do better?

Turbonetics brand makes the highest quality silicone tubing and they have a 2.5" to 3" reducer retail is @$26 I use one of these reducers on my intake system. Excellent!

I notice the same intercooler on Ebay now with a 4" core instead of a 3" core- would that fit in your location? Also a tech question for all those in the know...it says the intercooler is tested to "6 bar"- what does that equate to in pounds of boost, if you can make that conversion?

6 bar = 87.02 psi

6 bar = 87.02 psi

Now, that's a lot of boost :)

whahoo!!! Goin' Dmax huntin!

i just figured out the round trip mileage, and it was 8.5 MPG with a 24' enclosed trailor, and about 1000 LB loaded for the trip south, and i think the trailer is about 3000 LB empty (not sure?)

yes, a 4 row would fit just fine in this location.

honestly, i LOVE the look of the intercooler pipes in the fender wells.....i see people looking all the time even just being parked around town. i took it to a semi truck wash on the way home in Va, and those 20 year old punks washing the trucks about freaked out seeing those pipes. you hear them saying "i bet he would kick arse in the truck pulls" & NOW thats power" and so on.

i was very happy with the end results. just alot of work!

thanks for all the compliments guys. Steve

i just figured out the round trip mileage, and it was 8.5 MPG with a 24' enclosed trailor

That makes me feel a little better. I always thought that my 6.5 seemed to get worse mileage than others. I just figured the fuel mileage and expenses from a 3200 mile round trip to VA and back. Going out, I towed a 23' travel trailer with the truck and trailer loaded with tools, furniture, clothes, etc., with the weight total at 16,700#. I tried to maintain around 75 MPH (usually 77-78), and averaged 8.75 MPG. Coming back with the truck solo, and traveling about the same speed (maybe a bit faster, but not much), I averaged 14.75 MPG. I wish it would be better, and I really think that lowering the RPM's would help open road fuel mileage, but of course hurting towing capacity.

That makes me fell a little better. I always thought that my 6.5 seemed to get worse mileage than others. I just figured the fuel mileage and expenses from a 3200 mile round trip to VA and back. Going out, I towed a 23' travel trailer with the truck and trailer loaded with tools, furniture, clothes, etc., with the weight total at 16,700#. I tried to maintain around 75 MPH (usually 77-78), and averaged 8.75 MPG. Coming back with the truck solo, and traveling about the same speed (maybe a bit faster, but not much), I averaged 14.75 MPG. I wish it would be better, and I really think that lowering the RPM's would help open road fuel mileage, but of course hurting towing capacity.
I think that's pretty darn good. I have 4.10s and if drove any distance at 80mph, I would probably get about 10mpg give or take.

Steve, how did you attach the intercooler? Its hard to see in the pics.

I just checked my yesterday driving up to the city running 78-80 mph at 2800 rpm's holding 8-10 pounds of boost I got 13.5. I have gotten as good as 16 but that was alot slower then.

dslhead, i just got in my hgh temp tubing in today, so as i install or after i re-install the piping, i will post better pics. i learned alot on this install!

So, Mr.T, have you been able to finilize your design and complete testing? Is so do you have the final pics? I am pretty much waiting for you to work out all of the kinks before I start my install.

Mr. TL,

Looks cool. You sure have jumped into the 6.5L with both feet. As I recall you bought it just about 4 months ago.

did you up your boost to compensate for the intercooler? If so, how much? And do you have any "before and after" data that you can share, such as EGT, MPG, HP , and Torque?

Thanks,

-John

yes, i did jump into it with both feet!

i did put it on a dyno when it was 100% stock and i got 141HP and 343 FPT. i have not had it checked since.

i did make a run to Va Beach yesterday to pick up a friend, and i noticed that my highway miles were even better than just a few months ago. i think the intercooler has all the difference owed to it! it was 680 miles on 37 gal of fuel....about 1/3 better mileage than stock.

i did buy the truck last may, but did NO upgrades till feb of this year.

i just picked up a Cat turbo, and i am going to see if i can get that mounted on there! but that is another post!!!

Mr. T, have you had much chance to test the intercooler? Have you got connections that are good enough yet? Have you had any problem with this set up yet? I am itching to get mine installed but am willing to waite untill all of the results are back. Also any pics would be great.

Nice job. Something I may look into down the road.

Two things, FWIW.

1) In my younger days I had a 67 GTO with 454 transplanted into it. In order to get the headers on I had to run a couple of the tubes thru the fender well on both the psgr and driver's side. Never had any problems, but then again I tried to only drive it in dry weather. On the trucks, one could 'wrap' a 'mud flap' around the IC piping in the fenderwell, or tack on a 'shield'.

2) Anyway you can post an ending Bill of Materials (BOM), including P/Ns, rough costs and source of supply? Not all great threads like this get stickied or in the FAQ. I'm keeping a file of 'how to' items.

Lastly, I do like the idea of stuffing the IC into a bumper such as the Ranch Hand. It would then be out of harms way (for the most part) when off-roading.

Again, great job.

boisebiker, yes, i have put about 7K mile with it. awesome results!!

i found the best way to make good connections is not the silicone connectors, but the heat resistant (blue/orange) tubing that you can buy by the inch. by far the best in the industry!

wi65td, if i find enough time, i would love to post it. i will make it a goal to do so for all of you fellas that want to do the project.

also, i have (knock on wood) not had a single problem with the IC located under the bumper. i would mount it there again in a heartbeat!

Again, when all is said in done this is a very neat installation. I look forward to attempting it some day when the stars are aligned and I have more than checks in my checkbook.

When the intake is rotated 180* as is the case here, how much interference is there when changing the fuel filter? Will the plenum have to be removed to change the fuel filter ? Just a thought.