No problem, I cant wait to see you get your car running again. One of these days I'm going to have to catch up with you your not to far from me. Id love to see your car in person!

Justin

No problem, I cant wait to see you get your car running again. One of these days I'm going to have to catch up with you your not to far from me. Id love to see your car in person!

Justin

hopefully real soon it'll be running. yeah, you're not to far from me. i actually went to school 20 miles east of pittsburgh. was there for about 2 years and loved the location. did some crazy chit. even got to race at pittsburgh raceway park a couple times, went to the mud bogs, and tried to hit all the atv trails. great memories. I'll let you know if Im ever in the area.

well, i keep saying it, so now i am gonna have to. I am bolting a hitch on the car so I can pull a small popup camper. I have the hitch, and now since some wieght was removed it can be installed. I have also considered helper air bags. they sell them for f-bodys, but for "drag" purposes.

so does anyone know how much tongue weight a small popup roughly has?
can I balance the load so the tongue is less, and still have control?



here's a cool He351ve setup on a vp44 dodge truck. I will use his concepts for my build. at this time I will not be using the exhaust brake function.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnHGbN67PIM
if you notice he has another arm welded onto the holset's arm. this allows him to actuate it at a vertical angle (position of wastegate). this was a major hurdle for me since I have limited space.

Cody,

Believe the oil input hole is M12 x 1.5 pitch. It's a bit unique as the most common M12 plumbing fittings are 1.25 pitch. My 1.5 thread pitch gauge matches the threads. And a common M12 x 1.25 banjo bolt is the right diameter but won't thread in due to the pitch difference.

My guess is you're not gonna to plumb the coolant passages. But if so, they're M16 x 1.5 pitch. I need to see the turbo on the truck to see how it's OEM plumbed - but would guess the coolant passages use banjo fittings w/ a short hard pipe away from the turbo, then hoses, clamped onto the end of the hard pipe, go back to where ever they source & return the coolant.

The stock DSM turbo coolant lines may provide a good salvage yard source for banjo bolt & lines the right size. Guessing the M16 x 1.5 pitch banjo bolts in my collection came from DSM's from years back.

Cody,

Believe the oil input hole is M12 x 1.5 pitch. It's a bit unique as the most common M12 plumbing fittings are 1.25 pitch. My 1.5 thread pitch gauge matches the threads. And a common M12 x 1.25 banjo bolt is the right diameter but won't thread in due to the pitch difference.

My guess is you're not gonna to plumb the coolant passages. But if so, they're M16 x 1.5 pitch. I need to see the turbo on the truck to see how it's OEM plumbed - but would guess the coolant passages use banjo fittings w/ a short hard pipe away from the turbo, then hoses, clamped onto the end of the hard pipe, go back to where ever they source & return the coolant.

The stock DSM turbo coolant lines may provide a good salvage yard source for banjo bolt & lines the right size. Guessing the M16 x 1.5 pitch banjo bolts in my collection came from DSM's from years back.

way late...update
thanks for the info on the oil inlet. I grabbed my hx turbo, took the fitting and it fits exact, even seals against the o-ring on the 351ve. another couple bucks/hassle saved. thanks!

yes, I am not using the coolant passages, but it's good info for anyone else looking to hook up one of these turbos.

here's what's done (no pics cause I am tired)
-oil drain
-oil pressure supply
-hot side (needs to be wrapped)
-cold side (needs WMI bung plumbed)
-air intake (needs fitting for CDR)
-downpipe exhaust is done enough for the car to run, until I can figure the rest out.
-lower core support
-upper core support (just tacked)

waiting for...
(2) 12" e-fans
(1) 48" flex rad hose

need to...
cap of frame ends
paint all bare metal

getting closer!!! :D

hot/cold complete
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03216.jpg

very nice looking, what kind of coating do you have on them?

its VHT flame proof flat black. good up to 2000f, love the stuff.

ot, I decided to not wrap the hot side as of now. dont think I'll lose much heat, and its all 14 gauge pipe, thicker than standard 16 gauge.

still waiting on parts!! :mad:

Cody, where do you get your pipe? I can get pipe at work but the thinest I can get is SCH 10 pipe dont know what it converts to in gauge...

Justin

^originally I got it from ebay, a company called fishnetsales. they build marine exhaust systems and always have leftover bends. I beleive the pipe needs to be thicker due to marine app. All the pipe used in this system was taken directly from my rear turbo setup, recycled.

so it's just regular 2.5 exhaust tubing, but you cant find the 14 gauge stuff most places.

update:
sorry for not updating. but the car is running and done. First start up was before the NEW YEAR! I hope everybody enjoyed their Christmas season.

I have not messed with the wastegate actuator for vgt control that much. but I do have manual stops for the holset arm. so I am gonna drive with the arm in various positions to see where the car likes it best. then I will focus the 'gate/vgt area around that.

otherwise, the turbo system is done. And the radiator relocation worked out very well. AND, I still ended up with less weight over the front. :D

It also came out looking very clean and simple. and most important, any "one" part can be serviced/accessed without moving other parts.

I guess pics would be in order?.....later today, and if i have time a vid

So what was the final routing for your pipes cody?

So what was the final routing for your pipes cody?

I was able to work with the original design. turbo on pass side.
some pics...
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03250.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03249.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03251.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03252.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03257.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03254.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03258.jpg

air filter and exhaust are not bolted up in these pics. some final pics will come later today. just working on securing a few wires and such. the exhaust is :cool:, but no pics installed, gonna make y'all wait! oil cooler was mounted in front of rad for better airflow.

looks amazing! i've been following the thread for awhile. Wish i had the knowledge and area to do something like this. Good Work!

Is there any concern for the belt with the turbo and exahust there?

Will the turbo compressor housing be insulated?

Has the car been running really cool, because with the turbo and exhaust under the hood its likely to bring it up several ticks.

looks amazing! i've been following the thread for awhile. Wish i had the knowledge and area to do something like this. Good Work!

thank you sir!

Is there any concern for the belt with the turbo and exahust there?

Will the turbo compressor housing be insulated?

Has the car been running really cool, because with the turbo and exhaust under the hood its likely to bring it up several ticks.

I've thought about the risks of heat transfering to the pulley/belt. No room for a turbo blanket now either. I can shave a little bit more off the exh housing to give me more than what I got. no way to tell until I do a couple WOT long duration runs and get the EGTs up. I guess I can fab up a small heat shield for that area. he's how I figure it....
Idle/slow speed EGT's=400 ish wont give me any issues with heat, esp with fans blowing
moving/WOT egts=900 ish with all that fresh air coming through, the heat wont have enough time to transfer. then again my logic could be off.

that with the belt constantly rotating, it couldnt possibly heat a large enough area of the belt to melt. but even constant low heat (relative) over a period of time will stretch/dry crack the belt. So at the worst I expect to change the belt every couple months. not bad.
honestly though, if i had any concerns of ever melting belts, i wouldnt have built it this way.

comp housing will not be insulated

car has always run at 185 deg and just like before the e-fans will run all the time at idle. I do expect underhood temps to go up. not sure how much.

Youve put some thought into it. In my LT1, just putting headers on increased engine bay temps.

I am interested in seeing how long the single battery lasts.

Looks like fun. Keep up the good work!!

Youve put some thought into it. In my LT1, just putting headers on increased engine bay temps.

I am interested in seeing how long the single battery lasts.
we'll see what happens. you have to remember though, the air no longer comes from that air dam under the car, up and through like your 4th gen. instead it comes straight through the front and its really "open" everywhere else. I am hoping that will also help at idle/not moving.

Looks like fun. Keep up the good work!!

thanks!

OT, I thought i would mention i really never had any special tools to build this car. I've found a way to make due with a chop saw, 4 in grinder, cutoff wheel, carbide burrs, roloc discs, a decent Hobart 180 MIG, torch, air compressor, set of craftsman tools and that's about it.

I always wondered what more I could do in a different environment with all the goodies like a cold saw, tubing bender, hydraulic sheer, plasma cutter, etc.

so for anyone who thinks this stuff is only for the "pros", an amateur fabricator can have himself adequetly equipped for not much money and still turn out some cool chit.

btw stay away from Chinese made cutoff wheels, they fly apart randomly. I was running low on discs and I had one with no label/tag on it. ohh boy what a mistake. I only buy Norton/usa, abrasives/consumables. f**** China, they'll "shoot yer eye out"

X2 on the chinese cutoff wheels. DANGEROUS! I wear my trusty face sheild for all grinding and cutting nowadays. Great fab work.

Holy crap Cody....

I don't check here for a little while and you've got everything done. That's some mind blowing fabrication. :D Really hope to see some new videos soon.

Never thought the HE351VE would take off like it did. Not sure if my buddy Don started it but between everyone using them now i'm sure it can be perfected to use on the 6.5. I'm really looking forward to your tests of the different positions on the VGT setup. If all goes well i may be hunting for a HE351VE of my own.

^^thanks guys.

here's some work I completed today on the vgt actuation.

the wastegate actuator cracks at 7 psi, and fully open at 10 psi. single port, bought new from Ebay, $50 (a little steep)
this is the prototype, moves freely, no binding.
the turbo will be reinstalled at some point this week. kinda busy lately with work though.

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03261.jpg
when the gate is closed(no pressure) the arm is in the fast spool area. when opened it should slow the turbine speed, controlling the max boost to somewhere very near 15 psi.
the arm does not go into the Exhaust brake mode, but the whole on the other side of my arm is there for the future use of it.

I have yet to add adjustable stops on the far side of range of turbo arm, low and high.

please ask any questions you got to make sure I am doing this right and I typed this quickly. hopefully this info will help others in their fab with the he351ve turbo.

I'm amped to see and hear it run now !

I'm amped to see and hear it run now !

me too!! :D and screw working today, I'm putting off two full details cause I WANNA DRIVE NOW!!!

all misc chit I had to complete is DONE. (looming wires, securing parts from heat). wrapped the downpipe to keep the fans away from heat, see below.

-the e-fans I bought from Ebay are said to pull AND push by just flipping the blade on the fan=B-frickin-S they suck as pushers. so i decided I had enough room to mount them on the engine side of the rad. that will get completed today.

Wmi is being left un hooked while i figure out some issues with the mounting location.

otherwise she's ready for her maiden voyage. wooohoo!! vids will come today or tomorrow as long as there are no unforseen problems on the road test.

sir i bow down to you. you have done an amazing job with that car. some1 who wouldnt know any better would think its a factory option :rolleyes:

sir i bow down to you. you have done an amazing job with that car. some1 who wouldnt know any better would think its a factory option :rolleyes:

thank you very much. it's the great support from people like you that strengthens my will to build.

well...I just got back from the test drive. It's snowing here, has been for 2 weeks. driveway was sorta difficult to get out of, lol. but she made it onto the road and performed flawlessly. no leaks, no squeeks, no rattles (above normal lol).

Boost. OMFG. 5 psi at light throttle/barely above idle. 10 psi light cruise, 15 psi at half throttle. InSTANT BOOST everywhere. TOO much actually :(. It's ok I am gonna plumb the my Synapse 40 mm external gate into the hotpipe to limit max boost. More work to get it set. The mech actuator is doing its job.

the sound....I can't and never will be able to explain in words. so only a vid will do. EDIT: should I risk my safety to go for another test drive or patiently wait clicking refresh on weather . coms website trying to figure out when I can drive? are there any other choices?

i do belive this calls for a group high five moment :D

^cheers :beerchug:

here's some final pics after a nice bath and wax. front suspension is unsettled. also the missing piece, the exhaust....
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03275.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03265.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03278.jpg

I love how the exhaust is about, what 2-3 feet long? If its legal Id leave it like that!

Justin

I love how the exhaust is about, what 2-3 feet long? If its legal Id leave it like that!

Justin

yep. my only excuse is that it keeps the egts low, well that's what I'll tell the cop that pulls me over. but yes, it's legal per my local requirements.

well, it's STILL snowing here. BUT I drove the car for an hour and a half, maybe more I lost track of time. stopped at a couple friends houses to B.S. a little. roads still had some snow, (township city plowing sucks), but F-it, the car did VERY well.

found out my mech actuator is indeed binding. why/how, cause I checked the actuation with my air comp which is 150 psi, before the fab to the turbo began. So I have to reduce the friction, but I still believe the actuator will not be enough to overcome the force it needs. time to adjust and try to free it up some. but no matter what the Synapse external gate will have to be used in combo.

gosh I can brake stall to 10psi beofre the tires/brakes let loose.

i"ll stop ramblin. "lord I was born a ramblin man, try to make a livin and doin the best I can"

short hot idle vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv88670BGe8
update: so far no heat issues. ambient 20 deg cold helps. all surrounding parts stay cool. much more air flow over the front, never turned on e-fans yet. freed up the actuator some, still working on that.

15 psi at 2200 rpms, holds it to 2800 then it lets go and starts hunting for 20+ before reaching 3400. of course I let out quickly. the boost gauge moves faster than the pedal! the torque is always there but it seems the Db2 pump has a hard time supplying fuel down low. it runs without hesistation and the power delivery is VERY smooth and manageable. seems the engine runs better? hmm...
I still am only on a 1/4 turn with the db2-4911. doing everything I can to avoid addding the external 'gate.

I am very happy with the turbo and highly recommend it to anyone looking for an inexpensive alternative to the GM-x series. get 'em while their cheap!!!
ebay scoobythe coreman. I was lucky and got a good one.

sorry i cut the last vid short. here's another...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKZwmfwpM2o
and some pics from today...
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03288.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03286.jpg

very nice. both in sound and looks :D

I can imagine you'll want to put a muffler on that after too long :)

My turbo and exhaust was really loud straight piped, I couldnt stand it on trips longer than 20 minutes.

i thought a turbo was a muffler? :confused: lol. plus I am without a radio, so the engine is the music to my ears.

long overdue, I made one final "mod" to show my support for this place. I have to thank all who have helped me in the past. This place means alot to me, great info, great people, I could go on....
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03294.jpg

on that note...I would like to officially close this thread. I finally got the car built how I want...for now. Any mods/updates done to the Camaro will be started in new threads.

Well I watched your videos (even though my sound doesn't work) and the exhaust looks great. I really like how you routed the intake tubing, nice smooth bends :D Do you think this new setup will help your fuel mileage at all? And I know I've said this a lot, but very nice work Cody, your car just keeps getting better and better :)

Re-opened at the request of the OP. Can't wait to see what he's got planning next. :D

thanks Dave,

I have decided to keep the car as of now. As of way of preventing myself from selling it, it's going under the knife for surgery.

Plans:
-route exhaust to the back of the car, muffled in some way
-buy rebuilt db2 pump since mine has been having no hot start conditions for 3 months, still running though.
-get my VGT turbo singing better
and the big one
-a manual transmission swap

I have pondered a manual trans in this car for sometime. Even have had the 6speed pedal assembly in my storage area for about a year. so, obviously this has been on my mind for awhile.

Cost is projected to be about $1000, which includesmoney made from 4l80e related parts I will sell.

What I will need:
-pedal assembly (have)
-slave cylinder ($100)
-clutch master($100)/quick bleed line
-bellhousing is the same pattern
-custom flywheel.
-trans crossmember(easy free fab work for me!) lol
-driveshaft will need a new yoke
-hole for shifter(buzz saw free)
-shifter/ball (will be oem short shifter)($100)
-trans umm....a few choices.....
Lt1 T56 trans, Zf-6 speed trans, still haven't eliminated using nv4500 too, and LS1 style t56

4L80e length is 32 11/16" for the 2wd truck trans.
LT1 T56 is 31.3" overall
LS1 T56 is 31.9 overall
Zf-6 ???"

so driveshaft shouldn't have to be cut. I can make up for the difference easily elsewhere.

the hardest part about this swap is finding an appropriate clutch and flywheel assembly. and also just as important, the spacing between the slave cylinder/throwout bearing and clutch pressure plate arms. This is vital to having a clutch that applys and disengages properly. not sure what i will do with the pilot bearing and input shaft in the crank end.

Note to myself: I have an Ls2 gto flywheel and an 6.5 flexplate i should compare dimensions, starter teeth#, backspacing. I will probably have to make some kind of hybrid flywheel combining the diameter/bolt pattern of the nv4500/6.5 flywheel with the clutch/PP of a T56. something like that....

more notes to me: I have a 6.5 shortblock and 5.3L gasser(same crank end as ls1) I should compare crankshaft ends and especially pilot bearing/input shaft obstacles.

I am very excited to get started, just gathering funds now.

this should greatly benefit the driving experience and mpg.

http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/united_states/corporate_replacement_parts_1/service_portfolio/lcv/S6-650_Spec_Sheet.pdf

going off that pdf, the ZF6 is slightly shorter than your 4L80E at 31.1" in total length.

^thanks bud!^

at the risk of getting in over my head I am going to rebuild my motor mounts from solid to a polyurethane mount of my own design during the trans conversion. I am sick of the vibration throughout the car. This may require an aftermarket k-member. if so...

The light k-member(-30lb) combined with the weight saved with going from heavy 4l80e to an aluminum case manual will do some good.

looking into Spohn, UMI, and BMR for a quality part. this step may be cancelled depending on cost.

Your vibration will probably be cut down when you put a muffler on it and put pipe out the back. Every time I made air intake more efficient, or opened up the exhaust more, less restrictive turbo, engine got louder. Unbalanced injectors can make it vibrate. Lower pop pressure injectors can make it run smoother, although not good for power and EGTs. Could try a set of injectors set to 1900psi pop and balanced. But I prefer a higher pop of like 2200-2300psi, although it make it have that diesel rattle.

Hey I'm new and usually over at CompD or CumminsForum. But what happened to this build, is he still around?

Hey I'm new and usually over at CompD or CumminsForum. But what happened to this build, is he still around?

He's still around.... He had a connecting rod let go on the 6.5..... He parted the engine out so I don't know what he has in there, or what his plans for it are now...

Just when I thought I had something special!!

Very cool set up. I was have been kicking around the idea of trying to cram a 6.5 in the front of a old 3rd gen sitting at the house but i could have never even conceived what you have built here. AMAZING

I was have been kicking around the idea of trying to cram a 6.5 in the front of a old 3rd gen
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4461703#post4461703

@ Rafedial1 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/member.php?u=57920)

with the TCI controller what do you need to do to install it? is it very difficult and in my case with my 4l80E out of a 97 2500 what do i do with the existing harness? or is it used?