Well it all started when I was driving to a powder puff game for my highschool. I was driving and all of a sudden my truck started to vibrate really bad. This was the first time something had happened like this so I had no idea what was going on. The truck began to vibrate and shake even worse so I put it in neutral and pulled on to a smaller street. I put it back in drive and then it happened, the driveshaft disconnected from the u joints and dented my exhaust in half and lowered my tank about 3 inches. I got out to check my truck and the driveshaft was totally broken. The u joints were worn down past the caps. I then decided to use my belt to hold the driveshaft and drove the truck to my house in 4 wheel drive which worked surprisingly well. I have a good idea that the bully dog power pup had a lot to do with the damage. I have the 155 hp option but drove the truck on the 90 hp setting unless off-road. I was just wondering if there is any way to spot weld the drive shaft and just replace the u joints with new ones? Any ideas on how to fix a broken driveshaft would be much appreciated.

Spot weld the shaft? I think you'd be a lot farther ahead to either have a driveline shop rebuild your shaft (which would be pricey) or find a salvage yard with a used driveshaft for it...

There's nothing you can do yourself.

The driveshaft is probally dented or atleast out of balance and you know what that feels like.

Take the driveshaft to a driveshaft shop so they can check too see if it's still straight and balanced and they can install new u-joints.

You're very lucky that was all it did. Driveshafts are very dangerous when they let loose.

Don't try to band-aid it. Check all other driveline components, and replace broken parts with new or "checked" used parts. Yeah, it might cost a few bucks, but next time it might get real expensive or worse.

This isn't a common thing right guys?

to keep this from happening, whats the best u-joints to go with. with all the power some of these guys are running its been pretty quiet about u-joints on here.

Yeah, too quiet.

I've always been a fan of spicer joints....

ive heard precisions name tossed around by local guys. another thing is does anybody make driveshaft loops for these trucks.

Yeah Tomac has some purty looking ones.

Did I see something mentioned about the joints worn so bad it wore through the caps?

Sounds like they were bad for a while. Should have been vibrating and clicking for a long time...

Yeah Tomac has some purty looking ones.
Uh......um......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/lol.gif

nar
"Sounds like they were bad for a while. Should have been vibrating and clicking for a long time..."


Actually the only thing I noticed was a squeaking noise from the rear for about two days before. I would have obviously done something about it but I do not know how to remove the driveshaft and u joints to check the wear.

Thanks for all the tips, I think I'm just going to take it to a transmission shop and have the driveshaft reinforced and balanced. And in the mean time I'm going to be looking for a used driveshaft from a salvage yard.

I don't know about the Dmax but if I had bought my Blazer, driveshaft from the stealer it would have saved me like $200 if I put it in my self.

Don't Forget About The Front Drive Shaft!!!!!!!!!!
Get It Checked Too

When you hear the sqeeking noise, that tells you that the round needles are now square and rusty. They tend to make more noise when turning a corner. At this point something is going to break real soon.
mike

When you have it rebuilt, there will probably have zerts on the new ujoint. Grease is a good thing.

Yeah, but what brand are they (spicer....?). Also grease or non-greasable.
I have heard the non-greasables are stronger, but wear out quicker (ASSuming same brand/grade).....is this another wive's tail.

There are some other folks with serious HP/Torque (i.e. SuperDiesel). I wonder what they are running.

I've broken a few while truck pulling and it's like a :nutkick:

Driveshaft/U-joint loops help contain the damage, but quality joints are vehicle saver.

I have had good luck with Spicer Non-Greasables. That's what High Angle driveline put in mine when I asked for "their" best D/D u-joints.


Yeah Tomac has some purty looking ones.

this is the first one i have heard of that was not at the pulls.

Greasable ujoints are hollow. Not acceptable period.

I like the ones where the zerks are in the caps. Stronger but also greasable. Not sure where to get those though.

My father has an 04 D/A and he doesn't have any add-ons. He prefers to keep his truck bone stock and the dealership takes care of all his work, all warrenty so far. But last week I talked to him and he said his truck was in the shop with only 15,000 miles on it having the U-joints replaced. He had one break on him and if it broke on him there was something majorly wrong with it to begin with. He babies that truck. Just thought some of you might like to know that u-joints can go out even with no heavy loads.
Jeff

Greasable ujoints are hollow. Not acceptable period.
Ditto that.

Im having all of these same issues...noises..chattering...shimmies....what joints would yall recommend replacing them with?

IMHO I would use only OEM ujoints from the dealer in my truck. With the power we are putting down and the racing and sled pulling I would be afraid of anything else.
mike