http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALLISON-1000-DURAMAX-DIESEL-BILLET-TORQUE-CONVERTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c 66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7 c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem260350429373QQitemZ260350429373QQptZMotorsQ5 fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Just wondering what you guys think about this converter. I fried my stock converter and am in need of a new one but with this economy im just trying to save a buck or two. The reason that I am not going to do a whole suncoast build is because the clutches and internal parts are fine, its just that the Converter is shot and I only plan on running a 90HP tune on it, nothing more. Just looking for some input on this converter, is it anything to look into or am I better off just spending the money and going with a SC 1057.

Eric

I called the guy from that shop that builds those converters. He said your just paying for the paint on those other converters. I going to send mine in this spring. I seems like a a realy good deal. Let me know how it goes.

Yea I think im going to try this Converter out and see how it goes, seems like a pretty good deal. Ill let you know what happens.

Ya please do.. Thats a major savings! Maybe Mike L will chime in

Just called them and ordered the converter, should be here by the end of the week:D. After talking to the guy for a little while he told me that with the mods I have on my truck hes going to lower the stall 200 from stock. Seemed to know what he was talking about and he said (like team blue said earlier), your paying for paint on other coverters. I am getting it installed as soon at it comes in so I will keep everyone updated on how things go.

Eric

Just called them and ordered the converter, should be here by the end of the week:D. After talking to the guy for a little while he told me that with the mods I have on my truck hes going to lower the stall 200 from stock. Seemed to know what he was talking about and he said (like team blue said earlier), your paying for paint on other coverters. I am getting it installed as soon at it comes in so I will keep everyone updated on how things go.

Eric

What kind of mods do you have on your truck? Is the rest of your trans stock? Wonder why he limits that converter to 1000ft lbs?

Did you have to send your old converter to him? What was the total price with shipping?

I dont have too many mods on my truck.. I have a 4 inch turbo back exhaust, an intake and the quad set on the 90 tune and the 110 on occasion. Not sure what the HP/TQ numbers are but enough to fry the stock torque converter. My tranny is 100 percent stock right now. When I called him he said that all though it says 1000ft lbs of torque I should be able to run tons of power through it. Now he does have another converter just like the one I bought but it has unlimited Torque, I just have no need for this converter as I wont be getting to 1000 ft lbs any time soon with stock clutches and so on. Heres the link for the unlimited Converter... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALLISON-1000-FOUR-DISC-LOCKUP-EXTREME-TORQUE-CONVERTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c 66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7 c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem260351406616QQitemZ260351406616QQptZMotorsQ5 fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

As far as price, right now I paid 599 plus the 350 core charge and 55 shipping. Now he told me that if I send my old Converter back I will have to pay 50 for shipping but will get my 350 core charge back which i plan to do. So all in all I will be paying the 600 for the converter and then 55 dollars to ship each way. Total is 710 in the end, not bad if you ask me.

I was also looking at these converters they said they have a 1 year warranty on them as well so that is a plus. I was actually going to post this same thread later to find out what the feelings were on these.

Thats one realy good deal. Sounds like the way to go.

600 bucks for a new triple disc converter? A suncoast triple disc is 1200.

you know if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. There is a reason a suncoast converter is twice as expensive.

If you ask mike his opinion on those I guarantee he will take one quick look and say its junk.

Do it nice or do it twice, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. I learned this the hard way, I built my motor with second rate aftermarket rods, because they were cheaper, duh, why wouldnt I want to save money? Well they turned out to be pieces of shit and broke, destroyed my whole motor and I pissed away thousands of dollars because I thought it would be clever to save 700 dollars (over the cost of the proven Crower aftermarket rods)

Do what you want, but I wouldnt touch that 600 dollar piece of crap with a 10 foot pole...

JMO

ben

I'm not sure, but I know one of the "cheaper" converter builders was using imported front covers, hence the difference in price. They cut the cost somewhere, its just hard to say exactly how.

I know its a risk that im taking but right now its really my only option as I do not have to money for a SC 1057. Hopeing that Mike L. will chime in and either tell me that its a good buy or just a POS and a waste of money, cant wait lol. Hope that I dont get myself in the good old do it right or do it twice situation, has happened one too many times.

As said earlier, I wonder too what they do to cut the price in half from a suncost Converter or does suncoast really charge that much more because of their excellent reputation with their built Trannys and Converters.

you are also buying 5+ extra years of allison experience over these new johnny-come-lately guys. Making an effective allison converter is nothing like making any other auto trans converter. As I first said, these guys are starting right now where suncoast was 5 years ago.

who is building the transmission? Im in upstate NY too, Ill build it for you. :D

ben

Haha I an not having the Tranny built, just installing the new Converter as the clutches and internal parts are good. I dont plan on running too much power through it, just the quad set at 90. As far as installing the new Converter, I will probably just be doing that with my dad as he has worked for GM for over 30 years.

If thats all the power your making then just put another stock converter in there.

Looks like a cheap ass rebuild. May be ok, but I'd never buy one of those things. Also check the warranty and how it's worded. You don't have to spend what a 1057 costs, that's Suncoast's most expensive converter. Their other ones are quite a bit less.

Haha I an not having the Tranny built, just installing the new Converter as the clutches and internal parts are good. I dont plan on running too much power through it, just the quad set at 90. As far as installing the new Converter, I will probably just be doing that with my dad as he has worked for GM for over 30 years.

while you have the tranny out it would be silly to put it back in without a transgo shift kit at the minimum.

hope its works. let up know how it is.

Ben, Do you mean a Full Transgo and how hard are they to install?

You can't seriously think that you have torn out a stock covt and expect the tranny to not be far behind. You say the internal disks are fine but you have never looked at them. I would bet $100 that C2 is at least burnt. You are going to pull the thing out and redo it another 6 months when spring play time takes it's toll on things. I burnt a few packs of mine and my stock convt was fine with 181k miles on it. I have a full scan tool with enhanced parameters and can monitor slip.

I would be interested in what clutch material that is in the convt he is building. They do make a few types for standard truck convt. Kevlar is one material i have seen. I know that some corners are being cut to half the price. Just toss the dice and see if you get snake eyes or not. Most on here would not risk running clutch material thru a trans and messing up the valve body, front pump, etc. That is a very expensive risk to take.

the price does not always mean its cheap. it could be a company trying to get n to the market. just like ats and suncost did at one timeand when they had there name out there the moved on to other products and had the name on it and could name there own price just like ats did. just my 2 cents but it can be cheap thats the chance you have to take

the price does not always mean its cheap. it could be a company trying to get n to the market. just like ats and suncost did at one timeand when they had there name out there the moved on to other products and had the name on it and could name there own price just like ats did. just my 2 cents but it can be cheap thats the chance you have to take

Exactly, when I called the guy I asked why his Converter was so much less than an ATS or Suncost and he told me that they are new to ebay and trying to build up their positive feedback. He said that hes been doing tranny work for a long time but recently started to sell his products online instead of just at the shop. I know im still taking a big risk with this one but we will see how things go. Hoping for the best.

I think some of these people are brain washed by big names and flashy stickers. I think your making a good decision. Just trying to save some money in the rough times we all are in. Sounds pretty smart to me!!

I think some of these people are brain washed by big names and flashy stickers. I think your making a good decision. Just trying to save some money in the rough times we all are in. Sounds pretty smart to me!!

Generic non-name-brand shit is ALWAYS inferior, I dont care what the circumstances are or otherwise. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Brain washed and flashy stickers?? This is a big investment, R&R of an allison isnt cheap, so say he buys this great new 600 dollar POS allison converter, pulls the tranny out, and it lasts fine for 10k miles. Then it blows up. SO what then? You have to pull the trans again wasting money on R&R, not to mention the cost of ANOTHER converter. Meanwhile in the long run the guy who bought the legit name brand converters is still sailing along smooth, having ended up spending a lot less. Whos the one saving money now??????

Maybe you need a visual. I built a duramax for myself (yes, myself; im not talking out of my ass). Crower rods are expensive. They are name brand. They have flashy stickers, and all the big guys run them. But I "made a good decision, and tried to save some money in the rough times", and bought generic non-name-brand rods. They were like 700 bucks less than Crowers. Pretty smart huh? Yeah I thought so. Until 15,000 miles later when I was cruising down the highway and those pieces of shit broke and destroyed my whole motor. My truck was down for 3 months because I didnt have enough money/time to put it back together. My truck is my daily driver; I dont have another vehicle. So tell me in your expert opinion, in my case, would spending an extra 700 dollars have been worth it to not go through LOTS AND LOT of lost money, 3 months of no truck, and 100 hours of my own time busting knuckles and sleeping in grease putting my truck back together? Oh yeah, im back to a STOCK motor now because I didnt have enough money to put together another built motor. I saved up and put my blood sweat and tears into my original built motor, and I was only able to enjoy benefit/pleasure/satisfaction of having a built motor for 15,000 miles. All over a stupid 700 bucks.

Im really sorry, I dont mean to derail this thread, but I just feel really strongly about stuff like this having learned my lesson the hard way, and Id hate to see someone in the same situation I was in. ;)

If you dont have the money to buy the real deal, then DONT DO ANYTHING AT ALL. Put the truck back to a stock tune, dont beat on it, and save your pennys for an extra 2 months or so, and THEN buy a name-brand converter from a company that has been proven in the dmax world for the past 6 years. :)

ben

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/penguin1494/IMG_6702Custom.jpg

3 things concern me with a cheap converter , first is the billit cover one of the biggest ways to save money is to use chinese steel why do you think bens rods failed probably inproper alloy content in the metal ( just a guess ), billit or not if the alloy content is not there there is no streingth i dont care if there are three clutches in there if the cover flexes there is no contact area for the clutches to hold wich is the problem with the stock converter . secound if they use a cheap stator and it fails . third is if they use a cheap sprag and it fails . not bashing this product for i have never used it but the list goes on and on of secound rate parts that could fail but its your $ spend it how you will . my hard earned money will go to companies that sell top shelf products not cheap knock offs .jmop

I know I built a 4L60E 2 years ago and put a built 350 towing motor in front of it. I got my parts through one of these shops that does mostly mail order. Well 9,000 miles later the converter let loose and took out EVERYTHING with it. If I had spent the extra $500-600 the first time on parts that I knew were ACTUALLY what I needed, I wouldn't have had to build it again. The second time it got ful on HD clutches from a reputeable shop and a SUNCOAST converter. There is NO comparison between a SUNCOAST and a stock or even a mild converter. This was just there basic stock replacement line that a few dealers down here sell(but it is a genuine SUNCOAST), and you can't believe the difference between it and a stock one for the thickness of the cover and quality of construction in the welds. I'm happy as can be with the tranny now, but it would have been nice to have done it right the first time.

There's an old saying that applies here, "We build em so nice we build em twice".

I think some of these people are brain washed by big names and flashy stickers. I think your making a good decision. Just trying to save some money in the rough times we all are in. Sounds pretty smart to me!!

I don't know where you get the "flashy stickers" thing, and even big name stuff doesn't always live up to the hype. But generally the big names become big names because their stuff is good and it works. There are no giveaways. Over the years I've been suckered a few times by low price and whether it was automotive or tools or firearm-related or fishing, every one of those products turned out to be low quality. Some of them were pure junk. What you don't want is for this thing to take a crap after 6mos or a year and need re-doing. These guys make rebuilt convertors for everything that may or may not work ok, but a V-6 passenger car isn't the same as a diesel truck. Also notice on that ebay listing there's NO company name and NO location. And if you read the warranty you'll see that it's worthless.

Generic non-name-brand shit is ALWAYS inferior, I dont care what the circumstances are or otherwise. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Brain washed and flashy stickers?? This is a big investment, R&R of an allison isnt cheap, so say he buys this great new 600 dollar POS allison converter, pulls the tranny out, and it lasts fine for 10k miles. Then it blows up. SO what then? You have to pull the trans again wasting money on R&R, not to mention the cost of ANOTHER converter. Meanwhile in the long run the guy who bought the legit name brand converters is still sailing along smooth, having ended up spending a lot less. Whos the one saving money now??????

Maybe you need a visual. I built a duramax for myself (yes, myself; im not talking out of my ass). Crower rods are expensive. They are name brand. They have flashy stickers, and all the big guys run them. But I "made a good decision, and tried to save some money in the rough times", and bought generic non-name-brand rods. They were like 700 bucks less than Crowers. Pretty smart huh? Yeah I thought so. Until 15,000 miles later when I was cruising down the highway and those pieces of shit broke and destroyed my whole motor. My truck was down for 3 months because I didnt have enough money/time to put it back together. My truck is my daily driver; I dont have another vehicle. So tell me in your expert opinion, in my case, would spending an extra 700 dollars have been worth it to not go through LOTS AND LOT of lost money, 3 months of no truck, and 100 hours of my own time busting knuckles and sleeping in grease putting my truck back together? Oh yeah, im back to a STOCK motor now because I didnt have enough money to put together another built motor. I saved up and put my blood sweat and tears into my original built motor, and I was only able to enjoy benefit/pleasure/satisfaction of having a built motor for 15,000 miles. All over a stupid 700 bucks.

Im really sorry, I dont mean to derail this thread, but I just feel really strongly about stuff like this having learned my lesson the hard way, and Id hate to see someone in the same situation I was in. ;)

If you dont have the money to buy the real deal, then DONT DO ANYTHING AT ALL. Put the truck back to a stock tune, dont beat on it, and save your pennys for an extra 2 months or so, and THEN buy a name-brand converter from a company that has been proven in the dmax world for the past 6 years. :)

ben

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/penguin1494/IMG_6702Custom.jpg
I don't think that could have been a better example than what Ben said here. Another thing to consider is if the cheaper converter fails in a bad way not only are you out a converter but my junk some of the exspensive internals as well. Then again maybe it will be fine but the gamble could cost you a ton in the end.

I have no idea wether that converter is any good or not. I can tell you that a quality billet cover with clutch kit bought by most converter shops, (very few can build their own ) costs them over 300.00. Then you have assembly costs. How can they do it?

If he is going to give you a good warranty, go for it and report back to use. I'm always looking for cheap alternatives that work.

If he is going to give you a good warranty, go for it and report back to use. I'm always looking for cheap alternatives that work.


Ya a warranty, but on his page it didn't really say much about warranty.

Ya a warranty, but on his page it didn't really say much about warranty.

I talked to the guy and he said its a 1 year warranty so thats a plus

I talked to the guy and he said its a 1 year warranty so thats a plus

One year warranty tells me he is unsure of his converter. Don't be suprised if it fails and he tells you abused it. The good converter companys warranty the converter no matter what happens. I don't buy cheap no matter what.

I say go for it. It's capitalism at work. All this buy the internet popularity stuff is just like the cummins guys with their southbend clutches.

It's not a popularity contest. It's more about doing it once not buying a cheap one that fails then your doing it again and possibly more damage than just the converter alone. I'm not here to tell anyone to buy the most exspensive thing out there cause it's the best but you might want to talk to people who do this everyday for a living and get their input and go from there.

If you want to take a chance on, then that is your business. If you want to get a guage as to wether or not it is any good before buying, try and find some shops that use his product and talk to them and see what they have to say. Try and find some sort of actual evidence of them actually being used by people, and not just another EBAY gem. If you can't find any shops that use his products, then they should be an indication of his quality. SUNCOASTS stuff is pricey, but you just don't hear about there stuff grenading or causing failures.

I have no idea wether that converter is any good or not. I can tell you that a quality billet cover with clutch kit bought by most converter shops, (very few can build their own ) costs them over 300.00. Then you have assembly costs. How can they do it?


If the cover is the same quality as SC, ATS, Precision, and so on, what internals could they have skimped on that might make this converter of lower quality than the the rest?

There has got to be someone out there that has used one of these converters I'm not one to buy cheap stuff but I'll guarantee I'm going to find out some peoples personal experiences with a lower priced product before I shell out 700 extra bucks for another brand. If they don't have good feedback oh well its only 700 bucks extra to get the good one so I'll buy that but if they do I'll probably give one a try.

I belive Nick(vortecfcar) has an off brand converter in his truck but I could be wrong.

So buy it and find out.

Quote:

All items come with a 12 Month Warranty. This warranty covers the part only. We will not pay for any labor, shipping, or other fees associated with the failure of any product, this includes product that may be defective on initial install. Regardless of failure reason!!

From the statement above alone i would not buy these converters.Any one that will not even stand behind a product that has not even been installed tells me that either he is using shit parts or does not know what he is doing.

Look here guys. There are some great converter rebuilders out there that make a kick ass products that have never been heard of. Do you know which ones they are? Neither do I.
In my shop I handle your hard earned money and am expected to give you the best. I do that to the best of my ability. I am familiar with a lot of converter companys and know what they do. I don't know this one and stay clear. I go with what I know for sure.
I don't think any of us are trying to say this shop is inferior. We are just saying be carefull. 600.00 will NOT get you a top of the line converter. Period.

very well said Mike

Maybe 600 will get a great converter for most people. Maybe not a converter with the "this converter has no limits" claim.

This guy sells more than a 600 converter he also sell a no limit conveter for more $$ I just sent the guy a e-mail about getting some information on his converters. If you are looking for a better than stock converter it a great deal. Not every one run high tunes and big hp.

Another thing, I still have the stock tanny and tq. converter in my truck with 122,000 miles with a mild tune. I run the piss out of it. I drag race, truck pulls, and pull fords a dodges around the parking lot. So if the stock converter is junk this should work just fine for someone like me who wants to add a little more power to his or her ride......

This is a quote from the converter guy......We try to stay out of this stuff as it just turns into a pissing match back and forth and nothing good tends to come from it. We do not talk down about our competitors, as this is poor business. Our products are superior, and our customers do our advertising for us, just as you and these other posters have begun to do. The product when you install it will be superior and I believe that you will be 110% satisfied. Every review of our product that we have seen has been nothing less than stellar, and time will only get more and more of these positive reviews out there. We appreciate your support and hope that we can earn your present and future referrals.

PS, We are the only manufacture that we know of that actually shows the internals of our converters for all to see, we hide nothing from our customers and try to educate them so they know what they are buying.....

Thank You

So give this man a call if you have some questions.. e-mail transconverters@gmail.com Call 877-780-4334

So give this man a call if you have some questions.. e-mail transconverters@gmail.com Call 877-780-4334
You already have your mind made up, buy your cheap converter and let us know how you like it. We dont need you to make up our minds for us.:rolleyes:

Theres nothing wrong with saving money only when products are of good quality . I saved my money to do it right and do it once.

I sleep just fine never worring about my Trans/Converter.

Our products are superior, and our customers do our advertising for us, just as you and these other posters have begun to do. The product when you install it will be superior and I believe that you will be 110% satisfied. Every review of our product that we have seen has been nothing less than stellar, and time will only get more and more of these positive reviews out there. We appreciate your support and hope that we can earn your present and future referrals.

PS, We are the only manufacture that we know of that actually shows the internals of our converters for all to see, we hide nothing from our customers and try to educate them so they know what they are buying.....

Thank You

Id love to see suncoast or ATS respond to this.

So have this great company donate a converter to mcrat, the spruills, bigbird, IBDMAXIN, or any other guys that are putting heavy trucks in the 11 flat to high 10 second range. Lets see how it holds up there. Its only a couple hundred bucks out of their pocket and can you imagine the press it would get them if their converter was actually as good as the suncoast/ats converters for half the price????

ben

You never stop crying do u...... Is this a women or what?

Id love to see suncoast or ATS respond to this.

So have this great company donate a converter to mcrat, the spruills, bigbird, IBDMAXIN, or any other guys that are putting heavy trucks in the 11 flat to high 10 second range. Lets see how it holds up there. Its only a couple hundred bucks out of their pocket and can you imagine the press it would get them if their converter was actually as good as the suncoast/ats converters for half the price????

ben

WTF not everyone has a 11 second truck!!!!

If you do not have Suncoast on this site all you do is hear crap.

have this guy send me a converter. I can swap an allison in an hour or two so its no sweat off my back to throw his new magic converter in. Ill go beat the shit out of it with my truck (which has twins and a different engine than the one that came with it). If it holds up, then Ill gladly eat crow and endorse it in every aftermarket allison thread I come across. :)

ben

You never stop crying do u...... Is this a women or what?

You are the one that sounds like a woman trying to convince everyone you made the right choice. You make it sound like it's your first piece of ass and you want everyone to tell you it's ok to spread your legs. Why don't you just do it and give a report? Nobody is going to get all hot and bothered over an EBAY converter.

have this guy send me a converter. I can swap an allison in an hour or two so its no sweat off my back to throw his new magic converter in. Ill go beat the shit out of it with my truck (which has twins and a different engine than the one that came with it). If it holds up, then Ill gladly eat crow and endorse it in every aftermarket allison thread I come across. :)

ben
But Ben, your truck is "stock"...:)

TB 450. I hope your avatar is not a pic of things to come. U get what u pay 4

TB 450. I hope your avatar is not a pic of things to come. U get what u pay 4

HAHAHA that's funny as hell

just take it easy on the guy he just asked if it was any good and no one knows.

so if you buy it let us know how it lays down the power and hold up.

as far ats and suncost ya they build great converters but they had to start some wear. to get were there at now so let a underdog have a shot at the market. you may never know it may be the next great part you buy.

just my 2 cens

The Converter came in today, Hoping to have it installed by the end of the weekend.

The Converter came in today, Hoping to have it installed by the end of the weekend.

I can't wait. Good luck.

even when you install it though...it will probably "feel great". But to give it a real test you'll have to drive it back to back with a suncoast/ats converter IMO.

The Converter came in today, Hoping to have it installed by the end of the weekend.

keep us up to date

Good luck with the converter choice. If it works well, you've made a good decision. Are only suncoast and ats transmissions allowed to talk on here? I'm not saying they aren't great transmissions, but give this guy a chance.

Good luck with the converter choice. If it works well, you've made a good decision. Are only suncoast and ats transmissions allowed to talk on here? I'm not saying they aren't great transmissions, but give this guy a chance.

well said

The real test is longevity under higher hp conditions. Like I said maybe it will last maybe it wont. No converter is indestructable.

I'm not saying this converter is worth the box it's shipped in, BUT I will say that diesel parts in general are rediculously priced when compared to anything you can buy for gas engines. I'm not comparing stock gas parts to billet diesel parts, I can get a complete rotating assembly that's good for over 1,000 HP for the same price you can get a set of rods for a duramax. That just doesn't make sense.

This is a relatively new market, and folks are charging an arm and a leg for stuff as they have a lot of engineering costs to recoup. Metal is metal, you can only put it together in so many ways.

how do you know the clutches are fine if you havent torn the tranny down??

there is so much more R&D that goes into diesel engine hard parts. The stresses and forces at play in a high hp gas engine are laughable by diesel standards. The parts have to be much bigger as well, so you pay for extra cost in material as well.

ben

It doesn't matter what the forces involved are, the engineering process is the same wheather it's a rod for a small block or a rod for a diesel. The force is just a number plugged into the design. The cost of material is probably less than 20% of the overall cost of the goods and we are only talking a difference in ounces of material between a diesel rod and a BB chevy rod.

I wouldn't be so brash to say a diesel engine making 1000 ft/lb's at 4,000 rpm is "harder" on parts than a gas engine making a 1000 hp at 7,000 rpm. centrifigal forces end up being one of the major players in rod failure.

My point is that the diesel performance market is in it's infancy and manufacturers don't know if it will last. So when they jump in they want to recoup their engineering costs as quickly as possible just in case the market dries up like the import "tuner" market did. I'd like to know how bad these guys got hurt making aftermarket rods, pistons, and even blocks for the Honda boys.

I'm not supporting this converter maker, I wouldn't run it as it's unproven. I'm also not going to call the product junk just because it's cheaper. This guy may be a very sharp cookie and figured out exactly what needs to be done to build a good converter, although the odds are against him.

It doesn't matter what the forces involved are, the engineering process is the same wheather it's a rod for a small block or a rod for a diesel. The force is just a number plugged into the design. The cost of material is probably less than 20% of the overall cost of the goods and we are only talking a difference in ounces of material between a diesel rod and a BB chevy rod.

I wouldn't be so brash to say a diesel engine making 1000 ft/lb's at 4,000 rpm is "harder" on parts than a gas engine making a 1000 hp at 7,000 rpm. centrifigal forces end up being one of the major players in rod failure.

My point is that the diesel performance market is in it's infancy and manufacturers don't know if it will last. So when they jump in they want to recoup their engineering costs as quickly as possible just in case the market dries up like the import "tuner" market did. I'd like to know how bad these guys got hurt making aftermarket rods, pistons, and even blocks for the Honda boys.

Look at DuramaxTuner's rods (the ones I was running). He "plugged in the force numbers", added 20% more material, used gasser rod design knowledge and look where it got him. :rolleyes:

Sorry Im just incredibly bitter when I see guys trying to save money and buy second rate unproven parts. Because Ive been down that road and it was a dead end in a bad way.

ben

It doesn't matter what the forces involved are, the engineering process is the same wheather it's a rod for a small block or a rod for a diesel. The force is just a number plugged into the design. The cost of material is probably less than 20% of the overall cost of the goods and we are only talking a difference in ounces of material between a diesel rod and a BB chevy rod.

I wouldn't be so brash to say a diesel engine making 1000 ft/lb's at 4,000 rpm is "harder" on parts than a gas engine making a 1000 hp at 7,000 rpm. centrifigal forces end up being one of the major players in rod failure.

My point is that the diesel performance market is in it's infancy and manufacturers don't know if it will last. So when they jump in they want to recoup their engineering costs as quickly as possible just in case the market dries up like the import "tuner" market did. I'd like to know how bad these guys got hurt making aftermarket rods, pistons, and even blocks for the Honda boys.

I'm not supporting this converter maker, I wouldn't run it as it's unproven. I'm also not going to call the product junk just because it's cheaper. This guy may be a very sharp cookie and figured out exactly what needs to be done to build a good converter, although the odds are against him.

Your post here shows how much you don't know. You want to show how smart you are but you don't have the tools. No matter how much and how long you hang out at these forums , and no matter how much you read and absorb info; you don't know squat.
None of the big converter guys are looking to recoup their loss on projects. This is a necessary loss to learn and try and stay ahead of the competition. These guys don't bitch one bit for sending converters overnight time and time again on their dime to get it right. Ask me how I know.
I install mods on trucks time and time agian till I get it right and don't complain about the cost. There is no hidden agenda to recoup my loss in case of failure.
Now, the copy cat guys worry a bunch cause they see what we did but don't know why and that worries them. Their thinking is; if Suncoast, Precision, or ATS engineering fails, then what do we do?

Look at DuramaxTuner's rods (the ones I was running). He "plugged in the force numbers", added 20% more material, used gasser rod design knowledge and look where it got him. :rolleyes:

Sorry Im just incredibly bitter when I see guys trying to save money and buy second rate unproven parts. Because Ive been down that road and it was a dead end in a bad way.

ben

Ben
I hope Nick takes care of this situation on his failed rods.

Ben
I hope Nick takes care of this situation on his failed rods.


Huh?? Nick who?

Huh?? Nick who?

I will leave this to Ben. Don't want to get banned twice in two weeks.:D

I will leave this to Ben. Don't want to get banned twice in two weeks.:D


Come on now.. Yall making me nervous. Talking about his rods or his tunes are no good?

Duramax Tuner's rods failed because they were not designed correctly.....not because they were cheap. I'm an engineer by trade, I install 4700 hp Cat engines for a living. I understand what level of engineering is involved in creating a part from a clean sheet of paper. If you guys think parts are "designed" by breaking a bunch of parts till you get it right your sadly mistaken.

Any reputable buisness that does not recoup their "engineering" cost on a new project is doomed to go under. It's simply good buisness to get paid for your time, and lunacy to just "eat it".

Once again I'M NOT DEFENDING THE COPY CAT JUNK out there. I simply stated that picking the most expensive part on the market is not always the best way to pick parts.

Duramax Tuner's rods failed because they were not designed correctly.....not because they were cheap. I'm an engineer by trade, I install 4700 hp Cat engines for a living. I understand what level of engineering is involved in creating a part from a clean sheet of paper. If you guys think parts are "designed" by breaking a bunch of parts till you get it right your sadly mistaken.

haha, "engineer by trade". I love that phrase and how people throw it around because they think its gives them credibility. So, did you graduate from a university with a piece of paper that actually says "degree in mechanical engineering"?? Im not saying you didnt, but I see a lot of people that arent actually engineers, but do "technical and complicated" jobs and they think it makes them a 'mechanical engineer'.

ben

Duramax Tuner's rods failed because they were not designed correctly.....not because they were cheap. I'm an engineer by trade, I install 4700 hp Cat engines for a living. I understand what level of engineering is involved in creating a part from a clean sheet of paper. If you guys think parts are "designed" by breaking a bunch of parts till you get it right your sadly mistaken.

Any reputable buisness that does not recoup their "engineering" cost on a new project is doomed to go under. It's simply good buisness to get paid for your time, and lunacy to just "eat it".

Once again I'M NOT DEFENDING THE COPY CAT JUNK out there. I simply stated that picking the most expensive part on the market is not always the best way to pick parts.

Now that YOU brought this up I feel i can reply. The rods were sold cheap. I recieved quite a few calls asking me what to do and I had no answer except if it looks too good to be true, then it probably is.

Here are some facts Mr. engineer. the well Known companys that build know successfull converters or parts are allready having the billet covers made in India or China to save costs. Metal prices are rediculous. I talk to these guys on a regular basis and they complain that the profit margin is gone because of costs. We all agrree that raising prices will stifle business because of the economy so none of us raise them.
Now we have someone that comes into the picture with a converter at less than half price.
The question now is; are we screwing you with our inflated prices that don't weally give us much profit or, is the other company leaving a lot to be desired. You guys answer the question.

Badabing... Did you get this converter installed yet? I'm eager to hear your initial impressions (and get this thread back on track...)

this gets funnier by the day! Holy *****!

tell me about it.. the converter is being installed right now and I should have the truck back by this afternoon. Ill post back later tonight or tomorrow cause im making a trip later after the converter is installed to go look at a boat. Ill keep everone updated on how things go and how i like it.

Eric

Thats enough out of you Wesley, now sit down and drink the cool-aid!:D

Thats enough out of you Wesley, now sit down and drink the cool-aid!:D
:drinking:Everyone needs a little Captain in them....hickup....! LOL

got the converter in and it feels great, only problem is the grinding noise that I had in
5th gear is still there, guess it wasnt the Converter.. ******!!!. sounds like two things are grinding up against each other, does it from about 55 to 65mph, little bit after shifting into 5th and lockup. Looks like I am going to be doing a rebuild soon. Going with SC III or IV, not sure which one yet tho.

Dont mean to get off topic here but could there be a different problem with the tranny then what the SC rebuild kits have to offer. Dont want to buy a SC III or IV and realize that the problem with the tranny has nothing to do with the upgraded parts that the kits come with. Not too firmiliar with trannys.. Ben or Mike L., im sure you guys can chime in here and help me out. Thanks

Eric

Sounds like it needs to be disassembled and inspected.

Sounds like it needs to be disassembled and inspected.

x2

who told you that the TQ was the problem with the noise. if it did it in 5th i would think it would do it in all the gears. some one jump in if 'm wrong.

You should have told us this from the start and some one could have told you that the TQ would not fix it. That what this form is for to ask questions and get members to reply with yrs of knowlage like Mike L.

got the converter in and it feels great, only problem is the grinding noise that I had in
5th gear is still there, guess it wasnt the Converter.. ******!!!. sounds like two things are grinding up against each other, does it from about 55 to 65mph, little bit after shifting into 5th and lockup. Looks like I am going to be doing a rebuild soon. Going with SC III or IV, not sure which one yet tho.

Dont mean to get off topic here but could there be a different problem with the tranny then what the SC rebuild kits have to offer. Dont want to buy a SC III or IV and realize that the problem with the tranny has nothing to do with the upgraded parts that the kits come with. Not too firmiliar with trannys.. Ben or Mike L., im sure you guys can chime in here and help me out. Thanks

Eric

yes there are many wear components not relaplaced in the suncoast kits.

The thing is, is that i knew that the stock Converter was toast. I could tell because of the tranny heating up so damn quick and that it wouldnt lockup. I was just hoping that the grinding noise was the Converter sliping and not some internal part in the tranny but i guess im going to have to get it taken apart and inspected. anyone know roughly how much a shop or stealership would charge for this and whick am i better off going to? Thanks

Eric

[quote=LMM_Guy;3177913]It doesn't matter what the forces involved are, the engineering process is the same wheather it's a rod for a small block or a rod for a diesel. The force is just a number plugged into the design. The cost of material is probably less than 20% of the overall cost of the goods and we are only talking a difference in ounces of material between a diesel rod and a BB chevy rod.
I wouldn't be so brash to say a diesel engine making 1000 ft/lb's at 4,000 rpm is "harder" on parts than a gas engine making a 1000 hp at 7,000 rpm. centrifigal forces end up being one of the major players in rod failure.

Do you even know what you are saying? It's much easier to make power at higher rpm and it's easier on it. Pro Stock motor 1350+hp@9900+rpm you don't think they do this just because. Besides your 1000hp gasser will only be making 700ishtq

Duramax Tuner's rods failed because they were not designed correctly.....not because they were cheap. I'm an engineer by trade, I install 4700 hp Cat engines for a living. I understand what level of engineering is involved in creating a part from a clean sheet of paper. If you guys think parts are "designed" by breaking a bunch of parts till you get it right your sadly mistaken.

Any reputable buisness that does not recoup their "engineering" cost on a new project is doomed to go under. It's simply good buisness to get paid for your time, and lunacy to just "eat it".

Once again I'M NOT DEFENDING THE COPY CAT JUNK out there. I simply stated that picking the most expensive part on the market is not always the best way to pick parts.



I have to agree this statemnt is rediculous. My test floor mechanics install engines. Now my job on the other hand is hard core engineering design. I DO engineer components and assemblies. I DO have a degree in Mechanical Engineering. I DO know what FEA actually is, and use it daily. I DO engineer over the road emissions level engines used in CAT branded equipement. I DO engineer / build vehicles for several OEMS under their own private label. CAT does not make emmisions level on highway engines anymore, guess who does..... :). I won't say more.

But to the point. A Diesel engine and design is a good 80% differant than any gasser is. ALL OF IT. The load rates are not the same. 1500 ft lb of torque at 1200 RPM is from a long hard burn that lasts several 100 times longer than a gasser. The forces are not even close due to the duration of said forces. That is like driving a 4 cylinder dual over head cam ricer motor that puts out 300 ft lb at 8000 rpm and saying it feels peppy and the same as a small block 350 with the same torque at 2400 rpm. The ricer motor gets torque from momentum only, the small block gets it from several areas, not much form momentum.

For example. A stamping press gets it's power from almost 100% momentum. These units often have a flywheel weighing in at a few thousand pounds. They can often take 15 minutes or more to get up to operating speed of 1200 rpm. But once going they don't stop unless you destroy a die. Dies are often 8-12" thick or more.

I can't believe I read all 10 pages for nothing....that sucks

rite there with ya llycrew05...a nice pissing match between who knows more shit about engine stuff tho when the thread was about the quality of torque converters...lol. interesting to read tho ill give ya all that! meanwhile my stock ally, and converter, and moter are working just fine :).

I just ordered one of these for my LS1 Tahoe project. It's no Duramax, but it should make between 450-475LbFtTq. I will let you all know in a few weeks how it goes. This thread was a 10 page waste of time. Someone should update the first post to STOP reading if you are looking for any useful info. I hope to have some info for you guys in a few weeks. I'll update for sure.

I just ordered one of these for my LS1 Tahoe project. It's no Duramax, but it should make between 450-475LbFtTq. I will let you all know in a few weeks how it goes. This thread was a 10 page waste of time. Someone should update the first post to STOP reading if you are looking for any useful info. I hope to have some info for you guys in a few weeks. I'll update for sure.
That's less than a stock truck puts out, and not even half as much as a good tune only truck puts to the rear wheels.

That's less than a stock truck puts out, and not even half as much as a good tune only truck puts to the rear wheels.
It is for an LS1 450HP engine and 4L65E Transmission. A stock Tahoe even with a good tune might just barely put 285TQ to the wheels.

What did badabing find out about his tranny?.........as a side note Diesel rods are a completely different animal than a racing (drag) rod, or a blown Alchy rod. The design differs with the type of stress you are going to put the rod through. Very complex engineering, stay with the high dollar rods it is cheap insurance.

their warrenty says
"Level 3 converters come with a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty. Should any product become inoperable due to a failure in parts or workmanship we will repair or replace the product at no charge.

**Warranty does not cover failures due to exceeding HP limitations or use of trans brake or nitrous on non upgraded converters or by any abuse. Stall speeds are approximations and will vary with amount of input torque! Warranty is non transferable and void if product is opened by any other person(s). Warranty does not cover damage to other components or labor to replace the product!! **

My question is doesn't the dmax have a trans brake? If so that would void the warrenty wouldn't it? I was going to get one of these but if the warrenty is garbadge that would suck, maybe a precision would be better. Only $329 more and a proven brand with a 2 year warrenty. I called the guy with the ebay converter and he says that they would honor the warrenty for up to 2 years most times. However it is not in print and also the trans brake thing. Does the dmax have a trans brake?

sorry for the double post, the name of the company is RevMaxx performance Converters. Who is running one of these? How do you like it?

My question is doesn't the dmax have a trans brake? If so that would void the warrenty wouldn't it? I was going to get one of these but if the warrenty is garbadge that would suck, maybe a precision would be better. Only $329 more and a proven brand with a 2 year warrenty. I called the guy with the ebay converter and he says that they would honor the warrenty for up to 2 years most times. However it is not in print and also the trans brake thing. Does the dmax have a trans brake?No, the Allison does not have a trans brake. A trans brake is something that is used for drag racing where several clutch packs are engaged at a time to make the transmission hydraulically lock. They are usually used in combination with a throttle stop so a person can hold down a button and stage at full throttle without putting their foot on the brake, then when they're ready to go, they just let go of the button and the trans brake releases. It's hard on converters because you can stage at much higher RPMs on a trans brake than you can with a foot brake. Usually you will push through the brakes before you will hurt a converter, but you can't very easily push through a trans brake without breaking some transmission parts.

.....Does the dmax have a trans brake?
NO, No factory transmission has ever come with a trans brake ever. So to answer your question the Dmax dose not have a Trans Brake.

NO, No factory transmission has ever come with a trans brake ever. So to answer your question the Dmax dose not have a Trans Brake.

I thought my truck had a brake assist, or towing brake assist, or grade braking, for when your going down a grade towing. When I come in my driveway, steep down hill after braking from 45 mph to 5 mph my truck won't coasts down hill it downshifts the transmission and somehow keeps you from speeding up. Or am I smoking crack? LOL thanks for the info guys

I thought my truck had a brake assist, or towing brake assist, or grade braking, for when your going down a grade towing. When I come in my driveway, steep down hill after braking from 45 mph to 5 mph my truck won't coasts down hill it downshifts the transmission and somehow keeps you from speeding up. Or am I smoking crack? LOL thanks for the info guys
That is engine braking.

They have grade braking which is basically just an engine brake as it downshifts to keep the RPM's up and uses the engine as a big air pump which makes it a brake. Some ALLISON's do have a braking unit built into them, but not in the light duty trucks.

No, the Allison does not have a trans brake. A trans brake is something that is used for drag racing where several clutch packs are engaged at a time to make the transmission hydraulically lock. They are usually used in combination with a throttle stop so a person can hold down a button and stage at full throttle without putting their foot on the brake, then when they're ready to go, they just let go of the button and the trans brake releases. It's hard on converters because you can stage at much higher RPMs on a trans brake than you can with a foot brake. Usually you will push through the brakes before you will hurt a converter, but you can't very easily push through a trans brake without breaking some transmission parts.


Most trans-brake's are just an actuator and will put the tranny in reverse while you are still in low gear. That will lock the trans. When you let off the button that actuator will release and your in low gear. This is of course while you are on a two step at a pre-set RPM. Works great.

I thought my truck had a brake assist, or towing brake assist, or grade braking, for when your going down a grade towing. When I come in my driveway, steep down hill after braking from 45 mph to 5 mph my truck won't coasts down hill it downshifts the transmission and somehow keeps you from speeding up. Or am I smoking crack? LOL thanks for the info guys
Did you even read what I wrote?

Did you even read what I wrote?

yes josh, I was justs asking a follow up question. Thanks for the help and have a great day!

Dunno if it was said in plain english but a trans brake puts reverse and first on at the same time to equal out the force and make the car not move no matter how hard u push the throttle. How does that ebay converter run? I still have yet to see some real world testing. Does it stall any higher? Lower? Can you data log to see if it slips? Anything?

Dunno if it was said in plain english but a trans brake puts reverse and first on at the same time to equal out the force and make the car not move no matter how hard u push the throttle. How does that ebay converter run? I still have yet to see some real world testing. Does it stall any higher? Lower? Can you data log to see if it slips? Anything?

unless otherwise specified they come with a 200 rpm lower than stock stall, and are a very tight converter. However you can dictate what stall rpm you like.

Just wanted to update you guys and tell you that the conveter I bought from this guy worked great. I had it on for about 15,000miles behind a 470HP LS1 in my 2006 Tahoe. No issues, sold the truck and now debating buying one for the D-Max.