Ok , i was drivin around today 4 the first time in 4 weeks in my truck and wheni got home i thought i would check the vacuum line to the turbo again and this time it was not working so i need a new pump or do i need it ?

I'm not the sharpest crayon in the box...but bro, first thing you need to do at least is get a boost gauge. I would rather run without a speedometer than a boost gauge. It will come in handy even when trying to figure out problems. I will never own another diesel without putting in a boost gauge.
Of course, there are plenty of ways to figure out if you arent getting vacuum. You will need a vacuum gauge like a mightyvac or something, then start at the pump and work your way up.

With the truck idling, unplug the plastic vacuum lines from the wastegate solenoid and hold your finger over the end of the yellow (green, orange, whatever color it is) line. If there's suction, your vacuum pump is probably working just fine.

When you pulled the vacuum line off the turbo to check for vacuum, your wastegate solenoid could have been "closed" and not allowing vacuum to the turbo actuator. Your truck doesn't need boost at idle.

Actually, from what I have seen when my truck was on a scanner, the PCM demands something like 80% boost at idle, though the turbo isn't producing anything.

If you need a new vacuum pump I saw someone on ebay selling new ones for $75

IMO, it's time to start moding. The vacuum pump whether it's new, used, working or not does exactly what it's supposed to SUCK! Get a turbo-master and a PCM reflash. You won't regret it!

My vac system worked great with my re-flash (20 PSI peaks), but once the pump cratered rather then replace it i just built a homemade WG controler. I couldn't justify buying another pump when its not needed and probably saved $300.

I still prefer computer control over the wastegate. I'd suggest checking vacuum direct from the pump first as it could well just be the solenoid.

The wastegate is closed and no vacuum at the line
CR how did you make your controller?

Have you changed the Wastegate solonoid? It's only about $30Cad. Sounds like this might fix it.

Simple, there's a hole drilled through the bottom of the bolt to hold the spring in place. The pipe must be large enough for the spring to be swallowed up inside it. That bolt is at its limit but i could sustain 16 PSI, when i put the 00 back together i will change the bolt for ready rod (all thread) for more tension and just make it more eye appealing.
DON'T DO THIS WITHOUT BOOST/EGT GAUGES FIRST!

Looks likes a simply build What about the belt do i have to get a smaller one?

Thanks for input
I will be getting a boost gauge

Edwin

I picked up a belt that was 1" shorter, it stretched immediatly to the max on the tensioner, then picked up 1 that was 1/2" shorter, it did the same thing but still had sufficient tension so i left it. Will probably try another when it goes back together.

You'd better get a EGT gauge also.

So i should get one that is 1 1/2" smaller thn right Rigger?

If your engine belt routing is the same as the 00 that should do. IIRC the belt i got from Napa was 600997. I'm thinking i need the 995 belt.

ok thanks CR iwill be doing this i hope today thanks again

You are removing the pump right? I wouldn't run more than 8 PSI or you'll be throwing codes. I have an extra WG selonoid if you'd like to try that first.

NO thats fine CR be cause Today it was makin Vacuum. Now what does that mean?
I was going to change the OPS today and was wondering do i have to remove the whole intake what a pain in the ass?

Thanks again

I think thats possible with the older models but the newer ones like ares look to be impossible without removing the intake.

so i have to remove the intake?

i think you can do it without removing the intake but you have to loosen the fuel filter canister and push it back to get some room. still going to be a ***** though.

Since the vacuum is intermittent, the problem is a sticking wastegate solenoid. Changing the OPS isn't that bad either - remove the "Turbo Power" cover, remove the 2 bolts holding the filter & connector bracket to the back of the intake, and you should then have enough room to get at it. Make sure you have the OPS socket (1 1/16" if I remember right). If you needed a vacuum pump, they're not THAT expensive - the local (to Chicago) auto parts store got me a new (NOT re-man) one for under $70.

Wow! Under $70!? Are we ever getting hosed here! We are talking $300+, but that is in Canadian Dollars too. Still a big difference though.

$ 220.00 at NAPA yesterday for the quote. $26.00 for the OPS

I hope to get this thing running great?

I'm not sure who the manufacturer was, but it physically looked identical to my old one. Since I'm always buying parts there, they didn't charge me to remove my old pulley (that *might* have added another $5). I installed my original pulley onto the new unit with a bolt, a washer, and a nut. If anyone else is in the Chicago area, they have 2 locations, and have great pricing. Parts City Auto Parts

When I saw the ebay auction last year for vacuum pumps, I knew I was getting a good deal from these guys, since I paid less than the opening bid. If they don't have something in stock, and it's not a "dealer only" item, they'll usually be able to get it in a day or two.

For the "dealer only" parts, my car club has a deal worked out with a Chevy dealer. Members of our club get parts for 10% over dealer cost. That's even cheaper than "jobber" (independant repair shops) cost (which I beleive is 20% over). The only problem about me using them all of the time, is that they are about a 40 minute drive each way for me (although I have ordered about $700 worth of items from them, and only paid about $430 with tax).

Can anyone tell me how to make the WG Controller?

PM CanadianRigger OR Quantum Mechanic Those 2 will help you

Ok i was following the Vacuum line from the Wastgate to the THING on the valve cover, unhooked it and no vacuum there some i hooked it back up and took it off the wastegate and got vacuum there.
This vacuum thing is starting to piss me off.
My boost gauge should be here on tuesday and i will be able to see what is really going on with the boost pressure.

Any Ideas would be good THANKS

How's your power? If it's good and you don't have clouds of black smoke behind you, that's a pretty good indication that your turbo and WG system is working.

The power is poor not like when i got it for the shop the first time.
No black smoke and i can hear the turbo like before so i assume no boost.

flanman, need help? Trochu is about a 2 hour drive but i'd be happy to help, i'm off until monday.

The power is poor not like when i got it for the shop the first time.
No black smoke and i can hear the turbo like before so i assume no boost.
When I put the boost gauge in I was not happy to see 5 psi with a veriable on the map that should have given me 15 psi boost. After replacing the donuts on the crossover, switching exhaust housings(thanks to gmctd) and putting exhaust manifold gaskets (A real pita to line up and hold the exhaust manifold/turbo) I found it was the vac pump its'elf.
I put a spring on the wg arm and it made 20 psi!!!

CR that is a great offer but my weekend is booked at home with the kids. ( WIFE WORKING) And next week i think we are off to lay pipe again some wheere in this province.
But if not how is next weekend sound?

Let me know
Thanks

I will probably be working then, just rained out this weekend. Very lazy today as last night was party night until 4 a.m. I'm gettin to old for that stuff. Can't seem to get it together to even work on my truck today.

OH i no the feeling of the Mighty HAngover a few times over.LOL

Where you workin at this days?
I hope i am around the city, as i have been for the last 2 months.
Thanks again

Mostly around Drumheller the last couple of months. Getting that dinasour pee out of the ground. lol