Well the weather's finally warming up here. That means it's time to fix the AC. The compressor is simply not engaging. Using a circuit tester, I found no power going to the compressor with engine running and ac switched on. Possibly the relay, but I swapped in the starter relay and still nothing.

Any ideas, guys? Would a scanner be helpful in trouble shooting the ac?:help2:

Sounds like the pressure switch on your dryer may not be working. try this: disconnect the switch and jump the pigtail with a piece of wire and turn the a/c on. ifit works, the switch is bad. i have sold auto parts for 6 years and i have sold many of those switches. If it is not that, also check you freon level and sure that it is not too low, that will also cause the compressor not to engage. if not that, my personal favorite: the control assembly in the dash, like mine will quit. but before you try any of this, disconnect your battery for at least a minute and then try it. Sounds crazy, but i have personally seen that fix an a/c problem on your body style truck. sorry it is so much info, but just trying to help if i can. Good luck!!

joispoi
Off topic but how do you like your edlebrock shocks? How do they ride?

The low pressure switch on my accumulator wasn't completing the circuit. So I checked the pressure and it was right where it was supposed to be, so I figured bad switch, replaced the switch $6 and you don't have to drain the system to change it the valve behind it should shut when you screw it off. Still no circuit, ohm'd the switch and it was closed like it was supposed to. Found terminals burnt from poor connection in the plug to that switch. The electrical system on these trucks leaves much to be desired.

thanks for the input guys. I'll take another crack at it this weekend. Luckily, it's still only in the 50's.


Chevydave- I like the edlebrock shocks. The ride is great. Of course the only thing that I had to compare them to were the old worn out factory shocks that were on the 'burb (it felt like I had no shocks on it). When the time comes, I would buy another set of edlebrock shocks for it.

My guess, you're lookin' at a low charge situation. Disclaimer: GUESS. No voltage to clutch is either LP switch is cut-out, because of low on charge, or second best is LP switch is bad. Other situations listed above are very possible too, but I'm leaning more toward the low charge one. Off-season, not cycling the compressor allows the shaft seal to not get a good splash of oil inside to keep it nice and sealed.

Know someone with a manifold set? That's the best way to tell for sure before buying any parts. If you are interested in automotive manifolds, you can build your own less expensively than what is offered in the "automotive" verision of manifold sets. Unless they've come down in price, they want too much money. (haven't checked lately either)

joispoi
Off topic but how do you like your edlebrock shocks? How do they ride?I don't like mine at all. My Suburban rides VERY harsh and VERY stiff, even when it had the original steel rims with Goodyear TD's, the aftermarket 16 aluminum rims with Michelin LTX's, the 17" hummer rims with Goodyear Wranglers, now with the 20" rims with Goodyear Eagles with a very light load rating. Before I bought my Sub. I had replaced the original shocks with Bilsteins on my 95 2500 4 x 4 Ext Cab and the difference was drastic, it rode much smoother and compliant. Compared to my Suburban with the Edlebrocks, it rode like a Cadillac. I asked and asked who liked their Edlebrocks before I bought them, but nobody replied, so taking a chance, I bought them over the Bilsteins. Will replace with Bilsteins when the time comes I think.

I've got the '96 disassembled right now with the entire a/c system removed. The factory installation included locktight on the threads and necessatated the replacemnt of the entire system. I have spent about $300 in parts so far. $90 condensor, $90 evap, $50 compressor line $25 for the liquid line, ect. I put it on a vac pump for 30 min. and It's blowing cold now.

DieselSuburbanguy, is your suburban a 1500 or 2500?

I'd guess that since DieselSuburbanGuy is running Hummer rims(8 Lug) that his Suburban is a 3/4Ton.

Mine's a 1500 with 8 lug rims.....go figure....:rolleyes:

joispoi, 1500 with 8 lugs is either a misbadge or the doors had been replaced from a wreck. I'd bet you don't have an EGR and your vin is an "F". If you ordered suspension parts at a dealer for a 1500 they wouldn't fit. If your Suburban is 4WD and diesel it has to be a 2500, all 1/2 ton diesel suburban's with the diesel are 2WD, all Tahoe/Yukon's with diesel are 4WD and 2 door.

you're right about parts not fitting. when I bought brakes, I had to specify that it's a 2500. However, the title and vin say it's a 1500 and an "F"......

Okay, back to ac. I jumped the wires at the cycling switch and the compressor kicked on. So I went to Levine's and bought a new switch for $15. Installed it. Nothing. Had a can of 134a. topped of the low pressure side. Reads charged, and the compressor now kicks on intermitantly. Sounds like it's working. However, no cold air in front or rear ac. Truck was in a front end collision before I bought it. Never had the ac working after repair. What could it be??

put gauges on it and see where the pressure's at. frontend wreck might be a crimped line or a leak.

Could be a plugged orfice tube. In order to remove heat, you have to have full charge, compressor working, flow of refrigerant, condensor must be removing heat, etc. Lots of variables with A/C, you really need a set of gauges to get accurate readings.

Makes sense with the misbadge, if GM puts 1500 badges on a vehicle associated with a particular VIN then that's what their system is going to say.

For the A/C I read that the orifice tube is in the line coming off of the condenser, so it could have been damaged in a frontal collision.