Just having some problems with my turbo on my 97 chev, 6.5 TD. Most of the time when I stomp on it, the truck doesn't spool up at all, it just smokes like a bastard, then after like 20 seconds, the turbo will spool up and it will quit smoking and actually start hauling. Now if I stomp on it and keep the throttle all the way from a start, it's fine, but it's just when i'm cruising along and stomp on it. I know it would spool right now, but the turbo on the 6.5 is small, and shouldn't take 20 seconds to spool. Could it be a vaccum problem? I'm pretty much at a loss. Been doing it for a long time now, just figured I'd see if anyone had a clue what is causing it.

any engine codes? theres a boost diagnostics link in my sig, go there and if you have any issues pm me

I wouldnt be asking them kind off questions on the open forum can get him in trouble.

hey mamze, watch it...reported

i asked him to pm because i WROTE the diagnostic, and i can go far more in detail with his specific issue through PM, because i can write a book and not lose the point on people who won't need/understand the technical jargon.

next time you have a boost issue, PM me, i'll help you too

just not sure how to take this thread. I may have misunderstood the intent here, but it could have been read either way. you could lose your pms too!

if you really want i can post the entire pm list between me and dusty...it's alot of reading

its fine blue i don't think you will get into any trouble i didn't see where you tried to sell anything.

Re: Turbo Problems

without knowing what codes you have, if any, i can't really guide you through it....do you have a check engine light on? if you do, take it to a local speed shop and get the codes read, you can also buy a reader for around $100...handy diagnostics tool

but for starters, on that page it runs through a list of parts to be checked, just take your time, and check them, and the problem will usually prove to be a simple fix(IF thats what the issue is...there could be something else wrong, this list will either show the problem or eliminate the turbo system as an issue)

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustydusty1717
How would I find out if it's throwing any codes? Take it to my local speed shop or to a GM dealership?

Also, I'm on that diagnostic page, but what should I be looking for exactly?

Re: Turbo Problems

yep they go bad, mine did. also be prepared to repair vacuum lines, washer fluid hose works well

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustydusty1717
I will take it to my speed shop tommorow and see what it comes up with. I'm hoping it's just a WG solenoid. Ever heard of this happening before? 1/10 times I punch it when i'm just cruising, it spools right now, and just fly's, but other 9 times, it just smokes bad for a while, then finally spools and goes.

Re: Turbo Problems

the codes are going to just say theres a boost issue, you still need to find it yourself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustydusty1717
If it is a wrecked vaccum hose, or WG solenoid, would it throw codes? I just wanna know if I should go spend a couple hours searching for the problem, or just wait till tommorow for them to check for codes.

Re: Turbo Problems

what RPM and Speed does it usually happen at? because the torque converter clutch or maybe the shift solenoids are reacting to another sensor? that seems odd to me, see if you can find anything wrong with the boost sytem, get the codes, and post up this tranny issue in your original thread

for my sake, maybe tell them we are only discussing boost related issues, not the sale of a turbo

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustydusty1717
Well atleast it will narrow it down a little better. I was just gonna go check vac lines and just see if I could find any wire of line that is cracked, but I think I'm just gonna wait. Just another quick question if you don't mind. My tranny seems to slip into gears sometimes. It's usually only when I'm having the turbo issue also. Could they be related, or would that be a totally seperate issue itself? I was told the torque converter, but they both seem to happen together.

Excuse me ladies, but he is not trying to sell me ANYTHING, he is simply trying to help me with my BOOST ISSUES, which clearly, none of you are. Back on topic please, thanks.

Did a scan on the truck today, it threw a boost related code and also an injection pump code. Could both of these be causing my turbo problems, or just the boost one? Also, the mechanic took it for a drive and he thinks it's the actual wastegate itself. He suggested just wiring it open, would that work?

just make or buy a turbomaster.

Did a scan on the truck today, it threw a boost related code and also an injection pump code. Could both of these be causing my turbo problems, or just the boost one? Also, the mechanic took it for a drive and he thinks it's the actual wastegate itself. He suggested just wiring it open, would that work?

wiring it open would give you no boost at all, bad idea.

hey guys im new here and saw a thread on turbo trouble and was curious if you guys could tell me if youre turbos, with everything stock, make any noise. my turbo makes zero noise, no spooling, whistle, nothing, even when it it towing a 6000 pound trailer up a mountain, or when i step on the pedal, just silent

answered in your thread.
hey guys im new here and saw a thread on turbo trouble and was curious if you guys could tell me if youre turbos, with everything stock, make any noise. my turbo makes zero noise, no spooling, whistle, nothing, even when it it towing a 6000 pound trailer up a mountain, or when i step on the pedal, just silent

Excuse me ladies, but he is not trying to sell me ANYTHING, he is simply trying to help me with my BOOST ISSUES, which clearly, none of you are. Back on topic please, thanks.

I really don't care who is PM'ing whom and If anybody is trying to sell something or not!:) But I think if a question is asked on the forum it will help the OP and people who maybe lurking if it is answered on the forum.
This also leaves checks and balances making sure the right info is given and whether or not it fixed the problem.

Gary

gary, i directed him to a diagnostic list which is stickied on the site, click the link in my signature for the checklist, i ask people to pm for clarification on that checklist, because i often go into a depth that is beyond what most people would be able to understand, also i eventually posted the entire pm conversation into the thread here. i understand what your getting at, but i also find it's hard to solve boost issues correctly on this site, because everyone screams turbo master, when the problem could be simply a vacuum line.

IMHO turbo master is good if the vehicle is not going to be stock, has gauges, and the vehicle may or may not be worth repairing a vacuum pump. personally i will be keeping my vacuum system as long as possible.

personally i will be keeping my vacuum system as long as possible.


Or design a system that dumps the wastegate based on boost pressure(pressure instead of vacuum). You may be able to work that in with the factory system to give the PCM control over the boost, but still eliminate that troublesome vac pump. Just thinking outloud here. :p:

dave *slap* shush.... ;)

dave *slap* shush.... ;)

No. :p: ):h

Or design a system that dumps the wastegate based on boost pressure(pressure instead of vacuum). You may be able to work that in with the factory system to give the PCM control over the boost, but still eliminate that troublesome vac pump. Just thinking outloud here. :p:
which is the idea of a turbomaster.boost pressure builds to a preset pressure, which forces the wastegate open. the most basic operational design I have seen in a WASTEGATED turbo. Gets rid of a bunch of failure prone crap, like the vac pump, line etc.

Keep It Simple Stoopid sounds good to me.

By the way my EGTs dropped considerably after addition of T/M.

Or design a system that dumps the wastegate based on boost pressure(pressure instead of vacuum). You may be able to work that in with the factory system to give the PCM control over the boost, but still eliminate that troublesome vac pump. Just thinking outloud here. :p:
OR design a NON-WASTEGATED turbo. that also would eliminate the vac system.

anyone hear of one of these?:rolleyes:

OR design a NON-WASTEGATED turbo. that also would eliminate the vac system.

anyone hear of one of these?:rolleyes:


Better be watching that kind of talking our your PM's will be taken away.:eek::D

Well I still haven't figured it out. I tried pulling my 24' flat deck trailer and it seemed to run perfect, so I'm at a loss. Ever since I pulled the trailer, the turbo seems to be running perfect. With this turbomaster, does the vaccum pump get taken out completely?

yep it does, really should get a boost gauge when installing one though

Search under home made turbo master, you can make one for dirt. If youve got some mechanical skills. If i could weld i would have made one myself....

which is the idea of a turbomaster.boost pressure builds to a preset pressure, which forces the wastegate open. the most basic operational design I have seen in a WASTEGATED turbo. Gets rid of a bunch of failure prone crap, like the vac pump, line etc.

Keep It Simple Stoopid sounds good to me.

By the way my EGTs dropped considerably after addition of T/M.

Close. The Turbomaster only refrences drive pressure. Once drive pressure gets to a set point, it will force the WG open against the spring. I think Dave was talking about a boost refrenced actuator. A boost refrenced one would hold the WG shut, then have a boost line from the actuator to the intake. Once boost pressure came up, the boost would open the wastegate.

yep it does, really should get a boost gauge when installing one though
I would suggest gauges to anyone. More info is better. Trans temps and EGTs can get fairly high when truck is really working, even at stock.
Knowledge is power!:)

But power isn't knowledge.

How much is a new vaccum pump then? What's the price of the turbomaster and also a boost gauge? Just comparing costs. I don't need anymore performance out of the truck, I just want everything running properly. But if it's cheaper to go the turbomaster way, I'll do that instead.

T/M is 110$ and a trisco boost gauge was 25$. Or scroll back to post 25.Not sure about the price of a pump, but I bet a quick search would yield an answer to that as well.

Close. The Turbomaster only refrences drive pressure. Once drive pressure gets to a set point, it will force the WG open against the spring. I think Dave was talking about a boost refrenced actuator. A boost refrenced one would hold the WG shut, then have a boost line from the actuator to the intake. Once boost pressure came up, the boost would open the wastegate.


Bingo RC. That's exactly what i was talking about. I"m sure it could be one. This gives the best of both worlds really. No more failure prone vac pump, and the PCM still controls the boost. I"m sure it could be wired in.

A friend of mine had the wrong solenoid installed on his truck for the wastegate setup, so when the PCM called for boost, the vac was dumped to the air, and when the computer called to dump boost, vac was applied and the wastegate was closed. The solenoid had a gray dot on it IIRC. Based on this accident, it got me thinking that something with boost could be done. Have the computer route the boost pressure to the wastegate when the boost got too high, thus opening the WG. Know what i mean?

T/M is 110$ and a trisco boost gauge was 25$. Or scroll back to post 25.Not sure about the price of a pump, but I bet a quick search would yield an answer to that as well.

My new vac pump was ~$140 IIRC. I've still got it, its just collecting dust in the garage now, along with the factory wastegate actuator.

The only thing is that you must re-use the pulley from your old vac pump. Just get a puller that pushes on the center of the vac pump shaft. Don't get one that pulls the pulley off from the edges as you can bend it, which would cause thrown belts, etc etc.

Bingo RC. That's exactly what i was talking about. I"m sure it could be one. This gives the best of both worlds really. No more failure prone vac pump, and the PCM still controls the boost. I"m sure it could be wired in.

A friend of mine had the wrong solenoid installed on his truck for the wastegate setup, so when the PCM called for boost, the vac was dumped to the air, and when the computer called to dump boost, vac was applied and the wastegate was closed. The solenoid had a gray dot on it IIRC. Based on this accident, it got me thinking that something with boost could be done. Have the computer route the boost pressure to the wastegate when the boost got too high, thus opening the WG. Know what i mean?

I've actually thought of a boost-actuated, ECM controlled boost system before that would act exactly as you describe, replacing vacuume with pressure. I did, however, decide not to pursue it at this time, or any time in the near future.

I could be mistaken, but I seem to think that I have a 3406E cat engine that has a w/g turbo. I think there was a small pressure line from the compressor to a canister hooked to the W/G. At a preset point, boost pressure over =came the spring? in the canister, opening the W/G.(like RC said I think) Not ECM controlled tho. I will look, and take a pic.

I could be mistaken, but I seem to think that I have a 3406E cat engine that has a w/g turbo. I think there was a small pressure line from the compressor to a canister hooked to the W/G. At a preset point, boost pressure over =came the spring? in the canister, opening the W/G.(like RC said I think) Not ECM controlled tho. I will look, and take a pic.

That is boost refrenced. The turbomaster uses only turbine drive pressure.

How hard is it to install the turbo master? I suppost it's a pain the the rear to take the vac pump off after also, right?

How hard is it to install the turbo master? I suppost it's a pain the the rear to take the vac pump off after also, right?
T/M took 20 min to install. Take out the airbox as per the instructions,and you have lots of room. My vacuum pump is spinning so it is still in the truck,till I get time to take it out. I don't think it should be too hard.

My vac system was fully functional, but I have a Heath tune, that recommends a T/M. My install was moreso an upgrade. It works better with lower EGTs and steady,higher boost, in conjunction with the chip.

I was just browsing over this thread so if I missed it feel free to give me a slap. But has it actually been established if the vac pump has failed? Also he has not taken any vac readings or tested the actuator? What about the codes?

Judging by what he has said I think he may have an intermittant WG solenoid problem. Its probably on its way out.

yeah 6.5TD *slap* lol, we've been through it, IIRC the actuator it self was damaged rusty? too lazy to go back through it all right now :p:

I'll go snap a picture for everyone. As far the vac pump goes, I'm sure it's working fine, cause I took the vac line off the WG and it had seemed to have good suction on my thumb. Please don't judge on how dirty the engine bay is. I know it's dirty, but some day i'll get in there with some brake cleaner and some engine degreaser. :)

Here's two pictures. Now on the second one, what is that thing that has the blue sticker on it and the line runs from the intake on the turbo to the top of the motor? There's oil all over the top of that and it just looks useless to me. What has everyone done to fix that damn thing from leaking oil all over the place? What is it for also.


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s70/rustydusty1717/DSC03107.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s70/rustydusty1717/DSC03106.jpg

Here's two pictures. Now on the second one, what is that thing that has the blue sticker on it and the line runs from the intake on the turbo to the top of the motor? There's oil all over the top of that and it just looks useless to me. What has everyone done to fix that damn thing from leaking oil all over the place? What is it for also.


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s70/rustydusty1717/DSC03107.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s70/rustydusty1717/DSC03106.jpg



The 2nd photo is the CDR valve. Just replace it and keep it hooked up to the intake. The CDR valve hooked up in its stock location prevents oil leaks as the crankcase is put under a vacuum.

Also two things.

- You need an air filter(filter monitor is tripped)
- Leave the CDR in its stock location. Its an emissions device, and venting it to air will also cause seals to weep oil as the crankcase is no longer under a vacuum.

So get a new CDR? The filter I have sitting in the backseat of the truck, just gotta pop it in. :P

So get a new CDR? The filter I have sitting in the backseat of the truck, just gotta pop it in. :P

Yes go grab a new CDR. They are good for ~30K miles each. You can get them from places like Napa, Advance Auto, Auto zone, etc. Some places call it a PCV instead of a CDR, I know the local Napa did.

What's the price on them? Or atleast a rough estimate.

Got a few things to do to get the truck back up and running perfectly. Crossover piece, Downpipe (maybe, but no 100% sure yet), rear axle seal, PCV valve, front brakes, wheel alignment and maybe a chip also. I would like to spend under $1000.00 for all this, but whatever it costs to get it done, i'll pay. Need to get this truck running good again. Dad had the truck before me, and let's just say he didn't keep up with the maintainence.

You can clean out the CDR if it isn't damaged. I heard of others having success with doing this to save money. I personally would rather just replace it. I've seen them priced anywhere from about $45 to over $100 depending on the vendor.

The thing must be worn right out, cause there's oil ALL over the top of the motor and it is definently coming from that PCV. I'm just gonna replace it and be done with it. Then try and get some of that damn oil off the motor. Spend a day with some brake cleaner and engine degreaser and see what i can come up with.

<$50 if i remeber correectly for the CDR(Crankcase Depression Regulator)(the diesel version of Positive CrankCase Ventilation)
they stick and what not, they are to be tested at ~30K intervals...honestly for the cost and ease to change, i'd rather change them and not have it leaking oil everywhere in a failure...than testing them(also apparently easy)

Exactly my point. If everyone wouldn't mind helping me figure out prices on some stuff, that would be great. If you know the price of an item, just post it, thanks.

Crossover, with new flanges at bolts - $200.00
PCV - $50.00
Front brake pads & wheel alignment - ?
Rear axle seal - ?

Just incase the rotors are shot, how much are new rotors for the front?

hehe....these are bearing rotor hub assemblies...they aren't cheap, see if they can be turned...IIRC 150 or more EACH...i may be wrong...pads are about 80-100-130 depending on grade. wheel alignments are usually about 1 hour-1.5 hours labor. so whatever labor in your local alignment shop is.
the biggest issue is why do you need an alignment...tie rods ball joints center links? those can get pricey, idler arms as well

rear axle seal, on the axle tube or the differential unit? seals themselves are usually between 5-30 depending on seal...and do you have a FF axle? because if you do the axle tubes, don't have seals, they just RTV up

the brakes squeal, but only once i've been driving around for a while. I need a wheel alignment because the steerwheel sits way to the left when i'm doing down the road straight and when I brake it pulls to the left and the steering wheel pulses. We've had the brakes checked and I'm sure the wheel alignment is just so bad it's affecting the braking. I'm not sure about the ball joints, but I'm sure those are shot. The truck itself has 400,000 km on it and I don't remember my dad ever doing the ball joints on it.

Rear axel seal on the differential. I'm getting tired of getting under the truck every 2-3 months and putting more oil in it. But if it's a bitch to do and it can get expensive, I'll just keep filling it up.

vaccum pump is around 350 to 450 depends on where you get it from and if you get any disconts or not

vaccum pump is around 350 to 450 depends on where you get it from and if you get any disconts or not


Whoa Whoa. Where in the world are you getting your vac pumps from? i got mine for ~$140. Please tell me you didn't pay anywhere near that for a vac pump.

140 for a vac pump? Well mine is working fine, as far as I know. I mean i pulled the vac line off the WG and it had suction, so I'm guessing it's fine, but for 140 bucks, i'd rather get the turbomaster and just get rid of the damn vac pump altogether.

Crossover pipe is cheap at napa, I paid $45CAD for mine. Just make sure you can pass a golf ball through it before you install, some of that type had restrictions inside. The 2.25" mandrel bent crossover doesn't give any significant performance gains.

I have a 2.25 stainless non mandrel, single wall....personally...after blowing up a stocker, i won't go back....

the differential seal, you may have to remove the yoke from the pinion, i'll check a repair procedure later today on that. as for the brakes and alignment, steering wheel pulsation when braking is usually a warped rotor or drum, the squealing could be a cracked pad, and the alignment likely means something else needs replacing.

Wheel alignment- cost me $90 CAN at GM, but it could cost more, depending on what they have to adjust/replace.

yep 1 hour labor :p:

I could see the alignment getting pricey. The truck is probabally gonna need new ball joints and just to get it aligned is gonna be a pain in the butt. Hasn't been done in probabally 150,000 km's.

What I got today was a PVC valve, K&N filter, and a cross piece. Hopefully have everything on and installed before the weekend.

CDR valve, cross over pipe and air filter all done. The sound is totally different with my new crossover. Can hear the turbo very well, even inside the truck and it sounds a lot better outside. I'll be popping the front tires off tommorow to check the brakes. Anyone have any pointers? As far as the rear end leaks, it's gonna be a pain the butt and looks like I'm gonna have to replace all the seals and re-do the rear brakes as well. :(