Hey guys, I need more light when I'm backing up.
The stock bulbs just don't throw out enough light
(IMHO). I've noticed that several of you list
100w backup lights. Were do you get them and
do they melt the housings (like I've heard
can happen in the fog light application).

I'll try the higher wattage bulbs if they
don't melt anything, but it that don't cut it,
I guess I'll have to mount some lights on my receiver
hitch.....

Thanks for any insight,

T.

TTT I'm interested too

I have 50w backup lights. Picked them up at Pep Boys. They're OK. Better than stock but not a whole lot.

I'm thinking of these. Here is the link.


http://www.whitenight.com/whitenight/index.htm

Voodoo, that looks like not a bad product. It even doesn't look bad on the truck. Any idea what they cost?

Looks to be about $100

Voodoo, that looks like not a bad product. It even doesn't look bad on the truck. Any idea what they cost?


Max Power,


Not sure on the price, I had seen them a few months back on another forum and thought they were cool so I kept the link. When my truck gets in I may order a kit. The only thing I wasn't to sure about is, the housing looks like It's plastic.

I called and ordered a set today. I will let you all know how they work out.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Voodoo, that looks like not a bad product. It even doesn't look bad on the truck. Any idea what they cost?


Max Power,


Not sure on the price, I had seen them a few months back on another forum and thought they were cool so I kept the link. When my truck gets in I may order a kit. The only thing I wasn't to sure about is, the housing looks like It's plastic.

And not only that, but if you have the OEM factory
tow package, you have to relocate the trailer wiring plug to the side of this unit. I need to hear some opinioins
on this kit, I'm not "sold" yet.

just my opinion,

T.

Just don't install ones that draw more amps than the stockers.....


You can melt the stock wiring harness.

Hired Gun - did you get these suckers installed yet?


I'm itchin' to do something, and saw a nice looking kit from Cabelas for $29 CLICK (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/horizontal-item.jhtml?id=0004104520842a&navAction=push&navCou nt=2&indexId=cat20133&podId=0004104&catalogCode=ID &parentId=cat20133&parentType=index&rid=&_DARGS=%2 Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fcatalog%2Fitem-link.jhtml.1_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21412&hasJS=true) These are the same brightness/bulb configuration as the White Night, but mount with 3M tape... makes for an easy install, but they may not "hang on" forever.


Not to highjack this thread... but while we are on the subject, is the 12V+ in the 7WAY trailer harness suitable for this type of load (2 55Watt bulbs)? How about supplying power to a 12 Volt outlet in the bed (for plug in coolers and other 12V stuff)?

I'm itchin' to do something, and saw a nice looking kit from Cabelas for $29 CLICK (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/horizontal-item.jhtml?id=0004104520842a&navAction=push&navCount=2&indexId=cat20133&podId=0004104&catalogCode=ID&parentId=cat20133&parentType=index&rid=&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fcatalog%2Fitem-link.jhtml.1_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21412&hasJS=true) These are the same brightness/bulb configuration as the White Night, but mount with 3M tape... makes for an easy install, but they may not "hang on" forever.


Not to highjack this thread... but while we are on the subject, is the 12V+ in the 7WAY trailer harness suitable for this type of load (2 55Watt bulbs)? How about supplying power to a 12 Volt outlet in the bed (for plug in coolers and other 12V stuff)?

The trailer plug wireing is exactly what I used for my
add-on reverse lights. The red/black wires are probably
a 10 guage - plenty big IMHO. Here's how mine turned
out =>Backup Lights (http://207.53.239.181/~terry/truck/Backup-lights/)

I'll be replacing these cheap "prototypes" with
some KC HiLites (#517) when they arrive....
http://www.kchilites.com/matrix_26_series.html
I ordered just the lights from SummitRacing.

hth,

T.

Terry,


Help me understand your wiring scheme... I thought the Cargo Lamp switch was a (-) switch. I can only see how it could be wired in with the aux lights and reverse circuit by using 2 relays, is that how you did it?


When I do mine, I am going to use the reverse circuit and Cargo Lamp Switch just like your install, I am also considering an additional 3 way switch at the rear of the truck. The goal of doing this would be:


1. A cutoff which would allow use of the Cargo Light Without aux lights coming on (sometimes I carry loads in the dark and its nice to be able to watch them, but the additional aux lights would be blinding for other traffic)


2. Normal mode, aux lights would come on with Cargo Light


3. Manual mode, be able to turn aux lights on from the rear of the truck.


I will check out those #517's, thanks for the info, and nice informative site you got there...

Terry,
Help me understand your wiring scheme... I thought the Cargo Lamp switch was a (-) switch. I can only see how it could be wired in with the aux lights and reverse circuit by using 2 relays, is that how you did it?
When I do mine, I am going to use the reverse circuit and Cargo Lamp Switch just like your install, I am also considering an additional 3 way switch at the rear of the truck. The goal of doing this would be:
1. A cutoff which would allow use of the Cargo Light Without aux lights coming on (sometimes I carry loads in the dark and its nice to be able to watch them, but the additional aux lights would be blinding for other traffic)
2. Normal mode, aux lights would come on with Cargo Light
3. Manual mode, be able to turn aux lights on from the rear of the truck.
I will check out those #517's, thanks for the info, and nice informative site you got there...

Heh - where were you when I asked which wires control the Cargo lights? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif I haven't actually installed the second relay yet in the hopes that someone would tell me about a better method. Short of that - yes, I'll be using a second relay to control the reverse lights and cargo lights with the Cargo light switch.....

thanks!

T.

I actually just learned of the wires that control the cargo light on a recent thread here (I like this placehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif)... I have yet to go digging and see if this matches up to my '02 also. Maybe I will get a quick drawing together of how I plan to wire and we can compare to see if one way is better than the other or we come up with the same idea.


I'd also like a brief review of those 517's once you get them installed as they may be exactly what I'm looking for. Project is on hold for a while anyway... tomorrow's forecast: Sunny and 15.

I have 50w backup lights. Picked them up at Pep Boys. They're OK. Better than stock but not a whole lot.


I tried some $15 Pep Boys lights too. I came to the same conclusion; they were not bright enough. They looked similar to the ones the Chevy dealer put on trucks. I figured that was what the job called for. Mistake #1


I mounted these lights to a hardened steel bumper bracket. It was very hard steel and broke the screws that came with the lights. I had to redrill several of the holes. I wish I tapped the holes and used machine screws. Mistake #2


Finally, I mounted the aux backup lights fairly close to the hitch receiver as the dealer's typically install them. Wrong. Mistake #3. Place them closer to the sides of the truck, so light goes where you can see it. Close to the hitch is bad and a good way to trash them as you back up to your tag trailer--this happened to me a few weeks later. Putting them farther apart avoids damage, and puts the light where you need.


The extra backup lights should be able to illuminate things up off the ground. Putting them up high makes sense if you want to light up everything behind you. But there is no place up high unless you have a permanent cap or a Suburban. The next best thing is a bright wide beam. Make sure it not obscured by the bumper so you can see everything--not just things close to the ground.


The wiring was easier than I thought. I pulled power from the center conductor of the 7 prong trailer jack. Center conductors on a trailer connector are the heaviest gauge. As I recall the gauge on the wire was fairly beefy, I'd guess about 10 gauge. 100 watt lights pulls about 8 amps. 10 gauge would be maxed out at 50 amps--about what the existing backup lights plus 500 watts of auxilary lights would draw--which is way more than needed..


Use solder and tape if you want to pull big power off this spot and always fuse every place you split off wire. The fuse should less than or equaly to the gauge of the wire.

I'm in the process of installing additional back up lights (2-55w, under the bumper), and I powered the relay using the light green back up lamp wire. I have checked the red wire in the harness that is supposed to be battery, and got no voltage reading at all.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif Do I have the correct wire, or am I missing something? I am going to check further tomorrow, as I ran out of daylight today.


Question #2: I want to install a switch in the overhead console to activate the lights without having the truck in reverse. Do I need a second relay to do this, or can I simply power a switch and splice into the same relay that the new lights are using? My thinking is that if I splice a switch into the relay, it will also turn on the factory back up lamps as well as the new 55 watters. It would be fine if all 4 lights came on by doing it this way, but I don't want to screw something up if there is that possibility.


I guess, basically what I'm asking is; can a relay be powered by two seperate power sources?





Thanks for any guidance you can give me.








Kevin


Edited by: Fireman

For power on the red wire there is a fuse you have to put in the fuse panel under the hood- top left hand corner as viewed from the side by standing beside the front fender. Yes you should be able to power the relay from a switch as well, and that would turn your backup lights on unless you put a diode inline from the light green backup wire to the relay.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

Thanks army,


I'll give it a look this afternoon. I appreciate the help!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif








Kevin

Well, I added a fuse and everything works great! Thanks army!


Man, the extra light is sure nice! It makes a huge difference in visibility. All in all, not bad for a $30 investment.





Kevin

Yup as many have said don't expect much from replacement bulbs. In my case the truck is lifted too high for the factory reverse lights help. I just bought a set of 20 fog lights from auto-zone and wired them up to a switch on my dash. That way they only come on when u need them too and they are great for showing tailgaters at night whats up.

The lights from Cabelas are no better than the cheapies you can get at someplace like Walmart or K-Mart. No quality at all. You are better off paying for a name brand set.


Along the same lines, is it possible to upgrade the bulbs in the cargo lights? I like the high position, just wish they were brighter.

I have a set of PIAA fog lights that I will be placing on my back bumper, hopefully soon, (soon as it warms up http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif).

I will hook them into my backup lights (electrically) via a relay for a few good reasons.

1) If I hooked them to my cargo light, I just know that I will leave in on by accident and blind people behind me going down the road. Of course it will be a LEO who will remind me of them http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif
2) They will give extra light to the “Approach” lights when I hit the key fob.
3) Normally I will have a helper when backing to a trailer so the lights will be on for them when backing.
4) The license plate lights really are fairly bright and useful when plugging things in on the trailer. Edited by: HD-Nate

Just don't install ones that draw more amps than the stockers.....


You can melt the stock wiring harness. No, your wiring harness is protected by the factory fuses.

to highjack this thread... but while we are on the subject, is the 12V+ in the 7WAY trailer harness suitable for this type of load (2 55Watt bulbs)? How about supplying power to a 12 Volt outlet in the bed (for plug in coolers and other 12V stuff)? In the new Chevy's that have the factory tow kit with factory receiver hitch and 7-pin trailer receptical, there is a back-up light wire already run to the receptical. You can just grab that and the ground. Your owner's manual lists the trailer wiring colors.

I'm in the process of installing additional back up lights (2-55w, under the bumper), and I powered the relay using the light green back up lamp wire. I have checked the red wire in the harness that is supposed to be battery, and got no voltage reading at all.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif Do I have the correct wire, or am I missing something? I am going to check further tomorrow, as I ran out of daylight today.





Hi, sounds like you already got a fuse.


I wanted to mention that if you got a "trailer brake wiring harness" with you Chevy or GMC rig (probably in your glove box), there should be a 40 amp fuse taped to it that is meant for activating the red wire, which is called the "trailer battery charge wire". As you already found out, the fuse goes in the location called "Stud #1" in your underhood fuse box. With different factory configurations, apparently that location is used for various things -- that is why they didn't just label it "Trailer Batt Charge".


Figuring this out took me almost a day. I spend hours trying to trace the circuit, and checked all the fuses in all three panels. I finally reread the owners manual cover to cover, and found a small reference to the fuse being included with the wiring harness for the trailer brake controller. I found it totally covered with black electrical tape, so you would not know it was even there.


I have no clue why Chevy did not just factory install that fuse -- I'll bet MANY owners wasted a lot of time trying to figure out why that red wire was not hot.

to highjack this thread... but while we are on the subject, is the 12V+ in the 7WAY trailer harness suitable for this type of load (2 55Watt bulbs)? How about supplying power to a 12 Volt outlet in the bed (for plug in coolers and other 12V stuff)?


In the new Chevy's that have the factory tow kit with factory receiver hitch and 7-pin trailer receptical, there is a back-up light wire already run to the receptical. You can just grab that and the ground. Your owner's manual lists the trailer wiring colors.


The fuse will protect the harness all right, but if the sockets are of the same quality of the DRL's, I wouldn't leave them on very long with higher than stock wattage lamps.

The white knights work as advertised. The only issue is
relocating the stock trailer plug on the hitch. Not hard but...

I had them on my '01 for 2 years. Lots of light and no problems with anything. Haven't oredered a set for my '04 yet but I plan to.

Bob

I have used OEM socket compatible halogens for a number of years with no problems. They provide lots of light and make the stock lights look like a candle in comparison. These guys use lots of juice and give off lots of heat so 1) you need to use a relay arrangement as described in the previous posts and 2) you cannot leave them on for long or they will melt your lens. JC Whitney sells them and I have also seen them at a NAPA outlet.

Hey guys, I need more light when I'm backing up.
I recently added supplemental backup lights to my 2500HD. I bought 2 rectangular "tractor utility lights", which use a 55W bulb and project a "flood" pattern. They have plastic cases, are about 2.5" x 5", and decent mounting hardware. I got them at an auto parts store for about $15 each.


I drilled a hole up into the bottom of the rear bumper at each side adjacent to the bolt attaching the bumper to the frame-mounted bumper brackets. My truck has the heavy duty towing package, which includes a backup light wire (light green in color) in the wiring to the 7-pin trailer connector. I spliced into the light green wire and the white ground wire a few inches from the trailer connector, and wired up the lights.


Since Chevy had apparently sized the backup light wiring and fuse to support the factory backup lights PLUS additional backup lights on a trailer, I figured the circuit could handle my add-on lights. That turned out to be the case -- no problems at all. This project only took about an hour, and now I have serious backup lighting. Very helpful when I have my camper on the truck.

Hey Hoot,


Are those external add-on lights or just brighter back-up bulbs?


JP

I ordered a pair of 55W driving lights ($28.00) from Doug at www.ledtrailerlights.com (http://www.ledtrailerlights.com) The site has picts of an "03 setup. I'm using a 40Amp relay with fused power connected to the right side battery terminal. Switch power is provided by OEM backup light. Cheers!

Thanks LaBeym! I ordered and got them quickly.

I would like to link off the red 7 pin hitch wire, and as described above, it is not hot. My fuse box has a "TRL B/U" and a 10 amp fuse already in the underhood fuse box, but I get no reading on the volt meter. I would rather tap off of it instead of having to run one wire all the way up to the battery. Any help is appreciated.

Also, would appreciate any suggestions on how, if possible, to be able to also utilize the dash mounted OEM cargo lamp switch. Could it be so simple as to tap the hot to it for the relay's switch soruce, and off of the relay's other connections to the lights? I considered adding a diode, but cannot locate an inline verison like you see in the Kennedy four headlamp wiring harness. The only ones I can find are intended for soldering into a circuit board type use.

Good pictures and descriptions of several backup lights.


http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/mods/electric/backup_wire.htm


How to wire:


http://catalog.com/susq/other/auxlamps.htm


http://www.geocities.com/cummins_man/Reverse.jpgEdited by: JohnnyO

Edited by: JohnnyO

I am using lites from www.AWDirect.com (http://www.AWDirect.com) more likly the same on the company tow truck doulble beam 55 watt work lite HL-903 for $54.99 each they are made by Hella of Germany and hook them up to the trailer back-up .Nice to have a C4500 thats got the extras.

I agree, I was shocked the first time I backup in the dark. I got out and had my wife back up to make sure I didn’t have a burned out bulb. I’ll be following this thread closely and doing some investigation on my own. If I come up with something I’ll let everyone know.

I just bought the KC HiLites 517 Backup Flood Kit. These lights seem to be of very high quality. The lenses are a thick glass, the brackets are heavy metal, and the housings looks very durable. The wiring supplied with the kit also seems to be of high quality, with everything one needs to wire these up for automatic operation. I plan to be able to install them this evening with little effort. So far, I'm very happy with my purchase.

Terry,
Help me understand your wiring scheme... I thought the Cargo Lamp switch was a (-) switch. I can only see how it could be wired in with the aux lights and reverse circuit by using 2 relays, is that how you did it? When I do mine, I am going to use the reverse circuit and Cargo Lamp Switch just like your install, I am also considering an additional 3 way switch at the rear of the truck. The goal of doing this would be:
1. A cutoff which would allow use of the Cargo Light Without aux lights coming on (sometimes I carry loads in the dark and its nice to be able to watch them, but the additional aux lights would be blinding for other traffic)
2. Normal mode, aux lights would come on with Cargo Light


3. Manual mode, be able to turn aux lights on from the rear of the truck.


I will check out those #517's, thanks for the info, and nice informative site you got there...

Ok, sorry it took me so long to get back onto this...
I've got the HiLites working with the Cargo Lamp Switch.
I did use a 2nd relay wired into the C3 connector on IP Relay Block. Here are some Pictures (http://207.53.239.181/~terry/truck/Backup-lights/)
of the KC HiLites and wiring schematic.

hth,

T.

...Pictures[/URL]
of the KC HiLites and wiring schematic.

hth,

T.

Terry: Cool! I just installed mine the other evening and was thinking about adding a switch. I think I like your approach better. Do the back-up lights in the brake-pod come on as well? I want to make sure there is no potential to fry any other electronics. Thanks for the info.

Terry: Cool! I just installed mine the other evening and was thinking about adding a switch. I think I like your approach better. Do the back-up lights in the brake-pod come on as well? I want to make sure there is no potential to fry any other electronics. Thanks for the info.

Did you check the pictures referenced above? ;)
Maybe it's too hard to see, here's the
specific <a href="http://207.53.239.181/~terry/truck/Backup-lights/IMG_0006.JPG" target="_blank" border="0">
picture</a> I'm referring to.

I'm not sure what you mean by "backup lights in the brake pod".
The OEM backup lights do not come on unless you
have selected reverse. When in Reverse, the OEM cargo
lights do not come on either (unless you push the switch).

hth,

T.