Hey,

I just bought a new 2005, 2500HD Duramax.
What is the thought on oil change frequency for the break in period;

1. The engine, every 1000 miles until 5000. Then put in synthetic?
2. The Allison transmission? For the tranny is there any after market filter available better than the standard GM?
3. The rear end?
4. Fuel/water filter?

Thanks for any input:ro)

Hi---In the motor--you could change to synthetic at 1000 miles--no need to wait--amsoil hdd 5-30 or amsoil 15-40 diesel snd marine--also use the amsoil sdf52 oil filter--the best on market!! Use amsoil severe service 75/90 in both front and rear gear. You can get your filters fuel and trans from Greg.

Greg Carter

I think most recommend staying with a dino oil until a substantial amount of break in time has occured.

Greg Carter, are you selling something? I think that is a no-no without supporting vendor status.

For your information, I'm giving out information--I'm not selling anything--I'm simply giving my advice, based on experience--I've used these products for years--I know what works--so I'm simply telling people who ask!! The big thing on this board is getting correct information!!!!!!!

Greg Carter Vermont

harrington,

First, welcome to the Diesel Place!

The Allison spin-on filter is an Allison OEM part that can be purchased at any Allison service center for about $9.00 each.

The trans rebuilders here on the board recommend the Allsion spin-on filter be changed every 5000 miles for optium transmission life. Some, such as myself, have had the transmission flushed and changed to Allison Transynd fluid for towing and servere service applications. GM recommends Dex III, but most of us have shifted to synth either Mobil 1 ATF, Transynd, or Amsoil equil.

The rear diff., as well as the front if you have 4WD should be changed withing the first 1000 miles. You can use the GM Grape Juice or use any GL5 rated differental fluid. Most here use either Grape Juice or Mobil 1. Again your choice.

The Fuel filter should be changed every 10-15k miles for best performance. All of the fuel filters for OEM use are made by Racor and are rebadge as necessary by the other distributers. Your truck came with what is called the dual pleat design filter and can be distinguished by the black stripe on the outside of the filter.

Your choice of oil is up to you as results with people running various types of oil have not proved a benefit, one way or the other. I suggest reading posts on oil or doing a search on oil and be prepared to sit and read for a while.
My personal oil routine was to change at 1000, 2000, 4000, and 6000. Then I will change to synth at 10,000 miles and will change the oil every 10,000 miles or once a year. My choice is Mobil 1, but others have run just about every synth oil out there.

I hope that answers your questions.


Greg Carter,

If you were referring to Greg Lundyt's Lubespecialist web site, http://www.lubespecialist.com/
that's great! He is one of our supporting vendors and I recommend all of our member supporting our own.

However, your name is also Greg and your post came off as a little one sided in the Amsoil flavor. It is a decent oil, but there are others you know. We don't want to pound new members with sales pitches as that puts people off.

And please, if your are an Amsoil distributer, registor with the forum administrators. Sideways sales will not be tolorated.

If your not and just passionate about Amsoil, then I hope you have thick skin and Welcome to the board!

Mods,

Please move this thread to the 2500/3500 truck category or the LLY category where it is more appropriate.

Greg, I'm sorry if I misunderstood your original post. I was unaware that the Lube Specialist vendors name was Greg, if that was who you were referring to.

Hello;

Thank you for all the info.


H

Can the filter be changed without losing any oil? I thought I heard that it could.

engine oil or tranny fluid?

If it is tranny fluid, yes you will lose about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart. Just buy a quart of fluid when you buy your filter and you will be ok.

Dan

Engine oil every 1000 till 5000? Are you guys crazy?

What is the point? I have heard various justifications before like flushing out assembly dirt. Give me a break. Do you really think there is "assembly dirt" in these engines? Now days engines are assembles in controlled environments.

Plus your engine is equiped with a filter. Thats what it is for, to filter dirt.

Must have money to drain.

This is not a flaming reply but I can't believe the lengths some go to for "engine care". If some is good than more must be better.


Of course this is my opinion only.

Even though it is way overkill, I am going to change on a 5000 mile interval.


Mark

As far as oil changes, I'm anal about taking care of my vehicles, My friend is an ASE certified mechanic and worked for GM before venturing off to bigger and better things in life. He drives a GMC Sierra, I asked him about oil change intervals on my 2005 Silverado D/A, he suggested what the owners manuel recommends or when your dash display tells you it's time. I told him I wanted to change the oil at 1000, 3000, and then at 5000 mile from there on, he told me it was a waste of money and these engines are run and dyno'd before leaving the factory, I think he would know. In my years of owning many vehicles and changing oil earlier than called for and using synthetic oils, it really comes down to your own PEACE OF MIND!! One other thing you need to realize, are you doing more harm to the motors nowadays by changing the oil too soon because the oils and motors nowadays are designed to go further and run cleaner.

My initial quetion really generated a varied response. Though the one that stands out for babble was the cokments from "Romark1".

My Point.
All engines are assembled in a controlled environment, that's not in question! The basis of the question and reply's are related to the motor break in period (rings will seat, etc..) There are trace levels of metals found in the oil during the initial break in, more so, than following this period, if you think this is incorrect, have your engine oil analyzed.
Oil breaks down and is labled in terms of TBN valuesScientifically speaking, the TBN is one of two "neutralization number" tests run on oils. The TAN (total acid number), which is used for hydraulic oils, is the other. The TBN measures the total basedity of an engine oil; that is, how much base (as in, a base vs. an acid) additive is in the oil to offset the deleterious effects of acids coming into the oil from combustion and other sources. However, the TBN is not the only factor to consider when determining how long an oil can be used.
By comparing the TBN of a used oil to the TBN of the same oil in virgin condition, the user can determine how much reserve additive the oil has left to neutralize acids. The lower the TBN reading, the less active additive the oil has left.

At the heart of most oil analysis businesses is a spectrometer. It is the machine that allows us to quantify wear metals, additives, and contaminants in oils, making oil analysis a useful service in predicting potential problems in machines of all types (though it's most useful for internal combustion engines).The spectrometer records each element's information into a chart and uses the chart to determine how much of each element is an in actual oil sample

Make an educated statement, rather than regurgitating back yard babble. Your commnet about the filter, you must of thought all day about that. There' s limitation factors based on any filer. Look it up! <5.5um at 13% by volume.

Now that I have had some time to think something up, I will give it a whirl. First of all thank you Mr. Harrington for condensing my reply into useless babble. :blahblah:

My intended input is simply that these issues that you so complexly describe has been going on since the begining of the automobile. My point is this. There are millions of prople who perform regular oil changes without the every 1000 mile interval you so exquisitly describe and their cars/truck engines outlast the body they reside in.

Anything can be analyzed to a trace compound but in the end does it really matter?

I thought it was friction that made our rings seat in the first place. At least that's the way it was when I was in shop class.

I realize the fact that this "oil change" subject is very close to people's hearts. After all it is usually the one thing that we all can do when tinkeritus sets in and we must do some overboard maintenance to "insure" the "life blood" of our truck.

So go ahead and talk (read babble) about your TAN's and TBN's all you want. I couldn't give a rat's ass.

I too remember what it was like to have my first new truck.

Sounds like you are suffering from cabin fever. Letting that pent up frustration out on someone is just plain rude. If any comment I have made offends you then I apologize. However, don't belittle someone to make a comment on something that is not really that important afterall. I've got better things to do than chart the TBN's and TAN's.

Now excuse me while I go and change my oil!!! :lol:

Why don't we all just lighten up.


Anxiously awaiting your intellectual reply/comments.


Mark

Here is what I did. I bought my '05 used back in November. Thats right, used. I think it was a demo of some sort.

Anyway it had 2080 miles on it. At 3500 miles the engine oil was very dark so I went ahead and changed the oil, transmission fluid and filter ( just a drain, no flush) rear end and transfercase.

After reading somewhere that the first transmission and rear end change should be around 3500 miles I decided to do everything.

I now plan to stick with every 5000 miles oils and filter and 10000 transmission oil and filter. (never a transmission flush though)

Realizing that every 5000 miles is still overkill, thats just what I do.

I am thinking of adding the Nicktane filter kit but that will be a little while. So for now I plan to change the fuel filter every 10000

I always use A/C Delco parts and never any Fram.



Mark