How hard is it to replace the IP? Is it something that I could do myself if I have never done before, or should I have someone who has done it before do it and I watch to see how he does it? I need to replace it this week, horse shows are starting back up, and that is how I get my horses to the show! :lol:

It's not hard but it can take a whole day to do the first time.

You have to remove the intake, then the lines(keep track of where they go) then remove the 3 bolts on the outside of the housing and three inside the oilfill hole. note the position of the keyed slot relative to the boltholes, put the new pump in the exact same spot, replace bolts,fuel lines and intake. Prime the filter bowl, open a few injector lines and crank till fuel comes out. Then start it.

Thank you QM. I have another question, as of right now the truck still runs, but it acts up, and I have a little 2 horse bumper pull trailer, and it seems to work a little to pull it empty, will I gain some pulling power after I replace this IP? By the way, I am changing tomorrow, wish me luck! LOL!

Make sure you get the right pump! Yours could go either way! 5068 or 5521, need to make sure you replace with the right one!!!!

Thank you for the reminder TDG, it just so happens that I have the 5068 pump that was only used in 94 on 1 ton trucks, already checked it out, thanks TDG. But do you think I will gain any power on the new pump?

I doubt the new pump will show any gains unless your old one was junk. I'd change the Oil pressure switch while I was in there and maybe even change the wastegate solenoid as preventive maintance.

How do you know it is your IP if it still runs?

DS pump can be in pretty bad shape before the truck won't run at all...
DP is right, not likely you will gain much performance wise, but it depends whats wrong with it, you should get closer to what the truck did when it was new.

Well, anything is better than what is was running like. I am almost finished, but I have one question, when I took my intake off, there was a thing in the valley of the engine that looks like a OPS that has nothing plugged into it. Anyone have ideas why its there? I already replaced the OPS, so that can't be it. Thanks for the help, and I will keep you posted on when the truck is finished, and how it runs.

Could you be more specific as to what was in the valley?

If your looking for more power from your pump, get it in and running and research how to advance the timing to ~8.5*

Is this what your reffering to, this is my 2000.

Yes, its that little sensor that looks just like a OPS in front of the fuel filter canister, but there wasn't anything plugged into mine. Unless that is the OPS and I replaced the wrong thing, LOL! QM I was just wondering if the new pump wouldn't be as sluggish as the old pump was, cause it just seemed like loaded or empty it was the same, no throttle response, all the other 6.5's around here pull pretty good but I was getting passed by small blocks, we will talk upgrades when I get the truck running, LOL! Thanks everyone.

I got the truck put back together with the new pump and went to turn it over and fuel went everywhere! All down the engine valley and down the rear of the engine, so I am going to take the intake off again tomorrow to see what could be leaking. Anyone have any suggestions on where or what I should start at?

fuel inlet or return from the pump not installed, or maybe the second line that tees off the bottom of the fuel filter base to the bleed fitting at the front it disconnected. Probably going to be something you can fix without removing the lower intake I'd guess.

Yep, it was the line that comes off of the "T" on the bleeder, I got that fixed, and the truck is getting fuel to the injectors, and everything seems to be in order. The only thing now is trying to get it started, I ran the batteries down trying to start it, now I am letting them charge over night, are these engines usually hard to start after replacing the IP? If not, what could cause mine to be? Thanks TDG for the suggestions.

Yes hard to start till you get the air out of the fuel lines so IP can build pressure

Well, I thought it was getting fuel to the injectors, but it was the fuel that had leaked onto the side of the motor that I saw from the leak it had from the drain "T". I have everything hooked up, all the fuel lines to the IP, but nothing, no fuel to the injectors, the LP is working properly so fuel is getting to the IP, does anyone have any ideas? Could they have given me a bad pump maybe? I really need this truck by morning, or the latest saturday, please someone help. Thanks.

don't worry. You may have air in the pump and it takes a load of cranking to pass it. loosen every injector line on the driversside till fuel is coming out when you crank, then tighten them and it should fire over shortly. Did you make sure and bleed all the air from the filter housing first? I usually jump the fuel pump relay for this.

Man, I have been cranking for ever, but should there be any air or anything coming out of the injector lines? There isn't even air coming out of the lines.

Jump the fuel pump so it runs all the time and open the bleed valve on the filter till fuel comes out there then crank it over with the lines at the injector opened till fuel comes out there, tighten them back up and get a go battery charge going and it should fire up shortly. ALWAYS use a good hot battery or booster so you have good voltage going to the starter at all times.

If fuel doesn't leak out when you have the lines "cracked" open then it's an electrical issue. Did you hook the fuel solenoid up (red and black wires) on the back of the pump? the black wire grounds on ttop on the IP housing. IT WILL NOT START WITHOUT THE BLACK WIRE GROUNDING TO ENGINE(the lid of the IP is the engine).

Yes, its grounded and all the wires are hooked up, but I do have one problem, by battery power is low and all I have is a little bitty charger, so it isn't turning over like it usually does, could that be causing it to take even longer?

Absolutly. When I was trying to restart the '93 it took another diesel truck to jump off before it would start. The battery charger can only do so much.

And it has to turn over at about 100 rpm to make pressure to start.

Well, I might have done a big NO-NO, here is the story. I got it to where there was fuel going to the injectors, but after cranking on it for almost 2 hours, still no start. So I called a friend of mine who is a well known diesel mechanic, and he told me that it is probably out of time. He told me to squirt some ether into it to see if it will start with that, so I do, and then when I went to crank it over the starter was making a wierd noise and it was acting goofy. Like the starter was burned up, wich it was pretty hot since I cranked on it for almost 2 hours. So I turn the key off and then try it again, and now the starter won't engage, it hums. Do you think I did something to the engine with the ether or could it be the obvious and the starter is burned up? And what can ether do to a diesel engine? We have never had any problems using ether in our diesels before, we even used them on our tractors in the winter. So now I don't know what to do.

hum sounds like your starter has had enough. Let it cool down over night and recharge those batteries and see if it will turn over. The starter would be the first thing I would replace IF all the wires and links look good and the batteries check good in the morning.

How is your pump oriented? Should be as close to perpindicular as you can tell judging by the ESO cylinder. You would have to be WAY out on static timing to get a no start. I know we touched on this earlier, but you did verify you took a 5068 pump out and replaced it with a rebuilt 5068 right? If your battery voltage is too low to keep the ECM powered up you won't get her to start.

I fried my starter cranking it too much last summer when my fuel solenoid was dying. It ran about $275 for a rebuilt unit.

Yes TDG, I did replace it with the right pump, and I now have fuel going to the injectors, and yes I do think I fried my starter, but luckely there is a guy in this area that can rebuild them for $50. So hopefully I will have it by next weekend. But anyways, I feel like a real dumb@$$, because I didn't have the crankshaft position sensor plugged in when I wasn't getting fuel, but I quickly found the problem, but I still cranked on it for about 2 hours then maybe fried my starter with no start, but I have a question, could I try to pop start it, or would that be to hard on it? Friend of mine said that is the only way he could get his to start after a IP replacement, but I don't want to possibly damage anything that could be prevented.