I have 2002GMC Duramax SB CC. Air bags, 265E tires. Heavy 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel trailer, at or slightly over max GCWR. . Generally I’m ok with towing, except for brakes. I have had smoke rolling of the rears on a couple of occasions. Once when I did not have the Prodigy set correctly. But just yesterday I smoked them on a downhill stop, and the Prodigy WAS set right this time.

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Question: The truck has brakes to stop the truck. The trailer has brakes to stop the trailer. Seems to me if the trailer had adequate brakes, the brake issue on the truck would not be as much of a factor. I realize it does not work that way, but STONG trailer brakes versus so so is another matter. I cannot get the brakes to lock up on this trailer, Holiday World Presidential, as per the Prodigy brake controller instructions on setting the power. Can/How the trailer brakes be changed to get to the point that they will lock up?

You may want to look into a different controller. www.brakesmart.net

Have you checked the trailer brakes themselves?? Are they adjusted properly? The number one problem with poor trailer brakes that I have found is they are not adjusted properly. Are the magnets worn or shot? How are the brake shoes? Are they grounded properly (another problem with quick installs at the factory)? Are the drums glazed over?

If you use the manual knob, you should be able to lock them up when you try.

Trailer brakes may need to be adjusted as stated above, but if you have the dual setting (not sure what you controller looks like) go about 15-20 mph on a straight line and slide the manual trailer brake control over if the trailer brakes don't lock up adjust until they do lock up. Then make another run and adjust down on the trailer brakes until at 20mph they almost lock but don't. That will insure that you have maximum trailer braking without locking them up.

Rgds,
J

If the trailer brakes are good then they will stop the truck too, or at least try to.

If the prodigy set to full voltage and manually applied won't lock up your trailer brakes, then the problem is on the trailer, not the controller. I would check out the trailer for wiring that is too small, or poor connections. This would include checking the ground connections.

You should also be able to talk to the axle manufacturer (or check their website) about diagnosing the brakes. You may need new magnets (or perhaps larger magnets) to get the tires to lock under full power given the weight on the axles.

Trailer brakes need adjusting. You can test with ohm meter, and a partner at the Prodigy, to see how much current is flowing to each of the trailer brakes, which can indicate a bad magnet/set of magnets, or broken wires, or too small a guage of wires (not uncommon), that would reduce your braking. However, if your unit has drum brakes (most do), then they are most probably out of adjustment. There should be some diagram on how to adjust in your trailer papers, look for documents on the axles and brakes. (This can be as simple as sticking a flat blade screwdriver into a slot, on the inside part of the brake assembly, and turnig a little star wheel until it clicks. Continue until you meet resistance before it will click, and the brakes will be adjusted to just before they rub all the time. Repete for each brake, re-adjust your brake-controller, and do the test as suggested by JKP above.

If you have electric over hydrolic disks, then you need new pads (these are electronically self-adjusting).

RF

Agree with everyone else, Trailer Brakes are the culprit. I can easily lock up all six wheels on mine with the Prodigy.

If brakes are not in adjustment, they are just applying part way, not stopping well and getting HOT!. Adjust them by jacking up the wheel, turning the star wheel until the wheel won't spin, then backing off 3 clicks or so until there is no drag. It is not necessary to be able to "LOCK" the wheels. In fact, locked wheels only slide and braking is worse.

If you tow regularly and in mountain terrain, consider changing to disc brakes. They won't stop any better but are self adjusting and much more resistant to overheating and fade. They are hydraulic, therefore very smooth. Because you will need an electric to hydraulic actuator, it isn't a cheap conversion but you will like the results.

Bob

Well looks like I have some trouble shooting to do. I just pulled this trailer Houston to <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:City><st1:place>Pittsburgh</st1:place></st1:City>, intend to let it sit for quite awhile....so this may take some time to resolve. I suspect the trailer brakes are simply out of adjustment. I bought new and have never been satisfied with how the brakes have worked. . I have the prodigy set quite high. Trailer has drum brakes. I'll start by doing the brake adjustment, and voltage test. Thanks to everyone for the advice.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>