transfer case problems [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: transfer case problems


mattdmts
01-25-2009, 11:34 PM
did ne body else have any problems with the transfer case bolts loosing and leaking all the fluid out. mine did and the transfer case is junk now. Anyone know a good place to get a new one for a good price

dalew3168
01-25-2009, 11:57 PM
try www.car-part.com for a used one,but i found out the hard way that the transfer case is supposed to be installed to the transmission off the truck and trans on end for automatics.not sure of that but you will fine the part on that site.

1LTREATR
01-26-2009, 06:07 PM
Are you sure thats what happened and there was no hole in the tcase?

mattdmts
01-26-2009, 06:24 PM
not that i know of. it was leaking out of where the two halfs come together.

mattdmts
01-26-2009, 06:28 PM
Has ne body else had this problem?

randy_the_hack
01-26-2009, 10:20 PM
Moved to Drivetrain...

Jasondt2001
01-26-2009, 10:42 PM
Do a search for "case rub" and you'll find TONS of stuff.

mattdmts
01-27-2009, 01:10 PM
well i need the truck to go for work. its about a 120 miles trip i put fluid back in the transfer case. if i dont put it in 4 wheel drive should i be ok to drive it. there is no noise when driving in 2 wheel drive.

mattdmts
02-02-2009, 05:30 PM
im looking at rebuilding this transfer case on my own. where can i get parts to rebuild it, and how difficult is it. and how much money?

Tolliwacker
02-02-2009, 05:44 PM
First off, look at the pump rub issue, and I bet my money that is it!

You will need to Patch the hole and refill till you can do a permanate fix on it.

I put a patch on mine, lasted more than 10,000 miles before I got it fixed permantly.
If you put fluid in, it will just pump out, look at your tailgate if you drive highway speeds, or look at your trailor if you are pulling, you will see fluid on them.

Now if you are hell bent on spending money to fix something that may not be broke, then go for it. But I would try to find what the problem is, and I bet you have a Tiny little hole where the pump housing inside the case has rubbed it's way out! Can be fixed for as little as 90 bucks, parts fluid and sealer. and as high as replacement 1800 bucks or more.

Do some reading on here for Pump rub

Tannerjpowell
02-02-2009, 05:45 PM
im looking at rebuilding this transfer case on my own. where can i get parts to rebuild it, and how difficult is it. and how much money?

X2 on whatever Tolli says :)

You may not need a complete rebuild if you caught it soon enough. Merchant carries some parts as does tptrans.com and Kennedy diesel (prolly some others too if you look).
Install the case saver plate or merchant pump housing. Check the housing for cracks. Check for the pump rub hole.

When i took mine into AAMCO, they swore to me it was leaking at the split, but i had already found the pump rub hole. The guys turned out to be monkey's with wrenches, but they still misdiagnosed it.

Check these links for more info:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140732


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269715&highlight=tolliwacker+rub post #4

mattdmts
02-02-2009, 09:53 PM
it forsurely is the case rub but i was gana weld it shut for a permenant fix and then rebuild the transfer case if i can find a rebuild kit somewhere. there was no fluid in it when i opened it up and there was metal pieces coming out of the plug. so it forsurely junk. but where can i find a rebuild kit?

ericw13
02-03-2009, 09:36 AM
trust me it will cost you more to fix it than replace it. I found my transfercase at thransfercase express for 1350 i believe and it came with a 1 year warranty. whne you rebuild yo will surely need the pump and all the bearings, and you will more than likely need the mainshaft and the sleeve that slides on it. and you can bet that you will need a rear case half as well so you are looking at 1300 worth of parts or 1300 in a new reman t-case.

Tannerjpowell
02-03-2009, 09:58 AM
it forsurely is the case rub but i was gana weld it shut for a permenant fix and then rebuild the transfer case if i can find a rebuild kit somewhere. there was no fluid in it when i opened it up and there was metal pieces coming out of the plug. so it forsurely junk. but where can i find a rebuild kit?


Where are you located at? There's a wrecker yard here (near houston) with a totaled truck. He's asking for $1k for the 263xhd out of an '04 w/128k miles. PM if you want his number. I could go look at it for you if you want.
Unless he drops the price down to ~700 i think it's a bit too much, but 1k is his asking price.

Keep in mind that some of these reman. units don't have a pump rub fix installed.

I think from GM they are selling a mix of old parts without the fix and new parts with an updated pump housing that doesn't cause the problem.
What i mean is it would be worth your while to buy a case saver plate ($60 shipped?) and a tube of RTV, open up the case and see what's installed and add the case saver plate if there's nothing else there to stop the rub.
If it's a warranty piece, ask them what's in it.
Otherwise you might end up right back where you started.

Cougar GT-E
02-03-2009, 11:07 AM
it forsurely is the case rub but i was gana weld it shut for a permenant fix and then rebuild the transfer case if i can find a rebuild kit somewhere. there was no fluid in it when i opened it up and there was metal pieces coming out of the plug. so it forsurely junk. but where can i find a rebuild kit?


You do know the case is magnesium, right? That's not so easy to weld. Just mentioning it in case you were thinking it was aluminum.

jb

Tolliwacker
02-03-2009, 04:16 PM
it forsurely is the case rub but i was gana weld it shut for a permenant fix and then rebuild the transfer case if i can find a rebuild kit somewhere. there was no fluid in it when i opened it up and there was metal pieces coming out of the plug. so it forsurely junk. but where can i find a rebuild kit?


Sure there is metal shavings and such coming out, but you will be suprised that that case is not as far gone as you think.

Install the case saver fix, fill the case with Synthetic 5W-30 Motor oil and see if it is still good.

If not, then worry about replacement.

Also like Cougar sais, that is a Magnesium case, so it will burn like the SUN if you do not treat it like Mag when you weld it. It is possible to do, but A good JB Weld Patch will hold IF You do the repair inside.

Just my opinion, and it may save you money!

mattdmts
02-03-2009, 04:24 PM
i did plug the hole and put transfer case fluid back in and when i put it in 4 and give it ne gas it clunks and then catches. is the systhetic oil do anything different that the transfer case fluid will? and do u think with those sign is it junk forsure?

Tannerjpowell
02-04-2009, 03:34 PM
i did plug the hole and put transfer case fluid back in and when i put it in 4 and give it ne gas it clunks and then catches. is the systhetic oil do anything different that the transfer case fluid will? and do u think with those sign is it junk forsure?

Posts 17 and 18 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3115474#post3115474
Sounds like your situation kinda.

could be a DIY job still.

Pull it, break it open and see what you got. If it's junk inside (broken teeth, stretched chain, worn forks, bad clutches) buy a reman. t-case and bolt it in.

What do you have to loose?

Good luck :)

Tolliwacker
02-04-2009, 10:25 PM
Exactly!

njloco
02-04-2009, 10:47 PM
If you plug the hole with epoxy, make sure to heat up the service first a couple of times and use a degreaser that leaves no residual film each time to thoroughly clean the service. Use some rough grit sand paper and roughen up the service and then degrease again. Use some metal screening material and put the epoxy over it, don't glob it on, just use enough to just cover the screen completely. There are other better ways to repair with epoxy, let me know if you need the info. All of these are permanent repairs.

Ken

Tannerjpowell
02-05-2009, 11:55 AM
The epoxy is a permanent repair for the rear housing. You still need to fix the internals and install a case saver plate or else you will wear through your fix and continue to introduce metallic particles to your fluid, possibly increasing overall wear.

Ken's fix could save you about $200 if your rear housing isn't too bad. As long as it hasn't cracked, the snap ring groove for the rear bearing isn't worn and the tail shaft sleeve looks ok, you're good to go.

Post up some good pictures and I'm sure a few of us can look it over for you.