When replacing my exhaust I noticed my oil cooler lines leaking badly. I had a set of 48" long 1/2" stainless flex hydraulic hoses with Hydraulic female flares on the ends. I removed oil filter adapter (truck is 4x4) to access the stock block fittings. Removed the springs clips and the block fittings. Replaced the block fittings with 3/8"Npt x 1/2" hydraulic flare 90 degree. Screwed the new lines on
(Cut a 7/8" wrench in half for lack of room) put the filter adapter back on and moved on the the cooler.

Removed the fittings from the cooler and cut the aluminum tube after the bends on the straight pipe under the shroud. Installed standard plumbing flarenuts to the tubes and flared the aluminum. Screwed a 1/2" hydraulic flare x NPT female fitting on the new lines, and a 1/2" flare by 1/2 MIP adapter on the aluminum ends. Screwed it all together... No leaks.... No clips.... No rubber hose.

Nice. I jsut replaced mine with the factory units and man what a pain. I will never do that again.....sent me to the poor house too. Keep us posted on them. I'll be doing something else/similiar next time mine start leaking again.

Awesome:ro) ! Any pics of anything would be appreciated!

Here's a picture. The connections to the block are 3/8"mip x 1/2" JIC hydraulic flare 90. These are 1/2" SAE flare x 1/2" mip screwed into
1/2 JIC flare X 1/2" FIP adapter.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3427&stc=1

Very nice! That should help a lot of people out including myself. I did it the old hose clamp method by cutting off the aluminum crimps, but I want to do something that looks better. Although I have no leaks, your setup is exactly what GM should have done. Thanks for the time.


Dan

Question: Mine starting to leak, but can not GETAROUNDTOIT for a few weeks.

I put some clamps over the crimps and slowed the leak somewhat.

? How far into the hose do the metal lines go? I clamped in the middle of the crimp, did I catch the metal tube.

Question: Mine starting to leak, but can not GETAROUNDTOIT for a few weeks.

I put some clamps over the crimps and slowed the leak somewhat.

? How far into the hose do the metal lines go? I clamped in the middle of the crimp, did I catch the metal tube.
You got it, but generally when you use the clamps, you cut the Al crimps off first.

i will be doing the braided stainless next week. having two hoses made up

Is the factory line rubber or braided? I bought my truck used and notice that it's braided on mine.

dave you are lucky the original ones are aluminum and rubber and ALL leak

Would rubber coated hydraulic lines work? Like the ones on farm equipment?

I just got the dremmil tool this weekend to do mine too. I thought that you cut the al crimps to put "reliefs" in them to put the hose clamp around and then tighten. I guess you guys just cut them all the way around and remove completely?

I guess you guys just cut them all the way around and remove completely?
Thats what i gather from the conversations about them, but i think i'll be removing them completely and installing something new like stainless instrument lines.

I thought that JK or Greg Landyt had something like that premade. Its the best way to repair an oil cooler line leak for sure.

My factory lines have a steel braid under the rubber cover. Late 96

I want to replace mine with hydraulic lines. I am mounting my oil filter remotely and want to do both at the same time.

What is the connection at the cooler it self. It looks like a proprietary fitting.

Is there any screw on adapters?

The hydraulic shop I went to did not have anything that would crimp to hose and screw to the cooler.

I am going to try an automotive store next but would appreciate a little info so I know my options.

I've cut the Al and used a ferrel and nut to seal it for a cheap short term fix. I've always gotten drips from all three trucks right at the bend in the factory hoses before the oil cooler and had two blow outs where I lost all oil on two seperate occasions. What a nightmare!

I just replaced the rubber portion (mine were steel braided) of my lines two days ago, they were weeping around the crimp. The dealer wanted something rediculous like $75 for one and $55 for the other, by looking at them I can't figure out why one was more than the other. I used a small hack saw tool and cut straight across the crimp and used a flat blade screw driver to peel off the crimp (thin stuff). I got some excellent Aeroquip hose from local supply (2) 20" lenghts ( I cut 2" off of each for a better fit, so 18" installed) with (4) clamps for $15. Once I had the parts I needed the job took @10minutes. I also changed my drain plug out for a magnetic one from NAPA $4.26 P/N 704-136 (1/2-20 size).

The other problem with stock fittings is if wire retainer clip at the block adapter fails you go from 40 to 0 psi oil fast :eek: :eek: :eek: , not condusive to longevity of an engine at power under load.

I replaced mine with rubber hydraulic hoses after seeing this post. I just went to Farm & Fleet and bought two 3/8" x 48" hoses (about $5 each) two 90° 3/8" hydraulic pipe thread adapters (about $2 each) two 1/2" flare nuts (about $1 each) and two 3/8" pipe thread to 1/2" flare adapters. (about $1.50 each)
I had to have one of the hoses aim straight back and loop around to get the oil filter back on but otherwise was a good fit.

I just put my lines back on last night. I took them to a hydraulic shop and they cut out the old rubber part and crimped on new ends (swivel). They put a ferrel (sp?) on the aluminum end w/nut. I have factory ends at the cooler and block, but new double wire hose in the center section. Will see how it works out this weekend. I'm going to try to get my grille back on tonight along with the oil filter adapter.

SnowDrift

I replaced mine with rubber hydraulic hoses after seeing this post. I just went to Farm & Fleet and bought two 3/8" x 48" hoses (about $5 each) two 90° 3/8" hydraulic pipe thread adapters (about $2 each) two 1/2" flare nuts (about $1 each) and two 3/8" pipe thread to 1/2" flare adapters. (about $1.50 each)
I had to have one of the hoses aim straight back and loop around to get the oil filter back on but otherwise was a good fit.

OK whatnot the fitting in the block is 3/8 pipe?
how did you connect to the cooler side?
Got any pictures?

I caution those of you who are using ferrels on the cooler lines. I have see many alumimum lines break on the equipment I work on at the ferrel due to vibration. For this reason compression fittings are not used. (Natural gas fired mostly) I would use a flare connection to the aluminum.

OK whatnot the fitting in the block is 3/8 pipe?
how did you connect to the cooler side?
Got any pictures?
I did it just like it the pictures above. I just cut the pipe, slid the flare nuts on and then flared the pipe.

Ok, I got to worrying about this, so I contacted the manufacturer on the specs. for the lines used. Weatherhead said the lines would turn to goo over 212 deg. F and would begin to crack and break under 0 psi under -40 F (not that it gets that cold here, though). If the water sees 280 deg. F, then I'd imagine the oil would see close to that, as well. If not, then at least +212. Not worth the risk to me.

I opted to go with the OEM lines, as I understand they're higher quality than the originals. I was told they are using a new crimp and different hose than in the past. At any rate, I'm back on the road again, as of last night about 8:00.

SnowDrift

when the cooler lines started leaking on my tahoe when i had her for the 2nd time [and gm didn't want to warrenty them as they said "we tested with leak detector and no leaks found" i just took some rags and tiewrapped them to the lines... they leaked into the rags and not onto my driveway... was like for about 2 years and like that when i sold her... [stupid design those lines were]