I installed a used 6.5 complete this week, except I used my old, sensors, turbo and wiring. I left the injection pump, pmd, that came with the used engine.

I started it up and it idled fine but when I wanted to rev it up it would spurt to 3,000 then shut off to idle then back to 3000, etc. I tried to drive it but off idle it would accelerate for a split second then come back to idle. SO I changed the solenoid that is mounted on top of the injection pump and it works fine except for one thing.

At this point I have no thermostats in it.

When I accelerate,.. it seems a little tounchie, as in,... I give it a little and it wants to go faster than what it should. Then if I am cruising all is fine but if I decelerate slightly, it shuts off to idle then comes back on etc. This only happens under light throttle.

I am thinking that I have to relearn my accelerator, what do you guys think?

Also, I want to install new thermostats. The only ones the parts store has are 190* F. Is that correct?

what year is your used engine also what injector pump does it have?

Make sure you get the right brand of thermostat. Search for it; I don't remember which brand.

i would put the IP/pmd that you had on it before. you don't know what has been run through the "new" Ip or if the pmd is a good one. i know it will be a pain but at least you know what you had.

Some have reported that Robert Shaw T-Stats are OK, ALL have reported that A/C Delco T-Stats work correctly (makes sense to me), Most have reported that store branded T-Stats don't last very long / or don't work right fresh out of the box.
I'd go with Delco...

It is a 1998 with a Standyn pump. Changing the IP would be a huge job, I could change the pmd easily enough.

SO Delco it is. thanks.

Run threw the checklist and post the results. It will give us a bigger picture of what all you have checked and maybe overlooked till you started the checklist.

Wish you luck!

It is a 1998 with a Standyn pump. Changing the IP would be a huge job, I could change the pmd easily enough.
Last year, while trying to get my truck on the road again after years of sitting, I ran into a problem with a 'touchy' accelerator pedal. Here's what the good folks at Heath recommended:

The folks at Heath have a ‘quick and dirty’ test procedure: Try holding the throttle at 2,000rpm. If the engine overshoots and won’t hold steady, suspect a bad fuel solenoid.

Of course, that's the non-replaceable round thingy at the back of the pump. Sure 'nuff, mine was bad. :( My truck idled fine, but the moment I touched the accelerator, engine rpms would shoot up past the redline. It takes less than 10 seconds to run this test, and it might save you from spending some serious $$$ needlessly.

There was a thread some time ago ,I think, by Goldsburg re T stats . I seem to recall he was pointing out that AC Delcos (dont know about Robert Shaw) had some unique feature (diverting coolant so instead of being able to go thru bypass with t stat open, more had to go to rad ). I think Jiff has a handle on this.

The throttle is so sensitive on these trucks that it is very hard to hold a steady rpm with your foot, atleast in park or neutral. Mine has a pump that is only 25,000 miles old at most and it has always been that way. It will not run past red line tho, ever.

i would put the IP/pmd that you had on it before. you don't know what has been run through the "new" Ip or if the pmd is a good one. i know it will be a pain but at least you know what you had.

I would take the time to try the ip that is on the engine. There is know way to know if it is good or bad. But if you replace it now you will never know. There would be no more work other than fill ing the coolant system and doing a tdc offset relearn. But the pmd I would use a known good 1.
If the ip turns out fine you can save your old 1 as a spare.

Hey Typhoon, I am interested in what a good used 6.5 goes for in this neck of the woods...Hope you are not affected by the flooding...

Hey Typhoon, I am interested in what a good used 6.5 goes for in this neck of the woods...Hope you are not affected by the flooding...
I got this one as a core cause it had been in a fire. I paid $250.00 for it.

Oh, it did flood down my road but not my house..

I bought a second one for $500.00

I would change the IP, If it has been in a fire then you never will know what is melted inside. If you have a known good one, there are instructions on here on how to replace an IP.

I just finished the "accelerator relearn" on my truck. It shifts better/crisper now and it no longer stumbles when I come off of the accelerator. However in neutral I can not keep the rpm at 2000. However slight of a movement I make on the petal, it immediately revs up to red line and when I let off, it comes back to idle.

I added fuel injector cleaner and see if that helps.

I am thinking of relocating the PMD, the local dealer wants $165.00 for the kit, is this sound right? Does it come with an aluminum mounting plate?

relocating the PMD, the local dealer wants $165.00 for the kit, is this sound right?
robbery. you can make your own extension and get a heat sink and mount it on the bumper. also get the "grease" to help w/ the heat transfer. i have an aluminum heat sink i will sell ya real cheap.