Has anyone ever replaced a W/T grill with a billet aluminum grill?

Also, is anyone using top loading batteries instead of side terminals?

there never seem to be any grills other than the basic replacement plastic ones. Yes, I use the top terminals. I hate the sides and the tops provide more room, as well as better connectivity. And easier to work on :D

When I built my 383 stroker, I changed to top mount terminals. When I get my new 6.5 I will be changing to top mount also, just because I think they're better.

How did you go about converting it?

Step 1. Bought new battery (red top optima)
Step 2. Bought top mount battery post terminals that clamp onto my existing cable.
Step 3. Cut old terminals off ends of existing cable.
Step 4. Bolted new top mount terminals to existing cable.
Step 5. Installed new battery, and clamp on new terminal.
Step 6. Felt good knowing I could see the condition of my terminals, and their not hiding behind some plastic covers.
I got these heavy brass (I think) terminals.

Step 1. Bought new battery (red top optima)
Step 2. Bought top mount battery post terminals that clamp onto my existing cable.
Step 3. Cut old terminals off ends of existing cable.
Step 4. Bolted new top mount terminals to existing cable.
Step 5. Installed new battery, and clamp on new terminal.
Step 6. Felt good knowing I could see the condition of my terminals, and their not hiding behind some plastic covers.
I got these heavy brass (I think) terminals.


Good post.:thumb:

Sweet.

Well I searched for close to an hour on the internet looking for billet grilles for the W/T style and couldn't even find one, not even chrome ones. Depending on your access to tools, you could make a good looking grill yourself (check out my garage for the one I made for my 87 GMC). Not sure if you wanted to replace the whole unit though. If not, it's really easy to make "inserts" out of stainless steel mesh.

I have dual post batteries and had custom cables made to connect the positives on the top post and a custom cable made for the side post to starter. Most med. and big rigs use custom cables. I don't know right off hand what gauge cable it is but it's at least twice as big as stock. I've had no connection problems since. It turns over much faster. I'm still using factory style grounds but will have customs made for them eventually. If I remember right they cost about $80 for the 2 cables. Worth every cent. Clamp on battery cable ends are very prone to corrosion bacause they do not seal the cable and don't make as good of connection as crimped and soldered.

i did the same and made new cables, the cables say "2awg" on them, i had to get the battery posts from a semi store (fgi) just the ends were like $70. i made both pos and neg cables from the starter right to the fuse box under the hood,they work great the truck starts fast when it starts.

If you do the battery mod I feel the side post are just as good if not better than a top post. But, to each his own!

The one site that may have both grills could be this site;

http://www.lmctruck.com/

Did you try mr taillight. I believe he is a site vendor. I know he has conversion kits to composite headlights and selection of grilles.

Here is a writeup on going from the worktruck front end to the "regular" style.Sealed beam (W/T) to composite 88-98(2000) (http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/tech-articles2/100877-sealed-beam-w-t-composite-88-98-2000-a.html)

side post is great...if you enjoy these factors

broken side posts
seized side posts
clamping lead to steel(corrosion)
shorted internally batteries
bad boost connections
hard to access terminals
impossible to diagnose without taking apart
easily vibrate loose


oh yeah gm thought that one through

top post all the way baby(unfortunately i couldn't get top post batteries for my truck at 8 at night that were big enough to start it) but next set of batts i buy for the heavy chevy are going to be top post, the burb has top posts though