Where can i get a reliable programmer/chip for my 98 sierra, i'd done some research but i don't really see a lot of choices...Thanks.

Heath or Kennedy Diesel. But gauges & other devices are needed to optimize the truck. These trucks are very low cost resale vs Fords & Dodges so don't skimp on the goodies to get the truck optimized. Educate your self before you start buying.

lotsa places depending on your location. westers in alberta, kennedy, ss diesel, heaths. i am somewhat partial to heaths as he is within a 1/2 days drive. he also timed the engine and installed HO injectors and t/m. might wanna make sure you upgrade in a particular sequence. there are different ways to do it. i did muffler 1st. then gauges, then heaths. a new ecm won't help much unless you do the muffler. gotta get the exhaust out before you can get the fuel in. Ed take a look at this vid..... http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p242/edzzed/?action=view&current=0-70mph001.flv

falling on the flood wishing. O kph never mind.

What would be the advantage of Heaths rather than just getting it from westers. Is it the same tune. Judging by the time stamp on the vid looks like you got 10 or 11 sec 0-100 Nice!

What would be the advantage of Heaths rather than just getting it from westers. Is it the same tune. Judging by the time stamp on the vid looks like you got 10 or 11 sec 0-100 Nice!

Heath does his own. SSD uses Westers.

Heaths tune is his own unique tune. He reportedly used to use Westers, then Z Industries, but the HP-4 and the GL-4 as well as the GL-E are all Bills and only Bills. SSdiesel uses a Westers Tune.

On Edit: RC and I were typing at the same time... lol

Heaths tune is his own unique tune. He reportedly used to use Westers, then Z Industries, but the HP-4 and the GL-4 as well as the GL-E are all Bills and only Bills. SSdiesel uses a Westers Tune.

On Edit: RC and I were typing at the same time... lol

Once again, I don't need no stinkin' chip to be fast. :p:;)

What would be the advantage of Heaths rather than just getting it from westers. Is it the same tune. Judging by the time stamp on the vid looks like you got 10 or 11 sec 0-100 Nice!

i don't know that one tune is better than another. what we on the site know is Ian from heath diesel did 305hp on a dyno. mind you he has heaths upgrades galore as he was employed there. the deciding factor for me is bills customer service is 2nd to none and he is within 1/2 days drive so for me it was worth it to be installed all at once and properly. and i did it when our buck was worth 1.12 Ed

Guys, all i want to do is have a little more HP & TORQUE, specially during towing...Sometime simple really.

I got the Heath GLE for my truck, supposed to be great for towing/fuel economy. If you get too "hot" of a tune, you have to get a EGT gauge and watch it closely if towing heavy.

Guys, all i want to do is have a little more HP & TORQUE, specially during towing...Sometime simple really.


Update your signature so we know what flavor 6.5 we are "opinionating on", if yours is S then we can make it a F reasonably inxpensive that will net a little more power, want gobs more powere then depending on depth of wallet we got some ideas on that also, also you want power or performance, we can suggest a blend for that also.

Heaths tune is his own unique tune. He reportedly used to use Westers, then Z Industries, but the HP-4 and the GL-4 as well as the GL-E are all Bills and only Bills. SSdiesel uses a Westers Tune.

On Edit: RC and I were typing at the same time... lol

Bill never used Westers tunes

Guys, all i want to do is have a little more HP & TORQUE, specially during towing...Sometime simple really.

I understand your delima but, here there are so many people with so much GOOD information & help that you MAY have to sift through it sometimes:D For the most part their hearts are in the right place.:)

IIRC last time I was here with regularity, someone had written something about that in FAQ how to get more power from the 6.5, I mite be mistaken though.

Guys, all i want to do is have a little more HP & TORQUE, specially during towing...Sometime simple really.

open up the exhaust to a 4" = $250-$600,

a cold air intake system of sorts = $100 - $400

and if your inclined enough.. do an optical bump = $free

Hey Doc
A little tongue in cheek there (post 15)?? Ive got to get my son over to show me how to cut & paste again.

IIRC last time I was here with regularity, someone had written something about that in FAQ how to get more power from the 6.5, I mite be mistaken though.

:deal: :secret: :funnypost ):h

Hey Doc
A little tongue in cheek there (post 15)??


Could be :D

I have a S Vin. How do I make it a little faster like the F vin?


Update your signature so we know what flavor 6.5 we are "opinionating on", if yours is S then we can make it a F reasonably inxpensive that will net a little more power, want gobs more powere then depending on depth of wallet we got some ideas on that also, also you want power or performance, we can suggest a blend for that also.

I have a S Vin. How do I make it a little faster like the F vin?

Normally starting with the search button.

Least expensive way is to get a stock F PCM from bone yard $50-150 which takes fuel to 63mm^3/1000 max IP fuel request up from 56mm^3/1000 slightly more hp & tq than the S stock which alkso lets you defeat the dilution with EGR and not coding,

MAF on 97+ goes away, vac pump no longer needed as you can control boost with a TM boost control, shim between EGR valve and upper intake to block egr flow. Then when you can afford it reflash your stock to HP-4 or GLE, ask if you can exchange your F PCM after that for some rebate on the reflash, as depending how many cores heath has on hand you might, repeat might get some refund, provided they have a core shortage and one you send checks out. May not happen but does not hurt to ask.

With 97 you have theft deterrent module so you'll need 97+ from boneyard as it needs to be able to talk to the TD module in steering column. Also needs to be 4x4 PCM preferably one that matches your gear ratio, in bone yard look in glovebox vs RPO code in FAQ list.

Least expensive way is to get a stock F PCM from bone yard $50-150 which takes fuel to 63mm^3/1000 max IP fuel request up from 56mm^3/1000 slightly more hp & tq than the S stock which alkso lets you defeat the dilution with EGR and not coding,

MAF on 97+ goes away, vac pump no longer needed as you can control boost with a TM boost control, shim between EGR valve and upper intake to block egr flow. Then when you can afford it reflash your stock to HP-4 or GLE, ask if you can exchange your F PCM after that for some rebate on the reflash, as depending how many cores heath has on hand you might, repeat might get some refund, provided they have a core shortage and one you send checks out. May not happen but does not hurt to ask.

With 97 you have theft deterrent module so you'll need 97+ from boneyard as it needs to be able to talk to the TD module in steering column. Also needs to be 4x4 PCM preferably one that matches your gear ratio, in bone yard look in glovebox vs RPO code in FAQ list.

Doc, could you slow down just a little so us newbees can follow: I have a 1997 6.5 NA... so will what your saying work to increase my HP?

Doc, could you slow down just a little so us newbees can follow: I have a 1997 6.5 NA... so will what your saying work to increase my HP?

You are going to need a turbo. What he's saying is for going from an L56 to an L65. L56 is LD emissions turbocharged and L65 is HD emissions turbo.

You are going to need a turbo. What he's saying is for going from an L56 to an L65. L56 is LD emissions turbocharged and L65 is HD emissions turbo.

Thanks RC, seems all the HP mods mentioned around here are centered around turbo charged engines. I need to add so pony's to my NA 6.5 without spending a lot of $. Could you point me in that direction?

I dropped the cat today but that all I have done so far.

Thanks RC, seems all the HP mods mentioned around here are centered around turbo charged engines. I need to add so pony's to my NA 6.5 without spending a lot of $. Could you point me in that direction?

I dropped the cat today but that all I have done so far.

Any idea what injection pump you have? I reckon it'd be the DS-4, but there's a chance it may be the DB-2. If it is the DB-2, you can do what the 6.2 guys do, turn it up a tiny bit. If it's a DS-4, your best bet is to get in touch with Bill Heath and see what he can do for you. No matter what though, the induction on an NA engine is really limited, and thus, so is the power.

Not much out there for the N/A, lose a turbo/blow a turbo hose on a 6.5 TD and it is wimpy as any other N/A 6.2 or 6.5, that thing got a mech IP or DS4 electronic, 6.2/6.5 is not wimpy per-sei just limited in power.

Diesel power is all about airflow more you have more power you get out of the engine until you reach its fuel supply limitiation or hit the fatigue point of it's metal parts, turbos are 50+ Hp adders, best bang for the buck.

You can go into it and balance-port-tweak the IP and get a better running 6.5 na with a little more grunt, or for same money/effort go to boneyard and make it a 6.5 turbo and up the ante.

IIRC 6.2/6.5 n/a is 135 flywheel rating, vs 195 on the turbo, some of us with mods get more than 200 at rear wheel, Bill Heath estimated 500 Hp at flywheel on land speed racer twin turboed 6.5 he ran 153 mph with at Bonneville this year

Any idea what injection pump you have? I reckon it'd be the DS-4, but there's a chance it may be the DB-2. If it is the DB-2, you can do what the 6.2 guys do, turn it up a tiny bit. If it's a DS-4, your best bet is to get in touch with Bill Heath and see what he can do for you. No matter what though, the induction on an NA engine is really limited, and thus, so is the power.

OK thanks, I will try Bill tomorrow and see what he suggest. I've been spending a lot of time searching these threads the last couple of days and have learned alot... but not much as far a pumping up the NA 6.5. I really need about 40 hp so I can climb the local hills and maintain 60-65 MPH. Right now I can't:mad: Of course I am pushing a 6' x 8' box @ 8,000 lbs... LOL

if you have stock exhaust you mite get some assist there but Bill would know, he's worked with the military and if I know Bill has a trick or 2 up his sleeve even for a n/a.

Not much out there for the N/A, lose a turbo/blow a turbo hose on a 6.5 TD and it is wimpy as any other N/A 6.2 or 6.5, that thing got a mech IP or DS4 electronic, not wimpy per-sei just limited in power. Diesel power is all about airflow more you have more power you get out of the engine until you reach its fuel supply limitiation or hit the fatigue point of it's metal parts, turbos are 50+ Hp adders, best bang for the buck. You can go into it and balance-port-tweak the IP and get a better running 6.5 na with a little more grunt, or for same money/effort go to boneyard and make it a 6.5 turbo and up the ante. IIRC 6.2/6.5 n/a is 135 flywheel rating, vs 195 on the turbo, some of us with mods get more than 200 at rear wheel, Bill Heath estimated 500 Hp at flywheel on land speed racer twin turboed 6.5 he ran 153 mph with at Bonneville this year

I an not sure which pump I have, not sure how to tell:( This is a USPS Van and my local Cheverolet dealer said it's a 3/4 ton van chassie but the USPS says it's a 1 ton. It has a factory 4" exhaust and no flat spots on the cross tube. Lots of basterd parts if you know what I mean:eek:

If I were to go turbo what all do I need besides the turbo itself, will any IP work? From what I read all 6.5 injectors can handel the fuel flow. I guess I will need the intake manifold, probally better off building my on air cleaner setup so I can get to some cold air... Haha.

I an not sure which pump I have, not sure how to tell:( This is a USPS Van and my local Cheverolet dealer said it's a 3/4 ton van chassie but the USPS says it's a 1 ton. It has a factory 4" exhaust and no flat spots on the cross tube. Lots of basterd parts if you know what I mean:eek:

If I were to go turbo what all do I need besides the turbo itself, will any IP work? From what I read all 6.5 injectors can handel the fuel flow. I guess I will need the intake manifold, probally better off building my on air cleaner setup so I can get to some cold air... Haha.
ip ds4 has wires to throttle db has a cable for throttle.

I an not sure which pump I have, not sure how to tell:( This is a USPS Van and my local Cheverolet dealer said it's a 3/4 ton van chassie but the USPS says it's a 1 ton. It has a factory 4" exhaust and no flat spots on the cross tube. Lots of basterd parts if you know what I mean:eek:

If I were to go turbo what all do I need besides the turbo itself, will any IP work? From what I read all 6.5 injectors can handel the fuel flow. I guess I will need the intake manifold, probally better off building my on air cleaner setup so I can get to some cold air... Haha.

What does your injection pump look like? Does it have a throttle linkage going to the accel pedal, or are there a bunch of wires going to the wiring harness? If you look on the drivers side of the IP, is there a black box on it, about the size of a deck of cards?

As for a turbo, IDK if you'd have the room there for a side-mount charger. If you do, then you're going to need a new passenger side manifold, the charger, crossover, and intake. If there's not, you'll need the van (center mount) turbo, which will be similar, but I'm not sure about the exhaust manifolds, but there should be room for it.

I have a cable to throttle... is this good?

I have a cable to throttle... is this good?

Means you have the DB-2. Mechanical injection is much cheaper to get the power out of. I suggest searching around (try the 6.2 forum) for how to make more power, since the 6.2 is also an NA mechanical engine.