What type of line should i replace the old ones with,and where to find them at.

Lubrication Specialist. They are a site vendor. Top of page left side. Their kit is less than new junk lines would cost at the stealer. Or have a hydraulic shop make new lines/hoses. There was a post a few weeks ago with lengths and fittings to make your own. Try a search or look back.

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/shop.aspx?catid=10&parentid=0&productid=46

I had lines made at a hydraulic shop, still working fine. Leo http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228769

x2 on hydro hoses love them and the fact they are pipe thread means if something did ever happen your not f-ed to find a quick fix.

What type of line should i replace the old ones with,and where to find them at.

Just do not use new factory lines, they are prone to leak, even new. If you don't have a lot of time then the lubrication specialist would be a good choice. If you have a little time build your own with hydraulic lines. If you build your own, you then have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. To me there is nothing better.

bought my truck a month ago. eninge was recent and dry. i saw the oil leak off the front cross member. it was an oil line. installed the lubrication specialist kit. the oil was coming from the o ring seal where the line attaches to the cooler. looks like it leaked a long time. the a/c was covered in oil and dirt. i am going to replace that soon also.
greg told me several things to be careful- the NPT in the cooler are one time only thread in, alum., strecthes, tighten to where it needs to go, don't take out and redo.
i just did mine last weekend, hope no one minds, thought i'd share what i learned.
every step of this project is really tight.
the oil filter base- get all three new o rings (mine were hard, brittle and broke handling), clean everything good, install the o rings in-place, a thin smear of rtv red or similar on the o rings. once tighted, they shouldn't leak for a long time.
i mounted the oil cooler line brackets to the motor mount (it's hard to get to). the SS lines touched the motor mount, the oil dipstick, the block heater wire, and one spot on the front of cross member. i cut 5/8" hose to length and slit, i slid over the two lines so they touch only the rubber. the SS could have been damaged or what they touch, this isolates.
what i did;
the oil filter base nut is 1 3/8" socket. when re-tighten, get as tight as you can w/1/2 ratchet.
the block fittings - sealant; i use about 6 wraps of teflon tape (makes threads tighter) and a coat of paste teflon on that (kind of a ring at the tip of the thread). paste will seal better. also, they are really hard to reach. the worst part is the wrench (1" or 15/16") only fit on two sides of fitting. the fitting is rounded on other two sides. you have to swing wrench as far as you can, then reverse. one short stroke you can't wrench it. i used a clean 3/8" socket extension, slid it inside the fitting (fits tight) and swung it a few degrees.
now what i found as to how far to thread in. the front one, i wanted to go just one more turn, as i rotated it, it hit the block. now take it out and start over, but stop at the right depth.
i stopped threading them when they were still pointing down. threaded lines on. then tried the filter base, needed to turn a little more. then the filter, still more. when doen., the fittings were pretty much forwad. point here is, there is very little room for error. check both fittings and lines against the filter baseand filter a little at a time.
i switched to amsoil ame while at it.
i spoke to todd at heath. he said as far as start up - warm w/block heater, don't allow glow to cycle, turn the key, it will hard start slowly, and not rev up. this is a bypass system, the oil will flow thru the filter normally.
hope this helps. it is all simple steps, but every one is very time consuming to do, IMHO.
jon