:mad:Gentlemen,
I have a stock 93 chevy 170,000 mile 2500HD STD with 4.08
Runs OK after warmed up. With summer diesel can squeeze 21 mpg.
When cold it stumbles, smokes heavy, chokes up and does not run smooth until warmed up at about 140 degrees..about. Has started in freezing weather...always. Antifreeze level is always stable..etc..

I think the injection pump may be getting a bit weak or wearing out.
Have seen on ebay rebuilts for sale at about 400.00 but I know it is well beyond my skill level.
Local dealer did friend of mines in a 97 chev and charged 5,500.00 NO that is not a miss print. IF a rebuilt only costs about 450.00 he got the typical dealer screw job. the price included a new pmd too. No they
did not replace the injectors at that price.

Any one have any recommendations as to what it cost them to have it done? If 5,500.oo is a normal shop cost I can see why people do not repair Chevy diesels. Truck is rust free since I brought it in from west texas.

I like the truck but that cost is rediculous. His dealer was in York PA. I will not mention the name since why give them free advertising.

OR maybe in your opinion it is not the injection pump?
Any shop recommendations?
vr
amccom

How old are the injectors? Can you feather the rpm.......? The checklist might be a good idea.

I would SERIOUSLY look into the cheap stuff first.

If I were you I would learn how and then remove and replace it myself, many green things before the quote you gave.

:wtf1: This is the 4th identical post...

IIRC (I do not deal with stealers but have known folks that did) A dealership HAS to use NEW parts. GM is really proud of their parts. Their labor rate is up there with the guys working on the Space Shuttle.
Super High Parts Prices + Super High Labor Rates = BIG BILL...

{IMHO} IF YOU CAN'T DIY, YOU HAVE THE WRONG ENGINE {IMHO}

Why they're so expensive to have worked done on is beyond me. These trucks are actually fairly easy to work on. Go figure. The stealer's mechanics, for the most part, don't have a clue about these and start with the high $$ stuff and work their way down, merrily adding to your invoice. Troubleshooting seems to be a lost art since the scanners came about.

Go to a dealer for warranty work ONLY... Otherwise, break out the wrenches AFTER you know what's wrong.

Now that I have that off my chest - or keyboard, as the case may be...

amccom:
First fill out your Signature (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/profile.php?do=editsignature) <<< Just a click away :)

Now for the fun part ---- The AFTER you know what's wrong bit.
Actually DO the CheckList (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42248). This is THE BEST way to figure out what may be wrong with your truck. Just copy & paste it with your answers. Don't just fill it out with what you think - Go thru each item and let us know what you find. There are guys & gals on here that WILL try their best to help you get your truck nice and healthy.

Good Luck!!!!

Is the cold advance/high idle switch working?

I just had mine replaced about a month ago for $2700. That was for a new pump, pmd, and labor. The kicker is, the pump didn't fix the problem I was having. I have the old pump, it has over 150K miles on it so I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it.

That charge is more than the value of the truck!!!

Look for a diesel shop, they probably have better mechanics to deal with your truck than the stealership.

But if you DO the diagnostic checklist, we may be able to give you suggestion on what to do. You still have to be able to turn a little wrenches, screwdrivers and check for voltage, etc. In other words, you still have to become our eyes, ears and hands. It is certainly a lot cheaper than stealership and in the process you learn how to fix and maintain your truck economically.

I agree with JMJNET. If I had done my research before I took it into the shop to have the IP changed, I would have found the solution that the shop couldn't find...saving me almost $3K. This forum, combined with detailed schematics of the truck, helped me find the answer. I'll never take it to a shop again unless I know exactly what the fix is and there is some reason I can't do it myself.

[quote=amccom;3059703]:mad:
Local dealer did friend of mines in a 97 chev and charged 5,500.00 NO that is not a miss print. IF a rebuilt only costs about 450.00 he got the typical dealer screw job. the price included a new pmd too. No they
did not replace the injectors at that price.

Any one have any recommendations as to what it cost them to have it done? If 5,500.oo is a normal shop cost I can see why people do not repair Chevy diesels. Truck is rust free since I brought it in from west texas. [quote]

My 1997 GMC was under warranty and the local dealership got to see her 3 times for the same problem :eek: :D They changed the injection pump everytime and to be honest, in hindsight it would of just been the PMD... A simple, say $500 repair but if it wasn't under warranty the previous owner would of had $5000 (x3) repair bills :mad: (Previous owner being my father lol Thats how I know) The quote above is right with GM, they seem to jump onto the higher $ potential problems 1st... :secret::smashfrealol

One trick that I have, my shop although not specializing in diesel, they can do part replacement. Also, they don't mind if I bring my own part and just charge me hourly since I have gone there since 96. So, I found the problem with the help of this site and google. I bought the parts. If I can do it myself, I do it, otherwise, go to him and let him do it. I replaced the ABS wheel sensor like that. It was not tough, except I don't have the big tool to get the hub out. Part is only $25 from the bay and labor is $100 for 1.5 hours. As supposed to bring it in other shop wanting to charge me $250 (parts + labor).

Wow I am not charging enough. I get a rebuilt pump and install it for 850+/- depending on DB2 or DS4, truck or van but the most I charge is 1,000

call these guys...Pensacola Diesel, Inc. 800-622-5103

i got a EFI IP from them for 450 buc's free ship......they should be for a mech.IP about 300 buc's....

Just do the checklist! There is a link to it in my signature. It will cost you a lot less than a new injection pump, plus it will actually diagnose your vehicle and tell us what is wrong with it.

After you get finished with the checklist post your results on here!!

Trust me this will possibly save you some money.

Gentlemen,
thanks for the comments....
I was not yet aware of the checklist.
When the weather permits I will go through the list.
To answer one question the engine does high idle when cold and the idle drops without me fussing with it when warm but after looking at the long
check list it might not be the pump.... I hope not. I do like the truck and
even it it is the pump it is very driveable after warm up and there must be
some resonable mechcanic in the state of PA or VA. And to answer one question... yes the dealers almost force a person to junk a vehicle because of outragous charges.

Gentlemen,
thanks for the comments....
I was not yet aware of the checklist.
When the weather permits I will go through the list.
To answer one question the engine does high idle when cold and the idle drops without me fussing with it when warm but after looking at the long
check list it might not be the pump.... I hope so. I do like the truck and
even it it is the pump it is very driveable after warm up and there must be
some resonable mechcanic in the state of PA or VA. And to answer one question... yes the dealers almost force a person to junk a vehicle because of outragous charges. Since there is no body rust I would like to keep it.
So thanks again and when I am not freezing outside I will try the checklist
vr
amccom

i put in a new injection pump (reman) with pmd and all $750 (also the pump was a bad one i found out after) brought it to the dealer and they put it in another $780 so grand total = $1530 yah all that money spent on a bad pump ... sometime i dissapoint myself