Removing the A pillar for gauges. I have directions for this but wanted a little more help. I started pull the plastic off at the top. Pulling down and into the truck. I see the first brass hanger. The directions tell me to push a flat head screw driver in there to free it. Anyone have more detail than that? Would hate to bust the plastic.

DG,

I just did mine. I used my hands to take it out by pulling at the points with most resistance. Not very scientific but it comes out fine, I don't think you will break it. I found putting it back in more of a problem without chipping etc.
Dan

what you want to do is put one hand on either side of the clip, and pull equally from each side. The ones on top will almost always stay on the truck, and that's fine. Just guide the plastic back into them during install. *Easiest way* As far as the ones in the front, pull equally, one hand near the top, and one hand near the middle. Pull towards the steering wheel. And installing IS a pain, especially w/ that overlap of the new piece. My lowest pod actually sits on the dash.

Also, I used good quality velcro to mount my pod to my factory bezel because I didnt want to drill holes and stuff. Looks awesome and easy to service gauges or put back original.

BornReady6.5,
How/where did you hide the wires? I eventually want to install gauges and would like to know how but right now I have other issues that take priority(If interested see new thread in 6.5 threads)
Thanks,
Mark
P.S. please add pics of the pod mount....;-)

Mark,
I removed the factory bezel or whatever its called and ran the wires and tubing for the boost gauge in the crack between the dash and pillar. I then mounted my gauge pod as low as it would go, actually resting on my dash mat. I then ran the wires for the lights in the gauges in the same place but removed my dash bezel and scotch locked them into my parking lights at the back of the headlight switch, so my lights would come on in my gauges when my headlights are on. You can not see any exposed wires and all the pieces snap back in. Looks factory except my lame parts store was like one shade off of matching my interior, but its close enough it doesnt bother me. And the best part is I didnt have to drill any holes with the velcro....just bite the bullet and spend about 5.00 for some quality velcro that comes in rolls. I got mine at ace hardware. I will work on some pictures for you tomarrow. Let me know if anyone has any questions.

Well got it off. Everytime one poped I kept thinking I was going to find little plastic pieces flying through the air. Going to paint up the pod and if the weather ever stops rain here I might start running wires.

DG photos if possible please, I'm a little confused, you pulling factory plastic off, or some other aftermarket pillar. I looked at that laziness kicked in and decided on going to the Autometer pod route that lays over factory trim.

Don't have a camara for pics. Just pulled the factory plastic off. Hoping to have everything painted and wired this weekend. If its rains like they are calling for then I'll just get the painting done.

No Garage. :( :(

If I ever finish this first addition to the house the garage is the next. Lets just say I'm going to build it big enough to put a lift in it. :ro)

Garage is no help, once you get one they tend to fill up with overflow from the house, I have a 2 car carage, and a 16x 24 shop, you would think I'd have a place to work on mine, but NOOOOOO we need a place for stuff we are storing. Rain I got plenty today 2"/hr last 6 hrs, 16" in last 24 all schools closed many roads impassible due to flood, several rivers will be out of their banks later tonight so even though rain is done, still got hi water & tides to deal with.

That sucks Tim.

I know about the space issue. Even through the addition isn't finished it has started to be filled with stuff. I just got back into doing more work so I had to clean it out. Ended up taking a trailer load of crap out. Worst thing is I'm a pack rat so if I throw it away it has been total used up.:eek:

I lied guys. When I was driving to work this morning I did remember I drilled one hole to run the wires through the factory bezel. Then down thru the crack between the dash and steel pillar. Sorry.

I did mine much the same way. The pod I rec'd from xtreme diesel was not a good fit. It just didn't fit the way I wanted it to. The bottom gague would have sat right on top of the dash. So, I cut the pod some and installed it so the gagues wouldn't hit the dash. I wish I would have thought of the velcro idea but I didn't so I screwed it to the factory pillar trim. I also drilled one hole in the factory trim and ran the wires behind it down thru the dash were there is an existing space. I have attached a picture.

Hmmmmm, I attached a picture but can't find it on the post!

That sucks Tim.

I know about the space issue. Even through the addition isn't finished it has started to be filled with stuff. I just got back into doing more work so I had to clean it out. Ended up taking a trailer load of crap out. Worst thing is I'm a pack rat so if I throw it away it has been total used up.:eek:
Pack rat is my problem also but married to one also our combined pack ratting is the problem, but it's "good junk" can't throw it away, and minute I finally do convince myself to get rid of I'll need it next day the garbage truck runs, what to do, what to do.

Mark,
I removed the factory bezel or whatever its called and ran the wires and tubing for the boost gauge in the crack between the dash and pillar. I then mounted my gauge pod as low as it would go, actually resting on my dash mat. I then ran the wires for the lights in the gauges in the same place but removed my dash bezel and scotch locked them into my parking lights at the back of the headlight switch, so my lights would come on in my gauges when my headlights are on. You can not see any exposed wires and all the pieces snap back in. Looks factory except my lame parts store was like one shade off of matching my interior, but its close enough it doesnt bother me. And the best part is I didnt have to drill any holes with the velcro....just bite the bullet and spend about 5.00 for some quality velcro that comes in rolls. I got mine at ace hardware. I will work on some pictures for you tomarrow. Let me know if anyone has any questions.Sounds good.
I look forward to the pics. I do want the gauges soon but need to get the other problem fixed first, which has to be done this weekend no matter what. I am not looking forward to working in the snow but maybe a way for me to hook up one of my 50' tarps from the house to the garage to cover things up while I'm working. Probably need to set up one of the outdoor fireplaces also for heat. This will be my first time doing this but it has to be done.
I am contemplating ordering the 3" downpipe from Banks since it already has the drill/tap for the pyro/egt gauge. One less step for me. Then I just have to bite it and buy another gasket for the upper intake manifold to I can remove it and drill/tap it for the boost. Tranny temp( I have no clue where/how to install), I'll just deal with that when the time comes. I do like the gauges that change color since I do want them to turn purple on command.
Mark

Still working on the pics. I am A computer idiot....I'll get it though. Sorry about the snow. I actually shaved my head the day before yesterday and got sundburned pretty bad here in AZ. Its a nice 74ish degrees here. I already thinkin about breaking out the swampcoolers foor the shop.

Don't sweatthe timing chain. just dont drop any bolts into the oil pan. Put a rag there when you get to that point. Just line all the marks up on the cam gear and crank sprocket before you take them off the engine. Then just line up the marks on the new stuff and throw everything back together. keep th IP marks lined up too. Everything will go smoothly.

When I did my boost gauge I just reused my old gasket but put a little dap of silicone sealer called "The right Stuff" around the old gasket. Its good stuff and I swear by it. Its about $18 for 2 tubes but it comes with its own gun to apply it. Trust me, Its a great investment. You can actually use it instead of a gasket. Its never failed me and you can get it at napa or whatever. Also drill and tap dead center of the upper intake. Looks better.

Tranny temp sending units usually splice between the tranny cooler line that is returning from the cooler. Just grab a 3/8 or 5/16 compression fitting tee and install the sender on the top of it. Your gauge should come with one..I know the B&M One from summit does. Use teflon tape.

I dont pertain to know everything, but this is I would imagine doing it. Maybe some of the suggestions will actually come in handy.Hope this helps.

Sorry mods for getting off topic a hair.:)

Thanks Born,
I'll get back to you when I'm ready to do the gauges. As with my normal self, I am always researching and dreaming ahead of time.(You never know when the extra flow comes in and you can do the project) . It is always good to be prepared.....LOL

When I installed my gauges, I made 3 seperate holes in the factory trim. I have all electric gauges, so, all I have running up to them are wires from sensors. I then glues my autometer pod to the factory trim with *Duramix* I used one rivet at the top where it was thin, and didn't want glue oozing out. As for my trans gauge... I welded a bung into the trans pan in the rear of the pass. side, and threaded in the sending unit. Worked nice except for when I was brazing it in, I left the sending unit in to keep it centered. The sending unit melted apart due to the fact that it's brass and plastic. I called autometer and told them what happened, and they sent me a new one for free. I have pictures of my install in my signature.

Still working on the pics. I am A computer idiot....I'll get it though. Sorry about the snow. I actually shaved my head the day before yesterday and got sundburned pretty bad here in AZ. Its a nice 74ish degrees here. I already thinkin about breaking out the swampcoolers foor the shop.

Don't sweatthe timing chain. just dont drop any bolts into the oil pan. Put a rag there when you get to that point. Just line all the marks up on the cam gear and crank sprocket before you take them off the engine. Then just line up the marks on the new stuff and throw everything back together. keep th IP marks lined up too. Everything will go smoothly.

When I did my boost gauge I just reused my old gasket but put a little dap of silicone sealer called "The right Stuff" around the old gasket. Its good stuff and I swear by it. Its about $18 for 2 tubes but it comes with its own gun to apply it. Trust me, Its a great investment. You can actually use it instead of a gasket. Its never failed me and you can get it at napa or whatever. Also drill and tap dead center of the upper intake. Looks better.

Tranny temp sending units usually splice between the tranny cooler line that is returning from the cooler. Just grab a 3/8 or 5/16 compression fitting tee and install the sender on the top of it. Your gauge should come with one..I know the B&M One from summit does. Use teflon tape.

I dont pertain to know everything, but this is I would imagine doing it. Maybe some of the suggestions will actually come in handy.Hope this helps.

Sorry mods for getting off topic a hair.:)
when you get the pics, email them to me, ill host them and post them in this thread in about 2 mins, no matter how many you have/send........

zx-10r@comcast.net

Garage is no help, once you get one they tend to fill up with overflow from the house, I have a 2 car carage, and a 16x 24 shop, you would think I'd have a place to work on mine, but NOOOOOO we need a place for stuff we are storing. Rain I got plenty today 2"/hr last 6 hrs, 16" in last 24 all schools closed many roads impassible due to flood, several rivers will be out of their banks later tonight so even though rain is done, still got hi water & tides to deal with.
CAN YOU SAY "GARAGE SALE!" Sorry Turbine; had to.