IF I buy the diesel NOS kit from jegs, do I need to purchase a purge valve kit,
or will the NOS kit work fine without it.

it always helps to have a purge. it allows you to bring the cold n2o to the solenoid right before each run. it can make n2o more consistent and more effective out of the hole

Can you not purge through the motor? Bring the R's up and tap the noids a few times? Save you from having to buy and plumb a extra noid in there to purge with? Although then you couldnt get the cool man light up windshild washer squirters like I am going to run:phatyo:

Here's another opinion. I think unless your a pro or think it looks cool to purge, they are a waste of money. Try this, wire the solenoid so that you can "fire" it and have the jet not installed in the manifold. Fire it and try to time the interval before you see liquid N2O. I've tried it and can honestly say that the interval is so short that I cannot measure it. Now if your Pro and there's a lot of money to be made, then go for it.

If I were just out for cutting the fastest time I wouldnt worry about it.....but since I will be bracket racing i want to eliminate as many variables as possible and get my truck running as consistent as possible especially since i have a feeling the driver will be less than consistent:rolleyes: Maybe I've been hangin around the quick 32 guys or other nuts like that who seem to border on obsessive compulsive in thier racing and thier pre run regime.

Talk to superdiesel about his nitrous stuff. He should be able to set you up with what ever you feel you need. I havent gotten his "kit" had him send me stuff to do my own deal. I also got a WOT switch from Elowe, yet to be wired but it looks like a well done peice.

Ok...

Who purges and how? Through the motor or through a seperate noid or not purge, just hit the button and let her eat?

I have a full purge solenoid on mine. It takes very little to add it into the system. All it takes is a few quick bumps on the momentary switch and the system is purged. You don't have to blow out half the bottle like the ricer morons do at the track.

It also allows you to depressurize the system properly and safely after a run. Sure you can just crack the line open but I don't like doing things half-azzed. Just because we are not pro racers does not mean you can't install your system like a pro.

Do it right and put in a purge.

I agree with all you have said but is there a problem purging thorugh the motor? I'm not really seeing it as a big deal on a diesel???

Ok...

Who purges and how? Through the motor or through a seperate noid or not purge, just hit the button and let her eat?Philip,

I have a TS Powerfool 2 setup. It has a seperate purge solinoid. The system deactivates when the brakes are applied, so I purge as I am rolling up to the staging lights. You can see it in the following video right before the Nova doing his burnout goes past me.;) It's a 2 stage system. First stage(pre-intercooler) is activated by a WOT switch. Second Stage(post-intercooler) is activated by a hand held button.:grd:

http://www.northtexaspowerstrokes.com/users/dockboy/12.94pass.wmv

I agree with all you have said but is there a problem purging thorugh the motor? I'm not really seeing it as a big deal on a diesel???

Provided the RPM's are up it is no trouble. It's your engine, your system, and your choice....

It's your engine, your system, and your choice....
Coments like that start to get me worried. ;) Oh well, I suppose I could not be a cheap ass and put a seperate purge in mine. Gotta figure out were to purge to though.....either some light up windshield wiper squirters or a little mask in the cab.....little gas for my truck, a little gas for me :drinking: :crazy: :cookoo:

Funny thing is you guys think I'm BSing about the mask, even if I cant get ahold of medical grade a bit of sulfur never hurt anybody ):h

Are there any ruels in the NHRA, IHRA, or DHRA about purging into the drivers compartment?

BTW that is a serious question. I'm not actually going to suck off my purge, even if it were medical grade. I still think it would be kinda funny to set up your purge to a mask though

Ever seen a nitrous backfire? It is not pretty on a vehicle at idle and that's why I don't half-azz the purge.

Anything venting into the cab is a no-no, including the brats you consumed pre-race. :D

I ran a -3 braided line to a bulkhead fitting mounted under the passenger door through the frame. Works really well and no tubing to bend or futz with. Makes for a good attention getter on unsuspecting passengers about to get into the truck too. ):h

Anything venting into the cab is a no-no, including the brats you consumed pre-race. :D


:damnit1:

I assumed that since the want the blow off venting outside that the purging inside would be a big no no.

I'm still waiting to get my rule book. Need to see the exact wording on some stuff. Like venting of the blow down....need to know how they feel about my tool box.....

Straight out of the 05 NHRA rulebook

NITROUS OXIDE
Commercially available nitrous oxide permitted, including
supercharged and turbocharged engines. Nitrous bottle(s) in driver
compartment must be equipped with a relief valve and vented
outside of driver’s compartment. Bottle(s) must be stamped with a
DOT-1800 pound rating and permanently mounted (no hose
clamps or tie wraps). Hoses from bottle(s) to solenoid must be
high-pressure steel-braided or NHRA-accepted hoses.
Commercially available, thermostatically controlled, blanket-type
warmer accepted. Any other external heating of bottle prohibited.
See General Regulations 1:11.

1:11 NITROUS OXIDE
Nitrous oxide permitted in E.T. classes and A/PM only. The use of
any agents other than nitrous oxide as part of, or mixed with, this
pressurized fuel system is strictly prohibited. All bottles must be
securely mounted, stamped with minimum DOT-1800 pound rating,
and identified as nitrous oxide. Nitrous oxide bottle(s) located in
driver compartment must be equipped with a relief valve and vented
outside of compartment. System must be commercially available
and installed per manufacturer’s recommendations. Commercially
available, thermostatically controlled blanket-type warmer accepted.
Any other external heating of bottle(s) prohibited.

Hmmmmmm.....the way I read it if I mount it inside the compartment the relief must be mounted outside. Never say anything about purging inside :muahaha: :grd: I doubt any dumb Censored has contemplated doing something like this so they havent had to come up with a rule prohibiting it. I alwasy wanted to get a rule book or law wrote or altered just becasue of some dumb Censored thing I did.


On a serious note, I though that it was speced for just driver compartment but I couldnt remember 100% if they said anything about enclosed areas. Although I suppose that having a bottle puke and fill up my tool box could be a bad idea considering I have a bunch of electrical widgets in my tool box, I assume under the right conditions I *could* have one hell of a problem on my hands.

Hmmmm.......we got slightly OT here.

You also dont need to buy a purge "kit" You can just get as cheap of a noid as you can find and use that dude.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but one quick question probably dosen't warrant it's own. Remote bottle opener, what is the cheapest good one and where can it be had?

From what I have heard/info I have seen cheapest isnt best. If I were to get one I would get an NOS brand. The sell 2, I would get the new modle. The older model is a copy of of the NX opener, NX was the first co to come out with one. Edit: so either get an expensive one or the old version NOS and the NX are one in the same.

I am NOT putting one on though. I know me and the temptation would be to great. I figure at least if I have to get outa my truck and open the tool box it may keep me somewhat sane......

quit kidding yourself, you know you really want it.

I am NOT putting one on though. I know me and the temptation would be to great. I figure at least if I have to get outa my truck and open the tool box it may keep me somewhat sane......
The first time someone cathces you unprepared and takes you. You'll want one too.

For a single stage NOS set up is it better to inject, pre or post intercooler?

It takes a couple hundredths of a second to purge the gas out of the line. If that .02 seconds is important, then do it.

I have no dyno data to back up the following, only theory:

Inject the N2O after the intercooler. The intercooler is about 150-200 degrees prior to your run. You will use up some of the cooling effect of the N2O to reduce the temp of your intercooler instead of cooling the air with it. Let the intercooler do it's job first, then use the N2O as a "second" intercooler.

Many full blown race cars try to inject it right on top of each intake runner.

It takes a couple hundredths of a second to purge the gas out of the line. If that .02 seconds is important, then do it.
That depends on where your bottle is located and how long the feed line to the solinoids are!!:rolleyes: Mine will take at least a second, if not two, to purge the line especially right after a freash bottle is put in and turned on!

I have no dyno data to back up the following, only theory:

Inject the N2O after the intercooler. The intercooler is about 150-200 degrees prior to your run. You will use up some of the cooling effect of the N2O to reduce the temp of your intercooler instead of cooling the air with it. Let the intercooler do it's job first, then use the N2O as a "second" intercooler.

Many full blown race cars try to inject it right on top of each intake runner.
First off, the cooling effect of N2O on a dyno or 1/4 mi pass is negligable if any;) If you have, or are concerned with, EGT's in these two applications, adding N2O is not going to help any!!:eek: It does offer a slight cooling effect, but because of the added power level it produces, the egt's basically stay the same;)

I'm not familiar enough with the Dmax intake setup, but on the PSD, you want to have the nozzle further back in the intake track so it has a chance to fully mix with the intake charge. Placing it directly near the intake plenumn will only cause the middle cylinders being "stuffed" with more N2O than the corners!!:badidea:

It doesn't cool the engine, it cools the intake charge, making it more dense. You want the charge as dense as possible.

When I hit the NAWWSSSSS it comes on right now unless someone pulled my fuse. I can feel the effect right away, not 2 seconds later.

NOS cools off my EGT'S 200 degrees From 1400 to 1200

Ideally, you'd want to put the nitrous nozzle in just after the IC to maximize it's effectiveness in cooling the intake charge.

I run a seperate purge solenoid. It makes the crowd take notice when they see a big diesel truck purge rolling up to the line.

For the sleeper effect, could you purge into the exhaust?

Can someone explain the definition of purging as it applies to NOS?

From what I understand, the NOS boils in the line and turns to a gas (hot engine compartment and little or no line insulation). The goal is rather to keep it liquid all the way to the nozzle so that when you hit the NOS, the fluid converts to gas right in the intake plenum for maximum charge cooling.

Not sure I have that totally right, though....

When it is flowing, it only takes fractions of a milisecond to get to the nozzle from the bottle. I doesn't have time to boil unless it is just sitting in the line waiting to flow. If you are going for hundreths of a second or 1/2 mph more, a purge is good. This is just my experience though. I will be sporting one on my flag ship model that is going in my truck (twin 20lbers with bottle openers), it will be for show purposes though (the purge). Red anodized bottles of course with the SD Nitrous System logo. I will be a nice system for show and go. I can't wait to get it in.

I know why in a gasser its not a good idea to go through the motor but in a diesel whats the big deal? Not arguing or anything? Dont have to worry about leaning out a diesel, the only time there is any fuel is in the cylinders at a specific time......dont see a back fire possibly happening? Right? Just gota worry about killing the motor or knocking out the flame so to speak. Right????