6.5 diesel. A new problem started a week ago. I went out to start the truck and noticed that the wait to start light to not appear. The truck would turn over but would not start. Looked around and wiggled wire and still nothing and then about an hour later tried it and the wait t start light came on and the truck started fine. This has been happening almost every day now. Yesterday when I tried it the wait to start light came on and the truck started fine but stalled out after about 2 minutes and would not restart. when it would not restart the wait to start light did not come on.

Help!!!

Danny

6.5 diesel. A new problem started a week ago. I went out to start the truck and noticed that the wait to start light to not appear. The truck would turn over but would not start. Looked around and wiggled wire and still nothing and then about an hour later tried it and the wait t start light came on and the truck started fine. This has been happening almost every day now. Yesterday when I tried it the wait to start light came on and the truck started fine but stalled out after about 2 minutes and would not restart. when it would not restart the wait to start light did not come on.

Help!!!

Danny

I would replace the glow plug controller. Around $90 from GM Part# 12496472. I think that is what controls the wait to start. I just replaced mine a few days back.

before doing anything fill out the diagnostic checklist in the stickies. Just copy and past and fill out everything in detail.

X2 on the diagnostic checklist (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42248) Danny.
While you're under the hood take a close look at the glow controller and make sure that the wires are connected solidly and that it's base is well grounded. Also check the Red wire (well, Red on a '95) that feeds it. That wire should be hot all of the time - It's protected by a fusable link. The glows are divided into 2 banks, each of which is also protected by a fusable link - Check them too -- A resistance reading from either side to a glow plug on that side will show if they're OK. If you don't get an Ohm reading try another glow plug - Each is also protected by a fusable link.

BTW - If you find a fusable link is open - GET A NEW ONE. DON'T just replace it with some wire!

One more thing. Once the truck warms up this does not happen. Only when it is cold does the problem come up.

I am still chasing this problem. I have replaced the glow plug controller, replaced a couple of ground wires that looked not so good and the engine to frame ground that I found broken and the same thing is happening. Tonight the truck would not start and after I turned the key on and off about a dozen timed the wait to start light suddenly came on and the truck started. I also noticed that when the wait to start light appeared what sounded like a fuel pump also kicked on. Could there be something wrong with the ignition switch? All of the other dash lights always come on.

check to see that the ign switch is switching all 4 wires to 12 volts. Gound 1 lead of a meter use the other to check the white,pink,brown, and orange wires. my bet is that one of those has a bad set of points in the switch. When your truck is running they should test fine. so you will need to do this when the wait to start light dosnt light.

I am still chasing this problem. I have replaced the glow plug controller, replaced a couple of ground wires that looked not so good and the engine to frame ground that I found broken and the same thing is happening. Tonight the truck would not start and after I turned the key on and off about a dozen timed the wait to start light suddenly came on and the truck started. I also noticed that when the wait to start light appeared what sounded like a fuel pump also kicked on. Could there be something wrong with the ignition switch? All of the other dash lights always come on.


Danny Please fill out the diagnostic checklist(links in my signature).

Your problem does sound similar to what mine was, but you don't want my solution to it, I needed a new ECM as my factory one was the problem.

check and or replace the power junction isolater too if you have that. its where the battery power ties into the harness, i have seen that get corroded alot on gms and cause issues including causing pcm failures. it wont look corroded at all on the topwire and visible surfaces but will actually bust sometimes on disassembly from heat due to grounds mising or being corroded too...if its bad enough that it busts you will definatly see the wire eyes will need cleaning.

it acts just like a bad ignition switch when that happens...its a free check and good maintenance in any case...see it alot on these rusty michigan plow rigs...

check and or replace the power junction isolater too if you have that. its where the battery power ties into the harness, i have seen that get corroded alot on gms and cause issues including causing pcm failures. it wont look corroded at all on the topwire and visible surfaces but will actually bust sometimes on disassembly from heat due to grounds mising or being corroded too...if its bad enough that it busts you will definatly see the wire eyes will need cleaning.

it acts just like a bad ignition switch when that happens...its a free check and good maintenance in any case...see it alot on these rusty michigan plow rigs...
If there were ever someone that needed a pic of there ride here you might be at the top of that list.

you go blind its your fault...pretty hideous:eek:






























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i am working on a write up of the initial swappage. when i get a few more miles on it i will post up;)

And I thought my 500 caddy in a chevy van was a 1 of.

my buddy already has a 500 caddy so i went a lil more off the beaten path:D