ok so i had to put the 180 tstat back in since the supposed high flow wasnt going to work. After i got everything back together i never did get the truck to heat up, so im guessing the tstats stuck open since the raidator is warm.

So, since i didnt have the right 190 tstat when i put the cooling system all back together i still need to do that. What did i do to screw up the other tstat that its sticking open?? Can they be installed backwards?

I guess i almost need a picture as this seems to be very hard for me.

How can i screw up a t stat? and why does the high flow part number not work for me? My only resort is to put the $6 stat in, its the only delco one i could find that fits.

the spring side always points in towards the engine, and there should be a number for you in the parts sticky

and if a t-stat sits around for awhile i guess it might seize...but it would seize closed...

eh....ive already taken advice on part numbers and got some t stat that wont work at all....its way too small.

tigman claims hes has put three 131-103's in his vehicle and i claim that the 131-103 is the wrong one for a 6.2 crossover. I posted pics, was told i had the wrong one and it was mislabeled. No one has verified whats what yet. Im out a good $40 on t stats now. Still no answer

then later tigman said the 131-103 was for the hummer, then he states its still the right one. He's hard to understand, must be the french thing or whatever they talk in canada

The two thermostats are typical. The engine side is the one with the spring coils on the lower side in the pictures. There is also a cylinder inside the coils which actually pushes the thermostat valve open when it reaches the predetermined temperature.

Since manufactures rely on the end user to determine if the product works, here's a simple test. Fill a pan with enough water to cover your thermostat. Place it over heat and watch to see it open as the water gets close to boiling. If you have a thermometer, you can see what temperature it begins to open and when it begins to close. The valve should open and close smoothly with no jerking. The side where the valve opens goes to the radiator.

Some people prefer OEM thermostats. I generally use Stant brand.

I would think that the truck would overheat if the thermostat was installed backwards as the " pellet " would not be in the heated coolant . When you say not getting warm do you mean the engine coolant or the cab ? A locked fan clutch will cause the fan to run all the time not allowing the coolant to reach a normal operating temperature . If you truck has AC and the outside door for incoming air does not seal you will not get warm in the cab . Check vaccum and the temp controls for correct operation . Mine is also an 86 and the PO drilled some 3/4" holes on the right side to run the antenna cable over to the radio . Couldn't understand why I could only get luke warm in the cab until I pulled the fenders off .

No, i have cab heat, the temp just struggles to get over 140 or even move the gauge since it starts at 140.

I need 180-190* to switch over to WVO

I dont know why this thermostat that i stuck back in would do this, it worked fine before, but then again it wasnt this cold. It has to be open since the radiator is warm to hot.

I drove it around a bit and got it up past 140 only to say 145 or so then i went up to 160 just sitting idling but went back down to 140 as soon as i started driving.

does the cab heat feel any cooler than it was before? you may have a bad sender or gauge.....and by the way, in canada we speak english. the quebecers THINK they speak french, and be careful with racially or culturally inspired slurs on this PUBLIC forum thank you

...and by the way, in canada we speak english. the quebecers THINK they speak french, and be careful with racially or culturally inspired slurs on this PUBLIC forum thank you

Pour ton information cher ami je commencerais par me regarder dans le mirroir avant de donner un conseil :rolleyes: c'est ce genre de mauvaise publicitée qui envenime les chose et non les fait pcq les fait c'est vérifiable .

Un vieux sage dis autrefois "Si tu dois parler en mal de quelqu'un reste silencieux"

An old men once said "If you must speak
evil
of anyone still quiet"

Jodean , you can add a mecanical sensor to your engine to see how is your temperature exactly it cost around 12$ and for the fast test if you touch the upper hose that goes to your rad it should be hot only when the t-stat is open so if it stay hot all the time it is stock open . likejmay2174 say the water-in-the-pan-test is the only way to thes a t-stat . maybe there is a way with lazer temperature reader but i'm not that rich to own one .

ed

well i hope when i put the new stat it its cured, cause this stat never stuck before.

I have all mechanical gauges. Including a 2 month old water temp gauge since i broke the last one.

c'est la vie

your going to have your opinion tig man, i'm going to have mine, but in the end quebec would be screwed without canada.

as with LASER temperature readers(it's not lazer i don't how many people think it is, LASER is an acronym), Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. If your going to speak a language, and take shots by speaking a foreign language, know both languages inside and out.

anyways enough stirring the pot, if you have access to a laser temperature reader, set it to the Fahrenheit or Celsius reading(whichever you prefer), and then point and click what you want to read, the upper rad hose and lower rad hose should have a temperature differential until the thermostat opens, so a good time to test is before the truck has warmed up fully otherwise the thermostat may not close if your system has other issues(rust or crud may have jammed the thermostat open, more common on older vehicles)

also the LASER thermometers(which aren't actually LASER at all...they use a laser pointer strictly for aiming purposes, they actually use Infra-Red light emmited from an object above absolute zero to detect a heat signature)

just thought i'd clear that up

c'est la vie

your going to have your opinion tig man, i'm going to have mine, but in the end quebec would be screwed without canada.

as with LASER temperature readers(it's not lazer i don't how many people think it is, LASER is an acronym), Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. If your going to speak a language, and take shots by speaking a foreign language, know both languages inside and out.

anyways enough stirring the pot, if you have access to a laser temperature reader,

whats your point? you still belive in separatist ? it was 20 y ago and i'm not arguing you about that . did i ? you think that all quebecers are what , stupid . and you have an opinion over that . wow

you sound like an adolescent who has forgotten to grow old. or you are still an adolescent

your attitude is a lack of Respet and insole to the people that you deal with. I do not think it's a way to make friends. Since you seem to believe the stupidity from television or newspapers it is time meets the real world. I go to your province almost every month and people who think all the quebecers are separatists are a minority that I thought disappeared long time ago .

If you want to stirr my pot don't highjack that thread for it .

sorry Jodean when i see stupidity i cant resist . I'm here for the mecanical interrest not the linguistic (that i never have as you already noted ) or political ,racial or other shit .

oh oh, could see this coming. thanks for trying tigman, i always read through the broken english and see your trying hard to help , plus i read somewhere you screwed up your fingers, how they doing?

Thake too long for healing, i barely start to use my finger after 2 months and i don't think i be back to work for 2-3 month .
I have switch to a coordinator job until i can weld again . i'm still able to smell the weld smoke in my dept :D .

My finger will regain much of its function with time , i hope before summer . I have to finish my set-up for the fuel reduction and make pic of it . actually my test result are -30% in fuel consumtion but with my finger i cant use my hand at all not even WVO.

Jodean i think i take some pic for you (finnaly)if nothing unexpected happens.

Ed

i don't think all quebecers are sep, but when i see one who can't help but make a bad point against someone defending the same country YOU live in, then maybe you should re read my proper english,

as for making friends, i'm not here to make friends, i'm here to give advice based on my knowledge. if it's too much to ask that we keep country boundaries out of it, so be it,
jodean i know you weren't trying to go for that with your comment, i was trying to make a point however that what he speaks and what country he is from is a moot point as long as his information is correct, which it is

tigman, i'm not saying you are a seperatist, and by the way it ISNT a 20 year old issue, the last referendum was in 1995, 13 years ago. what i am saying is exactly what i said in my last post, quebecois french is a dialect of french that is different from the dialect spoken in france. much like canadian english is different from that of england's english.

i'm not fighting with you here, i was actually defending you if you took the time to read my post thoroughly. I'm done with this post, and i hope that you get well soon, get back to welding. and jodean i hope you solve your problem

sorry if i stirred up unneccesary emotions, it was not my intent

tigman, there's a spell checker you can use in your posts. top right corner, abc with checkmark, adds a spellchecker , it may make some of the words easier for all of us, lol.

thank you for trying to help us

Lets all agree that we all have our own opinions, keep it civil. Part of the beauty of this forum is that there are several different opinions, which I believe, results in a more comprehensive technical solution. I disagree with some opinions here just like everyone else, but I RESPECT that others have their own opinions and keep my interactions civil, as do MOST of the members here. Everyone has their own reasoning for being here, as it should be, but it must remain civil and please keep it on topic of thread.

Hi , back to the topic after a long detour .

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3000178 post
# 46 for references

Let's start from the left
first= 10$ t-stat noname
second= 14077122
third = 12559336 (my131-103)
fourth= 050145568aa (Cummins-Dodge)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/Silverado/IMG_1344.jpg

characters on the stat which point out direction to install it and the part number
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/Silverado/number-and-direction.jpg

the Dodge Cummins in the GM placement .i didn't get a ford yet for testing . It fit well as an OEM . the 10$ t-stat also fit well but dont do the job .

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/Silverado/gasketridge2.jpg

Notice the 2 red arrow they indicate the fitement of the ridge of the t-stat . they keep the t-stat secure in its place .

the top cover ridge the compress the gasket for those ridge .

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/Silverado/top-cover-ridge.jpg

and on the other side the tstat itself . he have compression ridges also .

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/Silverado/tstatridge.jpg

i hope i answer all the questions from those 2 topic about t-stat .

A photograph is worth one thousand words

Ed

Jodean, do you know for sure you have matching parts ? Meaning the crossover, thermostat housing, thermostat all are from/for the same year as radiator & chassis ???? 82 to 91 Blazer ? I suggest you install the 195 degree OEM thermostat to get normal operating temperature.

It is a 6.2 crossover, i have now have a OEM 190 14077122. It had a china 190 (looks like the high flow posted) in it but its acting the same way as the OEM i just put in. Cant say for radiator, but it has to be the 80's style to fit i believe.

maybe the heater core hoses are plumbed wrong?? How does that work....it comes out of the water pump to the heater core then back to the radiator is what i think i have. Wouldnt it have to go back to the water pump??

Water pump to heater flow is outbound from pump.Heater discharges to the radiator per OEM. Should have no effect of operating water temp. The out flow is safe to plug for testing. Are you operating as a rock crawler,slow ground speed but engine RPMS up or all on road ? Is the water pump correct/stock for the chassis year ? Asking ? to re-learn the older trucks. It's been years since I engaged the brain on early. Usually fighting heat on the first 6.2's.