I'm planning on Line-X'ing my new '08 dually bed and hadn't really thought of going over the bed upper edges because it comes from the factory with the plastic edge protectors. My adult son is telling me I should remove those plastic pieces and the tailgate edge protector and Line-X up over that edge. How many of you guys have done this? Anyone have any clear pictures?

I would lose the factory stake pocket covers by doing this which is not a big thing...I guess. I just never thought it was necessary. The plastic looks factoryfi-nished. I don't want the Line-X to look DIY, amateurish. Yes, I plan on having the clear UV protectant sprayed on as well; it looks so much cleaner that way. Advice/photographs really appreciated.

I don't have any pics and my 06 didn't have plastic factory rail caps (except on tailgate) but all my trucks have been over the rail line-xed. I like the added grip when standing on the rail and it really keeps the wear and tear down when loading things from the side.

IT WILL LOOK CLEAN EITHER WAY. HOW WILL YOU USE THE BED?

I went over the rail because I planned on a camper. Ended up with a Leer 700 hard tonneau instead - doesn't show under the closed cover anyway - still looks good and protects.

On the GMC the GM tailgate protector goes back on over the Line-X.

http://marketplaceadvisor.channeladvisor.com/hi/14/14002/20_beast_wheels.jpg


;)

I would do it. It would keep that plastic from rubbing the paint off over time and potentially rusting..

:)I have mine over the top of the bedrails.Works for me.:)

I had mine done right after getting the truck. I think it looks good and will protect the rails no matter what.

ditto... over the rails for me... the only thing is the tailgate cap can't come off and stay off unless you get someone to close off the holes that are underneath the plastic. As long as your line-x shop is good then it wont look like a "DIY" job. They used a wire or something on mine and pulled it off and there's a nice clean edge...

since we are talking about line-X, i heard you cant line-x aluminum. i wanted to line-x my toolbox. is this true??

Thanks guys. I will be carrying a BIG ass Lance camper on it in the summer months predominantly and otherwise will use the truck for ordinary household stuff. It is not a work truck.

My concern was the little step in the sheet metal at the top of the bed. I thought it would look weird without the plastic cap but looking at FilthyBeast's truck (above) it looks like that area is filled in by coating and it looks good. I have also been told to have them coat the edge of the bed below the tailgate and the tailgate lower edge. That takes more work because they have to remove the tailgate to do it. The guy that told me about it said it is referred to as the "pool guy" option. I guess because pool guys carry caustic chemicals that drip on those edges if they're exposed. Anyone done that? It sound like a good idea to me....they also need to mask the drain holes on the tailgate of course.

Last question (yeah, sure!) Can anyone who has had the clear UV coating done tell me if it stays looking good long term? I've seen uncoated Rhino and Line-X and it lasts fine, it just looks dull and sort of grayish after awhile. What is Line-X's policy on repairs if you get a full on scratch THROUGH the lining?

i was under the impression you can line x about anything you want, at leas thats what my local installer told me...waiting on the cash so i can get mine done..overtime next i hope...i need lots of parts

I don't recall specifically Line-X's repair policy on deep scratches as I have never had to use it on the 5 trucks I have had done.

One time I did get a deep gouge when dragging an engine on a partially built engine stand out of my truck. I left the truck out in the sun and the gouge healed itself back together. It was very hard to tell where the gouge had been.

Otherwise, I don't think I've ever really gouged it at all. At least, never that I have noticed when dragging things in and out of the bed.

Good to know. Its not like I intend to ever really drag anything too raw on it, just wondering.

I did once take a refridgerator out of a truck I had (no Line-X) and the roller on the fridge deeply scratch the crap outta the truck bed, through the paint right down to raw metal. I guess Line-X is toughter than I know, huh?

I don't recommend removing the plastic rail caps. There are many holes along the rail. In addition, you many not like the shape of the uncovered rail even with LINE-X on it.

If you're getting a black bedliner, the LINE-X Xtra will be black, not clear. The bedliner (with black Xtra) will also be a little darker black than standard LINE-X. The bedliner will hold its color and gloss for years to come.

LINE-X can be applied to aluminum, no problem. However, due to an unusual attribute of aluminum (called cathodic migration), any water exposed edge of the LINE-X/aluminum should be sealed with silicone caulk.

LINE-X is very durable, but expect normal wear like anything else. Click this link to read the limited lifetime warranty (valid nationwide): http://www.line-x.com/files/NatWarranty.pdf

LINE-X on an aluminum toolbox:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/123Gone/toolbox1.jpg

This is black LINE-X Xtra that's AT LEAST two years old. It's a little dirty, but other than that, it's black and sparkles in the sun like the day it was applied.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/123Gone/Xtra2006A.jpg

I let the stealership do there "same as Line-X" coating...... It is NOT the same - You can't beat Line-X.


Some also coat under the doors. Hell some coat the full bottom 10-12" of the body. Had to do again I would have Line-X do the rear wheel wells too - on my fire red truck think it looks cheap with the rear wheels wheels red. I ended up undercoating in there black. There are plastic liners for the rear wheel wells, a GM option IIRC.

;)

I had mine Line-Xed over the rails. I got thrown by the question when scheduling it, but am glad I did. I spend a whole lot more time with my feet on it and banging it when putting stuff in the bed than I thought I would.

Now, what I find somewhat amusing is that LineX can be a bit slippery when you need stuff to stay where you put it, but it can tear the heck out of your skin without much effort.

Regarding gouges, LineX will gouge, but the shop is more than happy to repair if you need them to.

Tell ya what - the rubber bed mat I also have works wonders. Tie down furniture and it stays put without front to rear or side to side sliding. But then try to slide something into or out of the bed on the mat can be a chore.

Aluminum needs a three step process for great adhesion. If done right you can get a permanent bond...
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z176/Line-X_photos/xtramissing002.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z176/Line-X_photos/xtramissing007-1.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z176/Line-X_photos/IMG_4624.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z176/Line-X_photos/newhouse08015.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z176/Line-X_photos/boatssept030.jpg

I had to replace one of my Dually's plastic bed rail protectors that I damaged. The plastic protector is actually a moulding which transitions between the fiberglass fender and steel bed rail....at least on my 07 Classic. When the moulding is removed it's not flat like it is on non-dually's but recessed which would make it difficult to Line X. Not sure about the "new style" Duallys 07.5 and up since they have steel fenders.......you may be able to Line X them.

I dropped off my '08 to be Line-X'd this afternoon. The Line-X people told me on the new body duallys they can't pull off the plastic bed caps because there is a lifted seam and extra holes along the top of the bed rails as well as big square holes under the edge of the tailgate, so they have to apply the coating up to the edge of the plastic. I was assured there would be no gap between the plastic and the coating.

I opted for the "pool guy" option, meaning the Line-X will cover the bottom edge of the tailgate and the corresponding edge at the rear of the bed. I went up and over the front edge of the bed up against the back of the cab. I will load good pictures here tomorrow. Got a good deal I think. A bit over $600 for the coating as well as the clear UV coating that keeps it looking shiny and new permanently...so I'm told.

Buy a car and you are done. Buy a truck and the spending has only begun!

:driver:

[quote=JIMMMY;3012005]Buy a car and you are done. Buy a truck and the spending has only begun!


:exactly::agreed:

Buy a car and you are done. Buy a truck and the spending has only begun!

:driver:

Man, have you got that right!

I've installed Torklift frame-mounted camper tie downs and bought their polished stainless Fastguns to use on them. I've installed Airlift airbags and now Line-X.

Still to come are side steps (best bang-for-the-buck chrome or polished stainless ones? Anyone? Who to buy from? eBay Chinese bars?;)), Bilstein shocks, an on board compressor and tank for the bags but also to install my departed dad's old-school, long ass air horns under the truck...someplace!

I was joking with my son that with CC Sabathia's new $161,000,000 contract he could buy my truck and all the money I've spent on it in one inning's worth of work. My son did the math and said he could buy my truck by getting only the lead off batter out.:eek: DOH!

Mine are Willmore stainless steel tube steps......... Most def go stainless..........

Got my Willmore's for FREE. Stealership rolled my truck around for delivery and it thru a 4x4 code (they ended up replacing it's brain, 1 of 20 some computers in our rigs). So to make up for the couple day delay and inconvenience (dealer 350 miles away from home)..... I asked for tube steps at cost. Went to pick her up and they said the steps are FREE. Good ol' Dave Smith Motors, Kellogg Idaho.

;)

Yeah, pretty much had already decided on polished stainless; but I had never heard of Wilmore! There are SO MANY brands out there and the prices are all over the place. Found them as cheap as $160 a set on Fleabay and up to $689 from the stealership. Looks like most are around $350-$450. Smittybilt, Nasta, etc, etc. I don't know which brand to pick other than on recommendations of your guys on the website. I should probably post a separate thread.

Nasta is the ONLY brand that offer ALL stainless steel, including the mounting brackets, screws, nuts, etc.

Excellent point. I will do a search and see how much more; if any at all, they cost than most of the others.

I went under the rail only because I was putting my SnugTop on it and wanted a good seal to the bed. If I didn't have a shell I would go over the rail.

I let the stealership do there "same as Line-X" coating...... It is NOT the same - You can't beat Line-X.My Duramax has the "same as Line-X" dealership coating, and it's horrible. When summertime rolls around again I'll be figuring out some way to rip that old crap out, to be replaced by a quality coating like Line-X. I'm also thinking of getting the lower 10" of body done at the same time as well. :D

Tom

I just had mine done on monday and I went under the rail. My truck is a year old and the bed looked like hell, most of the paint was already scratched up. I have a cover on there most of the time so I went under the rail and dod not get the line-x xtra. You can have that added later for about $300, or its $170 when you get it sprayed originally.

Yeah, thanks guys. I DID put the Xtra on there and I'm glad I did, its looks great.
The over-the-bed-rails approach is no longer an option for the dually crowd due to a seam atop the rail that shows through the Line-X and the presence of extra holes. Mine still looks great though. I am happy with it. I'll post some pictures as soon as I can.

A few years from now, you will be so glad you opted for Xtra. Your bedliner will still look brand spanking new :thumb:

I went under the rail only because I was putting my SnugTop on it and wanted a good seal to the bed. If I didn't have a shell I would go over the rail.
Went Line-X over the rail on my 03 Ranger when I bought it new. Put on a canopy, and had no problems with leakage. I was living in Northern Washington at the time, and had a lot of rain but no water in the bed.

Went Line-X over the rail on my 03 Ranger when I bought it new. Put on a canopy, and had no problems with leakage. I was living in Northern Washington at the time, and had a lot of rain but no water in the bed.


X2 Except Western Washington - Exactly - plus the Line-X protects the bed from the canopy.

:cool:

Well North Western, up on Whibey Island. Also no issues with power washing either at a manual wash, or automatic wash carwash.

Theres no problem retaining the use of bed rails and a soft truxedo tonneau after line-x is there? In terms of the added thickness not letting things fit properly? I'll be waiting for warm weather to return before I get mine done.

Dunno but my Leer 700 hard tonneu over it was no problemo.

Oh and I forgot, I have the cargo management system as well.

On a 2005 dually bed can you go over the bed rails or are they like the newer beds?

Yeah, thanks guys. I DID put the Xtra on there and I'm glad I did, its looks great.

I'll post some pictures as soon as I can.

Famous last words. C'mon, Dan, post up some photos of that dually of yours with that shiney Line-X Xtra! :D Thinking of doing the same to my dually! :D