http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/rant.gif Damn GM for designing dual battery system so if one battery shorts the other is toast too. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/censored.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/censored.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/censored.gif

So, has anyone switched to one BIG forking battery or 2 and a real isolater system?

To use one battery in place of two, it'd have to be one powerful battery. The two in my truck equal about 1850 CCA together. Not sure where to mount it either. Anything is possible if you want to do it enough.

You are right, GM engineers are no wonderkids.
I think it is easier to get a strong gear reduction starter (~$250-300) and just use one battery from then on.
All you need is to start that thing, no juice requred after that. --
Thats what I have been thinking, or maybe it is that 1970 Camaro sitting in the garage and needing a battery talking to me.

Thats why I bought Walmart batteries.
If one goes bad, just take them both in and get them replaced.
A few months ago, I burned up my starter when my fuel gelled and thought it was the batteries at first so I took them in and they replaced them with no hassle.

You should already have a gear reduction starter, Most 6.2's came with the old style direct drive starters and GM switched to gear reduction about the time the 6.5 was brought out. I put gear reductions on my 6.2 also and they don't have half the problems as the direct drives did.

Yup that's what I got, 2 walmart batteries. Everstart ultra. I didn't get 78's I got 1N's since they are same size but much more ccas.

Actually that battery setup is how my 4Runner's dual batts are setup, however I used bigger wire (1/0ga), more of it(3 runs), and actually grounded things properly (3 1/0ga grounds per batt to frame chassis and block) UNLIKE the retards at GM using a singe 6ga and loomed ground....

I HAVE welding cable. It's right out in the garage. Something like 50 feet of it. I got it for free when we leased a building that had a UPS battery room full of the old 2 volt glass cells. The building manager got rid of the batteries and said I could have all the cable. The other reason I got the 1N batteries (other than the higher CCA) was they were dual terminal. I am just itchin to change to top post and the bigger cable. I have already grounded the truck silly as I had to do that for RF grounding.

Yota, I have 1200 watts too! But mine goes out a ham radio antenna http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/rockon.gif

Yeap The battery cables could use some upgrading, I been upgrading mine for the last 12 year or so with every truck I get.

Yup that's what I got, 2 walmart batteries. Everstart ultra. I didn't get 78's I got 1N's since they are same size but much more ccas.
I have the same, two 1Ns, they are 870CCA each. Started no problem every time with 0 degree days without being plugged in. Pretty good for $58 each.

I used 1/0 welding cables and got the crimp on terminals from NAPA. They work perfectly. I elected to go with top post connecters as opposed to side post. Felt there was more surface to transfer current. When changing out batteries it should be done as a pair and same type (amps). I opted for Optima Red tops (some have gone to the deep cycle batteries). Buy good batteries that have a warranty - I've gone through 4 sets in 6 years. I heard that batteries should be rotated from the drivers side to passenger side every other month - don't have clue why (never done it). Always clean ground wires as part of routine maintainance. Other than that, I have changed out 6.2, 24 volt system to to 12 volts (military CUCV's) because of the price of a 24 volt starter. I don't know if it can be done with my Burb though.

gmenor - Your burb has a 24v system?

GM is not fault for making a system with two batteries. You need almost 2000 CCA to start a high compression engine. The two batteries are ran in parallel which keeps your 12v and adds your current. Although upgrading your wires would be a good project. Since the batteries are wired in parallel, if one goes, they both go. You could put some inline fuses on each battery, but for a 1000amp fuse your looking at around $300.

jmkglloyd,
Misconception on what I wrote. I have help change out a military CUCV to a single 12 volt system battery. I don't think I will attempt it with the Burb. I have fried batteries from Autozone to the point that the last time (8 batteries later) I was so pissed off I dropped the batteries off and walked out. $300.00 for a 1000 amp fuses?

Yup, around $300.00 at Grainger. You might be able to find'em cheaper somewhere else.

I've gone through 4 sets in 6 years. I heard that batteries should be rotated from the drivers side to passenger side every other month - don't have clue why (never done it). .

A good friend of mine who is a Aircraft Mechanic says that in a dual battery system one battery will always have more resistance than the other and carry more of the load. Durring the annual inspection he rotates positions to increase life on the pair. Since he told me that I rotate them once a year, I don't think every other month is needed but once or twice a year is a help.