When I drive 25 mph or less and push the brake peddle it will shutter and go to the floor. Once I release the brakes, it stops and the ABS light turns on.


Any advice?

Find out what codes you have and we can go from there.

does the abs light have to be on to be able to reed the code? it is hit and mis when the abs light turns on.

Moved to Drivetrain section.

Have a look around for early abs activation, its very common. I suspect that is that is what is wrong with yours. We see this concern about 2-3 times a week at the dealer. Its a rust issue between the sensor and the hub that it bolts to. They very rarely set a dtc. we use the scan tool to record the event and then graph it on the computer to see what side is dropping out.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267716&highlight=brake+pedal

My be a bad hub

My be a bad hub
I noticed some noise yesterday coming from the driver side hub so I lifted the truck up and sure enough the hub is bad. That makes sense now cause I remember seeing somewhere that the abs module is built into the hub. and I know that it is the driver side that is failing cause the truck will pull to the right. is the dealer the only place to get a new one???

Pedal to the floor, ABS or not, is bad. In your case, the air is in the ABS valving and it requires "special" bleeding. Read post #2 in my link above.

As for the bearing hub assy, read this one. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280540

I noticed some noise yesterday coming from the driver side hub so I lifted the truck up and sure enough the hub is bad. That makes sense now cause I remember seeing somewhere that the abs module is built into the hub. and I know that it is the driver side that is failing cause the truck will pull to the right. is the dealer the only place to get a new one???
No,try any auto parts,it's not a bad job,put the hub on and see if the brakes are ok,I got the hubs for 223.00 2500 hd 4wd

Let us know if the brakes are ok after the hub is replaced

Also, Something To Add- Buy The Timken Hub Bearings, They Are Lifetime Warranty. You Will Need It.

Also, Something To Add- Buy The Timken Hub Bearings, They Are Lifetime Warranty. You Will Need It.
good to know! I am trying to find the wheel bearing wright now. do you know if it is the bearing for a 4 wheel drive will fit a 2 wheel drive I called gm and they said that their bearing will fit both 2 and 4 wheel drive but they cant speak for after market brands?

I just ordered a new hub from timkim 246 with tax. should be here in a few days I will keep you all posted. thanks for all your info

They Are Lifetime Warranty. You Will Need It.
I respectfully disagree...The number one cause of sealed front bearing failure is frozen rear brake harware and/ or pads. Hence, the fronts run TOO HOT from doing all the work. The number two cause is the front brakes not releasing causing excess heat up front. With properly working brakes (pads and calipers not binding), front wheel bearing typically last us 140k miles or so. Some went over 200k.

I think what I'm saying here is,
If you have failed a wheel bearing before 150k miles, check your braking system hardware. Every rotor should be rust-free in the swept area, and the inner and outer pad, at any one caliper, should always be the same thickness.

When checking the brakes with caliper piston retracted with a C-Clamp, not only should the caliper slide, but the pads should also slide freely. Another sign they are frozen or sticking is more wear on the inner pad. And if your gonna do a hub, might as well inspect all four corners, and at least clearance the components correctly.

1. Remove a wheel, compress the pad and caliper assy completely with a C-Clamp. Loosen the fill cap and watch not to spray fluid under the hood if the master cylinder is overfull.

2. Attempt to slide the caliper in and out. It should slide freely. If not, the slide bolts are corroded and the bolts and rubber boots will need replaced. Never use Anti-sieze on these bolts and boots. Only use synthetic brake grease.

3. Attempt to slide the pads on the stainless clips. The should slide with little or no effort but not so loose to rattle. If they don't slide (they probably won't), remove the ear, place it in a vise, remove pads and clips, remove corrosion under the flat part of the clips (test fitting often to prevent removal of too much material). When finished correctly, a pad can be tilted into place and then slide easily across the ear. On a rare occasion, I'll have to remove a little material from the pad backing plate. After cleaning and fitting, I paint (seal from corrosion) all the areas under the clips and the pad ends with Rustoleum RUST REFORMER to prevent recurrence. Make sure to torque the ear bolts back to the truck at 140lb/ft after using Loctite.

On all 3 of my trucks the drivers side at 140,000 to 160,000 miles.The p. side is stell going at 328,000 miles on the work truck ?The work truck hub at 160,000 and the oem brakes 268,000

Also, Something To Add- Buy The Timken Hub Bearings, They Are Lifetime Warranty. You Will Need It.
Yes you had big ass tires on your truck,the hubs dont like big tires :D with offset rims

Did the hub fix the brake ?

good to know! I am trying to find the wheel bearing wright now. do you know if it is the bearing for a 4 wheel drive will fit a 2 wheel drive I called gm and they said that their bearing will fit both 2 and 4 wheel drive but they cant speak for after market brands?
WHY I SAID YOU WILL NEED THE LIFETIME WARRANTY, IS THE NEW BEARINGS ARE $HIT MADE, AND WHY SHOULD YOU KEEP SPENDING 2-3 HUNDRED BUCKS FOR A NEW ONE EACH TIME THEY FAIL?

I respectfully disagree...The number one cause of sealed front bearing failure is frozen rear brake harware and/ or pads. Hence, the fronts run TOO HOT from doing all the work. The number two cause is the front brakes not releasing causing excess heat up front. With properly working brakes (pads and calipers not binding), front wheel bearing typically last us 140k miles or so. Some went over 200k.

I think what I'm saying here is,
If you have failed a wheel bearing before 150k miles, check your braking system hardware. Every rotor should be rust-free in the swept area, and the inner and outer pad, at any one caliper, should always be the same thickness.

When checking the brakes with caliper piston retracted with a C-Clamp, not only should the caliper slide, but the pads should also slide freely. Another sign they are frozen or sticking is more wear on the inner pad. And if your gonna do a hub, might as well inspect all four corners, and at least clearance the components correctly.

1. Remove a wheel, compress the pad and caliper assy completely with a C-Clamp. Loosen the fill cap and watch not to spray fluid under the hood if the master cylinder is overfull.

2. Attempt to slide the caliper in and out. It should slide freely. If not, the slide bolts are corroded and the bolts and rubber boots will need replaced. Never use Anti-sieze on these bolts and boots. Only use synthetic brake grease.

3. Attempt to slide the pads on the stainless clips. The should slide with little or no effort but not so loose to rattle. If they don't slide (they probably won't), remove the ear, place it in a vise, remove pads and clips, remove corrosion under the flat part of the clips (test fitting often to prevent removal of too much material). When finished correctly, a pad can be tilted into place and then slide easily across the ear. On a rare occasion, I'll have to remove a little material from the pad backing plate. After cleaning and fitting, I paint (seal from corrosion) all the areas under the clips and the pad ends with Rustoleum RUST REFORMER to prevent recurrence. Make sure to torque the ear bolts back to the truck at 140lb/ft after using Loctite.REALLY? ARE YOU A GM TECH? JUST CURIOUS.

REALLY? ARE YOU A GM TECH? JUST CURIOUS.
Nope, just a tightwad with a fleet of these trucks.

I got hub on yesterday and it did fix the brake problem. I hope I got the wright one I called gm and the bearing is the same for a 4 wd and a 2 wd but they cant speak for aftermarket brand. I hope it is the same for aftermarket cause the hub I got had a hole for the axle so I had to plug them up.

I got hub on yesterday and it did fix the brake problem. I hope I got the wright one I called gm and the bearing is the same for a 4 wd and a 2 wd but they cant speak for aftermarket brand. I hope it is the same for aftermarket cause the hub I got had a hole for the axle so I had to plug them up.Boy I think it need to be checked

when I called to get the aftermarket one I gave them my vin # and once I got the hub and saw the hole for the axle I called them back to double check and they said it was the wright one so I guess I need to call timken