Hey all.

Just put the "oh s&%t its getting cold" oil in the truck. Shell Rotella 0W40 synthetic.

How much milage do you put on it before changing?

I am planning on 12,000kms.

Normally when running 15W40 mineral oil, I do every 7,000 kms.

Will tow once. Short trip. Potential for longer idling periods is most likely.

I am running Amsoil Synthetic and currently have 11,000 miles on it. I am going to do one more oil analysis and see what it says. If it is still good I will run it for another 5,000 miles.

I go 20,000 on Amsoil 15-40. Oil anylysis says its still good but I change it anyway.

I go 20,000 on Amsoil 15-40. Oil anylysis says its still good but I change it anyway.

Hmmm makes me wonder if I should run my oil to 20,000 miles.

Holy cow! I start feeling guilty at 10,000 KM's when I change mine. 0-40 Syn. year round on mine. Maybe I can go longer. Hmmm.

I will never change mine......unless oil doesn't pass muster, I change filters every 13k and top off with fresh amsoil, if the big rigs can do it, so can I

I have still got a 1,100 mile trip back to Drum from FLW then I am going to do another oil analysis and change the filter.

At 120 bucks a pop each oil change (including UOA) I probly should let it go until it says it needs changed. But it makes me nervous. I am used to changing oil every 3000 miles in my car and every 2 weeks in the race car, so 20,000 seems outragous to me. But I trust the UOA so hopefully its good to go.:D

before i became a member here i was changing mobil 1 delvac syn ever 7k, but after read a bunch of information on the site i think ill extend my change interval to 10k minimum and start sending an oil analysis. i am now running rotella syn

Moved to Maintenance and Fluids section! ;)

Moved to Maintenance and Fluids section! ;)

Party pooper.

Thanx and sorry.

Up here I haven't found a place that does oil analyses. Its possible that I won't even hit the 12,000 kms before I change back to 15W40.

Thanx for the replies.

If you have an opinion to add, please do so.

I generally follow the DIC. In Yellowknife I ran 0W40 year round, but because of the extreme cold being hard on the motor when starting I didn't try to stretch the change interval. If you are idling a lot in the cold use a winter front and do the high idle mod to keep the temp up. The synthetic might not have needed the change but I figured it was cheap insurance considering what I was asking of the motor.

Party pooper.

Thanx and sorry.

Up here I haven't found a place that does oil analyses. Its possible that I won't even hit the 12,000 kms before I change back to 15W40.

Thanx for the replies.

If you have an opinion to add, please do so.

I live in canada also and my local caterpiller dealer does engine oil analysis, yours should too. they do it for like 30 bucks

Aha.

Caterpiller dealer. We have one.

Thanx Phazar.

Recent UOAs have shown the Dmax can typically sustain 10k miles (16k km) on conventional oil and fitlers, and return excellent results. You can search for some of the results here, or over at www.bobistheoilguy.com for more info.

If you're running synthetic, extended drains are very possible, and recommended to get your money's worth from the lubricant.

If you're in the extreme weather regions of Canada, then I'd say the selection of synthetic 0w-40 is very appropriate. Most of us here in the States don't need synthetic for temps; but many use it anyway as peace of mind.

There are only two ways to know if it's time to change oil. The GM recommendation is to use the OLM. Unfortunately, that often leads to unused capacity when synthetics are in use. The other, and more reliable, system is to use UOAs.

Thanx Dnewton.

Ofcourse like most, I tow in the summer. Winter should see next to asolutely none.

16,000 kms for mineral oil..........................:think:

Would that be under severe service criteria?

There are some very favorable UOAs posted here at DP that show Mobil Delvac (to name one) being evaluated at 9k miles by Blackstone, and being suggested out to 11k miles!

Heavy towing really effects the evaporation/consumption of engine oil. So, if you're towing heavy, you need to check the oil level more often. On the plus side, if you burn a bit more of it, and then subsequently top off, you are bolstering the additive package each time you top off with fresh oil. There are many trucks that pull heavy loads but still turn in good UOAs. They just consume more oil while doing it.

My Dmax is pretty typical of most. I burn little to no oil when running empty, but when I tow my travel trailer (especially at 70mph) I burn about 1 quart of oil per 110 gallons of fuel. That is nearly right in line with the official GM statement of acceptable oil consumption, which is one quart / 100 gallons fuel. But just because you're burning up a bit of oil (actually, most is evaporating, not "burning"), that doesn't mean you're automatically doing harm to the engine. As long as you replenish with fresh oil, you're actually going in a positive direction.

UOA's are the best way to know how well your lubricants are fairing. In lieu of that, than the OLM is a reasonably decent guide. The old days of "3 months or 3k miles" is pure bunk.

Has anyone had an oil analysis done oil that's been in an engine for 2 years? I change oil every year but this year I only drove the truck about 3,000 miles with 0-40w Syn Rotella. Some say it needs to be changed every year regardless of mileage?? What do you say?

I run Shell Rotella T Syn and follow the OLM which usually comes out to about 10,000 miles, at least for the past two oil changes as I've only put on 23,000 miles since I bought the duramax.

My manual says you can use what type oil you want, but that does not alter the change times...still supposed to change the oil when the DIC or mileage say it's time.

In my 08 Suburban 5.3 I ran royal purple and changed it at about 10k intervals. Now on my duramax I switched to Mobil 1 because of CJ-4 on the LMM and suspect I will keep it at 10k as well. I figure I would rather have peace of mind. 10k miles for me is every 2-3 months.

I use Amsoil and will run 10K or change it once per year whichever comes first.

I run valvoline 5W40 premium blue full synthetic and change it at 5k. Prolly way too soon.
O well my bearings should enjoy it.

I run valvoline 5W40 premium blue full synthetic and change it at 5k. Prolly way too soon.
O well my bearings should enjoy it.



I change mine around 5K also. A lot of guys here will argue that is way to soon. At worst it doesn't hurt the engine!

My manual says you can use what type oil you want, but that does not alter the change times...still supposed to change the oil when the DIC or mileage say it's time.
Im not buying that. Just another way that GM is trying to get ur money. Sure, u need to take it to a certified GM mechanic and pay 150 bucks every 10,000 miles:rolleyes: And we all know how accurate that DIC is:rolleyes:

Just changed mine @ 13k sent in a sample and came back clean as heck. I think I will go to 20k next time with UOA at 10k.

On the 99 Do_g_ I have been changing the 5W/40 @ 2 or 3 times for the oil filter at 10,000 km's then change the oil. The most important thing for extended idle or idle time is to keep the engine temp above 150*F, I like 170*F. Then you don't get fuel wash. Iam able to hang baler belting in the front to reduce air flow throught the rad.

I run Amsoil 15w-40 AME heavy duity diesel & marine with by-pass filters. I send oil samples out aprox. every six months and the results are: "oil is suitable for continued use resample next regular schedule":D.

I run Amsoil 15w-40 AME heavy duity diesel & marine with by-pass filters. I send oil samples out aprox. every six months and the results are: "oil is suitable for continued use resample next regular schedule":D.


So you have 39,500 miles on your oil? That's pretty amazing!

Thanx guys.

Some inspiring results.

Im not buying that. Just another way that GM is trying to get ur money. Sure, u need to take it to a certified GM mechanic and pay 150 bucks every 10,000 miles:rolleyes: And we all know how accurate that DIC is:rolleyes:

I still suspect that DIC has a better idea of when to change it effectively than I do. I love having it, because I would just be changing at 5,000 miles.

It's always funny watching the replies on the lube section anyhow. I figure that there are several schools of thought:

1. Change it every X,XXX miles, because I believe you should change it every X,XXX miles, and I have done that for 20+ years.

2. I run synthetic oil, therefore, I can automatically double/triple/quadruple the oil change intervals. Variant: Never change the oil.

2a. I run [insert name here] synthetic oil with filters developed for the space program, therefore, I only need to change the oil once every 100,000 miles or 20 years, whichever comes first. Filters cost $650+tax.

2b. I run only mineral oil, because everyone knows that synthetic is not really synthetic/better/real.

3. I use some mail-order oil at $95.00 a quart, but I run 0W-90;) oil year round, but change the filter every week. GM simply has no clue with that 5W40, 15W40 recommendation.

4. I use the DIC, but add/subtract XX percent to change.

5. I use the DIC and change within 10 miles of it saying to change it. Sometimes, I pull over along the side of the road to change it...

6. I do UOA monthly at $14.00 a pop so that I can save changing out 10qt of $3.00/qt oil.

I think I have now stepped on everyone's toes... People are going to do whatever they want and are comfortable with. Personally, I think that it is still best to change your own oil and filter with whatever you want and however often you want to do it, so that you are familiar with what is going on. (btw, I'm closest to #5 - especially if you heard what my wife thinks).

Hopefully, no one takes offense at the above. Claim your #!!!

Isn't the OLM based on some magical calculation that is ultimately related to miles driven? Reason I ask is I switched to Amsoil 5W40 about 6000 miles ago and mine just hit 1% (change oil warning). I just reset it but without doing an analysis I'd still think I have another 4-5K miles left on this oil. If the OLM is an accurate measure then I guess I should be changing it?

Isn't the OLM based on some magical calculation that is ultimately related to miles driven? Reason I ask is I switched to Amsoil 5W40 about 6000 miles ago and mine just hit 1% (change oil warning). I just reset it but without doing an analysis I'd still think I have another 4-5K miles left on this oil. If the OLM is an accurate measure then I guess I should be changing it?

Ultimately, I guess that would be accurate. It is taking into account a bunch of different variables, of which mileage is one. A number of us have mentioned what these variables are at a minimum.

In my opinion, arbitrarily deciding to reset the DIC without any external info is your choice. I personally don't think that using AMSOIL, Mobil1, Rotella synthetic, etc. automatically means that oil doesn't need to be changed - it still gets dirty, additive packages get depleted, fuel & soot still get into the oil, etc.

Granted the OLM/DIC has to pick a least common denominator, and that is conventional motor oil. Should synthetic last longer in the same service? Yes. How long? Unless you do an UOA, you're guessing.

But I'm not running AMSOIL, and don't plan to. I automatically suspect any company that says go 25,000 miles or a year - just like I suspected when Mobil1 was new, and gave a arbitrary mileage interval as well.

Wynot;

Oil does not last indefintly. Mineral oil does break down over time. Gets combustion crap in it. Moisture.

There are everyone's opinion on when to change. I'm looking for a general guestimate as to when to change it.

Plus I have gotten samples done in the past. With the cost of everything going up, I want to run it longer.

You were particularly critical of others and what they do, but failed to mention what you do.

On edit.....

Not trying to cause anything or get people mad with this post.

Its a public forum. They can express their opinion.

Plus I asked.

:funnypost Wynot............

Even GM says you have 600 miles to change your oil after the OLM time bomb goes off.........

:rolleyes:

Max Owner - WTF over - is it cold and making you grumpy up there - Wynot's post is in jest obviously - and he said he's a #5........ None of those fit me........ I do 10K or 1 year on Mobil 1.

:rolleyes:

Most appologies.

Damn right. O freakin cold living in a 5th wheel untill the house is ready. :(

I belive Wynot has us all covered; damn funny stuff, too!

:)Wynot;

Oil does not last indefintly. Mineral oil does break down over time. Gets combustion crap in it. Moisture.

There are everyone's opinion on when to change. I'm looking for a general guestimate as to when to change it.

Plus I have gotten samples done in the past. With the cost of everything going up, I want to run it longer.

You were particularly critical of others and what they do, but failed to mention what you do.

On edit.....

Not trying to cause anything or get people mad with this post.

Its a public forum. They can express their opinion.

Plus I asked.

Certainly I did not say that mineral oil lasted forever, I said that was a baseline for the DIC. (lowest common denominator). I have run conventional motor oil for the majority of my driving life, majority of which have been diesel powered (as in "Before diesel was cool".) I still have one of my diesels which only gets 15W40 conventional oil.

I noted that I am closest to #5 (except that I do not change my oil at roadside, although my wife has suspected that I might if she weren't around). Specifically, I change when the DIC tells me to, even though I run synthetic (Rotella), because I tow regularily with it - a 5th Wheel among other trailers.

Why I put out the list is because I have been on multiple sites, since the early days of usenet (I used to be one of the arpanet sys admins), and motor oil has always been a fierce battlefield. Certain brands had/have fierce supporters who would not listen to anyone else having a differing opinion (kinda reminds me of a lotta Honda owners).

I tried to write the list as a very tongue-in-cheek piece, knowing I would tick some folks off. That's why I exaggerated most of the items, but if one steps back a moment, maybe we're all in one category or another.

OK, Jimmy wants his own number. 10,000 miles or 1 year on Mobil1. :p:

Of course people can do what they want. Because they will anyhow.

I don't care who you are THAT'S FUNNY!
8 to 10000 on dino; 13 to 15000 on synthetic with one sample at about 10000 for me. You guys crack me up!
I guess that makes me a 2 with a 6 modifier.

I change every 3000 with 5w40 synthetic and the reason i do is because it is black as coal and wynot that is some funny crap there

Dude - It's supposed to be black as coal all the time Charlie brown.......

I got laid off at the end of October, so suddenly I was only driving a mile each way to the coffee shop each day. I just happened to run an Oil Analysis, before and after this cataclysmic event. Everything was fine, and/or could be explained away, except the volume of fuel in the oil was <0.5% in the first test - and 4.5% in the second test. I'm thinking that I'm just not driving long enough to heat things up, otherwise that fuel in the oil would vaporize (or something).

So: if you're interested (and it sounds as if you are), the only way to answer that question is to take a sample at your next oil change and have it analyzed. And evaluate your normal driving profile, i.e., highway vs. stop and go in order to interpret the results.

Shadowm's point is really valid, especially with the cutback in larger (trucks/SUVs) use with the recent spike in fuel prices.

A lot of folks will take that yearly two week vacation after having driven very short drives, and *suddenly* their vehicle is using oil. No, it's finally getting the unburnt fuel (whether gas or diesel or water) out of the oil once it gets hot enough to drive it off.

Thinking about folks using their vehicle's less - now they have summer windshield washer in their tanks, summer fuel, etc...

Some interesting points guys.

Thanx.

If there are more opinions, let em fly.

AME 15w-40 with Dual Bypass filtration. Last run went 24k. Was hoping to go 30k, but I had higher silica counts than I was comfortable with. UOA came back w/ a TBN of 7.5 and advised me to keep an eye on the silica level. Other than that, oil was more than good for use, but silica=dirt=extra wear on my $11k engine, so what does $120 hurt for another 20k mile run? Hopefully next will go 30k miles. If not, I may just go back to dino and 10k mile changes with my filtration set up. That will be decided later and I would probably just use Delo, Delvac, or Rotella.

hey guys that do oil analysis Ive used blackstone in the past but was wondering how you guys draw your sample.

There is a bunch of good info on their website.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

hey guys that do oil analysis Ive used blackstone in the past but was wondering how you guys draw your sample.

Install a Fumoto Valve at your next oil change. That way you can do it cleanly with the engine running no mess at all.

Change oil, Rotella syn, 2X per yr along with oil and fuel filter. Do it just prior to traveling between the two places we live.

The buzz here seems to be that synthetic oil is needed to extend OCI's. IMO that's far from accurate. Today's dino formulas work extremely well to extend oil drains. In fact my last UOA using Delvac 1300S yielded slightly better results @ 20K than Amsoil full syn which I only tried once. The only advantage I can see to running a full syn would be for cold starts in harsh climates. Other than that I consider it money wasted. But that's just my opinion. Flame suit on....

I agree with A Bear.

I'm only using synthetic for cold climate application.

40-45K miles on Amsoil 15w40. Oil analysis every 10K. Spin on filter changed every 5k miles. Never had an analysis tell me to change it at 40-45k but do it anyways for peace of mind.

40-45K miles on Amsoil 15w40. Oil analysis every 10K. Spin on filter changed every 5k miles. Never had an analysis tell me to change it at 40-45k but do it anyways for peace of mind.

Yee ikes! :eek:

Yee ikes! :eek:

Just depends on what you are comfortable with.......

40-45K miles on Amsoil 15w40. Oil analysis every 10K. Spin on filter changed every 5k miles. Never had an analysis tell me to change it at 40-45k but do it anyways for peace of mind.

Hey man you mind posting your 40K UOA. I'm curious about the contaminate numbers and TBN?? Don't remember seeing any over 40K for the DMax.

The buzz here seems to be that synthetic oil is needed to extend OCI's. IMO that's far from accurate. Today's dino formulas work extremely well to extend oil drains. In fact my last UOA using Delvac 1300S yielded slightly better results @ 20K than Amsoil full syn which I only tried once. The only advantage I can see to running a full syn would be for cold starts in harsh climates. Other than that I consider it money wasted. But that's just my opinion. Flame suit on....

Dino oil has been plenty protection for years....
I would be curious to know what part of the results were better with the Delvac than with the synthetic tho.
I wonder if the detergents and conditioners in the synthetics might have stirred up stuff the dino oil wouldn't? maybe it would have cleared up / not happened with a longer history of synthetics?

In my 02 gmc I have ran the oil for 18,000 (new oil and filter 9000 mile new filter 9000 more) from day one tell the new amsoil filter came out,now I go 25,000 miles,It has 329,000 mile and runs like new,put down 12.6 at 107.5 mph 6 or 7 weeks ago (oil amsoil 5-40)

In my 02 gmc I have ran the oil for 18,000 (new oil and filter 9000 mile new filter 9000 more) from day one tell the new amsoil filter came out,now I go 25,000 miles,It has 329,000 mile and runs like new,put down 12.6 at 107.5 mph 6 or 7 weeks ago (oil amsoil 5-40)
My truck looks up to yours.

Isn't the OLM based on some magical calculation that is ultimately related to miles driven? Reason I ask is I switched to Amsoil 5W40 about 6000 miles ago and mine just hit 1% (change oil warning). I just reset it but without doing an analysis I'd still think I have another 4-5K miles left on this oil. If the OLM is an accurate measure then I guess I should be changing it?

I'm running Amsoil 5w50 and EaO filter. Just had an analysis done after 10k miles and TBN was 3. They(Blackstone) suggested not running it any longer than 10k. Mostly daily driving with a little towing.

On another note, I put Amsoil 5w30 and EaO on one of our business suburbans with a 5.3 and purely by accident(and no one paying attention) the oil and filter went almost 25k miles, all highway, before I changed it. Oil was VERY thick, like I have never seen before. Sent oil in for analysis and Blackstone called me to ask about it. Bottom line was to not ever do that again. Analysis was ugly, hopefully no damage done.

Ummmm, 5w-50 isn't the right oil for your diesel. Maybe that's why it wasn't high on the TBN?

No, I just can't type. Should say 5w-40

Dino oil has been plenty protection for years....
I would be curious to know what part of the results were better with the Delvac than with the synthetic tho.
I wonder if the detergents and conditioners in the synthetics might have stirred up stuff the dino oil wouldn't? maybe it would have cleared up / not happened with a longer history of synthetics?

Here's the difference. Basically the same driving conditions and the same OCI.

Mobil Delvac 1300S verses Amsoil 5w40 (Main wear metals)

Iron- Amsoil was 2 ppm higher.
Lead- Amsoil was 1 ppm higher.
Copper- Amsoil was 1 ppm higher.
Tin- Amsoil was 1 ppm lower.
Aluminum- Amsoil was 1 ppm lower.

As you can see the results were very close. In fact I couldn't believe the numbers were almost exact?? I will also add that this is not the 1st time I had linear results when comparing dino to syn. That's why I'm holding firm on my opinion that the only advantage of synthetic lube is during cold start temperature extremes. Don't see that here in the South. As far as extended drains I've had equal results with dino. Eliminating the theory that syn is needed for this app. :)

It seems to me that testing the oil is a waste of money. If you spend about $35 per test (22.50+ 1.85 s&h + 10 TBN), and a new oil change cost about $65 (AMSOIL $6X10qts + PF2232 $5) which is over 50% of the cost to replace the oil. So why do it at all?

It seems to me that testing the oil is a waste of money. If you spend about $35 per test (22.50+ 1.85 s&h + 10 TBN), and a new oil change cost about $65 (AMSOIL $6X10qts + PF2232 $5) which is over 50% of the cost to replace the oil. So why do it at all?

I use UOA's for more than determining oil life. For me it's a tool for detecting problems before they cause a costly failure which is very expensive for diesels. The cost of UOA's during the life of an engine is cheap insurance IMO.
If cost were a factor I'd rather run dino with the added cost of an analysis than to use synthetic blindly.

On edit: The cost of running the TBN isn't really necessary with the use of ULSD since TBN depletion in very minimal with low sulfur fuel. If wear metals and additive values are in check then the oil is performing as intended. Once I establish a TBN value verses OCI baseline I usually delete it from the analysis.

Just a question for you guys that test oil. How big is the sample? Could I go through the dipstick and pull oil out that way?

Just a question for you guys that test oil. How big is the sample? Could I go through the dipstick and pull oil out that way?

Amsoil (and I assume others) sell a suction gun designed for pulling samples from the dipstick, which is how I do both my engine and transmission oil.

I haven't put on a Fumoto valve, so I don't do it that way (can't do the tranny that way anyways). Anyone with a Fumoto valve ever had it accidentally open on you?

..............Anyone with a Fumoto valve ever had it accidentally open on you?


I run the Fumoto on several rigs no problemo. If you went offroad thru brush a lot it might be a concern.

I too run the Fumoto but also prefer the dipstick pump for sampling. My reasons are that I find it easier to draw a clean uniform sample w/o having to drain a couple of qts of oil. For those that use the fumoto for sampling I would make sure to clean the exposed internal part of the valve real good before catching the sample. If not you may find yourself with a false high on the silicon ppm's. That happened to me once even though I flushed the valve.

My personal preference is to catch my sample with the sampling pump, fresh tubing (real cheap at Lowes), engine running, and at normal operating temp. I insert the tubing no more than about 1/2" past the normal depth the dipstick tip would reach.

The Fumoto Valve is the bomb especially for UOA. I put the safety clip on mine so it can't open by accident.

The Fumoto Valve is the bomb especially for UOA. I put the safety clip on mine so it can't open by accident.


Don't recall the hose clamp/clip being shown before - now I see it recommended on the Fumotousa.com site - not a bad idea - I will be getting a clip.



http://www.fumotousa.com/images/valvewithclip_150.jpg

http://www.fumotousa.com/images/hoseclip_100.jpg

http://www.fumotousa.com/images/valveanimation.gif

Just changed mine @ 13k sent in a sample and came back clean as heck. I think I will go to 20k next time with UOA at 10k.
OK, what's "UOA"?

Used oil analysis

wow......I change mine every 7500, at most 10k depending on season, regardless.
Im running Rotella Syn. Costs about 50 bucks per change. Never have done a UOA though

I too run the Fumoto but also prefer the dipstick pump for sampling. My reasons are that I find it easier to draw a clean uniform sample w/o having to drain a couple of qts of oil. For those that use the fumoto for sampling I would make sure to clean the exposed internal part of the valve real good before catching the sample. If not you may find yourself with a false high on the silicon ppm's. That happened to me once even though I flushed the valve.

My personal preference is to catch my sample with the sampling pump, fresh tubing (real cheap at Lowes), engine running, and at normal operating temp. I insert the tubing no more than about 1/2" past the normal depth the dipstick tip would reach.

Ah too much trouble. Buy the Fumoto valve with the nipple on it. Put a piece of hose on it with a bolt for a plug and hose clamp it to the nipple. Valve is always clean for sampling and you can do it with the engine running so you get a uniform sample. Takes 2 minutes to get the sample and 1.5 of that is taking the safety clip off and on and undoing the hose clamp on the tube with plug in it.

Ah too much trouble. Buy the Fumoto valve with the nipple on it. Put a piece of hose on it with a bolt for a plug and hose clamp it to the nipple. Valve is always clean for sampling and you can do it with the engine running so you get a uniform sample. Takes 2 minutes to get the sample and 1.5 of that is taking the safety clip off and on and undoing the hose clamp on the tube with plug in it.

X2! ;)

Changed oil and Filter With Duel Remote Filter(Amsoil 15-40 marine)
7k and just got Analisis back good to go another 25k suggested but Damn Im scared, I'm old school. My truck has 230k I guess i'll trust the Results ...?????
It was high on the magniesium 91? any thoughts there?
UNIT ID

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UNIT TYPE
DIESEL ENGINE
APPLICATION
TRANSPORTATION http://www.trackmysample.com/images/oilanalyzerlogo.gif COMPANY INFORMATION
MANUFACTURER/MODELGENERAL MOTORS 2500HD LUBE MFRAMSOIL LUBE TYPE - GRADEAME SYN HD DIESEL _ MARINE OIL SAE 15W40 MICRON RATING2FILTER TYPEBYPASS SUMP CAPACITY12.00HYD SYSTEM PRESSURE0FLUID ADDED OVERALL SEVERITY OF REPORT
based on comments, not individual flags
http://www.trackmysample.com/images/sevgraph/severity_num_1.png LAB #LOCATIONANALYST019464IEADFLUID ANALYSIS REPORT - 877-458-3315COMMENTSData flagged for observation only; Magnesium is slightly high for this lubricant; Continue to use fluid for 25,000 miles (40,000km) and resample at that time; Unit and/or lube TIME missing;

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L

Vol.S
O
O
T

Vol.
W
A
T
E
R

Infrared V
I
S

40C
CSV
I
S

100C
CST
A
N

Total
AcidT
B
N

Total
BaseI-R

O
X
I
D
A
I-R

N
I
T
R
A
ISO

C
O
D
E
4

M
I
C
R
O
N 6

M
I
C
R
O
N 10

M
I
C
R
O
N 14

M
I
C
R
O
N 21

M
I
C
R
O
N 38

M
I
C
R
O
N 70

M
I
C
R
O
N 100

M
I
C
R
O
N111/19/08
12/10/08
NN<.5%0.1%<.1 14.2 10.403412
SAMP # 1

Maybe repost this UOA? Pretty difficult to read.....

I'll agree ........I'll try and edit :o:

Amsoil ame 15w40 with bypass filter. I change the oil once a year. However that is only about 7500 miles.

http://www.trackmysample.com/HORIZON_3_0/viewrpt_tms_new.cfm?findar=1&tracknum=08313o03870&n88=2352137898&n89=7898235213

Ah too much trouble. Buy the Fumoto valve with the nipple on it. Put a piece of hose on it with a bolt for a plug and hose clamp it to the nipple. Valve is always clean for sampling and you can do it with the engine running so you get a uniform sample. Takes 2 minutes to get the sample and 1.5 of that is taking the safety clip off and on and undoing the hose clamp on the tube with plug in it.

To each his own but I'd be willing to bet I can pull a sample in much less time than it takes to round up a screwdriver and drain pan, then crawl under the truck, unscrew clamp, remove hose, drain a couple of quarts into container, catch sample, then refill the truck with oil, and clean up. FWIW, I don't think all that can be accomplished in 2 minutes. But I'd be willing to bet I can pop my hood pull the dipstick and fill my bottle in under 2 minutes with my Sunday cloth on and not get a drop of oil or dirt on my hands and cloth. Hell I think I may even be able to catch the sample in a minute or less....;)
I still like the Fumoto for oil changes though. Have one on all my vehicles. :D

To each his own but I'd be willing to bet I can pull a sample in much less time than it takes to round up a screwdriver and drain pan, then crawl under the truck, unscrew clamp, remove hose, drain a couple of quarts into container, catch sample, then refill the truck with oil, and clean up. FWIW, I don't think all that can be accomplished in 2 minutes. But I'd be willing to bet I can pop my hood pull the dipstick and fill my bottle in under 2 minutes with my Sunday cloth on and not get a drop of oil or dirt on my hands and cloth. Hell I think I may even be able to catch the sample in a minute or less....;)
I still like the Fumoto for oil changes though. Have one on all my vehicles. :D

No need to drain 2 qts so no need for a drain pan. If you do it while the engine is running after driving home from somewhere its all stirred up. So it takes 2 minutes to get under undo one hose clamp remove the safety clip pop the valve drain 3 oz and replace the hose clamp & safety clip. But like you said to each their own. We do agree the Fumoto Valve is the way to go without a doubt. Worth every penny!

Hey man you mind posting your 40K UOA. I'm curious about the contaminate numbers and TBN?? Don't remember seeing any over 40K for the DMax.

This is on a fleet of ford trucks. I am only up to 15K on the oil in my Duramax right now. I don't see the point in changing oil when it doesn't need to be changed. If you don't monitor it then it would be risky going 40-45K. Also it is all in what your comfortable with. I started with 10K mile changes with Amsoil and just kept stretching it from there to get to the 40-45K mile range. This was with 7.3,6.0, and 6.4 powerstrokes. I will stretch my Duramax oil change out until an analysis tells me to drain it. Like I said its all in what your comfortable with.

Im from cleveland ohio...
Where might I go to get an analysis done?
Thanks for the help...
Currently I am changing oil every 5K

Look up Blackstone Labratories on the internet. That's where I get mine done and it seems many others do too.

Im from cleveland ohio...
Where might I go to get an analysis done?

I get mine from Oil Anylizers, and I beleive they are in Cleveland. Give that a shot. Only costs me 22 bucks and that with shipping:D

i have a little over 13,000 on amsoil 15w40 uoa at 10,000 said it was good just changed filter and topped off with fresh oil.looking to get 25,000+ just like they say you can.

I run Amsoil 5w-40 diesel oil. I change the oil every 10k and the filter with a EaO filter from amsoil every 5K. I did samples for the first couple of changes and the oil still had life doing it this way at 10k. If you have a bypass filter system you can get even more mileage out of your oil. You do need to come up with a system(through sampling) that works for your truck with the way that you run it. My 2 CENTS

I went 20,000 first oil change after installing the bypass system...

Gonna go further this time if the oil analysis allows...

I went 20,000 first oil change after installing the bypass system...

Gonna go further this time if the oil analysis allows...

It will bypass systems and dual bypass in particular are the cats meow of oil filtration.

Im from cleveland ohio...
Where might I go to get an analysis done?
Thanks for the help...
Currently I am changing oil every 5K

oaitesting.com is for Oil Analizers the kits can be bought through an Amsoil dealer and the kits include shipping containers and lab fees.