It started doing this right around the time I installed the Turbo-Master. I just figured it was the over or under boost. I installed the boost fooler and cured the fuel cutting back problem but the light still comes on when I break approx. 72 MPH. It goes off after a few trips and doesn't come back untill I break 72 again. I don't really have access to a scanner without paying, so I thought maybe somebody here might have a suggestion before I look for a scanner.

My transmission seems to shift from direct to overdrive too soon. Just noticed it last week. Might be related to the SES???

Any suggestions if I buy my own scanner? My Snap-On guy has a MT2500 for $750. I know that's a good deal, but I just don't need to spend that much right now. It would be great if I could find something for less than $100.

Check out this program: http://www.obd-2.com/

And another: http://www.autotap.com/

You can buy code readers fairly cheap.

You could take it to a garage and have it scanned for 50 bucks or less, maybe even free.

May try one of those discount auto stores that offer code testing for free, like A-zone.

I wouldn't be surprised to see transmission component slip DTC that comes when the TCC isn't locking right. In OBDI it's DTC 68. OBDII?

What about overboost? If you are running the stock ECM then overboost will put into limp. Just a thought. I know when I put my Turbo-Master on before the new ECM it would go into limp, then I put in the new ECM and the problem went away. But high boost at lower speeds would also cause this.

What type resister did you add? a veriable? It's possible you have it too far or not far enough. I turn mine in 'till it lights then back it out a touch.

It started doing this right around the time I installed the Turbo-Master
There's your problem

Gauge it! or crank that thing down some.

I had the same thing on my 95 after I put in my home-made turbomaster. If I would sustain speeds over 70mph for more than a minute or so, the SES would come on.

"Crank that thing down some", as CR so elegantly put it. ;)

Hey buy the Snap on scanner, for the price that is a great deal, it will pay for itself in the long run plus it works on all domestic makes and if you get the foreign cartridges most of those also, the others are just readers with no bi-directional testing ability. Ie time set, rpm control, glow on, shutdown, gear select, etc.

Need to dial down the TM & get/build a fooler to stay at higher code free boost, if you don't have gages though; you shouldn't be running more than 7 psi boost anyway which should keep youi just below setting a code, depending on gear ratio 7 still mite set a code.

Boost fooler is a potentiometer wired in just like your diagram (QM). I have gauges and I'm running 9 PSI max boost. My pot. said 5k ohm on the box, but I noticed it said 50k stamped in the back of the actual part. It is a linear taper. I have tried running it at different settings with no effect on the SES coming on at speed. I don't think that is the problem. I usually turn the pot as far CW till power cuts back then CCW just a tad. I can't tell that fuel cuts back when I turn it full CCW. Maybe the 50K pot is too much???? But I still think the SES is unrelated. The 3-4 shift sure does feel strange. I guess I should just get the MT2500 and stop guessing.

I think 50k is WAY too much, 10k is good, 20k is about as high as you can go, with 50k you might be setting a Low boost code. Can you jumper across the pot to restore factory readings and see if that fixes it? Depending on how you wired it, CW or CCW could be full on or off, know what I mean?

Yeah, I bet thats it. I'll just get a 10k and see if it still comes on. I didn't think about underboost. That would explain why it did it before I installed the pot. I had to run the boost real low to keep the fuel from cutting back. The light would come on over 72 just like it does now.