Im about to buy a 03 LB7 CCSB and im wanting to do a 6" lift and 35s. for starters what are some good kits, ive got a 350 diesel with a BDS kit and its worked fine for 4 years now, and im not a newb to the whole install game. i owned a tahoe before and was gonna lift it and heard procomp has a good IFS system. thats half tons. whos got a good lift for the buck. im looking for a full drop too. and how much am i lookin to spend on a lift for a 2500hd

You want to stick with RCD or Cognito. They have the best kits on the market. You say full drop? Does that mean you don't want a kit that includes a taller spindle/knuckle?

Im about to buy a 03 LB7 CCSB and im wanting to do a 6" lift and 35s. for starters what are some good kits, ive got a 350 diesel with a BDS kit and its worked fine for 4 years now, and im not a newb to the whole install game. i owned a tahoe before and was gonna lift it and heard procomp has a good IFS system. thats half tons. whos got a good lift for the buck. im looking for a full drop too. and how much am i lookin to spend on a lift for a 2500hd

If you are looking for a full drop kit, then go with Cognito, it drop the front diff the same amount as the lift.

ive been familiar with cognitio, forgot about them, they have sick kits and same with rize, but the cognitos break the bank real hard. i heard there are new fabtechs that dont bump the trackwidth way out like before? am i correct?

A 4-6" Cognito NTB can be had for around $1800 with shocks and blocks/u-bolt kit. Not to bad for a break the bank kit.

Fabtech's 6" kit is narrower now than before, but they are in the same ball park for pricing and only drop the front diff 4 1/2 inches instead of 6 like the lift states and leave you with steep CV and tie rod angles.

My vote goes with Cognito.

Another vote for Cognito

I if I was gonna get another I would either get the cognito again or look real close at the rize I love the way they look.

My vote is cognito as well. Second would be cst IMO

how far does the 6in RCD drop the differential? is it a full drop kit?

Mike

how far does the 6in RCD drop the differential? is it a full drop kit?

Mike
RCD drops it 5". I think Cognito's 4" to 6" only drops it 4" and the 7" to 9" drops it 7".

there is a cult out there for the cognito and cst... don't get me wrong, im sure they are good.... but for a 1/3 of the price and same if not better quality, i'd go tuff country. I love mine, ive beat the crap our of it and had zero problems, zero complaints.... all for $1100 new.
The precision in perfect to... i took it to get aligned after the lift and they only had to set the toe... everything else was dead on.

Cognito.

RCD drops it 5".


RCD drops the diff 4.5". Also, I'm a little confused here. I've always thought and been told that a full drop kit drops the UCA's, LCA's, Steering Components and Diff the advertised amount, hence the name "Full Suspension Drop" but it seems to me that some people are calling a knuckle lift a full drop if the diff is dropped the same height as the knuckles and the UCA's and Steering Components stay in the stock location. Which one is correct? I know it's not a save the world kind of question, but I'd just like to know what the Suspension Guru's out there think.

Full drop means they drop the differential the advertised amount and not part way and use the torsion bars for the rest like RCD does.

Cst

I like my fabtech.

All around you can't beat the Cognito. Cognito makes the most upgrades on the market for the HD truck. So where other kits are not bad as a base package Cognito has you covered to the end with what ever your needs are for what you use your truck for. There kits are spindle style kits that deflect UCA pressure and reduces all the cutting as you see in other UCA drop style kits.

so this is what I am really trying to figure out. If I were to go with the 6in RCD could I set it at 4.5in and have completely flat cv angles? since the diff is dropped only 4.5 in. Or do you need to have at least a couple cranks on the bars?

I would say that at a true 4.5" stance the lower control arm would be compressed out on the compression stop if you could even get it that low?

I would say that at a true 4.5" stance the lower control arm would be compressed out on the compression stop if you could even get it that low?

Nick, is this because even though the diff is dropped 4.5" the spindles are 6"? I'm trying to get a better understanding of all the different lifts as well even though I've pretty much decided on which one when the time comes.

NO .. you have the diff drop spec, then you have the drop of the lower control arms. If they are not the same then you have bad working angles to start. So if you drop the stance the CV will get better but then you will have a harsh compression since it is already/might be sitting on the stop. Not sure 100% on this with that lift but that is the scenario.

If you go with Cognito, you won't be sorry.

I love my RCD but I see it more as a 5" lift. My dads pro comp sits about an inch higher. I think Cognito is the way to go if you want all that bling bling stuff but if you want a good durable lift to clear 35"s go RCD. It already comes with bilsteins.

how about BDS? i hear they have a decent kitt too.

if you want all that bling bling crap then buy rize!

if you want all that bling bling crap then buy rize!


Isn't that the truth and you'd better have a Gold mine to pay for it too. IMHO, those kits are Censored

Go with Cognito or Cst.

fabtech all the way, i beat the holy crap out of mine for 80k miles. many many miles of offroad 4 wheel abuse and no problems at all! But i have heard great things about cognito and Cst as well. just my 2..

ok that sums it up for me I'm going Cognito! thanks for the help

Mike

i like cognitos idler/pitman arm supports but their 4-6" kits im not big of a fan. i want a true 6" not some adjustable shit. dont get me wrong its a great kit but im more leaning towards the cst or rcd.



how are the procomps yay nay?

I know your going with cognito, but make sure it's the size you want. Myself and many people I know wish they would've gone a lil bigger when purchasing the first kit. I had an RCD 6" and didn't like it at all. Someone said it sat about 5", he's very right. I put torsion keys and it made it worse. So I looked at:
Cognito --Nice
CST-WAY TO EXPENSIVE
RIZE - to much sh*t hanging down fron underneath your truck
FTS - same as rize
Whiplash - nice and good prices
Pro comps -nice too, few buddies have them
Bulletproof - What I have and never liked anything more, price isn't that bad, and it has a BAD ASS steering set-up. just my opinion and .02... I got a lot of other goodies at the time of my install and spent well more than 10,000 (had some problems) I also considered every suspension mentioned above. But then again you are going with 35's. Just see what all the kits have to offer. Remember if you want to put it back to stock, somekits won't allow you. RCD is one of them. You have to cut off the differential mounting tab on some kits. Good luck bro!
-Steve

i like cognitos idler/pitman arm supports but their 4-6" kits im not big of a fan. i want a true 6" not some adjustable shit. dont get me wrong its a great kit but im more leaning towards the cst or rcd.



how are the procomps yay nay?


Upper control arm kits like ProComp are old design and require alot of cutting.

I saw you said 35's in you first post, what wheel are you looking at. You can build a suspension package 2 ways. Lift kits that best suites the tire and wheel or tire and wheels that best suite the lift kit.

The BEST all around lift size is the one that has the best working angles (CV's, Tie Rods and ball joints) at the height it takes to clear your tires and wheels you pick out.

im lookin at either 35 toyos or 35-36 mud grapplers on 20" kmc diesels. im not stupid to trucks as i said before i got a 350 7.3 on 37s, its just i dont see why they cant have solid axle fronts on these chevys. IFS sucks.

im lookin at either 35 toyos or 35-36 mud grapplers on 20" kmc diesels. im not stupid to trucks as i said before i got a 350 7.3 on 37s, its just i dont see why they cant have solid axle fronts on these chevys. IFS sucks.

Well I will tell you knowing Ford's myself. There is a fine line with setting up the IFS chevy's to work in better ways than others. Since they are adjustable the main problem that happens is people buy a lift package and then they end up with a set of tires and wheels that rub alittle and they crank the kit up to clear it better. In the end the 2 tires you just stated have a big difference if fitment pending the wheel width and or backspacing, so like I said starting off on the right foot and matching all components together is the most economical way of building a IFS truck.

On a Ford you have a ton of fender trimming available un-like the Chevy's and GM's. Your right IFS sucks, when not built or set up right for what the end user demands and uses there truck for. I just came from F250's in my past few years and changed to a Chevy. Sure before I was into BIG tires and I myself feel 37's or larger should have a straight axle and leafs or 4-links. But 35's and under you can build a very nice suspension that will last through alot of todays truck owns for what they use them for. If you want a true full function off road truck ...well you bought the wrong truck. Too heavy and large, a Jeep or Toyota is a better chose. If you want a great tow rig that can get you in and out of camping trails and do some mild off roading for hunting yet take your kids to school or on a road trip, well your Chevy/GM IFS truck can be altered with a suspension package that will be more than capable of doing so.

The main issue's that IFS owners see is due to set up and product that don't offer deflection to OEM components from the added leverage of larger tires and wheels.



The BEST all around lift size is the one that has the best working angles (CV's, Tie Rods and ball joints) at the height it takes to clear your tires and wheels you pick out.

I guess what I am saying is really look at your tire and wheel package more to better suite your first question "Best lift all around". Nitto mud's I would stay away from because they demand alot more turning room since they are a VERY heavy cleat pattern. I would say yes on the Toyo Mud's but then again the 20" KMC Diesel will be a 10" wide & 4.5"bs wheel that is alittle wide for turning clearance if you don't want to much fender gap over the tire. If you could find yourself a 20x9 with about 5"bs you would be bettering yourself for what you are after in look and fitment. Sounds like so little but man every little be matters when you are installing all this and find yourself running out of room and best travel range to maintain your ride and working angles.


I hope all this helps. Not knocking your question but it is a loaded questions and even if you get the BEST lift kit sticker on your truck doesn't mean squat if it's used or set up wrong.

i like cognitos idler/pitman arm supports but their 4-6" kits im not big of a fan. i want a true 6" not some adjustable shit. dont get me wrong its a great kit but im more leaning towards the cst or rcd.



how are the procomps yay nay?

If you want a true 6" why not a Cognito 7"......you just gained 1" without cranking your bars at all......

Well I will tell you knowing Ford's myself. There is a fine line with setting up the IFS chevy's to work in better ways than others. Since they are adjustable the main problem that happens is people buy a lift package and then they end up with a set of tires and wheels that rub alittle and they crank the kit up to clear it better. In the end the 2 tires you just stated have a big difference if fitment pending the wheel width and or backspacing, so like I said starting off on the right foot and matching all components together is the most economical way of building a IFS truck.

On a Ford you have a ton of fender trimming available un-like the Chevy's and GM's. Your right IFS sucks, when not built or set up right for what the end user demands and uses there truck for. I just came from F250's in my past few years and changed to a Chevy. Sure before I was into BIG tires and I myself feel 37's or larger should have a straight axle and leafs or 4-links. But 35's and under you can build a very nice suspension that will last through alot of todays truck owns for what they use them for. If you want a true full function off road truck ...well you bought the wrong truck. Too heavy and large, a Jeep or Toyota is a better chose. If you want a great tow rig that can get you in and out of camping trails and do some mild off roading for hunting yet take your kids to school or on a road trip, well your Chevy/GM IFS truck can be altered with a suspension package that will be more than capable of doing so.

The main issue's that IFS owners see is due to set up and product that don't offer deflection to OEM components from the added leverage of larger tires and wheels.




I guess what I am saying is really look at your tire and wheel package more to better suite your first question "Best lift all around". Nitto mud's I would stay away from because they demand alot more turning room since they are a VERY heavy cleat pattern. I would say yes on the Toyo Mud's but then again the 20" KMC Diesel will be a 10" wide & 4.5"bs wheel that is alittle wide for turning clearance if you don't want to much fender gap over the tire. If you could find yourself a 20x9 with about 5"bs you would be bettering yourself for what you are after in look and fitment. Sounds like so little but man every little be matters when you are installing all this and find yourself running out of room and best travel range to maintain your ride and working angles.


I hope all this helps. Not knocking your question but it is a loaded questions and even if you get the BEST lift kit sticker on your truck doesn't mean squat if it's used or set up wrong.
well im not trying to be stubborn here but i really like the diesels and im about as picky as it gets with rims. i think they might come in 9" but what lift kit would you recommend for that setup. all i would be using it for is some mild-moderate mudding in FL and a truck that runs around 13 in a 1/4. im not asking for all the bells and whistles i just want something thats going to last and i already know from owning a tahoe that the pitman/idler arms are garbage. how would you suggest this setup. it seems more complicated with these IFS trucks than the fords :p:

I have 20X9 with 5" backspacing on 7" Cognito. Check garage for pics. The rims are BMF's.

I looked and they are a 20x10, they don't have a 20x9:(

Bells and whistle's,
As in chrome and fancy cool looking stuff?
Or....
Upgrades to the OEM components that are common to failure?



Any spindle style lift kit is a great start for the foundation of a lift kit. Spindle kits are easier and cleaner to install. Here is my list of suspension kits to look at in the range you are looking for:

1. Cognito - Awesome product that can be custom tailored in option to fit anyones needs.
2. RCD - Great kit w/Bilstein's but pre-packaged so when you want to instead use some upgraded product you waste your money with the parts you don't use.
3. Tuff Country - Great kit that comes w/standard white shocks or can be purchased with out shocks.

All spindle kits in the range you are looking for. All 3 kits lined up with apple to apple options are all about the same price. The difference of each and options set them apart in pricing pending what you pick out to upgrade.

I looked and they are a 20x10, they don't have a 20x9:(

Bells and whistle's,
As in chrome and fancy cool looking stuff?
Or....
Upgrades to the OEM components that are common to failure?



Any spindle style lift kit is a great start for the foundation of a lift kit. Spindle kits are easier and cleaner to install. Here is my list of suspension kits to look at in the range you are looking for:

1. Cognito - Awesome product that can be custom tailored in option to fit anyones needs.
2. RCD - Great kit w/Bilstein's but pre-packaged so when you want to instead use some upgraded product you waste your money with the parts you don't use.
3. Tuff Country - Great kit that comes w/standard white shocks or can be purchased with out shocks.

All spindle kits in the range you are looking for. All 3 kits lined up with apple to apple options are all about the same price. The difference of each and options set them apart in pricing pending what you pick out to upgrade.

would the 20x10s make that big of a difference? bells and whistles as in chrome and all ha. i like the tough country kits, i can get probably get fox shocks for pretty cheap. what would the specifications need to be with a 6" kit so i can check? what exactly is the tough country? sorry for the questions im just trying to get an exact idea on what is what and all. what upgrades are there besides pitman/idler arms.

what upgrades are there besides pitman/idler arms.

You can go to polyurethane UCA, LCA, Body Mount, Sway Bar and Rear Spring Eye Bushings. In other words get rid of all the rubber bushings. You can also go to a better set of tie rods and the Cognito Pitman & Idler support kit. I have made all those changes on my truck plus I changed out the GM Idler and Pitman arms for Spicer Parts. The truck feels more solid and the steering is much more firm & positive. I also have the Cognito 4-6" NTB kit on the truck as well and I can't say enough good about it. I think an appropriate word would be impressive. IMHO, You'll never go wrong buying a Cognito lift.

how much is it all to go to polyurethane? where do you get them cognito? the cognito site has me a little confused. it says 4-6 and theres like 2 different front kits? also the rear is only lifted 2 inches??

how much is it all to go to polyurethane? where do you get them cognito? the cognito site has me a little confused. it says 4-6 and theres like 2 different front kits? also the rear is only lifted 2 inches??


I don't know the exact cost now but all the above listed polyurethane bushings are made by Energy Suspension. The 4-6 comes in either a Non Torsion Bar drop or a Torsion Bar Drop. The NTB drop kit keeps the TB's up in the stock location whereas the TB Drop moves them down the same height as the front knuckles. The Knuckles and Subframe parts are the same on both kits. GM trucks usually have about 2" height difference from front to rear so if you lift the front 4" you only need 2" of lift in the rear to make the truck sit level. If you decide to go for 6" of lift in the front then you only need 4" of lift in the rear. Cognito offers you the options of AAL's, blocks or Deaver Spring packs for the rear. Once you decide how high in the front you want to go, you can then pick the type of rear lift you need to level out your truck. Cognito has great customer service so if you have any questions, give them a call and they will answer all your questions. You can also call Norcal truck (Nick or Jeff) as they are right up to date on Cognito. Norcal also sells Energy suspension and I'm sure Nick will give you a good price on the poly bushings.

I went with the cst because they were the only lift that had no issue with me running 20x12 wheels with there upper a arm,I am very pleased with the handling drives realy nice,cant even tell I am running wheels that wide,I am running there 9-11 it is set all the way up with green keys and still performes and rides great,and I still have the ability to return to stock if desired.

cst is so expensive though. im guessin your in cali too?

No I am in Idaho ,moved here from cali 15 years ago,my brother was the first one to lift his 01 duramax,we both like the look of the wider wheel tire combo and as i stated before CST was the only ones who had no issue with that,the 9-11 lift kit was actually on his truck first I liked it so much I had ordered the 6-8 inch kit for mine,but he decided he would like to lower his for more of a daily driver and offered to swap me and pay the extra cost for his removal,the problem here in Idaho is no one fixs up trucks that much so when the cops see this they love to pull me over.Anyways the cost of the 6-8 with the dual shock hoop and a arm and block for the rear was about $3500.00.