Any pointers for swapping the IP on a 6.2? [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Any pointers for swapping the IP on a 6.2?


leviegray
11-19-2008, 10:08 PM
I posted before and am afraid that my ip may be shot. I have a spare off of an 83 6.2 It looks to be identical to mine. Any pointers on how to change it over and get everything aligned and timed correctly?



Thanks!

nate379
11-20-2008, 12:15 AM
Good question.

On that same note, I have/had a good pump on a bad 6.2. Well I pulled the pump off but I didn't realize it was bolted to the gear in the timing case. (Sorry I'm new to these 6.2s)

The pump came off really easy so I didn't think anything was wrong, but it left the shaft on the timing gear. Did I mess up the pump or can I just put the shaft back in there??

MrBanjo
11-20-2008, 01:43 PM
Good question.

On that same note, I have/had a good pump on a bad 6.2. Well I pulled the pump off but I didn't realize it was bolted to the gear in the timing case. (Sorry I'm new to these 6.2s)

The pump came off really easy so I didn't think anything was wrong, but it left the shaft on the timing gear. Did I mess up the pump or can I just put the shaft back in there??

what shaft?? the alignment pin?

MrBanjo
11-20-2008, 02:10 PM
I posted before and am afraid that my ip may be shot. I have a spare off of an 83 6.2 It looks to be identical to mine. Any pointers on how to change it over and get everything aligned and timed correctly?



Thanks!

removing and installing an IP isn't too big a deal.

remove the intake manifold. plug the intake ports with some shop towles. just in case ;)

you need to remove the 3 15mil nuts off the back, remove the oil fill neck to acess the 13mil bolts holding the pump to the timing gear. loosen and remove the ip lines 5/8 at the pump and 3/4 at the injector. you'll either need a 1/4 turn 5/8 or crows foot to get to the lines at the bottom of the pump. when you remove the lines make sure you keep track of where they go. it'll save you a bunck of time later :)

when you install the new IP align the timing marks. take it for a test drive, adjust time as needed.

donniej
11-20-2008, 02:16 PM
I did a write up on this a while ago for my 1993 6.5, which is very similar. Try searching for my posts in the 6.5 forum and I'm sure you'll find it.

It's a pretty straight forward job. It takes a day, maybe 2.

nate379
11-20-2008, 07:46 PM
The shaft that bolts to the pump gear.


what shaft?? the alignment pin?

tigman
11-20-2008, 11:03 PM
The shaft that bolts to the pump gear.

unscrew it from the timing gear and push it back gentely into the pump don't force it because you will bend a seal but it's the way to do it .
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/diesel/pi025.jpg


the easyest way to remove the IP is to remove the 3 nut (timing gear)true the oil fillup hole the blue part is a piece of pape bend in 2;) and after you remove the 3 back nut and you pull slowly
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/diesel/10-04-07_2155.jpg


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i29/tigman_photos/diesel/10-04-07_2159.jpg

nate379
11-21-2008, 02:24 AM
Yeah I put it back in. I just unbolted most of the timing cover and bend it back after I had enough out and pulled it out (engine is junk... guy ran it out of oil and send some rods out the oil pan.)

Fred482`
11-21-2008, 08:21 PM
Remove the oil fill tube grommet to gain some additional access to the three 13mm bolts in the driven gear. It makes putting the bolts back in a bit easier. Use a breaker bar with a 15/16" socket on the alternator pulley nut to rotate the engine. Push down on the belt to keep it from slipping and rotate the engine slowly, allowing the compression to escape as you turn it. The alternator nut's easier to reach than the crank bolt.