blew a piston in my truck. sounds not covered they jus are waitin to tell me. how streetable are these motors gonna be as a daily drive? pulling a trailer? fuel mileage? what sorta injectors? turbos? what other upgrades? i want it all laid out infront of me before i decide to jump into it. thanks :gearjamin

well it sounds like you want to drop about 20 grand into it so maybe a bank heist is in order :D i think the 7.1 stroker kit is a little over 10 or 11 grand IIRC

Where's Trippin?!?!? Socaldiesel will help ya!

well im budgeting for twenty. jus wanna know what other details and ugrades im gonna need to go along with it. i only wanna do it once

wanna build mine while you're at it :D

from what i hear the 7.1 need a ton of air to run well so a big single or twins and a set of dual fuelers and should be a good start. i'm not sure if heads come with the stroker kit or not hopefully guy will chime in soon!

Your budget for twenty might be a bit low.

From what I've figured the 7.1 kit plus all the equipment to support it is going to put you over.

You can start with 12g for the kit, which is just the crank, rods and pistons I believe. Turbos will put you up another 5g for sure. Dual fuelers for 2g for sure. Your going to want modified heads to flow the air required for the bigger displacement so that is
another 2-4. Cam is 1. Lots of other little parts like main studs, head studs, dampener...

Your over twenty for sure. I would say closer to thirty.

You can rebuild a pretty mean stock bore/stroke unit for a decent price. I was set of a 7.1 litre for awhile but I think I've changed my mind. It cuts 10g off the rebuild price for sure.

Your budget for twenty might be a bit low.

From what I've figured the 7.1 kit plus all the equipment to support it is going to put you over.

You can start with 12g for the kit, which is just the crank, rods and pistons I believe. Turbos will put you up another 5g for sure. Dual fuelers for 2g for sure. Your going to want modified heads to flow the air required for the bigger displacement so that is
another 2-4. Cam is 1. Lots of other little parts like main studs, head studs, dampener...

Your over twenty for sure. I would say closer to thirty.

You can rebuild a pretty mean stock bore/stroke unit for a decent price. I was set of a 7.1 litre for awhile but I think I've changed my mind. It cuts 10g off the rebuild price for sure.

shit i thought the kit came with things like heads, studs, cam... like u said maybe a build with stock bore and stroke would be better... i was gettin a turbo either way

You can start with 12g for the kit, which is just the crank, rods and pistons I believe

Man, if that's true, that is outrageous. That seems unbelievably high for only those components. No offense towards SoCal, as they make some AWESOME stuff, and seem to be first rate guys, but that seems over the top. Might explain why so few people are running them, though, as opposed to a bore/stroke stocker.

Just my opinion, but for over 30 grand turn-key, I'd be givin' Sonny Leonard Racing a call for one of these babies for my mud truck.:D (see link)
http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/sar632.html

1700 hp:eek: right out of the box from a 632 ci? Sounds good to me.

so jus pistons and bottom end? :rippedhan

Man, if that's true, that is outrageous. That seems unbelievably high for only those components. No HEADS?!!! No offense towards SoCal, as they make some AWESOME stuff, and seem to be first rate guys, but that seems over the top. Might explain why so few people are running them, also, as opposed to a bore/stroke stocker.

Just my opinion, but for over 30 grand turn-key, I'd be givin' Sonny Leonard Racing a call for one of these babies for my mud truck.:D (see link)
http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/sar632.html

1700 hp:eek: right out of the box from a 632 ci? Sounds good to me.

lol checked out that link, those motors are sick!

lol checked out that link, those motors are sick!

I know. They've got a 932 ci that makes 2200 hp that has a SOLID BILLET BLOCK!!!

20K will get you:

SoCal 7.1L Stroker Kit with crank, gear and keys, forged pistons, pins, clips, rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust bearings, rods, damper, billet flywheel and rear seal

Stage 2 heads
Titanium retainer upgrade
SoCal custom camshaft
Carillo rod upgrade
Carr rod bolt upgrade
Billett main cap set
Main bearing set upgrade
Main Studs
Head Studs

Freight

You still need a good builder/machine work, injectors, dual fuelers, turbo (s), seals, etc. Most folks doing the build have some of these things anyway. 30K is a solid budget for a stroker build and it can go as high as 40 depending on what you do.

Ask me how I know.... ;)

20K will get you:

SoCal 7.1L Stroker Kit with crank, gear and keys, forged pistons, pins, clips, rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust bearings, rods, damper, billet flywheel and rear seal

Stage 2 heads
Titanium retainer upgrade
SoCal custom camshaft
Carillo rod upgrade
Carr rod bolt upgrade
Billett main cap set
Main bearing set upgrade
Main Studs
Head Studs

Freight

You still need a good builder/machine work, injectors, dual fuelers, turbo (s), seals, etc. Most folks doing the build have some of these things anyway. 30K is a solid budget for a stroker build and it can go as high as 40 depending on what you do.

Ask me how I know.... ;)

lol ok now this is gettin outa hand, a built 6.6 is startin to sound good enough...

Moved to Other Performance section!

a 7.1L kit isnt for everyone you have to pay to play. i know with a GT42 they spun the tires on the dyno at 900hp. i just see it as having something different. who wants the same old thing everyone else has.

Well, 30 to 40 is close including the GT42 upgrade. The little things like billet injector hold downs, billet main caps(which have to be line bored=$900:eek:) overboring atleast 20 over, plus finding a damn connector big enough to fit the 5" turbo inlet:mad:, tuning, trans upgrade(before or after you will need it) the gaskets alone were close to $1000.00.(I have all the part numbers for the different thicknesses of head gaskets) and of course powder coating and paint:D. In the long run it is very expensive but if you can afford it why not? Its just too much fun to waste a trans am or camaro with their little ls motors or even a 500hp mustang. I love the look of disbelief:eek: I hope to build my own someday but doing this for my customers is a blast.

The 7.1 is cool, and different but it is major money. You can do a nice build for 8-10k that will handle 800 RWHP and last for sometime.

a 7.1L kit isnt for everyone you have to pay to play. i know with a GT42 they spun the tires on the dyno at 900hp. i just see it as having something different. who wants the same old thing everyone else has.

lol very true, but there is a $ limit

The 7.1 is cool, and different but it is major money. You can do a nice build for 8-10k that will handle 800 RWHP and last for sometime.

ya thats more along the lines im thinking

The 7.1 (428 cu in)displacement can be done for more or less depending on how you want to do it. We've done a few 441 cu in motor as well for customers. Is it worth the cost who knows. The truth is that none of them have been running long enough to know what they will or will not do and for how long they will last. We've had several stock displacement motors make well over 1000 Hp for a lot less money, so it all depends on what your after.

The price for stuff like that is high, but its not a mainstream item and there is obviously a lot of time and effort put into building those parts. Not to mention that the prices of materials has skyrocketed in the last 5 years.

So yea, price is high, but I don't think its totally unjustified.

I've pretty well got my build planned out. Just the process of buying all the parts. Don't want to go into debt so it may take me a year or so haha. After pricing it out, a pretty powerful and reliable 6.6 can be built for 15g.

i would say one could be built for 10g and still be reliable

Probably. I'm looking at 800+rwhp though.

i would say one could be built for 10g and still be reliable

all said and done? turbo included?

maybe not turbo.

We started out to build a billet crankshaft that would be stronger than stock. The cost to build the crank was the same whether we built it with a stock stroke or with a little something added. :D So why not?

The next step was to engineer a complete kit, so someone with engine building experience could get their block bored and honed, align hone their mains and then install the kit in the bottom end themselves. All it takes is a little standard engine building machine work. There is no surgery on the block required.

Billet crank, billet rods, forged pistons, rings, pins, clips, bearings, crank gear installed, rear seal, billet flywheel, SoCal damper, entire assembly digitally balanced and ready for installation. We even supply plastigauge for those without a set of micrometers. :D

We also offer these as completely assembled engines. Give me a ring if you would like a quote for your particular application.

We started out to build a billet crankshaft that would be stronger than stock. The cost to build the crank was the same whether we built it with a stock stroke or with a little something added. :D So why not?

The next step was to engineer a complete kit, so someone with engine building experience could get their block bored and honed, align hone their mains and then install the kit in the bottom end themselves. All it takes is a little standard engine building machine work. There is no surgery on the block required.

Billet crank, billet rods, forged pistons, rings, pins, clips, bearings, crank gear installed, rear seal, billet flywheel, SoCal damper, entire assembly digitally balanced and ready for installation. We even supply plastigauge for those without a set of micrometers. :D

We also offer these as completely assembled engines. Give me a ring if you would like a quote for your particular application.

Well durn tootin. Now I know why them big pieces o' chewrin gum in that thar kit tasted so funny.... ;)

all said and done? turbo included?

Yes with a one year membership in the local whore house for free.:D

HAHAHA

Nobody mentioned that he's going to need an extra special transmission for Mike L yet.

is it worth the extra money? either way my motor has to come apart...

If You Have 20 To Put In The Motor Go Ahead And Spend 30, Just Think 7.1

If You Have 20 To Put In The Motor Go Ahead And Spend 30, Just Think 7.1

Why go 7.1 when you can go bigger?:p:

lol my gf hates all of yous! im sure i can get what i want outa a 6.6, but a would be nice to have a 7.1 jus for the sake of it

lol my gf hates all of yous! im sure i can get what i want outa a 6.6, but a would be nice to have a 7.1 jus for the sake of it

Just tell her that this is our version of cosmetics:D They don't complain about spending $60 to $100 on a $7 haircut:D

lol im thinking ill jus gonna tell her they're gonna warrety it. hope she dont notice all the extra OT ill be puttin in at work. shes tryin to tell me it can sit and i can drive my zr2 s-10.

just do what im gonna do and NOT tell her :)

just do what im gonna do and NOT tell her :)

lol i'd like to think she'd notice when im broke up happy

Here's the one thing that's made me not interested in a 7.xxx build- i run a 2.8 class. i haven't seen a 2.8 charger that will move enough air yet to satisfy the needs of my 6.6 engine... so why would i want to increase the displacement causing more of a turbo shortage? our pulling organization is also limited to stock displacement.

the only answer was if i pulled in the mod class or just never cared about sled pulling. so to the OP, have you checked any potential rules you may have to see if its even allowed or beneficial?

Here's the one thing that's made me not interested in a 7.xxx build- i run a 2.8 class. i haven't seen a 2.8 charger that will move enough air yet to satisfy the needs of my 6.6 engine... so why would i want to increase the displacement causing more of a turbo shortage? our pulling organization is also limited to stock displacement.

the only answer was if i pulled in the mod class or just never cared about sled pulling. so to the OP, have you checked any potential rules you may have to see if its even allowed or beneficial?

to be honest with you, trucks never seen any sorta track. jus love power :D. but not sayin it never will. out my way theres only one sled pull a year. jus like the thought of 7.1 :eek:. but u make a very good turbo point

If You Have 20 To Put In The Motor Go Ahead And Spend 30, Just Think 7.1
I have to agree with this statement..Why? I started out with $7500 plus labor, already had twins, tuning,tranny, etc. As I sit typing I could tally up the $$ I spent and it is VERY close to $30k, but I did have some issues. Regardless, it's a lot of money and if I knew I was gonna spend this much money I would have gotten the 7.1 to begin with. No doubt, just for the sake of having it. But you also have to factor in what DieselPower said and the fact that there is not many of these out there/tested. I support SoCal fully and their craftsmanship, but I couldn't afford to do it all over again.
My shortblock(read BUDGET build) with shipping cost me $12,200
which included:
DPR High Volume oil pump
Howard's Extreme Duty rods
ARP head studs
new water pump
headgaskets
fully balanced and blueprinted
cut pistons to 16:1 and new rings
I supplied no cores of any type, used new block, new pistons, new cam and crank.
tear down of broke engine $500
new batteries and starter $400
oil cooler $300?
new stocker turbo 125
shipping of flywheel/balancer to builder $50
towing $1500
misc. gaskets/sealant for top of engine build and oil dipstick/tube $300
head job(just cleaning and valve seat check) $250
heat cleaning of valve covers $100
fluids/filters $300 give or take
misc. tools/incidentals????
injector o-rings/washers $100
oil psi gauge $200(dead engine was due to loss of oil psi.)
new belt $40
new thermostats $120
blasting/cleaning of exhaust manifolds/heat shields $50
And I did all the labor after shortblock to installing and cranking.
I had some problems with the head shop guy that wound up costing me an extra $6800 but that included $1280 of donated parts/money.

I know I'm forgetting some things but that right there is about $24k. And I only budgeted $10k, plus that's not counting the 16 months or so of $875 payments..................This shit is expensive, it's like crack too.

I have to agree with this statement..Why? I started out with $7500 plus labor, already had twins, tuning,tranny, etc. As I sit typing I could tally up the $$ I spent and it is VERY close to $30k, but I did have some issues. Regardless, it's a lot of money and if I knew I was gonna spend this much money I would have gotten the 7.1 to begin with. No doubt, just for the sake of having it. But you also have to factor in what DieselPower said and the fact that there is not many of these out there/tested. I support SoCal fully and their craftsmanship, but I couldn't afford to do it all over again.
My shortblock(read BUDGET build) with shipping cost me $12,200
which included:
DPR High Volume oil pump
Howard's Extreme Duty rods
ARP head studs
new water pump
headgaskets
fully balanced and blueprinted
cut pistons to 16:1 and new rings
I supplied no cores of any type, used new block, new pistons, new cam and crank.
tear down of broke engine $500
new batteries and starter $400
oil cooler $300?
new stocker turbo 125
shipping of flywheel/balancer to builder $50
towing $1500
misc. gaskets/sealant for top of engine build and oil dipstick/tube $300
head job(just cleaning and valve seat check) $250
heat cleaning of valve covers $100
fluids/filters $300 give or take
misc. tools/incidentals????
injector o-rings/washers $100
oil psi gauge $200(dead engine was due to loss of oil psi.)
new belt $40
new thermostats $120
blasting/cleaning of exhaust manifolds/heat shields $50
And I did all the labor after shortblock to installing and cranking.
I had some problems with the head shop guy that wound up costing me an extra $6800 but that included $1280 of donated parts/money.

I know I'm forgetting some things but that right there is about $24k. And I only budgeted $10k, plus that's not counting the 16 months or so of $875 payments..................This shit is expensive, it's like crack too.

any regets?

any regets?
YES.
1. Not taking it to Tony Burkhard's in the first place.
2. Not doing more with the build ie: main studs, heads, possibly block girdle, cam and even the 7.1 kit.
3. Mostly not getting the 7.1 kit, but I don't believe it was ready then???(Sept.07)

on edit: don't get me wrong I'm happy with my build, I just tend to wonder how quick I'd be with a 7.1L kit and how many people would I see in my normal day to day driving that has even heard of a 7.1L??? NONE. The original builder(NOT Tony)did not give me exactly what I asked for, I wound up with different brand rods, and cut pistons without the pretty "SoCal Diesel" in em...lol

personally i would feel safer without a 7.xx kit. Not saying anything negative but its new, and with anything new there is a higher chance of failure such as breaking the crank, etc. If i were to do my build over again and not have any class rules prohibiting it I would still stick with the 6.6. all i'm saying is that maybe you shouldn't regret it :) I don't. I know these motors are hard on parts and i think the strokers are going to be even harder on them.

just my 2 cents worth!

personally i would feel safer without a 7.xx kit. Not saying anything negative but its new, and with anything new there is a higher chance of failure such as breaking the crank, etc. If i were to do my build over again and not have any class rules prohibiting it I would still stick with the 6.6. all i'm saying is that maybe you shouldn't regret it :) I don't. I know these motors are hard on parts and i think the strokers are going to be even harder on them.

just my 2 cents worth!
very good point.

Holy Cow I think my Duramax is done Performace wise. No way in hell I would spend 20-30-40,000 on a build up.

I am starting to try talk the wife into trading in the Scion so I can have another STi everything to make it go fast is 1/2 the price of the Duramax and no matter how fast the Duramax is in a straight line it doesn't handle and stop worth a $hit.

not to be rude, but what did you do to your motor with the banks six gun? or the stack. Like i said not trying to be an a$$, just wanted to know. lol and if you only do a 10k build can i have the other 10k?

I would imagine that the stroker kit from socal is properly engineered as his stuff is known to be great products.

Holy Cow I think my Duramax is done Performace wise. No way in hell I would spend 20-30-40,000 on a build up.

I am starting to try talk the wife into trading in the Scion so I can have another STi everything to make it go fast is 1/2 the price of the Duramax and no matter how fast the Duramax is in a straight line it doesn't handle and stop worth a $hit.

unless you lower a regular cab and put big brakes on it.

personally i would feel safer without a 7.xx kit. Not saying anything negative but its new, and with anything new there is a higher chance of failure such as breaking the crank, etc. If i were to do my build over again and not have any class rules prohibiting it I would still stick with the 6.6. all i'm saying is that maybe you shouldn't regret it :) I don't. I know these motors are hard on parts and i think the strokers are going to be even harder on them.

just my 2 cents worth!

A few of the California guys have broken crankshafts, I think you even know at least two of them.

What is your solution?

A few of the California guys have broken crankshafts, I think you even know at least two of them.

What is your solution?
broken crankshaft with the 6.6 or 7.1?

broken crankshaft with the 6.6 or 7.1? So far, they have all been LB7 guys running stock cranks.

personally i would feel safer without a 7.xx kit. Not saying anything negative but its new, and with anything new there is a higher chance of failure such as breaking the crank, etc. If i were to do my build over again and not have any class rules prohibiting it I would still stick with the 6.6. all i'm saying is that maybe you shouldn't regret it :) I don't. I know these motors are hard on parts and i think the strokers are going to be even harder on them.

just my 2 cents worth!

You certainly have had you share of failures with "new parts". I can understand your opinion.

However, in this case I feel your fears are misplaced.

The evolution of the stroker kit came about because of broken "stock" cranks. I started to build a much stronger "billet stock" stroke crank. I then realized that the cost of the crank would be the same as one with additional stroke. So adding stroke was a logical step. These billet cranks are much stronger both in material and design than the stock twisted forgings.

Working with companies that build Top fuel and Pro Modified cranks insures that we have the best possible product. Unfortunately there is a price associated with these products as well. I could have used some Chinese billets or forgings, or just offset ground a stock crank, but why cut corners?

At the same time I was researching cranks I was working with Mahle on the development of their forged piston, having a piston built for the stroker motor was a natural progression.

I designed the kit around the same rods for either stock or stroker for maximum flexibilty. Using the stock rods, we haven't affected the rod to stroke ratio enough to worry about at this time.

Fear of the unkown is natural. The boogy man, the monsters that live in your closet and under your bed were all things that you were afraid of, as you grew up and matured you came to understand how ridiculous those fears were. :D

Guy

at what hp level or rpm are these stock cranks breaking? something like the average joe like me to be concerned about?

I have a broken LB7 crank sitting right in front of me here in the garage . Came out of the block in my truck now . It broke right behind #2 rod journal . I would have liked to put the 7.1 kit in my truck . It was about $$ . Looked at the crank at Sema . I tried not to drool on it . :drool:

I believe in good hard parts . It's always a good idea to step up to a better crank . Even if same stroke . As far as $'s went , I did a balanced stock crank in my build LLY . Lip cut pistons and LBZ rods .

I would do the stroker crank in a second . It is only $$ that kept me from it .

Thanks Guy , the pistons held up to my antics in the Dunes all last week. I flogged the hell out of it . Everyday I Blasted Olds Hill , Sand Drags , and towed out every buried rig I could find . Motor runs good .

Thank You

There are broken stock crankshafts and broken billet stroker crankshafts both. If you look at the amount of broken stock crankshafts it's very small amount versus the amount of them that are out there. Look everything is going to fail at one point or another but if it 1 out of 25,000 that fail or 3 out of 25 which would you want to take a chance on.

broken crankshaft with the 6.6 or 7.1?


It seems that the LLY crank might be a better option than in its LB7 counterpart if you using a stock crank in a big HP build.

So far most of the broken cranks have been LB7.

It seems that the LLY crank might be a better option than in its LB7 counterpart if you using a stock crank in a big HP build.

So far most of the broken cranks have been LB7.well that sucks, I have a LB7 crank.....:( lol


I wonder though........if one wanted a billet stock stroke crank and not the entire 7.1L kit, would it be finacially feasible to offer a crank of the such? Or would the cost be that close to the entire kit? And would there be enough market for one?

Guy?.........

There are broken stock crankshafts and broken billet stroker crankshafts both. If you look at the amount of broken stock crankshafts it's very small amount versus the amount of them that are out there. Look everything is going to fail at one point or another but if it 1 out of 25,000 that fail or 3 out of 25 which would you want to take a chance on.

There are about 8 trucks you've tuned locally I've seen at the track. Two have broken crankshafts, and not near 1000hp. That's not 1 out of 25,000.

well that sucks, I have a LB7 crank.....:( lol





There are plenty of LB7 cranks out there that are holding up to big power. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if I were you.:)

We are putting a SoCal stroker crank in Casper for Bonneville next year. Pat says that all things being equal, more cubic inches will make more power, and we want the strongest crankshaft we can buy for the truck.

Guy... Have there been any broken stroker cranks yet?

The stock cranks are very strong, but they have broke. There are other options with more cubes than the 7.1 kit running as we speak.

which 2 have broken cranks that he's tuned? i'm curious because i don't know of any.. Doug's truck was tuned by Brandon. maybe more people are breaking cranks than i know about. i wouldn't doubt it. most failures don't seem to make it on the forums. There are about 8 trucks you've tuned locally I've seen at the track. Two have broken crankshafts, and not near 1000hp. That's not 1 out of 25,000. broken stock cranks? the only one i know who did that was Doug. i think i read of another guy on here from socal that broke a stock crank but i don't know him. IIRC he tore the main webs out of it too. personally i've had no problems with cranks therefore my solution is to keep doing whatever i've been doing because it seems to work for me :) after all i ran the "horid lbz pistons" in my race motor and never hurt one of them. A few of the California guys have broken crankshafts, I think you even know at least two of them. What is your solution? as for the fear of the unknown- i am sometimes guilty of that. 50% of my problems this season were due to the allison on the drag strip, the other 50% were due to my headers. i guess after a while being able to finish prevails over breaking crap... don't anyone take me the wrong way in that i'm saying building a stroker is a sure way of breaking a crank because i'm not.

Since you asked, I read elsewhere about several stroker motors with broken cranks but i can't remember where and i didn't bookmark it since it didn't apply to me. if i can find it again i'll post it up.






There is a pulling truck (2.8 class) in my area that has chucked at least one 7.1 stroker crank.

There are plenty of LB7 cranks out there that are holding up to big power. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if I were you.:)

Why don't you tell us about how well your truck runs. Seems you are the laughing stock around your part of the country. I keep getting these phone calls from your friends. boogey man can't fix it?

There is a pulling truck (2.8 class) in my area that has chucked at least one 7.1 stroker crank.


Hummmm... Your not referring to our truck are you????? If so.

We did break a stock LB7 crank this year. Not going to deny the fact of why it failed either. I could count a matter of a hand full of motors that had the same issues later to find out these motors all had one big thing in common. Bad injectors which in return created mass amounts of cylinder pressure.

Sum of you guys need to realize why these cranks break weather stock or billet. Tunning and cylinder pressures are the huge culprits in these failures.

We in return dropped a new crank in billet main caps new injectors balanced and flowed to what they where suppose to be the first time by previous vendor, and resolved all issues. No tunning changes where made went to the track and Numerous pulls on the dyno and down the track and motor has never felt so smooth.

Hummmm... Your not referring to our truck are you????? If so.

We did break a stock LB7 crank this year. Not going to deny the fact of why it failed either. I could count a matter of a hand full of motors that had the same issues later to find out these motors all had one big thing in common. Bad injectors which in return created mass amounts of cylinder pressure.

Sum of you guys need to realize why these cranks break weather stock or billet. Tunning and cylinder pressures are the huge culprits in these failures.

We in return dropped a new crank in billet main caps new injectors balanced and flowed to what they where suppose to be the first time by previous vendor, and resolved all issues. No tunning changes where made went to the track and Numerous pulls on the dyno and down the track and motor has never felt so smooth.


How much horsepower are you pushing with the stroker crank?

How much horsepower are you pushing with the stroker crank?

No stroker crank in our motor bone stock. For info on how much power it takes to break a crank. We broke on the dyno on the way up at 650 hp and 13xx trq Balance rates on the injectors where no where near good.

Do I think Guys stroker kit is going to fail? No I talked to Guy about getting a billet stock replacement but like he stated earlier the cost of a billet crank one would be silly not to put a stroke to it. Would I or will I be putting stroker kit in my next motor for our pulling truck... more then likely.

You have to understand why a part fails before you make judgments on a product or situations.

No stroker crank in our motor bone stock. For info on how much power it takes to break a crank. We broke on the dyno on the way up at 650 hp and 13xx trq Balance rates on the injectors where no where near good.

Do I think Guys stroker kit is going to fail? No I talked to Guy about getting a billet stock replacement but like he stated earlier the cost of a billet crank one would be silly not to put a stroke to it. Would I or will I be putting stroker kit in my next motor for our pulling truck... more then likely.

You have to understand why a part fails before you make judgments on a product or situations.
Chad I don't understand what happened. Na just playing with you.;)

Here's the one thing that's made me not interested in a 7.xxx build- i run a 2.8 class. i haven't seen a 2.8 charger that will move enough air yet to satisfy the needs of my 6.6 engine... so why would i want to increase the displacement causing more of a turbo shortage? our pulling organization is also limited to stock displacement.

the only answer was if i pulled in the mod class or just never cared about sled pulling. so to the OP, have you checked any potential rules you may have to see if its even allowed or beneficial?

Theres no replacement for displacement. getting air in is as important as getting air out. So your telling me the abilty to flow more air is a bad thing? do you think your truck would make less hp with a stroker and same turbo? ill put money on tht one tht it makes more hp / tq. If i could of spent a little more time on mine i would of went with a stroker hands down.

i think 2.8 trucks already have more motor than they have air. increase the displacement, we increase the amount of air required. that makes it more turbo-deficient. i was only talking about 2.8 classes. big single or twins and i'm sure it will do better.

Theres no replacement for displacement. getting air in is as important as getting air out. So your telling me the abilty to flow more air is a bad thing? do you think your truck would make less hp with a stroker and same turbo? ill put money on tht one tht it makes more hp / tq. If i could of spent a little more time on mine i would of went with a stroker hands down.

i think 2.8 trucks already have more motor than they have air. increase the displacement, we increase the amount of air required. that makes it more turbo-deficient. i was only talking about 2.8 classes. big single or twins and i'm sure it will do better.

So are you saying it will make less hp or no more hp in the 2.8 class ?

I'm not saying it will make more or less. there is more to sled pulling than raw HP and I think in a situation where a truck already has more motor than a turbo can support (2.8 class) it won't be helpful. that's all.

maybe it will make more power on a dyno, maybe it won't. i don't know.


So are you saying it will make less hp or no more hp in the 2.8 class ?

Seems the more displacement you have, the more options you have for making power. Cubic inches certainly adds power down low which is good for pulling. Even a stock charger is plenty of air for 2000 rpm.

You should be able to get a turbo that will flow enough air with a 2.8" inducer to feed a 7 liter engine. Heck, that's the size inducer a 12 liter engine runs. I'd suggest an S400 with a 71mm inducer and 100mm wheel, or a customized GT4508.

If you want to run with the big dogs, you need to learn to piss on the tall trees.

I have a broken crank sitting in front of me . Came out of the block in my truck now .

It broke right at #2 rod journal . I would have done the stroker if I had a bit more $$ to put into the motor .

Hummmm... Your not referring to our truck are you????? If so.




No Chad, I wasn't talking about your truck. I know you guy's had a lot of other issues causing your problems early on. You definitely got it figured out at the end of the season though.:)

Why don't you tell us about how well your truck runs. Seems you are the laughing stock around your part of the country. I keep getting these phone calls from your friends. boogey man can't fix it?



My truck ran well for the first part of last season. I knew however I was on borrowed time with stock internals, so I took a chance and made some drastic changes right in the middle of pulling season.

I have had my share of issues, (just like a lot of builds do at first) but I am confident we will get them worked out.

And as far as being laughed at, oh well. People love other peoples misfortune, especially in motorsports.
Why do you think people cheer when someone blows up?? The bigger the boom, the louder the cheers.....Oh and they love flames to.:D

you guys like to say there is not replacement for displacement, but notice how our short stroke motor likes to rev high 4000+rpm to help spool extremely large turbos. Displacement will cause more air flow but rpms will also. I think this is our advantage over the cummins with the greater low end and long stroke so why fix it if it aint broke??

personally i would feel safer without a 7.xx kit. Not saying anything negative but its new, and with anything new there is a higher chance of failure such as breaking the crank, etc. If i were to do my build over again and not have any class rules prohibiting it I would still stick with the 6.6. all i'm saying is that maybe you shouldn't regret it :) I don't. I know these motors are hard on parts and i think the strokers are going to be even harder on them.

just my 2 cents worth!

Guess you've never ran anything experimental on your truck before? :rolleyes:

The limits are pretty simple here. In a class that limits the turbocharger to 2.8" and less a stroker motor buys you nothing. The comment about what happens at low engine speed is really pretty dumb here since the engines do not see low engine speeds at all when racing! Race Duramax engines run between 2800 RPM and 4500 RPM, that's not low speed. So now your down to supplying the motor with the necessary air to support the engine power output. To date there is not a 2.8" turbocharger, custom or otherwise that will supply more than enough air for a properly built 6.6L duramax. So all your going to do is starve a larger displacement motor. Go to a unlimited class or one that does not restrict the turbo size it should make more power.

Now you want to talk about broken crankshafts there have been both the billet 7.1L crankshafts break as well as stock ones break. So which is stronger is the question. Since there are over a million stock Duramax eninges running around and very few billet stroker crankshafts out there running things are not looking too good on the billet stroker being stronger than a stock crankshaft. For the amount of built 6.6L motors just here on TDP there are very few broken stock crankshafts. There are less than 15 billet stroker motors up and running and there has already been more than one crankshaft failure.

This is just the reason that trying to talk someone into a stroker motor doesn't make much sense for most people. If you've got to have one that's fine as long as you can supply the necessary air and fuel to feed it.

The limits are pretty simple here. In a class that limits the turbocharger to 2.8" and less a stroker motor buys you nothing. The comment about what happens at low engine speed is really pretty dumb here since the engines do not see low engine speeds at all when racing! Race Duramax engines run between 2800 RPM and 4500 RPM, that's not low speed. So now your down to supplying the motor with the necessary air to support the engine power output. To date there is not a 2.8" turbocharger, custom or otherwise that will supply more than enough air for a properly built 6.6L duramax. So all your going to do is starve a larger displacement motor. Go to a unlimited class or one that does not restrict the turbo size it should make more power.

Now you want to talk about broken crankshafts there have been both the billet 7.1L crankshafts break as well as stock ones break. So which is stronger is the question. Since there are over a million stock Duramax eninges running around and very few billet stroker crankshafts out there running things are not looking too good on the billet stroker being stronger than a stock crankshaft. For the amount of built 6.6L motors just here on TDP there are very few broken stock crankshafts. There are less than 15 billet stroker motors up and running and there has already been more than one crankshaft failure.

This is just the reason that trying to talk someone into a stroker motor doesn't make much sense for most people. If you've got to have one that's fine as long as you can supply the necessary air and fuel to feed it.

Do you know why the 7.1 broke if it did ? was it due to being asemebled wrong ? mabey tuned wrong ? do you know ? I dont see how you can say things dont look good for something if you dont even no the details of why the failure ocured ? and sayin theres a million dmaxes with stock cranks out prob 90% of them are close to stock or under 500 rwhp. so your not comparing apples to apples if strokers are bad why do you sell them ?

The limits are pretty simple here. In a class that limits the turbocharger to 2.8" and less a stroker motor buys you nothing. The comment about what happens at low engine speed is really pretty dumb here since the engines do not see low engine speeds at all when racing! Race Duramax engines run between 2800 RPM and 4500 RPM, that's not low speed. So now your down to supplying the motor with the necessary air to support the engine power output. To date there is not a 2.8" turbocharger, custom or otherwise that will supply more than enough air for a properly built 6.6L duramax. So all your going to do is starve a larger displacement motor. Go to a unlimited class or one that does not restrict the turbo size it should make more power.

Now you want to talk about broken crankshafts there have been both the billet 7.1L crankshafts break as well as stock ones break. So which is stronger is the question. Since there are over a million stock Duramax eninges running around and very few billet stroker crankshafts out there running things are not looking too good on the billet stroker being stronger than a stock crankshaft. For the amount of built 6.6L motors just here on TDP there are very few broken stock crankshafts. There are less than 15 billet stroker motors up and running and there has already been more than one crankshaft failure.

This is just the reason that trying to talk someone into a stroker motor doesn't make much sense for most people. If you've got to have one that's fine as long as you can supply the necessary air and fuel to feed it.

There are 25,000 800+ rwhp Dmaxes? Breakage of crankshafts at stock HP or mild tuning is not unknown. SoCal Diesel stroker cranks aren't put in to run tow tunes.

Can't you ever post in a technical thread without calling someone dumb, stupid, or idiot, or other personal insult? It is getting old.

If a turbocharged diesel engine with an oversized turbocharger has a hard time spooling up, increased displacement will assist it, as it supplies a larger volume of drive gases, and reduces the compressor load, but I'm sure you know that already. 2000 rpm is "hump" we need to get past to spool hard, so it should help.

I might be stupid in your eyes, but perhaps you need glasses?

Id put it in and try to break it . If I did .

Im positive I would have done it laying down some serious power .

It's called " chit happens " I accept breaking motors as part of playing .

Ive broke many cranks in gassers myself in the past and seen many done by others . Putting better cranks in your motors has been the mainstay forever .

Every V-8 small block or big block I have built in my time has either had a steel crank or after market fully detailed . Everybody that builds motors usually puts a better crank in a motor . It's just what you do , unless its a budget build and you still do as much as you can as far as performance is concerned . You would still balance and polish a stock crank . Balance the rods and use better bolts . When it comes to building motors the diesel and gasser are very similar when it come to good hard parts and a trip to the machine shop . There just isnt the selection of parts for dmax engines . The stronger crank just makes sense , more cubes .... even better . That just a bonus .

This is just a stupid argument . And not really one at all at the same time .

There hasnt been a better crank available for the dmax in the past . If there was the achievments in this area would be farther along .

I commend socal for making one for the community .

If in the 2.8 class it made no more power than without who cares . You have a better stronger crank in the motor . Just knowing it is in there is piece of mind . The only way to move forward is to make it , run it , break it , and make it better . Isnt that what is going on here really . Im sure the ones that did break if they did , were from Big HP . Did they break before a stock crank , who knows . Id imagine if they broke , the stocker would have broke sooner . Doesnt matter . A better crank in your motor is always a good idea period .

A crank for my truck . Hell ya , when I round up enough money .

Id do it stock stroke if thats all there was .

Johnny

So where are these 800+ Hp stoker motors? No one has stepped up here to post any dyno information at those numbers. The truth is that under the same conditions a 6.6L motor are running under the billet stroker crankshafts have failed, so have the stock crankshafts. So when I look at how many High Hp stock crankshafts are broken versus how many billet stroker broken crankshaft there are the odds are not in the billet strokers favor at all.

Ralph

I didn't call you dumb I just call your comment dumb, because it is. The larger displacement not only does not help, it hurts. You might want to go learn about drive pressure and it's effects on performance. The stroker motor doesn't help a 6.6L race motor with a limit of a 2.8" turbocharger, I spelled that out pretty clearly. If you do not have that as a limit it should produce more overall power as long as you can supply it the necessary fuel and air.

Having you try to twist what I say each and ever time is sure getting old, maybe it's you who needs glasses to read what I typed.

fire0021

It's not hard to see that when there are less than 15 billet stroker crankshaft motors running in the same conditions that there are hundreds if not thousands of stock crankshaft motors running in, there is something going on. We sell a stroker kit because people have asked for it and I talk many of them out of it and explain why to them, but Like I said before, some people just have to have it and that's fine.

Johnny

There has been more than 1 billet stroker crankshaft broken and with very few of them running that's not good. If it was an assemble issue it would have shown when they were first fired up but that's not the case. So I would have a very hard time saying that they are stronger than a stock crankshaft at this point. I agree with you that “chit happens” when racing but to say they are stronger than a stock crankshaft when the failure rate is higher than a stock one I do not think is a correct statement.

Where are these alleged broken stroker cranks? You would think if someone had one from us that had broken that they would be mad as can be and would have posted here by now. I have heard of some stroker motors breaking stock offset ground cranks.

Instead I'm sure what we will get is somebody's brother's cousin told me that so and so had a stroker that broke.
I was amazed at how many people were accused of having stroker kits when we first released them.

Just more of team TTS marketing, or should I say negative marketing. Same old stuff. :rolleyes:

So where are these 800+ Hp stoker motors? No one has stepped up here to post any dyno information at those numbers. The truth is that under the same conditions a 6.6L motor are running under the billet stroker crankshafts have failed, so have the stock crankshafts. So when I look at how many High Hp stock crankshafts are broken versus how many billet stroker broken crankshaft there are the odds are not in the billet strokers favor at all.

Ralph

I didn't call you dumb I just call your comment dumb, because it is. The larger displacement not only does not help, it hurts. You might want to go learn about drive pressure and it's effects on performance. The stroker motor doesn't help a 6.6L race motor with a limit of a 2.8" turbocharger, I spelled that out pretty clearly. If you do not have that as a limit it should produce more overall power as long as you can supply it the necessary fuel and air.

Having you try to twist what I say each and ever time is sure getting old, maybe it's you who needs glasses to read what I typed.

fire0021

It's not hard to see that when there are less than 15 billet stroker crankshaft motors running in the same conditions that there are hundreds if not thousands of stock crankshaft motors running in, there is something going on. We sell a stroker kit because people have asked for it and I talk many of them out of it and explain why to them, but Like I said before, some people just have to have it and that's fine.

Johnny

There has been more than 1 billet stroker crankshaft broken and with very few of them running that's not good. If it was an assemble issue it would have shown when they were first fired up but that's not the case. So I would have a very hard time saying that they are stronger than a stock crankshaft at this point. I agree with you that “chit happens” when racing but to say they are stronger than a stock crankshaft when the failure rate is higher than a stock one I do not think is a correct statement.

you didint answer my question? do you know what happend if it did ? who when where this all took place. mabey the stroker tht broke was yours and your confuseing it with so cals ? so strokers are bad in your opnion you do not recomend them but to make a buck you will sell on anyways? thts bs saying someone just had to have one. so your saying even thoe it may tarnish your rep you will sell it. I know dam well guy would not sell somethig to someone becuase they wanted if it was a bad idea. becuaase in the end it all comes back to you.

Ralph

I didn't call you dumb I just call your comment dumb, because it is. The larger displacement not only does not help, it hurts. You might want to go learn about drive pressure and it's effects on performance. The stroker motor doesn't help a 6.6L race motor with a limit of a 2.8" turbocharger, I spelled that out pretty clearly. If you do not have that as a limit it should produce more overall power as long as you can supply it the necessary fuel and air.
.

Tell us what you think the displacement limit is of a 2.8" inducer turbocharger. 6.6L? 7.1L? A 12.7L diesel runs a 2.8" last I checked. I'm sure that you are much wiser than anyone working at Detroit Diesel.

Drive pressure is not controlled by the size of the hole that's in the front of the turbocharger, you know that.

Where are these alleged broken stroker cranks? You would think if someone had one from us that had broken that they would be mad as can be and would have posted here by now. I have heard of some stroker motors breaking stock offset ground cranks.

Instead I'm sure what we will get is somebody's brother's cousin told me that so and so had a stroker that broke.

Just more of team TTS marketing, or should I say negative marketing. Same old stuff. :rolleyes:

So are you saying there have NOT been any broken stroker cranks? I asked this earlier and did not get an answer.

First I dont know of any breaking or hear any examples .

Once again if there was , the only way to make them better is to have them break . And with no examples , Im again sure if there was one it was in a high HP situation on failure .

Still waiting for some real examples , not some fairy tales of them breaking .

Maybe Tommy is right and they were TTS cranks breaking . Is that the cranks you are referring to Steve .

You can blow as much hot air and dirty vendor tactics as you want .

I still think the crank is a good item to have in your motor period .

Not even understanding you here knocking it . Whats the Agenda really ?

I still think the crank is a good item to have in your motor period


I agree otherwise the pistons stay put and you never really get any where! :D

I agree otherwise the pistons stay put and you never really get any where! :D


And nothing to bolt the fly wheel to . :D

And nothing to bolt the fly wheel to . :D

You bolt it to the front pulley silly.

whos stroker kit broke??

You bolt it to the front pulley silly.


and you bolt the front pulley to the timing cover. :D

i'll believe one broke if it was a stock-regrind and was used in a TTS R&D session otherwise there is no mention not even a whisper of another one breaking in any of the now 4 duramax sites i frequent

whos stroker kit broke??

Sounds like more dirty vendor tactics to me.

whos stroker kit broke??

If Diesel Tech said a bunch blew up, he should start listing them, whether true or not.

He says lots of stuff blows up that didn't. Only parts protected by TTS stickers are immune it seems. Special adhesive on the stickers I assume.

I'm FOR Guy and his awesome products, in case anyone misunderstood me, lol.

Where's the popcorn smiley damn it?!

whos stroker kit broke??

I was only asking to see if anyone would come forward or admit it. Anything can break, its just when things do nobody says anything about it. It has always been that way around here and always will be. Its too bad because if we worked together from the start we would be futher along. I think too many people are full of themselves and have their own agendas. I am not directing this towards Guy or anyone else, just saying in general. I have several of Guys products in my motor and the workmanship of his products is second to none.

No they were not our stroker kit as we use an offset ground stock crankshaft that gets heat treated and hardened. This lowers the weight in the crankshaft area, lowers the rod weight, keeps the same as stock rod length and slows the surface speed of the rod bearings. What is interesting is the broken billet crankshafts broke in the same area that the stock crank fails in. There are 3 that I have been told about and they did not fail on start up or break in. They were under the same conditions as stock crankshafts in a non stroked Duramax race motor have been used in. So that's 3 out of how many that are up and running. So far I've heard of about 5 others that are running and that’s not very good odds to go and say that it's stronger than stock. The stock crankshafts are forged and are pretty damn strong to start with.


fire0021

Again if you bothered to read what I said I do not recommend a strokers to most people as it will not do any good in most cases but if you’re going to race in an open class where you can supply the necessary air and fuel then it's going to make more power. I think that's the third time in this thread alone I've said that.

Ralph

The limit on a 2.8" turbo all depends on what you’re going to use it for. As in this case it will not supply enough air for a 6.6L race Duramax engine. The size of the compressor opening has a lot to do with the drive pressure. I would suggest you go get a few good turbocharging books and read up. You need to match the turbine section with the compressor section in a turbocharger!

Johnny

There is no adgenda. You stated the billet crankshaft is stronger than the stock forged one. That's where I disagree in this case. Yes, I do agree that when things fail it shows you where to start working on things. The title of this thread is “sell me on a 7.1L stroker” and it’s my position that in most cases it’s not needed.


Trippin

I would hope you replaced the broken crankshafts no charge and got them back to send them back to Crower to try and resolve the issue they have. You know damn good and well who has had them so why the cover up? This is just more of the way you like to keep sweeping things under the carpet and blaming it on something or someone else. No my brothers uncle's sister told me crap, just what's happening out at the races!

still no evidence Steve.....still no evidence...:(:(

No they were not our stroker kit as we use an offset ground stock crankshaft that gets heat treated and hardened. This lowers the weight in the crankshaft area, lowers the rod weight, keeps the same as stock rod length and slows the surface speed of the rod bearings. What is interesting is the broken billet crankshafts broke in the same area that the stock crank fails in. There are 3 that I have been told about and they did not fail on start up or break in. They were under the same conditions as stock crankshafts in a non stroked Duramax race motor have been used in. So that's 3 out of how many that are up and running. So far I've heard of about 5 others that are running and that’s not very good odds to go and say that it's stronger than stock. The stock crankshafts are forged and are pretty damn strong to start with.


fire0021

Again if you bothered to read what I said I do not recommend a strokers to most people as it will not do any good in most cases but if you’re going to race in an open class where you can supply the necessary air and fuel then it's going to make more power. I think that's the third time in this thread alone I've said that.

Ralph

The limit on a 2.8" turbo all depends on what you’re going to use it for. As in this case it will not supply enough air for a 6.6L race Duramax engine. The size of the compressor opening has a lot to do with the drive pressure. I would suggest you go get a few good turbocharging books and read up. You need to match the turbine section with the compressor section in a turbocharger!

Johnny

There is no adgenda. You stated the billet crankshaft is stronger than the stock forged one. That's where I disagree in this case. Yes, I do agree that when things fail it shows you where to start working on things. The title of this thread is “sell me on a 7.1L stroker” and it’s my position that in most cases it’s not needed.


Trippin

I would hope you replaced the broken crankshafts no charge and got them back to send them back to Crower to try and resolve the issue they have. You know damn good and well who has had them so why the cover up? This is just more of the way you like to keep sweeping things under the carpet and blaming it on something or someone else. No my brothers uncle's sister told me crap, just what's happening out at the races!

No vendor is permitted to attack or excessively critique the efforts, ideas, theories, or products of other vendors.

Johnny

There is no adgenda. You stated the billet crankshaft is stronger than the stock forged one. That's where I disagree in this case. Yes, I do agree that when things fail it shows you where to start working on things. The title of this thread is “sell me on a 7.1L stroker” and it’s my position that in most cases it’s not needed.




I can live with that reply . Understand . And agreed I have no proof they are stronger . I sure want one though , since I believe they are .

Then the extra cubes . What a bonus !

I dont live under the 2.8 rules . :D

...

Ralph

The limit on a 2.8" turbo all depends on what you’re going to use it for. As in this case it will not supply enough air for a 6.6L race Duramax engine. The size of the compressor opening has a lot to do with the drive pressure. I would suggest you go get a few good turbocharging books and read up. You need to match the turbine section with the compressor section in a turbocharger!
...

So in other words, you have no idea. That's OK to admit you have very limited experience turbocharging diesels. A man must know his limits. With no numbers whatsoever backing your claims, and no trucks you can point to, the hypothesis that a 2.8 charger can't benefit from displacement has no merit, and certainly can't be backed up by a "you're too dumb to understand, go read a book". You should be able to back up your theory better than that.

I suppose you'd say that if you had a 450cfm carb on a 350sbc that was too small, that it would make even less power on a 454. Perhaps you could convince your new Dodge friends that you've reinvented internal combustion, but somehow I doubt you're convincing anyone here.

I am a minor victim of your hyperbole. You claim on the internet your lift pumps don't fail, ever, yet mine did. And I've read several of your claims about broken trucks that have I seen personally, and proven to be false, and ditto for your claims of your parts never breaking when I've seen it first hand. Still claiming your converters are indestructable when several failed just locally? Right.

Why don't you just turn it around and start being helpful to the Duramax community instead of being an icon for what is the worst in the aftermarket industry. It's not hard, it just requires a glass belly button or a large retractor.

Guy... Have there been any broken stroker cranks yet?

.

So are you saying there have NOT been any broken stroker cranks? I asked this earlier and did not get an answer.



So will this question ever be answered by the man himself?:cool:


It seems the minions want to claim zero failure rate.....

This thread is the exact reason we choose not to be a vendor on this site

No vendor is permitted to attack or excessively critique the efforts, ideas, theories, or products of other vendors.


Maybe we should all vote on whether or not to allow certain vendors......

I have heard of competing diesel sites doing this....

Yes back to the good old days!!! Keep it up guys!:D

Maybe we should all vote on whether or not to allow certain vendors......

I have heard of competing diesel sites doing this....

Might be a good idea, but regardless it would just be nice not to see the bashing yet again. ;)

Might be a good idea, but regardless it would just be nice not to see the bashing yet again. ;)
I like threads like these (without personal attacks) just from the tech information the can be gathered. If we can sit a debate things without attacks that would be great but even myself don't like to be wrong...atleast me wife says that quite often.

So will this question ever be answered by the man himself?:cool:


It seems the minions want to claim zero failure rate.....

No minion. I just don't think BS belongs in a technical thread. Vague claims of failures of competing products without the owner/builders detailing the circumstances is ridiculous, especially by those with proven track records of making up stuff. Like statistics.

I remember when it was claimed by said "expert" that shimming the PRV was proven to be very dangerous on our trucks (yes, I had an LLY before), yet now after at least 500 owners have done it, there has been zero documented issues. But it did stop a lot of LLY owners from modifying their trucks at the time, just based on an internet posting by an "expert" who really never even studied the issue. He even said you could not disassemble the PRV, when guys were already doing it.

Is that how you want your information? Then be my guest. Disinformation to promote sales belongs in the timeshare condo business. It is not useful here.

Ok, coming from someone who has actually buily one with no diesel expirence whatsoever I must commend the quality of the parts SoCal,Suncoast,McRat racing,Exergy engineering, and Rick Dlance have supplied. Everyone has helped me over the phone, never once calling my questions dumb or telling me to leave them alone. As a hot rod builder I have seen many crank failures-MOSTLY DUE TO INSTALLATION-these parts are top notch.
The original question of this thread was sell me on a 7.1 stroker. Just come and drive this one when its tuned-that will be enough of a selling point.
Sorry, I see enough of this bashing crap on a local site by a bunch of kids 17 to 29-I thought this was a site of adults who like to build and share diesel info.

68skylark455

I hope you are very happy with you motor build and that it works well for you. Once you've got it finished up how about posting the dyno or track results. Then one can compare those to what other 6.6L ones are doing and make up there own minds. No one's done that so far that I know of.

68skylark455

I hope you are very happy with you motor build and that it works well for you. Once you've got it finished up how about posting the dyno or track results. Then one can compare those to what other 6.6L ones are doing and make up there own minds. No one's done that so far that I know of.

hmmmm......stuck in this PLACE are we????:D:D:D

Diesel Tech
Somewhere along the line you are going to have to stop bashing. You and Nick D'Amico are the biggest detriment to this site not excluding your little buddy IowaLLY. Seems one can't post without the other.
Chad told me a few months ago that you never post tech except to hurt someone. I believe him. Ask him.
You do not know everything and your shit blows up, but it's secret and never posted.
Why not try another approach and chuck the ego and help?

Amen!!!!!!!!!!

unless you lower a regular cab and put big brakes on it.
I know mine does :D

68skylark455

I hope you are very happy with you motor build and that it works well for you. Once you've got it finished up how about posting the dyno or track results. Then one can compare those to what other 6.6L ones are doing and make up there own minds. No one's done that so far that I know of.
So far I am, but unlike alot of the diesel "builders" I will share all I can-today I drove it around the block-small oil leak and a exhaust leak other then that it is suprisingly quiet and smooth. A year or so , maybe more or less, I called places like TTS, Bully dog and a few other diesel "specialists" and no one would help me. All they wanted was to sell me parts-no info, no help, not even a real estimate of power for the money-"send us your computer and your heads, we'll fix them and send them back" 6-to-8 weeks turnaround maybe. I don't understand the big secret-why can't people share info on diesels like we have for years on gas?
So far Pat at McRat Racing, Guy from SoCal and the guys at exergy have done nothing but help me. In fact guy actually told me to buy efilive from pat instead of him. Larry Jewell has helped me out alot also-for free! This is going to be a big community around the world making these things faster, why don't the people who do know the do's and don'ts open their mouths and help instead of fight? Ric sent me the headers and pipes and somehow the bolts got lost-he shipped them next day on his dollar-we need people like these guys helping us.
sorry rant over.

sorry rant over.

I see no reason to apologize for that.;)

Diesel Tech
Somewhere along the line you are going to have to stop bashing. You and Nick D'Amico are the biggest detriment to this site not excluding your little buddy IowaLLY. Seems one can't post without the other.
Chad told me a few months ago that you never post tech except to hurt someone. I believe him. Ask him.
You do not know everything and your shit blows up, but it's secret and never posted.
Why not try another approach and chuck the ego and help?


x2, well stated mike

Ralph

... sorry I cannot spoon feed you everything I know about turbochargers. ...

I think if you buy a smaller spoon it will look like more, and be more appealing.

Tell us something simple: Highest flow possible by a 2.8" inducer turbo and how much boost it will make at 3500 in a 7.1 L engine. Get it right within 10% and I will buy you a bigger spoon.

It's interesting you quote nitrous trucks as a basis for your vast experience in turbocharging. If you wean yourself off the bottle, you might have to find out about this whole turbocharging thing.

I can't seem to find the page on your website for your turbo catalog. Which of your kits do you recommend for 7.1 L ? Does the bottle come with the kit, or is it extra?

No they were not our stroker kit as we use an offset ground stock crankshaft that gets heat treated and hardened. This lowers the weight in the crankshaft area, lowers the rod weight, keeps the same as stock rod length and slows the surface speed of the rod bearings. What is interesting is the broken billet crankshafts broke in the same area that the stock crank fails in. There are 3 that I have been told about and they did not fail on start up or break in. They were under the same conditions as stock crankshafts in a non stroked Duramax race motor have been used in. So that's 3 out of how many that are up and running. So far I've heard of about 5 others that are running and that’s not very good odds to go and say that it's stronger than stock. The stock crankshafts are forged and are pretty damn strong to start with.


fire0021

Again if you bothered to read what I said I do not recommend a strokers to most people as it will not do any good in most cases but if you’re going to race in an open class where you can supply the necessary air and fuel then it's going to make more power. I think that's the third time in this thread alone I've said that.

Ralph

The limit on a 2.8" turbo all depends on what you’re going to use it for. As in this case it will not supply enough air for a 6.6L race Duramax engine. The size of the compressor opening has a lot to do with the drive pressure. I would suggest you go get a few good turbocharging books and read up. You need to match the turbine section with the compressor section in a turbocharger!

Johnny

There is no adgenda. You stated the billet crankshaft is stronger than the stock forged one. That's where I disagree in this case. Yes, I do agree that when things fail it shows you where to start working on things. The title of this thread is “sell me on a 7.1L stroker” and it’s my position that in most cases it’s not needed.


Trippin

I would hope you replaced the broken crankshafts no charge and got them back to send them back to Crower to try and resolve the issue they have. You know damn good and well who has had them so why the cover up? This is just more of the way you like to keep sweeping things under the carpet and blaming it on something or someone else. No my brothers uncle's sister told me crap, just what's happening out at the races!

So again you dodge the question who what when where why? on the breakage. ethere step up provide the proof. your a big ***** tht double talks twists, words. Edited for content the one thig you havent figured out about lyining is the more you do it the deeper you get and theres no way out. do yourself a favor fess up tell the truth and help people out.

Steve you should play dodge ball . Your good at it .

You cant make claims like that without some kind of examples .

Were waiting ........

That's quite enough. This ones done due to the insults. Keep the insults and personal attacks out of the threads.