My 2005 Sierra Dually is experiencing rotor corrosion problems. The front rotors were replaced earlier this year while trying to find the ABS at low speed problem. When I pulled the tires from the front, I saw after 55000 miles the rotors were basically completely shot. What I saw was that the center of the rotor maybe 3/4" from the outside edge of the rotor, a distinctive and deep rust "gouge" had begun to form, this "gouge" was not consistent yet was showing up in a on/off pattern varying in both depth and thickness. I had to replace the rotors.. anyways, now last weekend, I decided to rotate tires, and have found the same problem on the rear rotors....this at a now 67000 mile odometer reading..is this a problem everyone is experiencing, or just me? I mean the winters here in Chicago, IL area are salty, but this "Professional Grade" stuff is definitely making me think twice about buying another GM product... HELP....

My 2005 Sierra Dually is experiencing rotor corrosion problems. The front rotors were replaced earlier this year while trying to find the ABS at low speed problem. When I pulled the tires from the front, I saw after 55000 miles the rotors were basically completely shot. What I saw was that the center of the rotor maybe 3/4" from the outside edge of the rotor, a distinctive and deep rust "gouge" had begun to form, this "gouge" was not consistent yet was showing up in a on/off pattern varying in both depth and thickness. I had to replace the rotors.. anyways, now last weekend, I decided to rotate tires, and have found the same problem on the rear rotors....this at a now 67000 mile odometer reading..is this a problem everyone is experiencing, or just me? I mean the winters here in Chicago, IL area are salty, but this "Professional Grade" stuff is definitely making me think twice about buying another GM product... HELP....

Brakes require inspection and maintenance, period. Post #7 & #8 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake will tell you how to prevent it (rusting of the swept area of the rotor).

This also happens on Fords, Hondas, Lexus, Toyota, etc.

I wrote this up for a guy with noisy brakes on a dually, but it fits what you've got and how you got there. Read post #4 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276509&highlight=brakes

I believe this is the rotor problem you speak of
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3710.jpg
Pic "borrowed" from Cougar GT-E here in the one thread I linked.

Maintaince is key, I have owned 4 of these trucks since 2000 I live right on the ocean, salt mist everywhere, winter salt etc as well. I take my brakes apart once a year and service them, i have never had a brake issue in regards to rust,abnormal pad wear, noise, hard/soft pedal. follow the above suggestions and it will prevent it from happening again.

I believe this is the rotor problem you speak of
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3710.jpg
Pic "borrowed" from Cougar GT-E here in the one thread I linked.

heymccall:
Not quite that severe, since the majority of the rust is in the "center" of the braking area of the rotor. What I've read, it seems that the caliper is not "floating" and is most likely sticking on the sliding points of the caliper? I will most likely do the same as I've done on the front brakes.... Replace rotors and disc pads on the rear, grease the sliding points, and hope... hope in one hand and s**t in the other.... By the way, should "red" loctite be used for the bolts that secure the caliper to the bracket??? Thanks...

heymccall:
Not quite that severe, since the majority of the rust is in the "center" of the braking area of the rotor. What I've read, it seems that the caliper is not "floating" and is most likely sticking on the sliding points of the caliper? I will most likely do the same as I've done on the front brakes.... Replace rotors and disc pads on the rear, grease the sliding points, and hope... hope in one hand and s**t in the other.... By the way, should "red" loctite be used for the bolts that secure the caliper to the bracket??? Thanks...I strongly suggest that you do NOT use red Threadlocker on any of your brake hardware.
The two caliper ear bracket bolts (either 18mm or 21mm Head) should have a touch of Blue (medium strength) Threadlocker. Use NO threadlocker on the slide bolts.

Since you made it this long on your brakes, I suspect you have more of a "pad frozen in place" problem. When fitting new pads, they should be "loose" enough to wanna fall out before you get the caliper on.

And, THIS ONE'S IMPORTANT..........You only need to remove the bottom T55 headed bolt at each rear caliper.

red locktite is only used when you never every in a 100 million years want to remove the bolt/nut. headstuds and maincap studs is really the only place I've ever or seen ever anyone use red.

The only way to remove a bolt/nut that has red on it is with a oxy/act torch to heat the nut/block to orange/yellow with a hint of white hot and even then good luck.

I strongly suggest that you do NOT use red Threadlocker on any of your brake hardware.
The two caliper ear bracket bolts (either 18mm or 21mm Head) should have a touch of Blue (medium strength) Threadlocker. Use NO threadlocker on the slide bolts.

Since you made it this long on your brakes, I suspect you have more of a "pad frozen in place" problem. When fitting new pads, they should be "loose" enough to wanna fall out before you get the caliper on.

And, THIS ONE'S IMPORTANT..........You only need to remove the bottom T55 headed bolt at each rear caliper.

heymccall:
The reason I ask on the red threadlocker is the front calipers didn't want to come off when I replaced both pads and rotors, that is until as suggested I had to use the oxy torch to help, upon removal I saw something that appeared to be a brown color threadlocker on the threads, but didn't really consider the fact that I used a torch to remove the caliper bolts... anyways the front is now fused with red loctite... can't wait to get this nightmare off next time... With the input you provided now tells me that I have to service the brakes on the truck at least on a yearly? basis... Take wheels off, blow off any loose stuff off with compressed air and then sounds like a greasing of sliding points of the caliper.. Yes/No??? Basically keep it free and moving... Thanks for all your input and suggestions...